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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2005 - 02:02am PT
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La Sportiva :
Dao Rosa- first shoes-2resoles-1pr
Viper-bouldering and smearing-1resole1pr
Cobra-fer every thing-1resole(never again)-5pr
Mythos-for long rock climbs, soo good , my first pair tore because of my bunion, good thing I went back as these things are great , tey did rip under the 2nd resole , not too durable-1resole-2pr
Venom-best shoe ever for moderate to thin sized cracks, bouldering training, very steep, slabs, vertical, and comfortable these are ssoooogood-1pr
Syncros-edging why did you ever stop making them-2.5 resoles(last one killed em)-1pr
Aero-coverage on the toes-1pr
Mojo-crap, good fer like 2 months than they start rolling up on you under the big toe-1pr and never again
Muiras-nice fer sport climbing and power routes-one resole (never again)-2to3(?)pr
Climb high board lasted pink thing, high top -gave em away-1pr
Boreal Ninja-gave em away, piss poor-1pr
FIve ten:
Ascent-brand new like em in the gym need to get out with em , seem super sweet and comfy.-1pr
Coyote-not yet climbed in em fit nicely-1pr
winning the favorite award is Venom (still gotta try the 5.10 shoes) thanks Jedi for helping me reach outside of La Sportiva!!!!
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:31am PT
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The Venom is cheaper and really good!!!!!!
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:40am PT
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I did hear that hammering the hell out of some board lasted shoes worked , i would immagine the microwave would condense the rubber cells????????>>>>>>>........!!!!!!!!
Hey, does being up this late and chatting on supertopos make me a loser????
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 03:45am PT
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RR's - terrible shoe for everything except standing in slings and edging
Chouinards (?) - pre-sticky rubber... post_EB...ok shoe
Fires - nice at the time, fit feels like wearing boats now
Kaukulator - great shoe for the Valley, high top to protect ankles, still have a pair to resole
Dominators, pre-sportclimbing model, I liked these very much, fell apart though
Newton - my favorite outdoor shoe, fit for long long climbs, hold up well, funky though
Mythos - my other favorite outdoor shoe, especially thin cracks, face and slab, these don't hold up so well for me
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:51am PT
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Woodson would be a great spot to go, especially with a new pair of Venoms!!! Ok seriously these shoes are great , but the 5.10 ascent may take the all day shoe if it out performs the mythos.
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 04:22am PT
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What is the Mojave about???
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:38am PT
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Definitely the ole "SYNCROS." I agree why did they stop making a great shoe???
Have tried on the Testarossa, but just like the car, who can afford such an expensive shoe? Seems like a real high end shoe.
The Kaulkalators are great comfy all around shoes. I could literrally wear mine all day climbing.
I have narrow small feet and teh La Sportivas fit far supperior to any others so far.
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Gunkie
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:45am PT
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1986 pair of original LaSportiva Machiers (sp?). I still have the shoes and use them as wall boots now. I think they've had four resoles.
Early morning coffee wearing the shoes on Big Sandy Ledge, Half Dome:
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:48am PT
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First pair of shoes were those God-awful Boreal LaBambas. Man, they were heinous - so stiff, so uncomfortable. They did not edge, smear of do anything well. I gave them away after about two months. I feel sorry for the person who got them.
After that awful experience, I learned then that I have La Sportiva feet...
Viper-bouldering, sport, and smearing- owned many, many pair and wept when they chaged from the asym toe box when bringing out the new generation Cobras.
Cobra-bouldering, sport, and smearing-After a while, my foot reshaped to the asym toe box and now I love these for everything - except multipitch trad- I have owned countless number of these.
Katanas-bouldering, sport, and smearing- love these shoes too - i currently owe three pairs (why? I don't know, just keep collecting all of these shoes). I'm tempted to say they are my favorite pair.
Muiras-bouldering and hard sport - great shoes too - so great someone stole my last pair. bastards. I have one pair of these left I've not worn - saving them for hard day. Plus,I've been too lazy to tie up my shoes. The slippers and velcro are the way of the lazy person (me). Their nickname is the "hotrods."
The only shoes I have that are not La Sportiva are the 5.10 diamonds and sapphires. The Mythos heel was just too big and the shoe farts were unbearable even when trying them on. As much as I hate anything made specifically for women, these shoes are great for all day trad routes. Good for smearing. I do hate the new color gaggy green and instead preferred the black. I own three pair. I know there is a new 'female' mythos but I've not tried it on yet.
An interesting question is why I own 18 pair of climbing shoes?? Does everyone own a ton of these? Some of my shoes I've not even worn yet - just hoarding them or something.
I fear trying on the Venoms (though I lust) and the female Mythos because I know I'll get them too. After reading this, I may have to try them on.....
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:03am PT
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Gunkie, I too still own and use a pair of 1987 vintage La Sportiva Mariacher's, with a 5.10 Stealth rubber re-sole. Great trad shoes.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:04am PT
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La Sportiva Mythos - My first pair of shoes. And I think I'm on my 5th pair by now. Once they're worn in, comfy enough to wear all day. Good enough to climb up through low 5.10. Awesome.
La Sportiva Miuras - My first pair of cambered shoes. For sport or long hard routes, these things are like nothing else I've ever tried. Not so great for jamming routes, tho.
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wildone
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:42am PT
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I had the ascents, and I loved the shoes but the leather in the toe area stretched way out on me. I would have loved it if those shoes laced to the toe!
My current shoes are synchros. Bought them from a guy who only climbed in them once in a gym. Perfect fit, 40 bucks!
Time to get a resole, though. I want to keep them around as long as I can.
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Ben Wah
Social climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 12:02pm PT
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Tuolumne,
I'm surprised one of the resident ST scientists hasn't yet pointed out that a microwave works by causing the water molecules in whatever is placed within to vibrate, thus heating things up. Since shoes contain very little water at all, nuking them will do nothing but possibly ruin your microwave.
If you were to put them in a conventional oven, the glue would be softened long before the rubber, and they would simply de-laminate. The only cure for bad rubber is to take the shoes to Josh for a week, where rubber doesn't matter, wear through it, and resole them with something decent.
Happy climbing
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Feb 25, 2005 - 12:09pm PT
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first pair: Boreal Equinoxes- these are decent beginner shoes, been resoled once and have been relegated to sport climbing and gym use only. they still fit great though- didnt stretch at all.
second pair: 5.10 Huecos- love these shoes- great for all day trad- been resoled once, are due for another, but i'm not sure they'll survive it, not sure if the new Huecos are any good so i'm shopping around a bit.
third pair: Evolv Docons- my funny shaped feet wont allow me to wear any cool power shoes, so these 'gym' shoes are my power shoe. They fit my feet perfectly and perform well for everything except smearing. Use 'em exclusively for trad cragging at my limit.
fourth pair: i'm strongly considering using my REI dividend on a pair of Mythos- tried 'em on the other day and they fit great, which is a rarity with my feet.....
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Tom Bruskotter
Trad climber
Seattle
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Feb 25, 2005 - 12:35pm PT
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La Sportiva fan here. I have several sizes of each depending on how long I plan to be in them.
Mega: Good granite shoe. Protect feet in long cracks. Bigger size for walls - aid/free.
Mythos: I love these for slabs and fun sport. I'm big so avoid foot jams with these. They're famous for stretching.
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
Boald'r Effin See Oh
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:03pm PT
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I like them Kankaroos with the little zip pocket on the side. You could fit a whole routes worth o' chalk in there.
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wildone
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:20pm PT
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I wonder waht kind of shoes BURT BRONSON wears? Do you think he climbs barefoot like other notable hardmen? Does he need special rockshoes due to lack of toes from all those alpine routes? Curious.
I wonder if they even make them in his size. I heard he's 7'11", 647 pounds.
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ct
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:37pm PT
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Good thread. After trying out all the different shoes and finidng my favorites, I always like seeing what shoes work for other people. Writing all this out, it seem hard to believe I've actually owned so many damn shoes. I take heart knowing that I have paid full retail for my shoes on less than 5 occasions. Here are the ones that come to mind...
La Sportiva - My foot is definitely also a 'Sportiva foot,' although not all models fit me well.
Mythos: 1st and 2nd shoes I ever owned. Great multi-trad shoe, 'nuff said.
Kakuklator: Good stiffer hightop shoe, hasn't seen it around in some years now. Got some good use out of this as a beginner, keep them around because of the high top protection. Will get them resoled at some point.
Bamba: Yep, Crimpergirl got this one down, they sucked.
Flash: That stupid white bouldering shoe. I think they might still be making these. They sucked about as much as the Bambas. Perhaps more. These are still sitting, used only about 10 times, in my closet. That's where they will stay.
Vipers: Also a good shoe, although when I had a pair of these I didn't know how to use my feet well enough to take advantage of them. Haven't really gotten into the Cobras so much, tended more towards the Katanas.
Miura: Good shoe, like the last, but prefer the velcro fit of the Katana.
Katana: My absolute fav. Fits like a dream, smears, edges, good camber, great for steep stuff and hard bouldering. Best heel-hooking shoe I've ever had. I've gone through over 10 pairs of these in the last 3 years. My problem with this shoe is that it is expensive, and I average about a pair every three months.
5.10
Moccasym: Used a few pairs of these when I started climbing, but feel there are better slippers on the market now. Good when new, not so good once soft and deformed. They do smear like heck though.
Anasazi Velcro: I've had at least 4 pairs of these as well. Good shoe, but I've always had problems with the velcro wearing out. Would rate this a close second or third behind the Katanas.
Dragons: No longer produced I believe. I miss these shoes. The V10 is supposed to be the same last, but the velcro grip on these were really, really good. Very specific use, performed best on steep stuff and hard bouldering, but these were a great, agressive shoe. Hope they bring 'em back at some point.
Southwest: This shoe just didn't perform for me, even though I really wanted it to. I don't know what the thinking behind it was, but the only place it excels is on purely vertical edging routes. It doesn't smear well, it doesn't do well on steep stuff, useless for bouldering, nor does it do well in cracks. I got a pair when they brought them out, and the rubber wore through in about three weeks. The dime edge platform is a good theory, but doesn't work so well in this shoe.
Boreal
Okay, now I definitely do not have a Boreal foot. I know lots of people who swear by Boreal, but putting my heel in these shoes feels like shaking a stick in a trashcan. I think they make some good shoes, but they've just never worked for me that well.
Diablo: Cheap sport slipper. Useless for me.
Pyros: Similar last as the Diablo, but better fit and better performance. Still keep a resoled pair of these around for over-the-water bouldering or soloing.
Ace: Always wanted these to be my trad shoe, my pair just never worked out that well for me. Have heard many, many good things from other folks.
Mad Rock
Flash: Cheap, generic bouldering shoe. Average. Wore out very quickly.
Mugen: More agressive bouldering shoe, worked well, but wore out even faster than the Flash!
Phoenix: Couldn't put these to use. Felt like climbing with boxes on my feet. The thicker rubber decreased sensitivity, and the fit felt loose. Would recommend anybody to the Mythos instead of these clunkers.
Frenzy lace: Going to try these out this year.
Montrail
Zealot: The rubber on these shoes is pretty darn hard. I like the camber and shape, but would really like to have some c4 on them instead of what's on there.
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 02:06pm PT
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Shoe Onfo
If you are seeking a no longer produced 5.10 shoe check out the 5.10 factory in Redlands CA . They have many no loonger produced shoes racked up and waiting for like the 20 people who know about the killer deal, I believe they are open only on friday.
If you wish to get rid of any shoes sen dem to me as I work in the wilderness program at a therapeutic boarding school and we have like no shoes for the long climbing months, they have tooo many that are my size, they really need like size 8-12 (they have th best selection of size 38muiras and size 38.5 cobras)>. Email me if you are interested.
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 02:39pm PT
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Nice pic Gunkster
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 02:50pm PT
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If you could only have one shoe from now on --
Venom eeeerrrrr mythos eeerrrr Venom -Well I could never make the decision
Venom no Mythos damn it aaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I need them all of them they all serve a vital role in my climbing I know it Ill never leave any of you exept the Mojo and the Aero. Mu haha
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spidey
Trad climber
Sonora
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Feb 25, 2005 - 02:57pm PT
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Dang - and I thought I had a shoe fetish. some of you guys and (crimper)girls have me way beat.
I seem to have a 5.10 foot, although I've had a bunch of pairs of mythos and used to swear by them (they pretty much mold to your feet anyway).
my current favorites are:
5.10 Mocasym (2 pairs, tight for sport/gym, and a tad looser for cracks)
Sportiva Mythos - great all day and all-around shoe. picked up my latest pair for $45 at the north face outlet last year.
5.10 Ascent - also a great all day, all-around shoe. not as precise as the mythos/mocassym, but more comfy and great for long routes.
Sportiva Kaukulators (old blue ones) - great shoe for walls and offwidth, or extended crack climbing. Not so great for face climbing, or thin cracks. they do ok on moderate friction though.
5.10 Anasazi velcro - great gym/sport shoe. mine are too big and I can still climb reasonably hard in them, even after they wore out. now they are trashed and smell awful, and I should throw them out. expensive.
Scarpa Marathon - supposed to be a great all day shoe, but they don't fit me very well. anybody want to buy a pair in size 11?
My first shoes were Boreal Aces, they are a great all around shoe and very durable, but they hurt my feet (wrong shape) so I didn't buy another pair.
Did not like:
Miuras - had a pair for a while, but never liked the way they felt - I defiinitely climbed better in mythos and mocasyms. sold 'em.
5.10 Hueco - boxy, no sensitivity, poor performance. comfy though. sold 'em.
5.10 Spire - ditto but without the lining. gave these to my little brother.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Feb 25, 2005 - 05:39pm PT
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We called the Wild X shoes CB's - for chink boots. Dave Hauser did all sorts of nasties wearing those.
First shoes were the old Blue Royal Robbins - whatever they were called, with lugs on the soles and steel shanks imbedded. When Fire's hit it was a revolution.
Now I mostly wear Mugens (fat, fat foot) or I have a pair of very stretched out Focuses for them dime edge routes.
Wouldn't wear 5-Tennies for any amount of money if only to piss Charles off.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:35pm PT
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I have quite a shoe rack at the moment, and my arsenal consist mostly of happy 5.10 shoes.
5.10 anasazis (womens) fit great for those sporty routes with lots of precision required, though I find they are crap for friction climbing.
5.10 Ascents are my go-to shoe so long as I know I don't have to do anything heel-oriented - great for climbing granite domes, as all that walking afterwards is not a problem, great for bouldering landings . . . probably my favorite shoe.
Evolve Rockstars (womens) are great all-rounders. I usually use these for screwing around in the gym, harder trad multipitch and trad cragging.
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Permanent Tiller
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 25, 2005 - 09:27pm PT
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Asolo Chouinard Canyons
Boreal Fires
La Sportiva Tao's (my favorite shoe)
Currently wearing Five Ten Asscents
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rick
Social climber
california
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Feb 25, 2005 - 09:35pm PT
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anyone out there with fat feet, like 2E? the only shoes I can get to fit comfortably are 5.10 spires and though they are fine, I'd like to try something else out at some point in my life but, not a single climbing shoe company makes shoes in widths...I'll have to quit climbing if they ever take spires off of the market
r
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:17am PT
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My first climbing shoes where Sears construction work boots. They were my favorite. I picked the ones with the best soles. When I went to use them I cleaned the soles real well to make them stickier. Next I bought those blue boots that Royal had Galibier make for him. Then the renaissance started with the EB. They sold them in the Valley mountain shop retail for $13. The mountain shop in those days was in a few drawers in the Lodge gift shop.
Ha ha, what happened after that the world discovered climbing.
Currently using 5-10 exclusively, love those Anasazi Velcro.
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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Feb 26, 2005 - 02:16am PT
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I only use 5.10 shoes: Cause now i be gettin em for free.....oops
Original Zlippers- 3 pr- (the zipper always breaks)
Anasazi Velcro- 4 pr- No better shoe on earth!
Dragons- 1 pr- Meh.. nothing all that great
T-rocks- current pair- These suck ass! sorry but they really hurt.
~TY~
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2005 - 03:32am PT
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Has anyone else tried and climbed in the venom..
Just climbed in my time of dimes in em-ol Darel Hensel slab boulder prob @ Roubidoux
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yes
Trad climber
the inside
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:29pm PT
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I can't believe Mega's have only been mentioned once!
I used them till they abosultely disintegrated....
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jclimb
Trad climber
Durango, Co
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:15pm PT
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i'm a 5.10 fan also - stickiest rubber.
5.10 huecos - first shoe, learned to climb in these at looking glass, nc.
5.10 anasazi velcros - best shoe ever, own 3 pairs in various states of broken-in-ness, from brand new for performance to a pair with 4 resoles for all day comfort.
5.10 anasazi lace-ups - i think these shoes were made for smith rock style technical edging.
5.10 moccasyms - best indian creek (or valley) thin crack shoe ever!
5.10 ascents - perfect for all day, high sierra style routes.
tried sportiva mythos for awhile - good shoe, but wasn't it originally advertised as a sport/gym shoe? i can't edge for crap in those.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:37pm PT
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Mocasyms only!!!!They rock!!!
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AndyG
climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 26, 2005 - 05:01pm PT
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First pair I owned were La Sportivas, I don't remember the model name. They kind of looked like the Focus, except they were turquoise, I held on to those for a long time.
Syncros - loved these, especially after 1st resole with 5.10 rubber. These finally wore out after 4-5 resoles. I wish they still made them.
Focus - bought a pair on sale a couple years ago. But I've had very little chance to wear them since I hurt my shoulder. So verdict is still out. I was hoping they would replace the syncros as all-day trad route shoes. I kind of doubt it tho. They seem too blocky and stiff.
5.10
I've owned at least 4 prs moccasyms. I love these. When new they are for sport and bouldering. Then resole once and shift to the gym.
Anasazi lace ups - Great shoes. Good for anything.
Anasazi velcros - Love these too. Great for sport.
Boreal and Scarpa don't fit me at all. I've never owned any.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 27, 2005 - 02:30pm PT
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Once upon a time I dressed so fine in the Mariachers. My first shoes, I refused to betray them with new ones for the longest time, reasoning that if I could climb it in these klunkers, I'd be a footwork genius eventually.
How times have changed! I don't have 18 pairs, like the Imelda Marcos of St Louis, but I'm a shoe junkie nonetheless.
My first climbing hero wore the LaSportiva Tao, a hideous thing if ever there was one, so of course I had to have a pair. You may recall the stretch-proof black plastic syn-leather-- not the ideal choice for a Southern climber! Little edging fiends, but utterly useless for any sort of friction-based movement. You can perhaps imagine the agony of multi-pitch slab routes on Looking Glass on a hot day--feet swelling in the sweaty black plastic, no hope of smearing, toes cramped up in the box up front. Ugh.
I then discovererd one of my two favorite shoes ever, the Scarpa Brio-- 3/4 top,green, rather narrow to fit my apparently Italian-style feet. Wore out 3 pairs of these, the last several years after they were discontinued. I scored these from one of those posers who works in the gear shop, talks a great game about all the climbing he was going to get around to after he finished stroking his nut-duster in the store. I still use these for guiding, all-day stuff, and routes where I'd rather have socks than precision or control.
Then I attended a shoe demo at Deadman's Summit and put the fabled Mythos, which everyone seemed to love, up against the crimpers in a head-to-head with the slightly darker purple Dominators. No contest! The Dommies had the supple, glove-like fit of the Mythos, but edged circles around them. I was in love. The perfect fit for thin cracks, edging, and smearing. Just about made with Eldo in mind.
Naturally, word of this affair leaked back to Scarpa and the model was terminated. What is it with those people? Why must they labor so long to produce the perfect shoe, only to discontinue it in a year or two? I could give a f*ck about sexy new models! Just gimme something that fits and works and I can replace every couple years.
I bought my last pair of the beloved Dommies direct from BD. The guy on the phone told me to buy all three remaining pairs in my size, and how I wish I'd listened. Imagine the horror when one year I ordered up the new model, and opened up the box to find not the luscious purple send-meisters of yore, but a hideously redesigned grey-and-orange thing with a radical camber, completely different from the old model yet inexplicably bearing the Dominator name. Screw that! Back to the post office with these monstrosities.
Ever since, I've been at sea in a purgatory of mediocre relationships. A brief but happy affair with the Synchro ended with their utter decrepitude and inevitable discontinuation. You can see these shoes in Harrison Shull's coffee table book on Southeastern climbing, T-Wall section-- ragged, ventilated, shredded uppers, yet the soles and rands still cranked. Perfect for hot southern climbing, really. A happy, easygoing arrangement with a pair of Scarpa Minimas followed, but again, the affair was discovered and my little partner was discontinued, leaving me saddened, if not heartbroken, and with much stronger feet.
I heard that the new Focus was to be a more evolved successor to the Synchro, but my pair just seem clunky and imprecise. No love there. In a fit of nostalgia at the local consignment shop, I bought a half-price pair of the new pseudo-Dominators, which climb pretty damn well on steep edges at the local clip-up crags, but ache like little foot-sized (not quite) iron maidens on anything over half a ropelength. These were completely unwearable until I spent a week soaking them in hot water and mincing about the house in them. We have a serviceable relationship, but you wouldn't call it passionate. I'm really only interested in one thing, and that part is great, but I can't see climbing my whole life with them.
After an unhappy spell of ankle-barking on a 200' #5 Camalot crack, I picked up a (discontinued!) bargain pair of Sportiva Megas, which have all the subtle feel of a suit of armor, but seem like a decent addition to the quiver. I have yet to actually wear them outside, but first I think they'll require the same treatment as the pseudo-Dommies.
So here I am in limbo, surrounded with half-satisfying options. I can't find the old Dommies to save my life-- they've been out of production for at least 4 years now. The Foci are okay for long routes and stiff duty, but they're hardly ideal. I can't find those slippers anymore, the Minimas, though I'd be pretty happy in them for everything but wide cracks and precision edging. lots of people make slippers, though-- I'm not worried about that. I just need to put the time in to find the right pair. No, what's missing are the all-rounders. The fit and performance of the Dommies, or even the well-worn comfort and acceptable function of the Brios. I've got lots of options for dating. I'm just not in love.
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Eric Chisholm
Trad climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Feb 28, 2005 - 01:16am PT
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Best Shoes:
Hand-me-downs from my father! A pair of EB's from 1960 somthing. The rubber sucks, their stiff as a 2x4,the heel is to big, toe to tight, but damn you can jam all day!
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 28, 2005 - 06:51am PT
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I tried someone's old EB's once. I've had better traction on ice rinks! Remarkable that people climbed hard face in those things.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Feb 28, 2005 - 06:25pm PT
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Back in the late seventies I started out with a pair of Kinneys Waffle stompers, Then got a pair of shoenards and quickly wore them out, resoling with green dot rubber, not bad, if you didn't know anybetter. As soon as boreal fires came out everyone starter climbing like a grade and a half better and the fit was no longer a masochistic event. I probably went thru at least four pairs of fires (with multiple resoles) and the fire bigwall boot ( still use with 5.10 resole). By the time the late eightes rolled around many good shoe optoins existed but have usally gravitated towards a stiffer shoe( waffle stomper beginnings) resoled with 5.10. I've bought at least 2 pairs of shoes every year for the last 10 years. So I've tried most of them. whats working for me now is a pair of boreal dominator? (blue green with silver stripes) but getting them resoled with 5.10 is a must. I have some new stiff mad rocks but haven't had the oppurtunity to try them yet. The old blue kalkulator was good for moderate routes but at my size( 200 lbs; size 13) climbing in them 3 days a week ,I 'd blow them out in about 6 weeks, stiches, holes in leather, lace eyelets torn out, etc. liked them so much I did it twice.
Although those dru's look like they might be the ticket for winter moderates at the Leap. One constant through all the years, when I felt hungry and was leading at my limit I had 5.10 rubber on my side, maybe not there shoes but definitely there soles.
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DavisGunkie
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 28, 2005 - 06:35pm PT
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lets see. i had the old new style heucos up until last year.. those things were great for all day stuff and i used them for everything.they were nice to walk off in to since they had the eva heel. i was sad when i watched them disentegrte on me while climbing fear of flying at phantom spires..
i then tried the anasazi mesas.. they were nice for the gunks but the were too small for me so i hardly ever wear them.. been meaning to try and bring them to the shoe place to see if he can stretch em out a half size.
anasazi velcro... my main gym shoe for a while and some bouldering. pretty good..i didn't like them as much as
my katanas
loved this things.. had one resole ..wondering if it would hold up to another. use these for gym bouldering sport.. great for edging and smearing but weren't the best for jamming. i need a replacement for these shoes.
for non-sport stuff i have the anasazi velcros. i love these things.. haven't climbed uch in them since i just got them. but they are becoming my new favorite shoe.
i was thinking of pckin gup a pair of venoms to replace my katanas...for those of y'all who tried both, how do their sizes relate?
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Feb 28, 2005 - 07:39pm PT
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all my favorite shoes have been discontinued...
started with a pair of Boreal boots,
eventually, the sportive megas took over (blue and pink) became the rage,
favorites of all time were the UFO (pink and black) and 5.10 Razor (green with slingshot heel rand). I was living and climbing in SLC then, and those shoes loved limestone and quartzite (anything overhanging).
Did a number of years and models of aces (green half heel), but now I like the new model of the mega for crack days, and moccasyms for everything else...
Most uncomfortable shoe was a Sportiva Kendo type model, with a really stiff and thick undersole.. the futuro?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2005 - 02:44pm PT
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The Ascents worked really well once I sanded down the 90 degree edges. one of the most comfy shoes I have work right off the bat, second only to the Mythos.I wonder how much they will stretch however . Now to test the Coyotes
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Jedi
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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5.10 rocks!
Newtons are the best for all day along with the Ascents.
They are discontinuing a few shoes like the =
mesa $75
Climbalot $89
Zuma sandel $39
Mojave $89
Zlipper $49
El Clog (slipper shoe) $29
Santa Fe (velcro shoe) $39
check out www.fiveten.com and click sales items page after you click products.
killer deals.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Did any of y'all ever buy the gold lame' (that's lah-may) Steph Davis Zlippers with matching chalk bag?
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JH
Trad climber
Glendora
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I would live and die by the five ten guide tennies. When I am trad climbing, if I can't climb them in these, I don't want to climb it! The sticky rubber is the best on the market in my opinion and the shoe comfortable. Although it doesn't edge as well as I would like, I am all about the comfort.
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Jedi
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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5.10 rocks!
Newtons are the best for all day along with the Ascents.
They are discontinuing a few shoes like the =
mesa $75
Climbalot $89
Zuma sandel $39
Mojave $89
Zlipper $49
El Clog (slipper shoe) $29
Santa Fe (velcro shoe) $39
check out www.fiveten.com and click sales items page after you click products.
killer deals.
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Skdmarx
Sport climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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This is my first post on this forum, although I have lurked and read it for a long time. This thread got my mind going, thinking of every shoe I have had. Since I worked at a climbing shop for some years I managed to climb in a ton of different shoes. Here is a list of those that I remember having owned...
Boreal Ballet (my first shoe I think)
Boreal Ace
Boreal Laser
Boreal Vectors
LaSportiva Evolutions
5.10 UFO (loved these, still have them)
5.10 Lynx (super comfy with felt tongue!)
5.10 Razor (original green ones)
5.10 Anasazi Velco, a few pair of these
5.10 Anasazi Laceups
5.10 Moccasym (still my current shoe, really happy with it)
5.10 Southwest (have these, but just can't find anything I like them for)
Reebok Velcro (strange, but my favorite shoe, wish I could still get these. Reebok tried the climbing shoe thing for a year and then bailed, but I love the velcro.)
Reebok Laceups
Scarpa slippers (can't remember the name of them, very thin slipper)
Red Chili Tornado (These are cool for bouldering with my kids and easy trad routes, they are more comfortable than my street shoes)
And probably every version of the 5 Tennies ever made!
I stil have many of these shoes in my garage, I loan them to people I take out climbing their first time.
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OW
Trad climber
Patagonia
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My foot shape has changed over the years, getting ever wider. The shoe makers have changed quite a bit too, for example La Sportiva started widening their shoes that were shipped to the US a few years ago. Fit is where it's at, regardless of the kind of climbing you plan to do. I like to have a variety of shoes, from comfy high tops to eyeball-popping supertight slippers.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Megas.
Broken in, they are great for just about anything.
Now that they are discontinued, what am I gonna do?
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TomMoulin
climber
Las Vegas
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get them resoled w/o the stiff white plastic and they turn into the velcro's with a killer heal.
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA
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synchros 2pr
mocs 4 pr ( wore out 2, found a pr at the base of matthes crest, they are big but fit rad for thin cracks)
red chilli spirit-like a muria but under 100 bucks. getting them resoled with stealth.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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T*R...here you go:
I've never seen these beauties in action.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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OK, here are a few of my favorite shoes, including my first pair, etc... most of you will recognize at least some of these:
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hey Ed, it looks like it has been a while since you re-soled your RRs--trying to get them smooth, or something?
Also what is the shoe between the RR and the EB in the 11:00 O'clock position?
My shoes:
1965 to 1980:
Spyders
RDs
RRs (worn only a few times)
PAs (several pairs)
EBs (many pairs)
Then a long stretch of AllenEdmonds
5.10 Newtons and X-rays (which I cannot climb in) for the new me.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Damn, Ed, I can smell 'em from here.
"Megas.
Broken in, they are great for just about anything.
Now that they are discontinued, what am I gonna do? "
buy several pairs and put them in the closet. It's your only hope. Other than randomly scoring them on Ebay in 5 years.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I modified the picture with the shoes... seems lately I like Mythos and Newtons. Mythos for Tuolumne, Newtons for the Valley. I have more Mythos because they wear out faster for me than the Newtons.
Roger, no surviving pairs of EB's for the photoshoot.. but the RR's are forever.
Rhodo - Gary asked the question this morning climbing "how do you post a smell on the internet"... spoken like a true partner.
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Moof
Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Nor. CA
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Present collection:
Retired:
Old boreal fires
5.10 huecos (with foam wedge) that died from squamish rot, and still reak after over a year of washing, freezing, and not wearing
Almost retired:
5.10 Altias, the ugly green ones, stretched about 2.5 sizes
5.10 guide almightys that long since lost all the dots
Won't die, but wish they would:
Boreal aces, the blue and gold
Too damn tight:
5.10 lace up anastazis. They stretch to perfect, then shrink back a week later
5.10 zlippers. Same story.
poifect:
2 pairs newtons
1 pair mythos
1 new pair hueco, same style, barely broken in
sportiva boulders
Just started the break in:
1 pair teal kaukalators (ebay is the only place with hightops...)
1 pair makalu dru's, probably gonna be too tight...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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I can't believe I'm going to spend my time writing on this thread! What is it with shoes? So many threads on Climbing boards about shoes.
I'm guilty too. I have more shoes than Imelda Marcos.
Started with RRs, then lots of EBs. I sewed my own patches on the canvas to protect them in wide cracks. Then Contacts and finally Fires.
Then the madness really began.
My favorite shoes of all time were Boreal Vectors resoled with 5.10 rubber. I would so like to have another pair.
Now I can't count the shoes. My favorite are 5.10 Newtons. Main complaint...They are the stinkiest shoes on the planet. The fake leather does it.
Gotta sell some shoes this year, resole some shoes, maybe stop by the 5.10 outlet
PEace
karl
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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Mar 24, 2005 - 11:04pm PT
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I couldn't find another thread to ask this question and I didn't want to start ANOTHER shoe thread.
Has anybody tried on both Mad Rock and Five-Ten shoes? Is their sizing similar, I mean is the size 10 the same fit for both makers?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Mar 25, 2005 - 11:06am PT
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Just started climbing with some mad rock shoes and was impressed so far(between snow storms). Fit was good, constuction seems to be more beefy then 5.10 and so far the rubber has been surprising. At size11.5 there sizing seems comparable to 5.10 but in the larger sizes I'm sure it's harder to tell, they seem like they won't strecth out as much or as quickly as 5.10's. Surprisingly happy with them so far and for the last 15+ years I've been a strong 5.10 advocate.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
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New to my likeing are the Gallileos (technical face edging) and the Ascents (for moderate or wide crack routes). I believe that the Venoms are still the sweetest shoe out there however for the price,.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:00pm PT
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Acopa icampa, best shoe ever. Like i said, cant really get a hold of those right now.
alex
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:15pm PT
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Imagine my surprise, as I walk in to the visitor center at Devil's Tower to have a look. There is a glass cased display of "ancient" climbing gear which includes a pair of my first climbing shoes: Kronhoffers.
These days I really like the Sportiva Mythos for all around, the Scarpa Inferno's (once broken in) for more technical, and I still have a couple pairs of the old Scarpa Edge's for the hard core granite razor blade stuff.
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guavajelly57
Trad climber
berkeley
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Feb 14, 2006 - 08:50pm PT
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As to the question "Has anybody tried on both Mad Rock and Five-Ten shoes? Is their sizing similar, I mean is the size 10 the same fit for both makers?"
When i was looking into new shoes last fall, i tried out a few shoes, Evolv rock star, various Mad Rock shoes, and eventually ended up with the 5.10 Anasazi, which by far out performed the mad rocks. But to the question no. I could not get my moderately wide foot into a mad rock, while the Anasazi lock on nicley. and when i sized up into a Mad rock to try it out the rubber was definately inferior.
my .02
adam
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 14, 2006 - 09:54pm PT
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Acopa "Sidewinder"
Acopa "B3"
Acopa "Spectre"
Real shoes for real climbers!!!! heh heh, jb
hobo - If ya really want another pair of Icampas I can get you a pair!!! You should check out the new stuff though...you'd be surprised.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:01pm PT
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JB, post up a link for those of us who don't know about these (never miss a chance for a shameless plug ), I'm in the market for a new pair of shoes.
Until then, the UFO's, got two pair, different models. love em both, ones on the second resole, ones on the third, both need another but might not be enough shoe left to attach any new rubber...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:35pm PT
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Blowboarder! No problem...
acopausa dot com /
Mexican rubber - eeet's verrrrry steeecky! Simon...jb
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:41pm PT
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jb, cool.
Care to compare the B3 and the Sidewinder? Those two jumped right out at me, hard to argue with velcro but the aggressive last on the Sidewinder looks tempting.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 14, 2006 - 10:48pm PT
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Barefoot on SoIll sandstone out at Giant City.
Otherwise, Blue Kaukulators - still climbing in a like-new pair I got on ebay. Never cared for the brown ones or the Megas. I have a pair of Megas, but I cut off the achillies' rands on them so you could actually wear them all day. Haven't worn them once since getting a new pair of BlueK's.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:24am PT
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Blowboarder!
Yeah - B3 is a pretty aggresive sport shoe with improved outside edge action. Toe point is wicked - got Editor's choice award in Climbing magazine about a year and an half ago.
Sidewinder is way crazy - very specialized. It's basically built on a generalized mold of the foot in climbing position. The last isn't flat on the bottom like most (all) shoes. A little tricky for dime edges but good on pockets, bumpy rock, pebbles, smearing, and thin cracks. It's all I climb in nowadays but took me over a year to make the change. You can use all kinds of "non-Euclidian" features which are there but I never looked at them (if you got a square peg you look for square holes). If you got a flat edge shoe you look for flat edges. This thing's shape makes you look for all kinds of other features that you didn't realize were there - once you realize how many there are you want the Sidewinder more and more. Gripped magazine gave it a rave review for pocket climbing - pretty advanced shoe though.
Really, the B3 is more practical but the Sidewinder will change your footwork forever...
plug, plug....Cheers, jb
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 15, 2006 - 03:29pm PT
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JB:
Any retailers in San Diego County carrying Acopa? I'd like to try them on first. I've got a D width, boxy foot. I've never been able to wear any model of Sportiva shoe. My favorites were (1) the Scarpa Edge, (2) after a resole, the black and green Boreal Aces, which fit like a glove, and (3) Fires. I tend to face climb on granite more than anything else, so I like the board lasted shoes. What model Acopa would you recommend?
P.S. REI doesn't carry them anymore. None at Nomad Ventures either.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
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John- I'd have to say go with the Aztecs! They're super comfy and good for edging. Kinda like an low top fire classic with way better shaping. The Mexican rubber is also really sticky like the old Fires. They accomodate a wide foot quite well. Peter Croft wears them too (he's got pretty wide feet too!). Gimme a shout if you need more help with sizing! I'm pretty sure you'll be stoked....cheers, jb
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jbaker
Trad climber
Takoma Park, MD
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
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My favorites are still the black and green Aces. Then Kaukulators. The worst I ever had were a pair of Kamets.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Feb 15, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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My however many cents:
Acopa has the stickiest rubber, most sensitivity, bar none.
Five ten is almost as sticky.
Sportiva is most durable, my miuras have been through six resoles.
Mad rock sucks my balls. Really, ive tried them, and there is a noticable sh#t-factor.
That has been my experience.
alex
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Feb 15, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
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Green and Black Aces did it all, only needed to carry around one pair of shoes. the Fire Cats were damm good could lace 'em right down to the toe. Had a pair of RD's resoled with EB rubber, kicked A back in the day with the leather uppers called them RB's.
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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Well, a lot has happened in a year. Still have the Synchros, still love them, but I've discovered really the perfect shoe for my foot. Maybe I should not fall victim to the discontinuation blues like so many before, and order like twenty pairs. Although, I don't think I'll have to, as they're quite popular, and not in a flash in the pan-type way either. I'm talking about the Muiras. All I wear now. LOVE them. So damn comfortable. I have a long (12/13), low volume, high arch narrow foot. I crank them down tight (the top view looks like a football, you can see almost no tongue until you're halfway up the laces) and I'm good to go. I don't take them off when I belay.
But I really, really want to try a pair of the Acopas.
As a side note, my bro gets Montrails for mega cheap, and has three different models. i don't know which ones, but he freakin swears by em. LOVES em. Loves the rubber and everything.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:36am PT
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My Fires and Fire-Cats have been re-soled a couple of times each, they work good enough for me. I'm keeping them until they start making high-top boots again. I use an old pair of Asolo Shoe-nard/Canyons for bicycling. Nice, stiff soles. Their smooth profile makes them easy to get into toe-clips.
Follow five-ten and ride 50 miles in the same shoes.
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LOWERme
Trad climber
Santa Fe N.M.
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Feb 16, 2006 - 02:45am PT
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And here I thought that the Valley was the only place men could go and feel comfortable talking about shoes!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 16, 2006 - 08:03am PT
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I had a pair of PAs that when they needed to be resoled I had EB soles put on, so I had the stiffness of the PA last for edging and the stickiness of the EB rubber for smearing. Worked okay.
But of course my first climbing shoes were RRs, tried Chouinards (Shoenards) but really didn't like them (though I understand Henry Barber really though they were the biz), and of course EBs and then Fires.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Feb 16, 2006 - 08:51am PT
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Ventors have replaced Ascents as my trad shoe.
But you haven't felt real comfort until you try the Nike Cinder Cones. Unfortuneatly discontinued too.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 16, 2006 - 09:25am PT
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My first pair of the old red PAs. Hard unsticky rubber, but what a change of attitude when I first put them on. Free climbing, yeah!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 16, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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La Sprtiva Tao
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 16, 2006 - 11:50am PT
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John, I think that shoe you posted needs to be tested on Irish rock. If you send me a pair I'll be glad to test them.
Oh yeah, size 40 (Euro) or 8 (American) should do.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 16, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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It already has been tested on Irish rock! Nice try though.....peace, jb
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roy
Social climber
New Zealand -> Santa Barbara
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:35pm PT
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Hi,
For the first ten years it was hiking boots or sneakers, due to student poverty.
Then I heard about a guy selling climbing soles out of his garage in Burbank. I went around a bought some soles. It was a new business, some name like 5.10. Still being a student I resoled my sneakers with his rubber and that kept me going for another 10 years (I didn't get out much).
A nice comfy high top Scarpa was my first real shoe - very comfortable. Half a dozen resoles kept that one going for about 10 years. Now I have Sportiva Megas, but to stop them from severing my archiles I cut slits through the band around the heel. High tops again; the key to ankle scraping wide cracks and all day routes. There's nothing like this on the market now so I'll keep begging the rubber room to plaster another sole on the decaying uppers.
Cheers,
Roy
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:39pm PT
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fattrad, you're right it's been so long since I bought a pair of climbing shoes that I may be size 41 or 42. Can't remember
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Feb 16, 2006 - 03:35pm PT
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So John, I want to go climb all the 5.12 the thin edging routes at Courtwright and Dome Rock. What have you got for my size 7 EEEE feet? Anything that will work as well as Black Toa's did?
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ikellen
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
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Mad Rock Phoenix - Loved em, even lasted decently well for me. Good edge, smear, hook. Still use them in the gym occasionally
Sportiva Cobras - Great Sport/Bouldering, not very stiff so they made cracks hard, but a great face climbing shoe.
Montrail Cruisers - Horrible, or maybe I just sized them wrong. I guess they were ok in big cracks, but any foothold smaller than a huge block was impossible with these. Returned em after two sessions.
Mad Rock Locos - Really only good for overhanging pockets and buckets. Too down turned for anything less than overhanging. Extremely tight fit. Returned them.
Five Ten Moccasyns - Excellent for everything but severly overhanging. Not a good long route shoe as performance drops significantly if you size them up. Excellent for face and thin cracks. Still use em.
Sportiva Tradmaster - Excellent Long route and crack climber, ok to good for face. Very comfy, and warmer than most climbing shoes due to liner.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:03am PT
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shortimer - Wow! I'd have to say the Spectre (see above photo). EEEE width! Tough foot to fit! I dunno - Croft digs 'em, he's got some wide feet! The only other choice is the Aztec - it'll fit the wide foot better but won't quite have the edge power of the Spectre. Try 'em out - who knows, they could be the ticket...
Cheers, jb
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:10am PT
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John, where do you get them? the web site says REI in Berkeley but they didn't have any the last time I stopped in (a couple of months ago).
I was trying to get Gary Mekan to make me a pair of shoes, but I think time has run out on that option.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Feb 17, 2006 - 11:41am PT
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First pair were "PA" and "RR". I wear Sportiva Trad-master for almost every type of climbing now.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
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Bob, tell me what you like about the trad-masters. And don't like.
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BeBe
Sport climber
Phoenix
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:21pm PT
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Sportiva Tradmaster.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:26pm PT
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Ed Hartouni! Yo Marmot in Berkeley has them!!! Check it out...they're sweet!
cheers, jb
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Feb 17, 2006 - 12:48pm PT
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Rob...there not much I don't like about them. They fit my feet well, are great for long routes, smear and edge fairly well and I can wear them all day without too much pain.
I also think most shoes today are overrated and over priced. Look how hard people climbed in RD's ( John Gill & John Stannard) and other sub-standard shoes back in the 60's and 70's.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
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You'll climb better if your feet are comfortable...heh heh, jb
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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Acopa question:
Will the Acopas be making an appearance in the Mountain Shop anytime soon? This would be quite nice.
-Kate.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:51pm PT
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Holdplease2 - we're trying to convince them! Hello Mountain Shop...did you hear Kate?
I wonder if the Mountain Shop checks out supertopo???? In the meantime, you can always try 'em via online ordering - if ya' don't dig 'em, ya' don't have to pay!
Cheers, jb
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Feb 17, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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Bachar wrote: You'll climb better if your feet are comfortable...heh heh, jb
Too bad we didn't figure that out in the 70's. Fecking eb's.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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Is this the real bob D'antonio? Wow... much props bro, long time...yeah really! I put on an old pair of EB's a couple weeks ago to see how they felt. NO MATTER what SHOE you TRY on TODAY, it doesn't even come close to that kind of pain level (the seams in the toe box! ...woah) - I couldn't believe it! I'm sure you remember hiking to the base, climbing the route, and doing the descent IN THESE THINGS! Unimaginable now days...
Anyway, if you're anywhere as strong as you used to be, you're probably still crankin' pretty hard (assuming you are the REAL bob d'antonio!!) heh heh, jb
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 17, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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He's the real bob d'antonio John.
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ssyronical
Sport climber
Illyrium? Wind Ridge?
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Feb 17, 2006 - 02:41pm PT
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I graduated from: yaddayaddayadda who cares, they were nasty ...to anasazi velcros (soft and sensitive, but had to wear them so short I developed really serious problems with my feet ).....
and now I wear Acopa Aurora’s. These are ideal for someone with a narrow, small heel, high arch and long toes. They get very soft, which I like. After I found them I gave away about 8 pairs of shoes which, by comparison, were horrible, nasty, torturous insensitive tools of evil.
The ad is right: you WILL climb better if your feet don’t hurt.
Say... why don’t rock shoe makers design shoes for different shapes of feet, rather than, or in addition to different types of climbing? This would kind of cover the male/female thing, too.
And why do they rate shoes for ‘beginning’ ‘intermediate’ and ‘advanced’ climbers?....do they fit differently after you can climb 5.13? I thought those square board-lasted shoes I had at the beginning were the most painful, clumsy objects on earth, and they didn’t help me advance any faster.
(BTW Bachar, your website says Auroras are good for beg/intermed climbers...now why do you say that? In which case... I’ll be intermediate forever and happy about it. I’m pulling down pretty hard in a pair that are totally blown out and have holes in the toes, and my feet never never ever ever blow off. I’d say it’s the FOOT and what’s attached to it that’s intermediate, not the SHOE... And if you’ve got high arches and strong feet, you don’t need a cambered shoe, you’ve already got a good hook at the end of your leg....consider this when designing shoes for women, maybe?)
Wouldn’t it be great if someone did a real shoe ratings system for shoes with the foot shape indicated along with the stickiness, last type, stiffness, etc? It would be cool to find a little diagram on the outside of the box. That would save a lot of time. Not that I’m thinking of changing brands.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Feb 17, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
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John...thanks for the kind words. Nothing but respect, awe and admiration for you and what you have done for the sport of climbing.
Hope all is well and you are happy and healthy, later, Bob
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 03:18pm PT
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ssyronical-
You're right about the beginning -intermediate-advanced thing. Some shoes may obviously be a little too much for a beginner but in reverse, I believe there should be no reason to give a beginner something that won't work on harder climbs. I guess we kinda fell into this stupid marketing "trap" where things get put in these so-called "categories". Most all our shoes can be easily worn by beginners as well as "experts". Beginners might not fully appreciate the B3 or Sidewinder (but then again their footwork may excel because of the advanced "feel" these shoes have).
Almost every model we have has a different last shape (minus: Aurora Velcro = Aurora Lace and Chameleon = Spectre shape) - different toe profiles, widths, arches, etc.. I think it gets to be pretty tough for stores to carry all these models so at a certain point, you can't have too many models (the climbing market just ain't big enough - like say the running shoe market). We also make some custom shoes when they get requested.
Much thanks for your compliments! and also for the critique as well. I'm glad the shoes are working for you. By the way, a lot of guys wear the "women's" Aurora - I won't give names however! Vice versa, many Women say they're too narrow!
Werner - Thanks for the verification! Especially coming from someone who didn't think I was me (or something like that...). Props to d'antonio as well!
cheers, jb
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
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Favorite? as in most foot friendly? easy, Nike Lava domes with original stealth rubber and a generous coat of plasti-dip(thanks Russ) everywhere that wore hard. (Ok I had some ego in the lava dome.)
Edgeing? That old 5.10 green thing, the Micro resoled and randed with C4. made 11 edges seem easy for even me! wish I still had em!
First? aid in Pivetta Muir Trails, 1967, ouch. I was twelve.
Mixed- Kastinger Superlights fit comfy big for thin Neoprene socks, awesome!
Cracks? at the time I thought the Kamet Joshua tree was pretty good.
Best Made? LaSportiva Mariacher
Favorite Shoe Trivia? Eduard Bordineaux, dad owned a shoe factory. His son liked to climb, so the rich kid had dad make a shoe for him. EBs. and then there was Mike Sturm, buyer for Liberty who was the sole importer for EBs, he was also paid a comission as a sales rep for Bordineaux, pay went to his Swiss account which he drew from while in Europe twice a year buying climbing gear. Mike lived very well twice a year.
Best shoe combo? a friend can't do one section in one shoe, can't do the crack in the others, solution one of each.
Favorite shoe quote: "best shoes I ever owned." Ron Carson, with the first free pair of shoes he ever owned as he climbed in the needles
Favorite shoe AD? 5.10 and the steelworkers.
Favorite climbing shoe maintenence story: Think of a pile of shoes a foot and a half high, around 40 pair, a rag, a can of Toluene, and Tony. who freaking else?
Fovorite shoe selling story: Resoles cost me 17.50 and I sold resoled shoes donated to the shop for 25 bucks to get people into the sport. But a customer with no bucks kept eyeing a pair of Fire's so I offered them for what I knew he had, 15 bucks.
His reply was not thanks or great, instead he said how about ten? I said are you refusing the offer of this pair of shoes for fifteen dollars?...
Ya!
"The price is now 25 dollars." he left sceaming and swearing.
Sweet.
Favorite Shoe sales guy, Gerardo Clavo, Kamet, Madrid, toooo funny and a really nice man.
Favorite shoe guys in the US? Charles Cole, not necessarily all the people at 5.10 though, Randy Hankins, and Helmut Lennes at Climb High.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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t-rainbow
Yeah! We have two "Women's" shoes (one really - two variations). The Aurora velcro and the Aurora lace. Guy's with narrow feet like 'em too. Women with wide feet wear our other stuff. The Aurora Lace is NICE!!! The Velcro is too...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
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Thanks John.
fattrad... I was a member of REI before I moved back to Cali... so I never even thought of it, and beside, the Berkeley REI is another world.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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t-rainbow...sorry, we have no elastic slippers yet!
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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Holey testerosas, super agressive down turned. In Durango I might actually use a pair, but the Venoms seem to fit the bill enough for now. Montrail seems to be making some interesting thermomoldable shoes.
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JAK
Sport climber
Central NC
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May 19, 2006 - 06:16pm PT
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Not much to report since I haven't been doing this that long, but:
1st Pair - Mad Rock Mugens. Didn't want to spend much, and they weren't much. Rubber was plenty sticky, shoe was plenty comfortable after broken in, very flexible, AWESOME heel cup. Wore out very quickly (~3 months @ 3 times a week climbing, mixed indoor and out) but this could be do to the fact that I was/am a new climber and was just beating the piss out of them with terrible footwork.
2nd Pair - Evolv Bandits. Excellent rubber, far better than the other types I have tried (Mad Rubber, Vibram XSV, Stealth C4). Much stickier than you would think for how hard it is. Imagine a sole that feels like an edger with a hard, fairly stiff sole, and add the stickiness of Stealth C4, and you have Evolv's Trax XT5 rubber.
Anyway, these shoes have a beefy instep and very focused toe, but are not cambered. They stretch VERY little, so be aware that how they fit in the store is roughly how they are going to fit forever. There is a teensy tiny hair's bit of give, almost unnoticable.
My only gripe is that the heel cup is tad deep, and there's a small air pocket in there. If someone could merge the Mugens' heel cup with the rest of the Bandit, it would be the ultimate sport shoe.
A little uncomfortable for long climbs, for that use:
1st borrowed pair - La Sportiva Mythos. Most comfortable shoe I've ever stuck my feet in. A little flexible, but if you have the leg strength (I do), you can make up for it and the increased sensitivity is nice. I plan to buy a pair of my own for long (all day) trad and slab work.
Excellent smearer, adequate edger. Wouldn't want to crack climb in them. Toe is also a tad blunt for my tastes, but I like to toe into itty bitty pockets, so your mileage may vary.
2nd borrowed pair - Five Ten Anasazi Velcros. Perfectly good shoe, but I preferred the design of the Mugens. The Anasazi has lasted longer of course. Stealth C4 is very sticky, but I'd say Mad Rubber and Trax are on par. Felt a bit pricey for what you got, but maybe that pays off in the long run in terms of durability - I only had them for a couple weeks before my buddy needed them back.
Ats all I got folks. More to come as I get more experience.
Bonus: Shoes I really want to try:
La Sportiva Miuras
Acopa Spectre
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 19, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
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After barefoot on warm SoIll sandstone I'd say my blue Sportiva Kaukulators. Thank god for ebay...
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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May 19, 2006 - 06:42pm PT
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been climbing in ACOPA spectres lately, and love em....
La Sportiva MEgas are also on top of the list, as are the old five ten razors (green)
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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May 19, 2006 - 07:02pm PT
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hey locker, not sure if you will be around Bishop anytime soon, but Wilsons has acopas, thats where I picked mine up. Good luck...
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JAK
Sport climber
Central NC
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May 19, 2006 - 11:32pm PT
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Acopa shoes just really appeal to me. They have a no-nonsense look to them that says "built to climb well and not sweating the flashy looks and spray". I like that attitude.
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Professor Fate
Big Wall climber
Vulgaria
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May 19, 2006 - 11:34pm PT
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Nike: Air Cinder Cones. Great for long routes in the Sierra's like Pallisades Traverse. Those and a pair of converse.
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Anastasia
Trad climber
Near a mountain, CA
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May 19, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
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If your looking for stores that carry Acopa shoes, just use this web address and it will give you the whole list of who carries them.
acopausa dot com /acopa.jsp?navigation=20
You can also order shoes through Acopa's website.
Note:
I once had a problem with the shoes because the rubber came up too high on the back of my ankle and pinched a nerve. I told them about it and they sent me another pair that were cut lower.
"They really are a great company."
I can honestly say that my Acopa shoes are the best pair I have ever owned.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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May 20, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
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Anybody know the exact dates of the big steps in shoe technology?
My dad used these grey suede "kletershoe" (early '60s) imported by REI from Itally.
My guess is late 60s Royal came out with lugged sole RRs.
Then came the big break: EBs. (yea, look bad today but boy were they better than the competition, I think biggest one step improvement in all) Early 70s?. (remember to stitch on the leather ankle pads :) )
(Remember the red spiders -knock off of EBs I think. And somewhere along the way I had a pair of Couinard wall/free stiff soled boots. Can't remember the name but I wish I still had them. Good aid shoe but climbed up to 5.9 pretty well.
Then the fires (1980 date?)came out but I was about out of climbing by then.
Two decades later I came back to sport and have been through mythos, megas, ace's and a few other.
But the big steps to my mind 1)RRs, 2)EBs 3) Fires, 4) not sure but some slipper thing, maybe mythos? Everything else is just evolution, not revolution.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
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Pitons -any opinion
There is also a new la sportiva shoe any takers on that.?
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 30, 2006 - 06:14pm PT
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Hey JB-could you and Acopa make a groovy high-top? Seems like there's a lot of demand for it, and not all just nostalgia... (my blue kauks have been resoled umm 4 times and are dyin on the vine)
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2007 - 01:41am PT
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Testarosa, Venoms, Muiras, Baracuda (EH), Mythos, Gallileo (gym only)
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:46am PT
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All-time faves remain the Asolo Onsight. That green low-top one. For some reason they fit my feet perfectly. I had a pair re-soled TWICE, and they're still out in the garage somewhere. The second time I put on the old formula, hard Mega rubber.
Man do those shoes stink, like cabbage farts or something. I have another pair I still wear occasionally, resoled, but I savor them like sipping an aged liqueur - don't want to use them up all at once.
For new shoes, the modern Sportivas fit my super-wide feet well. But I'm ready to buy some of those Acopa things - they got a wide one?
B
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Dec 23, 2007 - 02:02am PT
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EB's
Boreal Fire
Boreal Fire
Five Ten Razor (#3 favorite)
Boreal Aces
Kamet Joshua Tree (horrible)
Five Ten (?)
Five Ten Moccasym (#2 favorite)
La Sportiva Mythos (best all-around)
La Sportiva Meriak (bought in Italy, never seen in U.S.)
La Sportiva Mythos
Acopa B3 (#1 favorite)
with lots of resoles inbetween...
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 23, 2007 - 04:20am PT
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My Boreal Ace's
Plus I had a pair of "mystery shoes."
(They were given to me.)
They were black and had a cushion insoles.
I really loved that pair.
Plus I am bias toward the whole line of Acopa shoes.
My favorite are my Aztecs since they were my first pair. I remember being given them with happiness and joy for my birthday. I remember sleeping with them on when they were brand new to stretch them out before heading out to Tahquitz. "I was so excited..."
My happy memories,
AF
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don coyote
climber
mahogany ridge
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Dec 23, 2007 - 09:56am PT
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Anybody else out there ever clunk around in a pair of Makalu's? Damn, that was a shoe er boot.My buddy Justin used to buy shoes from a guy that I think made them, anyway he sold them, from the back of his van in eldo.They were called chongo's?
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
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La Sportiva Mariacher
Boreal Ballet (the stiffer version)
5.10 UFO
Scarpa Phantom (w/C4 Rubber)
La Sportiva Mythos
and the BEST al'round shoe...
5.10 Guide Tennie (the last two versions)
 ec
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Dec 23, 2007 - 06:32pm PT
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Mostly climb cracks and slabs. LOVED the original Aces...4 pairs...SYNCOS replaced them well enough...4 pairs..many resoles...then a few too many pairs of total floppy crap made for hunnerd-pounders...then, then the light shone bright....
Acopas.
The best fitting shoes I have EVER owned, though the rubber is a bit too soft for me, but sticky as hell while it lasts...and the customer services is bar none.
JB's, Aztecs, and Chameleons...all kick ass.
ACOPA FOR LIFE!
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Dec 24, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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Sportiva:
Mariacher
Futura
Mega Evolution
Syncro
Katana
Didn't like the Barracuda and the Miura doesn't fit my foot well
I got some 5.10 Anasazi Mesas as a close out and really liked them but they fell apart in less than a month
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
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Bump
and the Mad Rock Flash is ok, I had them resoled with Onyx for the gym. I can't toe in them very well. I covered the toe box in seam grip to save wearing through the top in cracks, I recommend waiting until they stretch should you try this out.
They stopped making the Venom and the Barracuda. Very disappointing, were people not digging the webbed rubber. But now that I have sized up the Miura a half size they are my new faves.
Still rocking the Syncros (w 5.10 rubber, kick ass on Northdome slab routes) for long days out and of course they compete with the Mythos.
Testarossas rock on the steep and technical- they make little holds into ledges I can spring off of!!
I am a shoe snob. got 8 pair now
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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May 16, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Robbins boots 'cause you could kick steps in hard snow and they looked so cool!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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May 16, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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My favorite shoes were Sportiva Kendos. Even though they had no internal structure, the fit for me was so precise that they were the best edging shoes ever. Incidentally, I have a pair of 41 Kendos that I can't get into, almost mint, for sale, $50. My effort to replace them is Mythos, which I like, although not as well.
My wife says she will have to quit climbing when her old style (wine colored) huecos finally expire.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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May 16, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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by far the best crack shoe I ever had were some custom ones I bought out of Utah called Geckos. I went through four pair, still have one pair left. Can't remember who I ordered from, he made them in his own shop I think. Anyone else ever use these?
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JohnRoe
Trad climber
State College, PA
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May 16, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 23, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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It's like music or food.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 23, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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I really loved my old ballet's.
With better rubber.
D'oh.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 23, 2009 - 01:23am PT
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My la Sportiva Miuras really make a difference for me on hard steep face climbing routes. I also got a pair of 5.10 Pitons and those shoes rock for crack climbing. Love em and been raging on all kind of stuff with them.
Edit: I have tried to find Acopas around here to try them but can't seem to find them. Tried to order off the website and had some issues with email. Wierd, I will keep trying.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 23, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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Green Asolo's still climb in them after 10 resoles.....
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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May 23, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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Ruby red slippers, aka moccasyms...best for thin cracks, you can torque the toe into some pretty thin stuff. The difference between sucess and failure...trickery, technology, a fine line...
Now the folks at 5.10 have seemed to have gotten the message that their slipper is a crack favorite... hence the new beefed up version with rubber over the toe (ironically the moccasym, while excelling at cracks falls apart quickly from the abuse of jamming. This is a shoe not made for cracks, perfect for cracks...
Has anyone gotten ahold of the new orange slipper from 5.10, beefed up for cracks? I'm interested to see if by beefing them up they've lost any of their thin toe profile and flexibility.
Until I find out about the new one, I guess I'll still be shoe-gooing and aqua sealing the uppers on my moccasyms to keep them from falling apart.
As far as the best all-around shoes ever, the second generation of more ergonomic Boreal shoes after the Fires (pronounced fee-rays)are the best in my opinion. Nowadays it's hard for me to find good all-rounders- Mythos don't fit my wide feet!
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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May 23, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
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By the way, I tried the "high-top" Acopas. First issue: they don't cover the ankle bone... Hmmm... That's the part that bleeds when I climb off-widths...#2: they seem to have been made for an alien foot...Ouch!!! #3: the rubber is crumbling on the edges... very strange...
But it's not all bad, these shoes were surprisingly great on friction routes. That wasn't what I bought them for for, but what the hell?
These will be great when fully destroyed to the shape of my fat feet and resoled with 5.10 rubber.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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May 23, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Aces and later Ballets resoled with 5.10 rubber,
Only needed one shoe that could do it all
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 26, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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My old yellow/grey asolos were a great all around boot, they finally died after multiple re-soles.
My scarpa rock masters are still going strong, I need to send them off for a 1/2 sole.
Then there were the original red ninjas. I wish there was a similar super sensitive slipper. It seems that most slippers have gone the route of being closer to climbing shoes than slippers. They didn't last very long, but oh so sensitive.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 26, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Scotte:
"Green Asolo's still climb in them after 10 resoles....."
Dude, those things were cranking out obnoxious fumes 20 years ago. I can't even imagine now. Often as you light up, it's amazing that you haven't set yerself on fire.
Do Rob a favor and hire a local lowball to courier them to the nearest EPA toxic waste dump.
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Chinchen
climber
Living on the road
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May 26, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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Boreal Vectors. Hands down.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 26, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
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Spectre rhymes with Vector.... hmmmmm
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 26, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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"Spectre rhymes with Vector.... hmmmmm"
Hehehe.
Sort of. But not entirely.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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May 26, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
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Kinneys waffle stompers...Great in jam cracks and edging
Shoeinards(sp?) resoled from Eastside with green dot rubber actually did a few .11 leads on smeary routes with those
Fire's... everyone started climbing a grade and a half harder with a tight pair of those.
Purple scarpas with C2 resoles...Stiff for all day and sticky as anything
5.10's The light blue ones
Kaulkulators... Awesome valley shoe but broke down in about 6 weeks of hard climbing
more five tens, whatever....great rubber but the shoes ??????
Resoled Boreal aces and the Blue ones with C4
Chili's resoled with C4
A new untried pair of high top Acopa's, Work isn't allowing for climbing right now. The harder I work the further behind I find myself.......
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Choss Gee
Trad climber
Wyoming/Utah
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May 27, 2009 - 02:47am PT
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Anasazi Verdes
Anasazi VCS when the mean greens don't cut it.
I'm nursing a Ankle injury and want to get back on the rock ASAP and can't really fit an ankle brace in a rock shoe unless its far too big. Do you guys think a High Top would have any benefits for my ankle? having more support and all?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 27, 2009 - 03:02am PT
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My climbing shoe history...
Bare feet
J.C. Penney's Work Boots ($14.95)
E.B.s
Fires
Blue Kaukulators
Blue Kaukulators
Brown Kaukulators (not)
Blue Kaukulators
Megas (had to cut off the heel rand - they still sucked)
5.10 Anasazi & Ascents
Current: Blue Kaukulators / Ventors / Muiras
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 27, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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" Do you guys think a High Top would have any benefits for my ankle? having more support and all?"
Yup, fer sure.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 27, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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I broke my calcaneus (heel bone, just below the talus in the ankle) in early spring 2007. About 3 months afterwards it was still pretty sore. I picked up some acopa JB's which had a lot of support. They took quite a while to break in, but I like them. Stiff, but they smeared well on Tuolumne granite -- I was able to lead 5.7 slab in them. Hope to use them again this year.
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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May 27, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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healyje:
Are you saying the blue Kauks are different than the brown?
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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May 27, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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La Sportiva Synchros were my favorties, by far really. I liked Boreal Ballets and Aces but they didn't seem to have quite the same precision, at least for me. (Maybe some softer shoes for sport climbing, but I'm talking trad here)
Mr. Bacher--if you read this--what Acopa shoe would be most similar? Legends I presume? I've never tried Acopas but would like to. As others have noted, they're not as easy to find as the mass producer brands. I can go to Neptune's.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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May 27, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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The Kaukulator question...
Joseph says they fit differently (the Blue and the Brown) if I
recall correctly.
I have heard this from other people but I can't tell the
difference in fit.
The brown ones are stiffer than the blue, no doubt.
I have both kinds. I can't tell the difference.
I held them up before a friend. He said the difference in shape
was obvious.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 27, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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wow, some of you can recall yr entire shoe history? I can't even get close, probably because I went through so many used cheap pair.
Kronhofer
EB
PA
Ascender (Green)
Ascender (Yellow)
Paragot
Calma
Fire
Ninja
Original Mega
Le Menestrel
asolo slippers
1st gen. Anasazi
--Three or four pair of bonus freebies that I can't quite recall-- at least one pair of Red Chili Sausalitos
moccasym
miura
testarossa
custom kletters by dan asay
jb
sidewinder
merlin
I don't believe that's anything like a complete list, and I can't even do the supplementary boot/crampon/approach shoe chronicle. of the old ones, the ascenders and paragots were the best. no idea what happened to them.
some of you guys must have had really rigorous toilet training, the way you've kept every piece of gear you ever owned.
i'm lucky if i can find a frickin pair of socks that match.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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retired today... my 1995 Kaukualtors. They served me well, and Barry's Resole kept them in play
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Damn Ed....
We got to go crack climbing some time.
Just saying, jb
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richross
Trad climber
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EB's because the remind me of when I was young.
The laces sucked.
They lasted about a week.
Me with a new pair in 1980,Gunks.
Edit...I now wear Sportiva Tradmasters which I love.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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oh boy... i have a lot of shoes from working in the industry.. lets see if i can remember...
1st - Sportiva Cliff's. They were stiff which sucked for gym and sport. Put them away after my second pair. Broke them out 5 years later for snake dike, cathedral peak and RR of fairview. I learned to really climb in them, not pretend.
2nd - Katana. Good for gym, decent for think crack. 2 resoles, wore em for years
3rd - Evolv EVO. Pretty badass, did a lot of climbing. 1 resole, wore my brothers pair after he gave them to me and I resoled THEM.
4th - bought some POS red sportiva shoe off of the interweb. Stitching behind the heel made them impossible to wear.
5th - TradMasters. One of the 'only 3 i will ever need'
6th - Anasazi Velcro. Another of the 'only 3 i will ever need.' 1 resole
7th - red chili velcro. sucked bawls.
8th - Evolv Pontas. Pretty awesome for gym
9th - Evolv Maximus. Rad shoe for walls and moderates when i'm taking newer climbers up long routes.
10th - mythos. 1 resole, second pair. another of the 'only 3'
11th - anasazi lace v2. too small for my feet, got from a friend
12th - galileo. Decent, got from a sales rep. will use more when anasazi's blow up.
13th - gambit. got as a sample from a sales rep, wore the crap outta them. great shoe, not quite as good as a mytho.
14th - evolv royale. brand new, pretty cool for a comfy shoe.
15th - acopa spectres. RAD. will wear more often, have barely had a chance to break em in. love them.
not to mention some shoes i've gotten from friends or my brother who doesn't climb so much. a lot of these shoes were given to me and i wouldn't have purchased if i had the money for, but are good to have. about 6 pair are at random friends houses because i lend them out quite a bit. i love shoes... don't get me started on approach shoes. all i can say is evolv will corner THAT market soon.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I forgot my current favorite (and only) Mythos w/ Barry's special monster-bunion shaped 5.10 resole with a thin crack outer edge whittle at a campground 90 miles away last week and made the big journey hoping that they would be there.
They were!
Someone had found them on the rock where I placed them to dry. (We'd gotten rained on.) They placed them carefully next to the trash can so that I'd have a chance to claim them before they got hauled away as trash. Thanks, stranger!
The $175 that it would cost to put a pair into service in the same way out of the box could be replaced, but the 2-3 perfect June weeks that I'd probably be without good footwear could not!
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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i'm a sportiva boy too-kaukulators, mythos, some old pink syncros. Some nice souls just sold me a pair of brown kauks, for$40, i should be set for awhile. Ah, high tops!
Oh tradmasters too-i'd love them more if they weren't made in china, but in italy like all their cousins.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Lots of pairs of kaukulators in the Rubber Room. That should tell you something.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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I really like my Red Chili Spirits. They fit me very well- precise and snug but not uncomfortably tight. Sticky and durable too.
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Raafie
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Syncros are the current favs. But my throwback to the good ol days. . . . feast your eyes:
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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Jul 12, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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my favorite climbing shoes are the 3 stitch fires I got from Bachar in 1983. They have been resoled 12 times by Tony . I still climb in them currently , althought the last time Tony resoled em 5 years ago he said it would be the last. These shoes have been all over the world with me. they werent the best edging shoes once broken in , but they were my all day never hurt my feet shoes. Some of the rope guns I climb with ask why I still wear these old Chuck Tees . as always but especially now , they have sentimental value to me. I have alot of different brands of shoes for different types of climbing, but these fires will have been the best.
Bill T.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona
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Jul 12, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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It's a toss between my La Sportiva Kaukulator's (how do the compare to the Acopa JB's?) and my Boreal Ace's.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jul 12, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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I LOVED my synchros....
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Jul 13, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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My favorites:
1) Boreal Jazz w/5.10 rubber - the low top before the Aces. Got them at Wilson's (the Mammoth store) in 1988. They have 6 or 7 resoles.
2)Boreal Ballet - Just a great high top.
3)Fires - fit like chuck taylors but they were my first climbing shoe so I gotta keep them. Fun to bust out when climbing with young people.
4) 5.10 Ascent. Super comfy. like the velcro and the heel. The only problem was the rubber around the toe delaminated right away. I sent them off to the Rubber Room (the only place I ever have my shoes done) to be resoled and it happened the same way. Never had it happen on any other shoe.
5) Boreal Ninjas (green)- soooooo tight. tried to put them on last year (after not wearing them for about 9 years) couldn't get them on. I wonder if it is because I wear a 9 and they are 6 1/2? They used to fit (sort of)
RIP JB
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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I just brought my 5.10 Lynx out of retirement while I was resoling my 5.10 Ascents (with Barry's Resolers, he did a FANTASTIC job). The Lynx are by far my favorite shoe- 16 years climbing in them now. All day comfortable, can be fit tight enough, they smear very well and edge well enough for me to onsight 5.10+ granite face. Comfort and performance in one package, what more could I ask for?
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spinner
Boulder climber
CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:42am PT
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I love my Mythos. I'm on my 2nd pair with a few resoles on each. They are great all around shoe.
Just recently got the 5.10 team shoe and I love it too. If it didn't kill my feet I'd wear it for more than 5 minutes at a time.
I also climb in Sportiva Katanas. I use them when I want a little more performance than the Mythos but still want some comfort.
Has anyone heard anything about the new five ten blackwing? From what I've seen it looks amazing.
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Grayarea
Trad climber
CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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My first pair of green Ace's after wearing the standard fire ballets for yrs!Improved my climbing by a whole grade! Had 1 tight pair and 1 loose pair.
Had 3 pairs of Mythos all different sizes, they have been nice.
Now I have the LA sportiva version of the all Day marathon, The trad master! super comfy, nice OW show, Can wear all day, and my toes are still smiling at beer time
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 01:52am PT
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(circa 1980) EBs... had the green korean rock climbing shoes, RRs, Asolo Canyons?, et al before my EBs... but EBs were the first shoe I really liked.
(circa 1990) La Sportiva Megas (the ones from the early 90s, not the later ones) fit my feet perfect and edged like no others. Loved 'em.
(circa 2000) 5.10 Newtons
(circa 2010) La Sportiva TC Pros. My favorite shoe of all time?
I've purchased alot of shoes. But, those are the real standouts for me.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:38am PT
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After 52 years of climbing, I've pretty much lost count of how many pairs of shoes I went through, but sitting here trying to reconstruct them sequence was fun!
Starting in 1959: At least 5 pr. Kronhofers, 1 pr. Cortinas (they really sucked,didn't fit my foot shape), 2 pr. Kletter Spiders (not too bad for edging or aid), 1 pr RR Blue boots (arrgh!), and 2 pr. PA's, 3 or 4 pr. RR Verappes (excellent shoe for face climbing and thin cracks), and finally 4 pr. Mariacher's. I recently acquired another 2 pr. mariacher's that I had resoled. I still have a pr. of Boreal Green Aces, and a pr. of Boreal Ballet's. Recent acquisitions before I managed to get the new (to me) Mariacher's: Sportiva Mythos (excellent friction shoe and slab climbing) that I find pretty comfortable; not stiff enough for my tastes. I also bought a pr. of TC Pros, but have only worn them once before the weather turned bad. I also just bought a pr. of Sportiva Tradmasters, and my first impression is that they are "the second coming" of the Mariacher, albiet in a low-cut format.
All time favorites: RR Verappes, Mariacher's, and possibly the Sportiva Tradmasters. I never gave the Boreal Aces a real chance, and I still have them "near new" condition.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:38am PT
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chanting.. TC Pros! TC Pros! TC Pros!
(I am gonna buy 5 pair to lay away for when Sportiva discontinues them. Years in the future, when you guys are all lamenting how you loved them BITD, I will still be dancing up granite in them. Good plan, eh?)
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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The TC Pros are nice for the cracks,
but a big
AWWWWOOOOOOOOO!!!
to the Coyotes for the best all-around!
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:54am PT
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Aaaa! what the hell is that thing?
get it away from me!
;^)
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Nov 20, 2010 - 03:04am PT
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These are my favorite so far...
Aces by Boreal
"all" of my Acopa shoes (John really did have a talent for shoes.)
Plus my 5.10 Moccasins
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Soon to add the Muira VS, curious how this will perform.
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hb81
climber
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Sorry to hijack the thread for a moment:
can someone comment on how the fit and the sizing of the TC Pro
compares to the Miura? The Miura fits me very well, but I can't wear
the Mythos for example. (they're more narrow I think)
Can't buy the TC Pro locally, thats why I'm asking.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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These, circa 1977. Somehow still can't bear to part with them - too many great memories with these on my feet. Wore them until my big toe was sticking out.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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First pair were Chouinard Diamonds, made by Asolo.
Went to EBs quickly after that.
Then Fire Cats. Woohoo! 3 resoles, about 15 years, leather finally just tore apart.
5.10 Huecos (original ones) still using them, and
Sportiva Tradmasters. Super comfy, can climb all day in them. Really fine shoes.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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kpinwalla2 - just a quick resole and a little rand work and Locker can have you back on the rock in no time.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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My favorite climbing shoes: Galibier Vercors
(You didn't specify "rock shoes")
Bugaboos
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Mega's were my all time favorite
Note narly rasta chalkbag circa 1988, it was rad in it's day but a little BIG!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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^^^^
They don't need re-soling, just a bit of shoe goo.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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had these babies 16 years and counting.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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but these are mostly what I wear these days.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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I still have a pair of those Boreals, too. Not my favs, though, a bit too stiff and hard on the doggies.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 10, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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The TC Pro's by La Sportiva are my current favorite. Most technical/comfortable shoe I've ever owned. Some of us have agreed that they knock off two letter grades on certain stemming climbs. Amazing shoes.
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steele
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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Having flat duck feet my choice is my old 94 boreal ballet golds. Old style and fruity name but they get the job done on face or crack, gym or trad. Boreal ace is #2 for thin edges or intense vertical cracks because they are so darn stiff. #3 is any Velcro shoe for comfort and laziness when you don't mind climbing a grade lower. Lots of memories in the old ballet golds- and cost only $75 back thenand today's $150 if you can find them.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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My wife says she will have to quit climbing when her old style (wine colored) huecos finally expire.
Barry has been keeping my old style Huecos in operating condition. I also still use a pair of RR's for aid and walls and a pair of Fires (re-soled with C4) for ow. Otherwise, it's whatever fits.
My all-time favorite, though, were 5N Galibier PA's (to distinguish them from the originals, that were more like EB's in color and construction). I've never had a shoe that fit better, or held an edge better.
I got a good laugh from Roger's 2005 post, because it pretty well fit my experience (except that I used RR's enough to have two pairs). I particularly identified with the Allen Edmonds reference.
John
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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I can't wear anything with turn down toes.
I loved the asolos run-outs. I can't count how many pairs of those I had. I was forced to move on and finally fell in love with the 5.10 huecos. The last pair of those I had were resoled many times, until the shoe grew a permanent slime inside and stunk. I finally had to great kid of them after throughly trashing them on a long 4rth class descent in the dark. I bought two more pairs, exactly the same size. But the model must have been improved, and they do not fit like the old faves.
I have a closet full of shoes worn just a few times that just don't perform or won't break in. The mythos are the closest to functional that I have. But they are pointy where my feet are not. I'm slawys reselling shoes that I wore and could not love.
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pc
climber
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Aug 13, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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I've been in the same shoes from almost the beginning. If it ain't broke...
Kaukulators for almost everything
Boreal Ninja's for the occasional (very occasional these days) hard bouldering/sport climbing adventure.
Cheers,
pc
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Aug 14, 2012 - 10:00am PT
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I'm with S.Leeper. Boreal Ballet Gold's for OW, and those 5:10s for all-day climbs. In the last years of climbing, I began to wear those purple lace-up Sportiva's (can't remember the name) which were very comfortable.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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just added the TC pro to my list of all time favorites. What a shoe. Does it all in style, now my go to all day technical shoe. My mythos are collecting dust.
Testarossa continues to rock steep stuff.
Miuras - always....
Miura XX-looking forward to breaking these in.
Genius- learning to use my feet again but these things are impressive.
Otaki- not sure where to place this in my quiver yet.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 24, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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I felt like I could climb anything in my LaSportiva Megas. I wish I'd bought a dozen pairs. It was just the perfect fit, could wear them all day, no problem.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 24, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Apr 24, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
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I'm with Gary upthread. The Megas were the best edging shoes I ever climbed in, were perfectly fine for everything else, and were comfortable as well.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 24, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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I have two pairs of Boreal Ballets resoled by Barry Chambers of Barry's Resoles.
One pair has Stealth soles.
One pair has Stealth soles and a secret weapon thin plastic insole that Barry made and fit in the front of the shoes. Very sweet edging tool.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Apr 24, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
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La Sportiva Katana Lace and Miura.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Apr 24, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
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I loved my old Huecos. They rotted and died, sadly. They also stank to high heaven. But I could do moderate stuff all day, and then walk off with no foot pain.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 24, 2017 - 02:25pm PT
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I remember when Anasazi Velcro was THE shoe. Back then even LaSportiva athletes were resoling new miuras out of the box with C4..... THAT was the crack shoe! Thats what I did. I almost regret giving my Kaukalators to my number one protege. Almost. I wish I could put new rubber on those! Best lady shoe, Evolve electra. They burn up fast. But great comfort and performance. Best dude shoe? Depends on the dude. I like evolve for bouldering. I climb all trad in either TC Pros or Acopa. Yeah, I got three pairs. I sacrificed a pair to a student.......I loved those shoes. But the dude was worthy. Did anyone mention Boreal Aces?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 24, 2017 - 09:05pm PT
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Em knot's photo, I wish my pair still fit. Id move on after only having toes and 1/4s done. . . . Had four pairs of Mega's, dropped one shoe off Millbrook, and still have the moldy old single,
But not a pair survived.
then also Futura s and kendos.
I skipped resin Rose s one sport
The Mighty Mite - Scott F. was good to me. But the Dolimites, and that 'split' construct?
Did leave impression, didn't last, prolly sucked.
I don't remember.
But the best worst shoes, those eF'N Green Asolo Runouts, fit @ least 1/2 size to small!
The next best worst ?
The black vice s : Sportiva's - Tao's ~> The Tao; Like solar combustion furnaces -
Brutal !
but they sure climb'd quartzite. Point shoes,
I was thinking I could get away with them, in Utah
and ended up climbing part of 'Dangling Participle' bare foot!
I have 3 pairs of the White Syncros . . .
I liked the 1st two generations of blue Ballet, boot where the rand only wrapped the for foot
The golds have a disappointing cardboard foot bed but are full rands.
I wish I could get the Leather bord lasted full rand climbing boot"
Then the Asolo company again had a great Kevlar shoe, and a .yellow slipper shoe. . . .
?????
The Yellow de lamination abomination ! The Dali banana Shoe! Kevin B, gave me a pair 83?
As I was going to say, Scarpa made some good shoes.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 24, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
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Had to love those Taos under a blistering sun!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 25, 2017 - 09:42am PT
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Like Mark Force, I too have got some recent gems from Barry's Resoles. The black and green Aces and the blue and yellow Aces, both resoled in 5mm XS Edge. The Aces are a really cool shoe for about anything.
Acopa Spectres, Sportiva Muiras and Katanas, and the Aces are my personal favorites.
Barry has a variety of the shoes mentioned in this thread including the Spectres and Aces. Give him a call 559-855-4511.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Apr 25, 2017 - 10:36am PT
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Scaraps- I think they were called the "Edge"?? Nursed them with resoles until total breakdown.
Acopa Spectres- current kicks, maybe for another resole or two.
I'm looking at the Boreal Golds and think that will be my next shoe.
La Sportivas have just never fit my feet. :( I always try them on and, alas, it's just never quite right.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 25, 2017 - 01:17pm PT
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I have older Anasazis that are great, but Boreal Aces are my favorite. The last fits my foot so well I can wear them tight without them feeling like a Chinese foot binding.
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Mule Skinner
Social climber
Bishop
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Apr 25, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
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The master of all foot work, Hensel climbs in butora's
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:00am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:07am PT
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Sears (maybe JCPenney) work boots (1974)
Dexter hiking boots (1975)
Red PA (1976-1978)
EB (1978-1983)
Boreal Fire, 1st gen (1983-1985)
Original Five Tennie (1984-1986)
Boreal Fire Cat (1986-1987)
Scarpa, blue/yellow hightop (1987)
Five Ten Vertical (1987-1988)
Five Ten Friction Loafer (1987-1990)
One Sport Frenzy (1988-1990)
Asolo teal color low top (1989-1990)
Five Ten Razor green mid-top w/ slingshot rand (1989-1991)
La Sportiva Tao (1990-1997)
La Sportiva Mythos (1995)
La Sportiva blue slipper (1996-1997)
La Sportiva Synchro (1996-2000)
La Sportiva Cliff (2000-2004)
La Sportiva Mega 2nd gen (2000-2007)
Evolv Bandit (2004-2009)
La Sportiva Dru (2009-2014)
Favorite: La Sportiva Tao
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:17am PT
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Tar,
That La Sportive Tao was by far my favorite show to date, fit like a glove, just enough downturn and super sensitive. I don't try enough different shoes these days to know if there is an equal but I do miss them. For most of the climbing I do these days a comfy pair of Five Ten Grandstones do the trick.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:21am PT
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Yes, Bat.
The Tao. Black Lorica synthetic uppers. Never stretched, so always consistent. Slip lasted. Sophisticated heel cup fit like a glove and popped onto the foot like no other.
Very light weight. Fairly stiff: perfect for hard edging and chisel toe box very good for thin cracks.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Apr 26, 2017 - 11:08am PT
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Oh gee, that's a tough question.
First pair was purchased less than two years ago. From boat size down to street shoe size, from recently broken in, to newly resoled (~$70/pair!), and to completely beat up... I struggle to pick out my favorite every time.
Click on this link (to the above video in screenshot) to see what these beat up shoes are capable of.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 30, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
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Primary shoes used, in order from when I started:
PAs
EBs
Fire (first gen)
Scarpa Crag Rats
Scarpa Super Rats
Scarpa Le Menestral
Butora Mantra
There have been a few others, but not used as extensively as the above list.
I like thin face/slab climbing so prefer stiffer shoes. After years of not seeing any shoes on the market that appealed to me I saw the Butoras a couple years ago and decided to give them a try. If someone is looking for a stiff face/slab shoe I would definitely recommend them. I'm thinking they may even have become my all time favorite, which is saying something considering how well the Scarpa models fit and worked for me over the years.
Shoes are one of those personal preference things though. One persons favorite may be another person's worst nightmare for performance.
Whatever fits your foot and floats your boat, eh?
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