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| Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic |
GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nice
Can't wait for move by move report from Tom!
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Congratulations! Nice job!
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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The universe is once again restored to order.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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Cool, Will we see a Sub 2:40 in the future?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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a wonderful accomplishment!
congratulations to Hans and Yuji,
and good luck to all you NSR (Nose Speed Record) aspirants!
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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i hope they get back on it in september and push it under 2:30!
great job guys, wow...
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Amazing. Congrats to Hans and Yuji!
Ed
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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This (and the other speed ascents) are amazing and inspirational. Congrats.
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Betelnut
Mountain climber
No. California
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Excellent. 2:43:33 with their shirts on, to boot.
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Grant Horner
Trad climber
Castaic, CA
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Outstanding guys -- knew you would do it. As long as you understand that my buddies and I are closing in on you rapidly and will probably be within 20 or so hours next time we go up later this month to do it again ....
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McC
Trad climber
Livermore Ca
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These super speedy climbers and climbs are amazing. Congratulations to Yugi and Hans! A world class performance!!
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marky
climber
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utterly trivial
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lucaskrajnik
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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SHHHHH JESUS.. You guys better keep it down before the Hubers hear.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I just wished I had been at the top with the chilled champagne!
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Jordan Ramey
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Congratulations! Can't wait to hear Tom's blow by blow account!
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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These guys need to be checked for anal probes... I think the aliens did some hot-rodding on them during the abductions.
I see no other rational explanation for such an amazing performance.
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Hubers, can we have our women back?
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Wow. About the only thing I could do that fast on the Nose is walk to the base, get sketched out, and head to the pizza deck.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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hahaha - yeah. "Shimmied" doesn't quite seem to be the right term, does it...
After seeing the "To the Limit" film a few weeks ago, I would have loved to be one of the regular people, out there watching the action from below.
It would be interesting to read about the details that these guys and the Hubers used and how they differed from each other.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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WhooooHoooo! Congratulations guys. I just wish you would have waited until next week when I'll be there. Would love to spectate.
Mal
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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Hiked to the base to watch the start and stayed until the sweet end.
On the warmup pitch, Yuji whipped. A good 25-30 footer. That shook him up a bit. Some folks have said it was for effect or to get the jitters out. Actually, Yuji said there was a tick mark and he threw for it and things didn't go as planned. Ooops.
I love Yuji dearly, respect him enormously and really really wanted those guys to get the record, but there is something heartening about seeing Yuji whip on terrain that even I could climb. Makes my bumbliness seem maybe not quite so pathetic!
These are paraphrases, but....
Tom Frost went on and on about how exciting it was, how "this is what it's all about" and was interviewed extensively by NPR, SF Chron and NYT. He had some great quotes. Look for his quotes in the news.
One little girl stared into the camera and offered this warning to H+Y: "That record's ours. Watch out!" She's only about seven but Sean Jones says that if she keeps going like she has been, she just may have the stuff to back that up.
And the quote that probably says the most about the spirit whole event came from Yuji. He got into a conversation with the little kids while walking back to the picnic area and it was just Yuji and three sub eight year-olds. One of them said "I hope the Hubers don't come back and break your record."
And Yuji said with a huge smile. "I don't care. Actually, we're good friends with the Hubers. I climb with them sometimes. If they can come back and do it faster, that's okay. It's just a matter of seeing what your capacity is."
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82nome
Trad climber
NV
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Congrats...Glad you got it today.
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Gene
climber
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Legendary climber Tom Frost watches as speed climbers Hans Florine, of Lafayette, and Yuji Hirayama, of Japan, break a record on El Capitan. Chronicle photo by Michael Maloney
Posted under fair use. Thanks SF Chronicle & YCA.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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I could rope solo to sickle in that time.
Juan
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Way to go! My only question would be just how tired are you after a go like that and how bad are the leg cramps that night? Whew...
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Yuji and Hans:
As a member of the group that sat in the meadows and had our "minds blown" by watching Madsen and (I believe) Covington climb the Nose in 2 1/2 days, I don't know what to say. Words like good job and congratulations don't seem to say enough.
You have inspired us all, young and old, strong and weak to reach for our limits, to struggle to do our best.
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FetBro
climber
Bay Area
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I'm losing my voice from screaming for over 2 hours and 43 minutes. Seeing Hans and Yuji climb is jaw dropping. The final five minute push was one of the most inspiring moments I've ever experienced. So stoked they made it happen! Congratulations Hans and Yuji!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Good for them! I wonder what the eventual 4 minute mile asymptote equivalent for the nose will eventually be?
"Shimmied" hyark! No doubt a Shiboopi sheneannigan, er technique.
or maybe 'shuffle.'
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Yawn ... I guess it something to do.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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When new discovery becomes limited through over-exploration, the true athlete turns to the challenge within.
Amazing! I would loved to have been there with the Toms, watching.
Erik
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Hans, Yuji --
Rad.
Just RAD!
Freeks, Bothaya.
Thanks for once again expanding the limits, and pushing back the "impossible."
Where it's at.
Brutus & Em
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I'd also love to know their resting heart rate and blood pressure...
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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A 165 lb climber going up a 3030 foot wall (30 feet for the warm up whipper) equals approximately 500,000 foot/lbs, or about 677,868 Joules of Gravitational Potential Energy per climber.
Unfortunately, you do not get extra credit for going up and down, as this is a closed loop type of deal. A "Line" integral of the truest kind, get it?
Working on watts per hour.
Eddy Merckx put out about 200 watts per hour during the hour record in Mexico City, so we can use that as a bench mark.
OK, Watts x Seconds equals total energy, or Joules used.
2:43:33
= 2 x 3600 + 43 x 60 + 33
=7,200 + 2,580 + 43
= 9,823 seconds.
So if we want watts, we divide Joules by Seconds =
677,868/9,823 = 69 watts.
Or about one third of the best guy going flat out on a bike.
When you consider that a climber can in no way expend energy as fast as a cyclist, unless he was just climbing a top rope , that is pretty darn impressive.
Plus, Merckx only rode an hour, these guys did a marathon.
We can now put a condition in there, or find the limit, as x > y,
If Eddy quits smoking and grabs a line, and puts out 200 watts, then he can do the same climb in 1/3 the time, or about 54 minutes.
So that is the fastest any human being could ever get up that wall, if steps were carved in the granite.
A two hour record, I do not think it is possible to turn that into half of a stair climb, unless you put a big net under the wall.
A 70 watt light bulb gets hot, you can cook food with it, thats why these guys need the cool air, they do not have the wind like the cyclist.
Plus, cool air = white fibers, how many power lifters you see from the equator?
The good ones are from Siberia.
It pulls the grains together, like the Stradivarius violin, equal wood density.
O.........K.
Awesome achievement, lets give your audience a break, my nerves are gone, I do not want to hear about any speed climbs anytime soon, just relaxing in the flowers and trees, right?
Can you imagine trying to sleep the night before?
Pass the Nyquill and King Cobra.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Hans and Yuji - how about posting up those resting heart rates and blood pressures? Inquiring minds and all...
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Speed climbing is not my bag, but that is still awesome and inspiring.
Congratulations.
Is that "We are the champions..." I hear in the background???
TC
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Man that was a FUN day.
Granted I'm really into this stuff, but it was the best event I have ever watched live in my life. It blew away team sports like football/baseball etc. where hundreds of games happen every year. This was a rare occurence, with time pressure, and amazing visuals.
It was like watching a super cool movie live. About the same length of time, short enough to keep you engaged, long enough to really get into it.
The "scenes" were great; the start, the stovelegs, boot flake and the king swing, the great roof and pancake flake, changing corners, and of course the last pitch.
Last Sunday was fun even though we knew they were off record pace. Yesterday was simply amazing. Knowing they were right there. There was constant cheeing all throught the last pitch.
The nail biting waiting for the official time from Hans at the top. So cool.
When Yuji comes back in the Fall it will be another great time. Bring binoculars.
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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Yuji is one amazing climber.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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It is a definate team effort... no Hans, no record, no Yuji no record... "we did it" Not "I did it".
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Sean Jones
climber
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Spent all 4 days up there. Both warm up days, the attempt, and the record day. Never really paid too much attention to speed records before. I sure am glad I got sucked into this one though. These guys are sooooooo bad ass !!!
The coolest thing was the day they came down from breaking the record, they were so high and full of energy. They didn't seem tired at all !!!
Congrats to you both !!!!! Totally inspiring.
Can't wait to see what happens in September.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Chris Mac - Something tells me that Hans had the numbers etched into his mind the moment he got wind of the old record bing broken by the Hubers'. He had to ask you what they record was..? Come on. That's Hollywood Hans we're talking about!
I still say it was an awesome sight to witness. I can care less about the record, but I was glad to be a part of the cheering gallery!
Thanks
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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So great.
You know those guys were having a blast up there!
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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I do not know how they keep that climb rate up and maintain coordination for the tricky moves all the way up.
They have to be near their anabolic threshold the whole time, have you ever seen a bike rider out of gas, weaving all over the place?
Thats why you see all the stack ups at the finish, they are trashed by then.
So when I hear the guy is leaping for bolts at the top, I mean ....
Plus, knowing you have an audience, I would rather do something like that on the QT, like the S. Face rap bolters, just to avoid all the press and other B.S.
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| Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic |
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