Anyone have News??? on Yuji and Hans?

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Smack

Trad climber
Utah
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 29, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
Anyone have info on the speed attempt today on the nose?
Granted it is still early in california...2pm or so. But its late here in paris and inquiring minds want to know if the record went down! (it helps me sleep at night to know that people can climb
grade VI in 2+ hours...)
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Jun 29, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
It's driving me crazy too! Been checking the web all day, nothing! I can't believe that nobody has posted anything about it...oh, well, it's gotta be soon...
Smack

Trad climber
Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
Come on people, let the cat outta the bag. Doesn't anybody have friends in yosemite right now???
Jordan Ramey

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 29, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
57 minutes, 48 seconds!!!!!!!!!






no, I really don't know either. What's the word bridge rats?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 29, 2008 - 06:47pm PT
just got back from the Valley, too hot to do what we were going to do... but the boys had a good time on it... saw them at the bridge after they finished just before we left...

but I'm going to let Tom post the details, he saw the whole thing, we were off traipsing around through most of it...

hot day... did I mention that...
Smack

Trad climber
Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2008 - 06:54pm PT
Thank you, i can sleep now. I know that they probably climbed it faster than it takes me to climb and clean a single pitch sport climb.
Michael Irwin

Trad climber
San Leandro
Jun 29, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
BUMP.... Any word yet Tom?
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:07pm PT
Damn!

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/06/29/BALH11H8AA.DTL
gfdonc

climber
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
Double-damn, I can't get to that link - blocked by web filters.
What happened?
Galf

climber
Montreal
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
quote from linked article:

Florine and his climbing partner, Yuji Hirayama, made the ascent up the 2,900-foot wall in 2 hours, 47 minutes and 30 seconds, the second-fastest time ever, 2 1/2 minutes short of the record.
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:24pm PT
"Florine and his climbing partner, Yuji Hirayama, made the ascent up the 2,900-foot wall in 2 hours, 47 minutes and 30 seconds, the second-fastest time ever, 2 1/2 minutes short of the record.
"I'm disappointed," said Florine, 44. "I wanted it. I wanted the pressure to be off. ... But I think we showed everybody today that we can break it."
Florine, a former All America pole vaulter who grew up in Moraga, and Hirayama, 39, of Hidaka, Japan, plan to go for it again Wednesday. If they fail again, the record will be safe until September, when Hirayama plans to return for an all-out assault, complete with television crew.
marky

climber
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
"But I think we showed everybody today that we can break [the record]"

well, actually breaking the record would go much further in that regard
Landgolier

climber
the flatness
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
whew, this just keeps getting sicker. Hans is 44 and Yuji is 39, and the Hubers are 40 and 42. So all I have to do to get this strong is wait until I'm 40, right?

For the hard core bridge rats, would you say there's a major stylistic difference between how the two teams approach this? I know the Hubers trade off leads while Yuji always takes the sharp end, but is there a huge difference between how they're doing it or is it all just hauling butt, not placing much gear, short fixing, and never stopping any more than necessary?
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
marky = asswipe

(why do you care if it's so "meaningless"?)



so hey asswipe-
the hubers did it again and again in their tune-ups.
i think this was the 2nd go for these guys after a 2 year gap.





and btw, what have YOU ever done?
dumbass...
Darren D.

Social climber
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
I would be pleased to climb nutcracker in the time it took these 40 year old dudes to climb the nose. Mind-blowing!
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jun 29, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
I was there, watched most of it unfold... 3:47:30, roughly. I say roughly because I was not carrying the watch, or the clip board. This is just what I heard from Hans' wife, who sat near me in the meadow.

This was just long of the record, but my god... I saw the show from the ECT up, and, all I can say is Yuji can climb! The team was great. I counted no errors in this amazing time on the wall. King swing on the first try. Hans follows, first go. The only time I saw any time spent was shortly after the swing, when I thought the second undid his knot in order to pull the cord from the top of the boot.

I was happy to finally meet Yuji in person. Quiet, unassuming and real. I was under the impression that he was an Uber-human and had the diet to match, well, when I offered a cold one out of the cooler, once it was open it seemed to have disappeared rather quickly. Parched, Yuji? That guy just kicks a$$, and I am honored.

I will defer to Tom's better telling of the accounts of thing as he was able to catch the entire event.

I will have my photos up in the next couple of days.

Long story short, I've had a long and eventful day. My body has been through hot and cold and back to hot again.

I will also explain why I was able to get to the meadow while Yuji and Hans were at their car, watch them leave the area on their way to do the dead, and still only be able to catch photos of the climbing done by them after Dolt tower. The less said, the better.

Cheers For The Duo.
andanother

climber
Jun 30, 2008 - 12:00am PT
"....Yuji always takes the sharp end...."

Is that true?
If so, that's pretty sad. If Hans is being guided up the wall, it would be difficult to even claim an "ascent", let alone a record.

But I guess when your only motivation is competition (in a traditionally non-competitive sport), you're just going to fail anyway.
Landgolier

climber
the flatness
Jun 30, 2008 - 12:05am PT
I'm pretty sure Yuji has led the whole way on all of their speed attempts on the Nose, but "guided up the wall?" Come on dude, they're simuling big chunks of the thing for chrissakes!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Jun 30, 2008 - 12:10am PT
" ...Is that true?
If so, that's pretty sad. If Hans is being guided up the wall, it would be difficult to even claim an "ascent", let alone a record.... "

You need a clue. Fast simul climbing with minimal pro. Front end, back end, either way no one better start taking any falls.

Hans guided? LOL.
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Jun 30, 2008 - 12:14am PT
andanother... you have no idea of what you speak.. you should take a few moments to read the reports of the climbs they have done in the past few days. You dont understand the system. Dont be sad, except for not knowing anything about what is going on.
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