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dolomite_said
climber
the real
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:22am PT
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best 'o luck to them . uh . . has the nose seen 2 laps in one day ? that might be another way to channel thier energy .
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:31am PT
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Stop being jealous, I think it is wonderful. Now how many people can work together well enough to create speed records?
What they are doing is a testament of the power and beauty of brotherhood.
I am really happy for them.
AF
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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I saw Hans Through El Cap Pics Lens 2 weeks ago (practicing) and to see him cruising through those pitches is unbelievable, an honest human achievement. If your Knott Krancking the nose in sub 20 ( I'd be there for days,,,)hours, and haven't done the route you have no idea. His attempt makes the olympics look like a dog and pony show.
Good Luck Hans........
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:13am PT
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Well you know I have been waiting since my big send of the Nose back in 01. Yep yep, on my third night out after being passed my dean and timmy I was stratagizing my return for the record. So uuhhhh Ill just let Hans and Yuji have their fun till I feel good and ready to crush all. I mean you know the nose doesn't get hard untill you uh start doing it in like under three days. I uh might have to ditch the haul bag, beer, sh#t bag, food, water, rope, harness, you know extras. AHHHH it's good to be sick.
I think it's in the space between how much I suck as a climber and where I would love to go with it that still makes the sport exciting. NIAD rock on
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:14am PT
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Come and watch and you won't think it is so meaningless...
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:17am PT
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I'm with Clustiere on this one folks... After Hauling 3 trips of gear 50+ lbs each to the base of the column all I had left in me was to watch the 140 lbers cruise through Astroman starting after 2 to avoid the sun....... Reality is a harsh bed-mate.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:24am PT
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I received this email two days ago from one of the current Nose speed record holders:
Re: Uh-oh, Hans and Yuji are in town!!!
From: Alexander Huber (alexander@huberbuam.de)
Sent: June 24, 2008 5:31:18 AM
To: 'Peter Zabrok' (passthepitonspete@hotmail.com)
Hello Pete!
So, the race is going on… I am sure the guys will soon have the new record!
Greetings to the Valley and all the monkeys,
Alexander
Of course it's meaningless, it's all in good fun, guys. We are, after all, Conquistadors of the Useless. We miss you Alex and Thomas. Good luck to Hans and Yuji!
Cheers,
Pete
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:24am PT
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good luck Hans
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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Do it up Hans!
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Gene
climber
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:33am PT
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I had a great morning drinking Bloody Mary's in the meadow with climbers from the Czech Republic when Tomas and Alexander set the current record. It was flat out fun watching those guys scream up the climb. It was also scary in a few places seeing the huge run outs. Especially near the top. The way they handled the King Swing was a thing of beauty.
Of course the record is meaningless. So much the better. As long as no one gets hurt, it's all fun and games. And pretty damn amazing.
Edit: Didn't mean to plagarize PTPP's post.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:36am PT
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It' just astounding to do the Nose in those times and pretty interesting that these records are being set by guys who are near or over 40. I'm feeling the shame as my excuses for aches and pains seems contrived in the face of it
peace
karl
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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Climbing the Nose in under 3 hours? Its impossible. It is not something in the realm of human capability.
But its done.
Interesting article. It was a local paper so I think the Hubers got some unnecessary smearing, but overall it was a good representation of the realities of the climb.
I have yet to finish a climb and have any "meaning" attached to it.
I hope Yuji and Hans break the record. I also hope that I will be in the valley when the Hubers or Potter/Oneill come back and break it again :D
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 26, 2008 - 07:08am PT
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Not something I aspire to, but it's cool that Hans and others are into it.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jun 26, 2008 - 07:58am PT
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ghey.....
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jun 26, 2008 - 09:54am PT
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FTA: Free climbing means clambering up rocks on one's own, with ropes and anchoring devices only for protection against falls.
They are attempting a free speed record, then?
Seriously, Go America! Japan too.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Jun 26, 2008 - 09:57am PT
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Here's a poetic distillation from the article: "Free climbing means clambering up rocks on one's own."
Good luck to Hans and Yuji
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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Good luck Hans and Yuji! I can't wait to see how it goes.
Signed,
One who does nothing with meaning
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Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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I'm inspired
Good luck
Be Safe
Cheers
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:24am PT
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It's absolutely, totally meaningless, just like every other sport. But, it's dang fun and cool!
Go Hans and Yuji!
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:29am PT
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They are probably cruising past Camp VI right now. Time today 3:11. Time Sunday 2:42
If having fun and challenging yourself is meaningless, what is life about?
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:30am PT
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What a c*#k swinging match...Whothef*#kcares.
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:32am PT
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Signed,
One who does nothing with meaning
Don't let great things make you feel that way. Every breath you take has great meaning and furthermore these feats are so great that as humans we all share a little bit in the accomplishment.
Good Luck Hans and Yuji!
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Well, in the grand scheme of things pretty much all climbing is meaningless, unless you are doing some sort of notable climb that allows you to raise money for a worthy charity.
Beyond that, it's all just having fun. There's not really any reason why this is any more silly than doing the Reticent vs. doing the Nose vs. hiking to the top.
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:44am PT
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In the grand scheme yes I guess so. But personally .... some of this stuff carries weight amongst us all and (to my eyes) seems to be enough to create some solidarity amongst us (the climbing community in general)
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Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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Im with Karl. I hit 40 on Monday. It still takes me three hours to sh&t, shower and shave...amd thats if I do the last two the night before. I hope Hans kicks it old school. Numbers are a big part of climbing, whether it be days, gallons of water, number of biners, size of cams...its all relative.
Signed,
Slow and Forever
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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How much do they get?
There is a prize, right?
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Doug Hemken
climber
Madison, WI
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Nice coverage.
Great partnership. They're obviously having a blast. And I'm rooting for them on the record, kinda like I was rooting for Rocco to beat Tiger.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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It's just climbing... That's the beauty of it!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
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I hope Hans and Yuji take back the record big time! Then the "Uber Brothers" will be forced to beat their chests and sport even more stylish sunglasses on their next attempt - hopefully without all the film crews, fixed ropes and gear stashes that adversely impact the regular folks who are just trying to get up the Nose.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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I'm pretty good with a 20-30 minute per pitch pace for trad climbing. 6 pitches more or less in 3 hours.....
Prod.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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Brenda said that Alex told her in no uncertain terms that they would not be back to try again should Yuji and Hans beat them, which is what the Hubers would like to see happen anyway.
But you never know, eh?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 26, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
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I hope they come back, love those guys. I don't care, though, if they speed climb the Nose.
Good luck to Yuji and Hans!
~~
It's just climbing... That's the beauty of it!
When I started climbing, I'd look at my rack of hexes and stoppers, my EBs. I knew full well that I had the same gear that the top climbers were using to send their masterpieces. It is just climbing, us and the stone--no trick tools get us where we go...
Nice Jay, that is the beauty.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jun 26, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Awesome,
Great climbs, and great climbers achievements are truly inspirational.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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"Solidarity" in the climbing community?
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FetBro
climber
Bay Area
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Jun 26, 2008 - 02:23pm PT
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Hans is one of the best "sports" I've ever met. He is always helping others out (including the Huber bros preparing for their record) and I have never, ever heard him speak anything but good stuff about anyone. I wish him and Yuji the best and I'm stoked they are back at it again. Go Hollywood, go!
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 26, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
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"Florine holds the record of 11 hours and 50 minutes."
Huh?! I thought it was less than that...
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Jun 26, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
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^^ That's the solo record.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
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to the OP-
the record can be meaningless to you, who the f*#k cares?
the record can be meaningful to someone else, who the f*#k cares?
hans does not comment negatively upon YOUR motivations or interests, climbing or otherwise. why do you feel compelled to do so about his motivations or interests?
frankly, i think it reflects poorly upon YOU-
but of course, i notice that you fail to post under your real name, so you are just a nameless, faceless hater/detractor.
lots of guys run a sub 2:20 marathon
lots of guys run a sub 4 minute mile
lots of guys run a sub 10 second 100m
don't you think the guy with the record likes to be the fastest?
when someone else goes faster than their record, don't you think they get motivated to get "their record" back?
i think it's just human nature to be competitive, if you want to be non-competitive when you climb, feel free, but hans is not the only climber who does not separate those things.
if you want to hate on someone, john yoo (mr. torture memo) is testifying befor congress today, that'd be my suggestion.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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Sort of like the evolution of computers in chess to the point where they now beat the best human players, it is both proud and sad at the same time to see the honing down of the exact measure and limit of human capabilities against some objective measure. All the other 'sporting' venues have human limits pegged down to mere seconds, or fractions thereof; I suppose climbing is simply behind the times and still operating up in the minutes territory.
Good on them, though, what a game to play! Clearly they've 'smelled the roses' on the Nose enough to make that sensorial trade-off worth it. Can't imagine getting into that headspace myself, but best of luck to them.
[Ditto on hating on Yoo - history will judge him as a fascile corruptor of our Constitution...]
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
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Mike - I've hung out with Hans, stayed at his place in Wowona, he's stayed at my place, I did some work for his speed book. He's a great guy, always energetic, always encouraging, always upbeat. How can that be bad?
I think he just gets a load of crap from some people for the some of the same reasons Steph gets slagged.
Arguing that "speed climbing" is stupid is a lot like busting on people for taping or pulling on gear. Doesn't hurt anyone or change the route, so who cares what other folks do to get their jollies? That's the good thing about climbing... it can be so many things to so many people. You can get what you want out of it.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
concord, california
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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I see Hans at the Touchstone Concord gym almost every week. He teaches a training class for climbers aspiring to do the Nose. In fact he was there 2 nights ago. He always seems upbeat & friendly.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 26, 2008 - 04:42pm PT
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Hans is as nice and encouraging a person as you could ever meet. I'm not into the speed thing, except to avoid a bivvy, but it works for him. WTF?
I wish him luck! I bought today's chronicle.
Jay-DNB5hourscartocar,48marathonsandultraswithneveraspeedclose to2:20,buthappyasapiginshitaboutitregardless-bro
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jun 26, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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And certainly his partner, Yuji, has little to prove to anyone, as his accomplishments pretty much go across the spectrum in rock climbing.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Jun 26, 2008 - 05:05pm PT
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"Hans is as nice and encouraging a person as you could ever meet." plus generous, and always interested in helping others enjoy things.
It seems less than 10% of people are negative about Hans though and that's ok, because some controversy makes things more intersting and helps gets the message out.
I think a lot of the knee jerk reaction to speed is it's about beating other people. While that's not what it's about. If you are faster you can do more, the more you do the more you can enjoy. e.g. you could do 1 multipitch climb in a day. Or you could be efficient (not rushing, just moving purposefully and not wasting time) and do 3 multipitch climbs that day or a climb 3 times as long. Plus there is the benefit of having goals to strive for, having goals makes life much better.
Some Hans' quotes:
Pushing for speed puts a task under the microscope. This allows you to see the best way to do that task.
Being aware of time is the first step to using it more wisely.
Go fast, enjoy more.
Check out these tips:
http://speedispower.com/tips/
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 27, 2008 - 12:59am PT
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Hans's style isn't my style but I love the guy. If you know him more than just from a distance, you immediately see how he takes his embrace of "competition" and turns it into a way to support everybody else just as strongly as he supports himself. He's an inspiration.
And man, in a sport where guys climb 5.15, do one finger pull-ups without end, and other amazing stuff, like that a couple of 40ish guys can go kick it up El Cap light years faster than even the fast 20 year olds, that's proud!
peace
karl
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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What you said Karl!
Hans is motivating and inspiring, and he's an amazing athlete. I wish them the best on the record attempt.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 27, 2008 - 03:00am PT
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The SF Chronicle Link reports that the Huber Brothers reportedly spent $2 million dollars in their last October attempt to get the Nose record. A full-time climber with $2,000,000? Now that is a record we should all aspire to.
Bruce
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 27, 2008 - 10:19am PT
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It was the film crew and movie project
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 27, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
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I agree eKat.
Tell me about a record that isn't "meaningless."
The Book of World Records is full of records, most of them completely meaningless. Some records are interesting, like
the fastest 100 meter dash, or a record season for a football team. But in the end, everything can be said to be meaningless.
Reminds me of the quote: Even matters of life and death aren't.
That said, if there is anything meaningful in life, setting personal goals and achieving them is right up there on the list.
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wombat
Trad climber
NY, NY
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Jun 27, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
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let the kids play!
saw the Huber movie last week and was stoked. was good fun to seem them pushing and trying to do something different and cool on the rock. i liked the comment about how speed makes you focus more, like soloing.
On the weekend, ran up a cpl moderates that I know pretty well at a much faster pace than normal. and guess what? It was fun! let the haters put that in their pipes and smoke it!
cheers
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 27, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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So, is there some standard for recording the time on these attempts? When the last record was broken by just three minutes, it seems there could be some contention about how this is done. Do the climbers keep track, or are there witnesses at bottom and top? What happens when the record is beaten by 15 seconds?
Just curious.
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scuffy b
climber
watching the flytrap
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Jun 27, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
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Klinefelter:
When the record is broken by 15 seconds,
much beer will be consumed.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 27, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
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Certified observers on the bottom with atomic chronometers, in Satelite phone contact with the sanctified videografer on the summit whose other job is stretching the finishing line tape across the predetermined, notarized, stopping point, as well as numbered bibs W/GPS for each aspirant, is pretty much the Norm.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jun 27, 2008 - 07:54pm PT
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I really enjoy Hans contribution to the sport.
I admire anyone who climbs but have to say
that if it were I?
I'd go for, like tons of stuff and camp
anywhere I wanted. Watch day craggers race
by - clock out early on a ledge - crack an
oldE and, smoke a bong load and toast Walt.
haha!
Han's rips, IMO.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jun 27, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
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It's interesting when you look back at the first NIAD, and then the time being reduced shorter and shorter over the years, how most of the folks achieving those ascents were some of the nicest climbers around. It also seems like each time the record gets proken, the previous record holders are really jazzed for the folks that did it faster.
I'd hate to see some formalized rules about timing, as these records are unoficial.
To those that have never strived to move quickly over stone, or taken a minmalist approach, you're missing out. Next time your running laps on your favorite route, see how fast you can do it. Getting up a 30' tr problem in say under 10 seconds is pretty fun once you have the moves wired.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 27, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
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I have really enjoyed, somtimes felt empowered even, by doing stuff fast (for me, anyway) ; Steck Salathe camp to camp in 8hrs(didn't take a watch when I soloed it) DNB in 5, the man in under 8 c4 to c4 on bikes, Keeler in 17 CTC, other sh#t too. But really, I'm kinda with Raydog on this one, I and I be with him on one of those big ledges, witnessing this history goin' down, Mon.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 27, 2008 - 08:38pm PT
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The method for "timing" is pretty simple really. It's mainly based on good faith, for one. It's not the olympics, folks, and I loathe the day that anything "climbing" is treated as such.
Start the clock as you leave the ground, clock stops when you reach the tree. Simple. It's the method all have used.
Funny how Alex and Thomas' filming and budget, etc. are being blown way out of proportion. The money was for the film and all that it included, the crew, equipment, rigging, etc. Alex and Thomas are the nicest, most humble guys anyone could hope to meet. It's refreshing to be sitting with them in the meadow or the bar and see how genuinely interested/psyched they are in other people's projects/progress, as they approach them.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2008 - 08:54pm PT
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As John Salathe famously said of the Steck-Salathe, when informed that someone had climbed it in only a few hours, they hadn't climbed the "same route". It's an interesting thought experiment - if all Nose speed climbers used only hexes, stopper, EBs etc (a la Bridwell, Long and Westbay), and used the same tactics, what would happen? Heaven forbid that climbing be so formal and rules-oriented, but it is something to think about.
I always hope that people doing these things are having fun, and would do exactly the same if no one was watching, or even knew what they were doing.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jun 27, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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My understanding is that Yuji is doing most, if not all, the climbing. Hans is doing plenty of climbing too, but some jugging, going by Toms El Cap Report 06/26. It really doesn't matter to me of the ethics of this event. I can sit back an admire both teams, Thomas/Alex, Yuji/Hans.. It's all great climbing. It pushes the sport forward a notch.
Proud to be associated with this activity. I can't think of many other sports/activities that provide the thrill that this one does.
Who's gonna be there Sunday? Whoever is, I'll see you there! Bright and early.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jun 27, 2008 - 09:01pm PT
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Nobody can climb the same climb twice. Who cares about different parties' climbs on the same bit of rock! Unless it's fun, and motivates those involved to 'pull harder' and do something in a just little bit cooler way than they might have, wihtout the comparisons?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jun 29, 2008 - 07:21pm PT
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So how did they do today?
This is second to the Germany/Spain Euro match for me.
On a side-note, the "Hollywood Hans" thing, please please please let that nickname die a quick death. For people like me who work, shop, drive, exist in the real Hollywood, it's insulting. REALLY f$cking insulting. Cause Hollywood life is NOTHING like the awesome Yosemite West lifestyle he has and having Yosemite/Tuolumne outside your driveway. He's livin' the dream and more power to him.
HOLLYWOOD life is 5 hours away and not nearly as pretty. Hans, take on a new moniker cause the transgender hookers have moved from Western and Santa Monica all the way to Highland and Santa Monica. It ain't pretty. They cleaned up Hollywood Blvd for the tourists but there's always the wonderfully dirty underbelly. You deserve a nickname better than what this town has to offer. :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 29, 2008 - 07:52pm PT
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posted on the other thread...
they had a good climb and got down safely before noon. I was at the bridge when they came by... I'll let Tom fill in all the details as I was off looking to climb something and decided it was too hot for that project, climbed a little thing and then left for hom.
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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Jun 30, 2008 - 07:21pm PT
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>>My understanding is that Yuji is doing most, if not all, the climbing.
I think you mean leading? Well, as they do it, the Nose is only a one-pitch climb after all, so yes, Yuji leads the first pitch and Hans follows it ;-).
But I don't think you don't understand how speed ascents and simul-climbing work. Hans actually jugs only a tiny portion of the route and simuls most of it.
They are both playing to their strengths. True, Hans can't do what Yuji does (onsight 5.14b on his best day), but Yuji can't do want Hans does (climb fast while keeping track of 17 things).
Yuji said there is nobody else he could do the record with, because Hans is literally the only one he trusts to
1. Keep things moving fast while at the same time
2. Keep things safe.
That lets Yuji think about blasting up while letting Hans worry about ropes, belays, etc etc., all while climbing the Nose in under three hours.
When simul-climbing, the second absolutely, positively should not fall, so Hans aids or jugs a lot more than he would if he were leading and Yuji takes more risk than he would if he were seconding. It's sort of backwards from climbing when pitching everything out.
I've climbed with Hans a little bit on some easy climbs. When we went up the East Buttress of Middle, I led most of the way. Trust me, it wasn't because Hans can't lead those desperate 5.7s, it was that I can't manage 100 feet of slack, around obstacles while climbing, cleaning and belaying and keeping up with a partner who's not stopping to let you sort that stuff out. I was trying to watch to see why things never got snagged up, but I still don't know how he does it even after climbing with him.
I think it's one of the cool things about their partnership - they are both so amazing at one thing, but not the other. Two Yujis or two Hans would be much slower than one Yuji and one Hans. I think that's a really cool partnership to watch.
To me, speedclimbing is a "modern" pursuit, like sport climbing and competition climbing, but unlike those two, it harkens back to climbing of yore because it's the team that matters. The reason that Hans and Yuji have a different strategy from the Hubers is that they have a different team. And yet both of those teams work so well together. Again, take either of the Hubers and team him up with Hans or with Yuji and I bet that as a team they would struggle to break three hours. And yet two Hubers together or Hans and Yuji together and it's just awesome.
>> the awesome Yosemite West lifestyle
Sadly, Hans lives in Lafayette, California and works a full-time job in the city. As I understand it (could be wrong), he got his nickname waaayyy before he was famous simply because he lived in Hollywood at the time. Since he hasn't lost it in 20 years or so since he left Hollywood, I don't expect he'll lose it soon. It just has too nice a ring to it for people to ever give it up completely.
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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Jun 30, 2008 - 07:36pm PT
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>Certified observers on the bottom with atomic chronometers,
>in Satelite phone contact with the sanctified videografer
>on the summit whose other job is stretching the finishing
>line tape across the predetermined, notarized, stopping
>point, as well as numbered bibs W/GPS for each aspirant,
>is pretty much the Norm.
Do you remember the name of the accounting firm that's certifying the results this time? It always slips my mind.
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scuffy b
climber
watching the flytrap
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Jun 30, 2008 - 08:39pm PT
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How can Hans jug without pulling Yuji off?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jun 30, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
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One would assume Yuji reaches an anchor, pulls up slack, fixes the line, Hans jugs while Yuji starts climbing above the anchor. When Hans reaches the anchor, he unties from the anchor and either puts Yuji on belay, or continues simul-climbing.
In addition to the speed of the actual climbing, having a partner that one is so in tune with that you can do this sort of rope work with minimal commands and both being aware of exactly what is going on is really impressive.
The detractors haven't a friggin clue, and are just the wee bit jelous.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 30, 2008 - 09:09pm PT
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These guys (Hubers, Hans and Yuji) are way above the rest of the field in this specific discipline and I believe that they are each others greatest chearleaders. Let them have fun with their competition within this specific form of climbing. Having watched one of their speed runs of 3:30 I can tell you that what they do is indeed very impressive even if you don't believe in this sort of climbing.
Cheers,
Doug
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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Jun 30, 2008 - 09:33pm PT
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In addition to short fixing, in a couple of places, Yuji puts a Rocker on a solid bolt so that Hans can free climb or jug without having to worry about pulling Yuji off.
If I'm not mistaken, on the Huber's Zodiac ascent, I think there was one spot where one of them pendulumed off the other who was just wedged in and holding on for all he was worth. I might have that wrong, but I seem to remember something crazy like that.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jun 30, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
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i pay my highest respects to alex, thomas, hans, and yuji for their daredevil acts on el cap. freaking entertaining stuff, they are badass in my book.
i've seen hans dissed for not leading anything, but logistically, as tom says, yuji is not that great with the jumars and is a far better leader than follower, while hans is the best bottom feeder in the business, able to feed slack to a speeding yuji while hanging off a 5.9 handjam. try it sometime, it ain't that easy.
good luck to the boys on their wednesday effort. shipoopoi
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jun 30, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
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I can't help but think that a 39 yr old and a 44 year old can't be beat by some 26 year old fast climber. If someone knew Hans' tricks, a younger party could do this thing in under 2 hours.
that being said, I like aid on virgin rock (loose) and don't care about speed. I just hate falling and drilling holes.
...have fun you guys.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jun 30, 2008 - 10:18pm PT
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I don't know that a 20 something crew could master the rope handling skills. Making something look smooth and effortless often takes decades of practice.
There is so much more involved in pulling off such a climb then the technical moves on the rock. And some things can only be learned via doing and developing the skills.
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Betelnut
Mountain climber
No. California
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Jun 30, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
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I think they could have climbed faster with their shirts off.
Nice try Hans & Yuri!
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Svennordic
Social climber
Seattle Washington
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Jun 30, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
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Seems like a beautiful climb. Why the rush? If you have it that dialed, go find yourself a harder route.
Sven
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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re: "If someone knew Hans' tricks"
hans' tricks aren't a secret-
he'll tell, or show, anyone who asks!
...perhaps what you meant was, "if someone had hans' skills..."
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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>>If someone knew Hans' tricks, a younger party could do this thing in under 2 hours
So before people keep slamming rick_d...
Yuji said thinks that the Nose record will go under two hours, and possibly before not too long.
Hans will show his tricks to anyone, so it is true that they aren't secrets, but it's one thing to know *what* they are (everyone knows that, even me) and another to know *how* to copy them. Theory versus execution.
I think rick_d is right. If a couple of really strong, really fit young bucks put the time in to really learn Hans and Yuji's system/tricks, they'll drop the time under two hours.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Wish to Hans and Yuji luck tomorrow. I did see them on Sunday - it was very impressive. I did not understand watching them how Yuji belay himself after short-fixing. Did he use self belay device, or just free soloing intil Hans finish juggung ant take him on belay?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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that's not free soloing pal
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Alexey,
I'm not exactly sure but most likely Yuji wasn't self belaying with a belay device. He was probly just climbing with a mega loop of slack. Big whip if he fell, but he doesn't...
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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Hans' most trick techniques are mostly given pitch-by-pitch in his book (should be on Amazon). It's putting them into action in 2:43 that's tricky ;-)
Also, there was huge video coverage today. Kosuke Abe was shooting from the top, Eric Perlman (of Masters of Stone fame) and Ivo were shooting from the midpoint (around Boot to Great Roof).
I'd bet that the craziest stuff will be in the Masters of Stone VI
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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One of Hans's "tricks" some may not be aware of is his intense training.
If you can, come by his fitness for climbing class Tuesday nights at Diablo Rock Gym in Concord. I haven't attended since before my achilles tear, but expect to again.
When he's training for a nose record, he'll invite class attendees to join him on some of his early morning workouts. He'll keep moving for about the time it takes him to climb the nose, alternating between routes, bouldering problems, and various exercises, all of which get scored on a worksheet he created.
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TomLambert
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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>> One of Hans's "tricks" some may not be aware of is his intense training.
Cheater!!!
If you start allowing people to train, there's no knowing where the record might go!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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congratulations on being the thread the NYTimes referred to in today's paper...
Speed competitions remain a fringe activity in the clubby world of rock climbing, and they are not welcome by everyone. Some traditionalists say climbing is an opportunity to be one with nature, more lifestyle than sport, and see competitions as little more than a sideshow. A discussion of Florine’s and Hirayama’s quest in an online forum on the Web site Supertopo.com described it as “yet another meaningless record.”
“Seems like a beautiful climb” a climber named Sven wrote. “Why the rush?”
and SuperTopo was linked in the online article...
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