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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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Are there any SECOND ascents left on the Captain?
If I am not mistaken the only one I can readily identify is the oft maligned WOS, but are there others?
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Gene
climber
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Jun 25, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
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Nightmare on California Street?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 26, 2008 - 12:32am PT
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Nightmare for sure. Almost certainly The Real Nose. Mediterraneo? Highway to Hell - which I thought was an A0 bathook ladder, but looks upon closer inspection to have some scary-ass natural hooking. Wanker-nuts' Martyr's Brigade, Jim Beyer who destroyed anchors on WOEML. Polish guy's route over by Free Blast, etc. [Sorry for brain fart, lots of wine with Doug tonight] Continental Drift. Every Man For Himself, perhaps. I don't have my Clay Wadman poster here.
Nightmare has a Real Live Death Pitch off the deck. Have fun!
Wings of Steel is completely re-equipped by me and Tom on the first two [crux] pitches, so there are no further excuses - somebody go and lead them, please. [I can't, too hard!]
More will come to me....
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:03am PT
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I thought real nose got a repeat. I knew SG did some really bold climbing but the second ascent had screwed that up somehow.
false shield
turning point
--I hope no one produces a topo of either so they will be true adventure. I only asked SG about overall rating and mandatory free climbing. He added that all bolts were 3/8" and to have fun. head out from the 1/2 dollar and up....there were a couple free pitches off the nose if you needed to wander out there.
Cole had said Steve took a pretty casual approach even reading on his ledge for one day...they were climbing the routes at the same time...SG got the small corners next to the Muir dihedrals.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:45am PT
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man. Don't read supertopo before going to bed.
@_@
nightmarish.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 26, 2008 - 02:24am PT
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Duh! And of course Dave Turner's routes. I don't think I'm tall enough....
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:34am PT
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Wings of Steel is the real no repeat route. Too hard for anybody in the last 25 years.
The crux is not drilling/enhancing anything. Even if you rip off an existing tiny edge and whip and then go back up, you can't drill or enhance the move.
If you do, you've ruined the original route. You've faked your way up. You modified the FA team's line for the worse. You've perverted the entire reason a line like WOS was done in the first place.
For many have been called, but none have been chosen.
 Ascentians 223:04
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:42am PT
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Here's a long list of semi-obscure El Cap routes, several of which have probably been repeated:
766. Allied Forces 5.9 A3, crosses Mirage high, Ob, AAJ2000
777. Winds of Change 5.10 A5, 20p, B
778. Wings of Steel 5.10+ A4, 21p, MR
782. Murcia costa calida 5.10 A4, VI, AAJ2001, 44 (54?) days, 350 kilos hauled, sponsored, desnivel.es
783. Ave, VI, 27 days, loc.?, desnivel.es
785. Cosmos Direct Finish, Ob
794. Quo Vadis 5.9 A4/A4+, VI, 16p new, near Muir & Dorn, AAJ2003
797. preMuir 5.13?, 33?p, free variations of Muir/Shaft
809. False Shield 5.10c A4+, VI, MR
811. Turning Point (2) 5.11c A4+, VI, MR
815. Central Scrutinizer 5.11c A4+, U
816. Real Nose 5.10 A4, 26p, MR
824. Martyr's Brigade 5.11 A5c R, betw. Reticent & Space, AAJ2003
830. Block Party 5.9 A4+, parts of Tempest and PO Wall, AAJ2006, rc.com
831. Atlantis A4+, next to Space/Tempest, 70% new, 70 new holes, rc.com
832. Every Man for Himself 5.8 A3, Ob, AAJ2000, starts R of Gollum, weaves PO+NA
835. Ring of Fire A5, SB
838. Nightmare on California Street 5.10 A4+, betw. SoD&WSR, 65m rope, AAJ1999
841. Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys 5.9 A5, start 10m R of WSP/CD, near NJT/AOW, Ob, AAJ1999
842. Continental Drift 5.10 A4, 15p, betw. NJT & Heartland, Ob, AAJ1998
847. Highway to Hell 5.9 A5, R of Iron Hawk, 7 new pitches to AOW p11, AAJ1999
850. Golden Blade var., 3p, connects Aurora - Native Son, L of Golden Finger, Ob
855. Ned's Excellent Adventure A4, 9p variations to Lost in America, Ob, AAJ1999
858. Abstract Expressionist 5.9 A5, 8p, R of ZM, joins ZM, AAJ1994
860. Jose Memorial Variation 5.7 A3+, links ShortestS-SG-Zodiac, AAJ2004
864. Slacker's Toil 5.9 A4, 4.25p var. to SurgG/LE, AAJ2002
870. The Prophet 5.13b, E8 6c, 5p, EagWay p1, BttB to top of p6, AAJ2002
878. Dark Star (2) 5.10 A5, 10p, between Chinese Water Torture & East Buttress, AAJ2000
879. Welcome to Afghanistan A4/A5, 10p, far R side, AAJ2002
880. Snake, MR
882. El Cap Girdle Traverse 5.10 A4, 75p, EB to Thanksgiving, Ob, AAJ1999
884. Eura Mura, MR
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Nov 29, 2018 - 09:21am PT
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jeff perrin and I did the cosmos direct finish in 93
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Nov 29, 2018 - 05:12pm PT
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Chris that is the most interesting topo I've seen in a while.
S...
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Nov 29, 2018 - 05:36pm PT
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^ tick list for the next Yosemite hardman hero. Aid climbing is set to make a big comeback, just wait and see.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Nov 30, 2018 - 06:54am PT
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Alex Honnolds freesolo.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Ephemeron (VI 5.10 A4) Brandon Adams and Kristoffer Wickstrom, 2018.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The 4th pitch of the El Cap Girdle is 3’ from the ground? HaHaHa!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Ephemeron (VI 5.10 A4) Brandon Adams and Kristoffer Wickstrom, 2018
Is the topo available?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 14, 2019 - 07:50am PT
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That route looks like a pretty sweet find, but there’s no way I could handle being that close to the Nose - probably common for you to see guys doing the entire Nose faster than 1-2 hard aid pitches.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 14, 2019 - 07:54am PT
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Many many years ago we're sitting around at the base of the Captian and Bridwell says every crack will have to be nailed on this thing ......
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SuperTopo on the Web
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