ElCap Report 6/19/08


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Crestline CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2008 - 09:33pm PT
ElCap Report 6/19/08
By Tom Evans

Yo… yes it was warm on the wall today but not THAT warm. The air was sweet until around noon when the west wind brought some of that, thick as mud, air up from the valleys to the west. The action was limited with Ottawa Doug doing some heavy lifting.
The Bridge was, as Bring Me Death Jake said, “Dead.” We had a nice quiet morning and a completely opposite afternoon with endless Tourons passing through. We did have a lot of climbers and ST posters wander in and out throughout the afternoon. All in all it was a pretty good day here. How was it where you live? Oh, you don’t know because you were nose to the grindstone all day working for Uncle Sam most of the time? Ok,we understand. Even a not so great day here is better than a pretty damn good day at work? Right? Right!!
The Report is brought to you today that beautiful Spanish woman from yesterday who reappeared at the bridge in a string thong bathing suit to take a dip in the river. Several of the younger bridge rats had to go into the woods for a “personal moment”…mmm…anyway. Not much to write about but here it is……
Today’s ElCap Report…

Zodiac: The multitudes have assembled at the base of this climb after a period of relative inactivity. The three man team that did the direct start yesterday was back to finish that piss poor pitch up to the anchors at the top of 2. A Korean team lead the real first pitch and fixed a line. A two man team was right behind them fixing past them to the top of two also. So there is going to have to be a pow-wow if trouble is to be avoided.
Jugging to Zodiac

Tribal Rite: Yep, my man, Ottawa Doug, is on the route now after climbing the last three days to get there. He lead a hard pitch early in the afternoon and hoped to do another before nightfall. I talked to him on the radio at 10am and he wanted me to tell his family that he was not going to be able to get the cell phone to work so don’t wait for his calls as they will not be coming. But he said to tell you that he is doing fine and feeling strong and confident. I can vouch for that as he climbs right in front of us all day and we can see his progress. We also have a signal arranged between us if he needs to talk to me on the radio so he doesn’t have to use up the batteries on stand-by. He does have a spare set too. So not to worry ladies (wife and 2 daughters) we have it all under control. Tomorrow I’m going to have him wave to you!
Ottawa Doug hauling in the big air of the Captain
Doug getting into it on Tribal Rite
Doug leading a difficult section on Tribal Rite
Doug lost in the vastness of ElCap

Nose: The Colorado Girls went over the top today around 3:45pm. They climbed the last pitch real fast and hopefully will be down later tonight. Their husbands are going to do a NIAD tomorrow if all goes as planned. Nice climbing Girls! Your free climbing on the route was impressive!
Colorado Girls going to the top of the Nose of ElCap

Lower down the American and German teams left the comfort of camp 5 this morning and headed for the top. I was not there late in the day to see them off the route but they should have done it by now.
The German and American teams climbing out of Camp 5 on the Nose

There are several teams going on the route tomorrow including the NIAD Aussie team, the NIAD Colorado Girls husbands, maybe Steve Schneider and friend too. Also a two man wall style team is fixed to Sickle and told me they are going in the morning.

In other news: I heard that Corbin (Dude 2) and Hayden got a later than desirable start on their “Free push” on the LT today… they will be suffering in the afternoon sun. This according to Dude 1 (Clay) who came by with his delightful girl friend for a quick dip. Ben Cossey left for home this morning with a ton of haulbags and packs. It is a long way home for him!
The Muir team is going back up tomorrow as Mash has arrived to add support and a fresh look at things, plus some cold brews!
Matt, KFC, BMD Jake and I were the regulars hanging today and postponed eating anything until Mara arrived with the goodies… but she was busy with other things and things were looking grim as the hours rolled by. Stomachs were growling, we were succumbing to weakness… fortunately she appeared around 2pm and we were saved!
I didn’t get out west at all as there was just LF to see and the parties from yesterday would be out of sight. Nothing on the Salathe. The weather is great and not too hot so if you are thinking about coming on out then be fast about it as I am nearing the end of my allotted time at the Bridge. I am just hanging around for OD and the Hans thing later in the month. I am doing the show Sat. night at the Lodge but it will be my last one until late Sept.
So that’s the way it is for this the 19th day of June 2008.
Outa here… ECP’s
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jun 19, 2008 - 09:38pm PT

Thanks for the daily update. I look for it every day. The pics and the dialog is priceless and really appreciated.



Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 19, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
thanks for the report

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jun 19, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
Kick Azz, the free climbing Aussies are back for more!!!!

Can't wait!

Thanks Tom
hungry man

Trad climber
Jun 19, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
Jun 19, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
You can pick a climber off a granite peak a mile away, but you can not get a shot of a swimmer below your feet I don't get it.

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 19, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
Dr. Rock.... WORD

Cardiff by the sea
Jun 19, 2008 - 11:00pm PT
Sweet work Ottawa Doug!! That looks like a heads up pitch he did today.

I know how important your daily report is for my girls at home while I am climbing Tom. Sounds like the same for Dougs ladys back in Oh' Canada as well.

I am salivating over this route, it looks Steller!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jun 19, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
Always enjoy the beauty of your photos and the words you post.

So many greys, how can one describe them all ...how many angles, cracks, pillars and flakes are waiting to be touched, climbed and enjoyed... brought into our realm through the description of your lens, the climbers, and their gear on this immense rock. Truly Amazing. lrl
Jordan Ramey

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 19, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
Thanks for the reports. It was cool seeing your talk this last saturday. I especially appreciated the climber gang in the back for added ambiance. I was the stinky guy up front with the OEs who said hi at the end.

Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Jun 19, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
I know that pitch(Ottawa Doug's)...The Black rock weirdness. Kinda Heads up. Awesome spot on the Cap.Right out on the BIG arete....Nice shots, Tom.(now it works, dumb ' puters, anyway.)
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jun 20, 2008 - 03:40am PT
Thanks for the heads up on Doug's frequency, Tom. See you tomorrow, eh?

Trad climber
Jun 20, 2008 - 10:45am PT
Thanks for filling us in!

East Coast US
Jun 20, 2008 - 11:26am PT
How was it where you live? Oh, you don’t know because you were nose to the grindstone all day working for Uncle Sam most of the time? Ok,we understand. Even a not so great day here is better than a pretty damn good day at work? Right? Right!!

Working sucks! The stark realization has hit me that I may not be able to get back onto a Yo wall for quite some time, if ever. I have three kids, one who will start college in six years. I have to work and have little vacation time to spend on a wall trip.

Youth *is* wasted on the young. I'm just happy I spent mine fairly well and glad to see monkeys sending and spending their youth wisely. Keep the reports coming. They keep me happy :)


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