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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2008 - 12:49pm PT
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We recently found out that John Burcham (sp?) recently finished a 7-year project in Sedona - a 10-pitch 5.12a arete. We got what beta we could, which was "bring 1 rope and 16 draws". We also got directions, and last Saturday headed out to do the climb. I was a bit tired from the day before, having just finished a first ascent of a 100-foot 5.11c with 4 seperate cruxes, but we were so psyched to do a long route I sucked it up.
We parked on 89A and hiked up to the obvious prow. The crux is pitch 8, on the wild overhang visible above:
As we were casting about for the start of the climb, David found some "cleaning" tools and got a little silly:
The first indication that maybe the beta wasn't exactly right was a crack above that looked like it needed gear...
Well, we found a chimney to the right of the crack that had a bolt 50 feet up, and David said it "looked like easy climbing to the bolt" (this would be a recurring theme to justify our lack of protection). David leading out the first pitch:
And finally getting to the bolt just below the squeeze chimney section:
I followed, and since I suck at chimneying, I got stuck in the squeeze and had to pull through it. Sigh So much for a clean ascent!
We found the anchors at the top of the chimney, and a nice line of bolts heading upward. Looking up:
David lead the second pitch - cerebral slopey and pocket moves on rippled sandstone.A 5.10 pitch and Classic Sedona!
I took the lead on pitch 3, weighing in at 5.10:
David took the lead on pitch 4, striking out on to the arete and great position. I followed,and when I got to this roof and saw David had basically soloed this flaring bulge, I KNEW we were supposed to bring gear! It was solid 5.11! Notice the fairly useless bolt on the slab below:
I looked at David with newfound respect as he said, "It wasn't that bad..." Shaken by this turn of events, I then took the sharp end, wandered out in several directions with no sign of bolts. Damn, I need some gear!!!
I spotted a line of bolts above me for the next pitch, so knew I was on the right track. I sucked it up (thinking of David's last lead) and lead this munge pitch with one slung sandstone handle in 100 feet (dirty 5.7). Did I mention it was sandy as all hell and I was gripped out of my skull? My foot slipped a little once, and my body coursed with adrenaline. I got to a good ledge, belayed David up, and he took the lead. The next pitch was short, traversing a roof to the very edge of the formation. I followed, looked up and handed David the draws: "It's all yours!"
David leading out pitch 7 on the amazing prow:
When I followed this pitch (another .10) and got to the anchors, I saw the amazing overhanging wall above and we knew this next pitch was the business.
Just one problem: the first bolt was 60 feet up, past another roof that looked solid 10, and 40 feet up a steep diehedral!
"It looks pretty straightforward" David said, and he took off on lead. I watched with trepidation as he soloed up to the first bolt, and turned the corner:
As he disappeared, I heard him yell: "This is the business!"
He lead the pitch with one hang, and I followed up. "He's crazy!" I thought as I pulled the roof into the diehedral and up. Whe I turned the corner, I was amazed at the clean, thin corner above me. Some solid .10 moves petered out into solid .11 layback/jamming culminated by a few 5.12 slab moves, then the corner opened back up into nice jams. I aided through the crux and was stunned by the amazing position.
The final pitch was one of the most exposed pitches I have ever done. The climb goes straight out to a vertical arete, with a wild swing move with 200 feet of air below my feet. The final moves of the 10th pitch were solid 5.10+, and we gained the summit:
The thought that we should have brought a second rope for the rappel was in the front of my mind, but David assured me he had never done a Burcham route that you couldn't get off with one rope. I was unconvinced, and insisted he find the rappel anchors.
Off he goes!
I was relieved when I heard him shout: "I found the rappel route!" and I rapped to the end of the rope on the vertical wall.
David took off again, and shortly thereafter these words drifted up to me: "I am at the end of the rope, and don't see any anchors!" Oh, crap.
"Wait! I found a ledge!" Then the rope went slack as he went off rappel. I followed him down, and saw to my amazement David perched on a 2-foot ledge 15 feet to the right of the line, and 50 feet off a large, sandy ledge. I swung over with the end-of-rope knots at my belay device, and stuck a handjam into the back of the ledge, perched precariously. I took a deep breath, and released one of the knots. I traversed the small ledge, pulling the rope with the remaining knot through the anchors above with each move.
Meanwhile, David had scrambled down a few feet, and found a perfect horn to sling. He took off his 8 mil perlon belt ( noting that his pants were going to fall down now), slung the horn, threw a 'biner on it, and declared it bomber. Things seemed almost surreal as I watched him weight and rap the line, just waiting for the perlon to roll...
It never happened, and I followed to the ledge with great relief.
The rest of the rappels went uneventfully, and soon we were on the ground. I was happy to be alive at that point, and completely knackered.
We later found out the gear notes:
Descent: Rap the route with 2 ropes.
Protection
1 each 0 TCU through #1 Camalot. A couple extra finger size pieces. 15 draws/slings. No wires. Two ropes. Optional #3 Camalot is handy for P6 and P8.
(gear notes edited from MP link)
It's nice having a ropegun! Thanks, David!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Good job you rugged adventurers!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nice job guys. The doc kicks some serious ass!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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wow...quite the adventure indeed, made my hairs raise.
Nice pics too
Thanks for posting up!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Awesome. And great photos. That bit about lots of loose sand provoked a physical response here. Bleck!
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Thats some good stuff right thare!
Prod.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Good job fellas!
Nice post and pix, thanks.
B
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Boltgrl
Ice climber
Winslow, AZ
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You guys are certifiable! Glad you lived to tell the tale! Great post, thanks E!
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L
climber
A place with rocks...lots and lots of rocks...
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Holy Schizell, Mr. E!
Mey hannads ar sweewating jus resaading ths thinggh--cn't tpepey mmno moree. Gglad uur allive!111
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
medicated and flat on my back
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Nice job and thanks for posting up a good TR with some great photos, way to suck it up
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Hey MrE
Great report, and give my respects to that
ropegun! Wow, you guys were smokin'!
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Not alone am I happy you guys survived another one, but I'm more impressed that David is no longer running the Skullit™
Sure is neat to see you exploring Sedona.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
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Good to the see the E-man out crankin harder than ever.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Great TR Erik, sounds like another challenging route John has provided us.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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f*#king a tweety ! Nice work dude ! way to run it out and rationalize it :-) (slap dave upside the melon for me too please...)
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Nice TR, thanks for posting.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
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Thanks for the link, jsj. I'll edit the gear notes.
Erik
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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What a great TR!
thanks,
Zander
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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well, i am stuck between two thoughts-
is doc the kinda partner i wanna have?
or the kinda partner i wanna be?
(obviously both)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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you never know what you can do until you have to do it
nice send you guys!
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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ha! burcham and tatum are light! nice job on a killer looking route
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the flap
climber
Arizona
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nice trip report Erik! talked to Dave about the adventure, pretty crazy! We named the route 'Into The Wild.' Lots of work went into it and I am excited to see what more people think of it! And really excited to see people climbing it. Check out the description Josh posted on mountainproject.com. Super detailed pitch by pitch beta.
Have fun and stay safe!
Chris Tatum
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Way Excellent .....made the rest of my day, thanks for sharing........
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Way to go guys! Erik, I'm impressed by your humility, with pretending to be weak and letting David have all the glory from leading the hard pitches. I guess you were so satisfied with the day before's FA, that you could let him be the star that day.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Bump for the BOLD.
Can you say "diet rack"?
Jeepers.
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Trippel40
Social climber
CO
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Motivating! Great job guys!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jun 10, 2008 - 10:14pm PT
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rugged indeed -
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 10, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
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hmmmm, wason has been making noises about wanting to do that thing, if for no other reason than to get burcham off his case. might have to check it out.
i suspect it'd be a bit less necky with a proper rack?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Bump for an excellent adventure...
Front page needs way more of this stuff.
bvb - tell John that every day you get older,
stuff in Sedona gets harder.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Thats the stuff.Hope to climb with you guys next year in Sedona.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 10:19am PT
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Wow - thanks for the bump. For sure, look us up DC.
Here's a good picture of the route I got the other day:
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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yar!
did I miss the name?
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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phuckinawesome.
edit: not the name, just my reaction to this great tr.
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perswig
climber
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That's some nice looking rock. Great report and pics (and beta - bring a belt).
Thanks for the bump. Dale
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Miss you guys...
{Nice pucker factor.}
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mr. E and THE Doctor....so fun to meet yo at Face Lift. Thanks for taking my money at the Texas Holdum Table. Worth every penny of it. Hey, why go out to a flick and dinner when you can spend time with you great guys ?! You really are .... great dudes. Peace, Lynne
Oops, reason I posted was to say what a great TR this is ...great pics and dialogue and peoples : D
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2009 - 09:35am PT
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Shameless bump.
Lynne - I don't gamble. Wasn't me who took your money.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 11, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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Man, here you were bein' all braggy about not bumpin' yer own stuff. Good job! Join the bumpers club!
Especially if they're great TRs like this.
Good to see it back for another go.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Feb 11, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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That looks like a wild ride! Good thing you had a can of Coppenhagen and a sword, Lancelot..!!!
Now, I am going to have to get out of my computer chair again, Geez,
Thor
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Feb 11, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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nice go, lads. Great TR!
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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Feb 25, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Senor E y El Medico bumpo
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:27pm PT
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I missed this the first time around.
Sounds like a grand adventure!
 Luke
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
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Nice TR! Gotta get that beta right.....eh!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:41pm PT
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missed it myself! See you guys in a couple weeks!
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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Great send fellas, that Doc sure looks and sounds like a he's a bad ass on ballsy leads. Thanks for the write up and pics, looks like awesome rock.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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What cool looking rock, great TR!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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Brutality! First I'm reading of this, excellent TR and excellent bump.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Mar 19, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
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goooood times, thanks for sharing. well written too.
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