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Scott1E
Trad climber
Concord, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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I'm a moderate climber (though my climbing buddies assure me I'm much less) in the Bay Area and search out all the beta I can get my hands on whenever attempting a Valley climb, taking advantage of SuperTopo and the forum. Except for the sparse info in the Falcon Guide, I can't find anything like this for my local rock -- Diablo, Pinnacles, North Bay, Consumnes, etc. Anybody know of any other resources? Been thinking about suggesting a Bay Area Supertopo. Anybody else think it worthwhile?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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May 15, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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This Man knows....Go to the Valley, it's worth the drive.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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May 16, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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There's a pretty detailed guide for Cosumnes :
Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA
William H. Cottrell
El Dorado Publishing, 2003
ISBN 1-891119-04-4
Got mine at Pyramid Peak Outfitters in Placerville: (530) 626-3553. I believe the Folsom REI also carries it.
bayareaclimbers.com has info about the sandstone stuff up on Skyline (peninsula), eg. Castle Rock state park. IMO The slideshows and book reviews are good.
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
PDX, OR
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May 16, 2008 - 12:24am PT
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Alright man, here is the shit:
Surprisingly, Bouldering88 is pretty much spot on...
Here it is in order of proximity/quality
1. Berkeley Rocks- lots of eliminates but has Nat's traverse. Work this and you WILL be strong.
2. Mickey's Beach- Bouldery routes. Good bouldering. Kept me entertained. Plus it's on the beach.
3. Castle Rock- Good bouldering. So, so routes.
4. Table Mountain- 119 miles (exactly!) from Berkeley. This is where you go to climb splitter (basalt! actually it's something else but, whatever...) cracks and chossy, but good sport climbs.
5. Yosemite Valley- No description needed. It's intimidating at first, but just go and do it. You WILL have fun.
6. The rest is just bullsh#t, don't even bother...just go to the gym...seriously.
7. Actually...Putah Creek is good if you are strong. The Sonoma coast has AWESOME bouldering.
8. Mt. St. Helena is good for a day.
9. Tahoe- LOOONG drive for a day trip. Good climbing.
The Bay Area pretty much has good bouldering, and that's about it as far as climbing goes...
edit: Table Mtn. is Latite.
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
PDX, OR
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May 16, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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Not worth it ever? EVER? Maybe if you can't boulder V5...There are a couple (and by a couple I literally mean TWO) classic harder problems there.
Putah is good maybe once or twice. The real shitkicker is Vacaville. I can;t believe I actually dragged myself out there twice!
Now, Ft. Ross...is that one boulder worth the drive? I say yes.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 16, 2008 - 02:14am PT
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There aren't many highly detailed guides to those areas because they are all pretty small.
That said, there are some good climbs scattered here and there.
St. helena has some good stuff.
Vacaville has some good bouldering. It tends to be a bit spread out though. I'm not sure how some people can like putah but not VV, as it's the same kind of rock, vacaville just has 20x as much.
Pinnacles is good in winter, and Sonora has lots of great climbing. Both these areas have guides by Brad Young.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 16, 2008 - 02:36am PT
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what a bunch of old ladies.. we should all be so lucky to live in El Portal or Chamonix
there is a supertopo Bay Area Bouldering
Jim Thornburg did Bay Area Rock, Potlicker Press in 2001
Chris Summit did Wine Country Rocks for bouldering mostly
St Helena has new routes all the time, but you gotta get off the track to find them. They are all 5.10-12 sport routes.
Seriously good bouldering on the Sonoma Coast.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 16, 2008 - 09:39am PT
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Tahoe too far for a day trip? Wish you hadn't told me, Ive been make the 2.25 hour (each way) trip from Berkeley to Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires, Donner (and about the same to Table Mtn/Grotto) at least once a month and far more frequently before my kid came along. Consumnes? Stay in the car for another 30-40 minutes and get up 50 to far better locales?
My strategy - find a local sh*t pile to stay fit on (don't like gyms), drive to Tahoe, etc. often. ST for the Bay Area would simply be a repeat of the Bay Area Climbing book that (sadly) covers it
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 16, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Man I'm glad I started climbing in the Bay Area before I knew how much it sucked. You have no clue how good you have it.
Sounds like the only thing lacking is motivation. You have rock, roads to get to it, guide books, a rich climbing history and plenty of good weather. Not to mention the valley, sierras etc within reach of a long day or a weekend trip.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 16, 2008 - 02:17pm PT
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I don't understand why so many people diss Skyline Blvd and Castle Rock State Park. It definately no Valley or Lover's Leap, but if you live here and can't make it out of town, it's pretty nice.
Nice hike, outdoor well-bolted routes. Beats the gym anyday, and you can drink beer!
Bruce Morris (who posts here) has a good book for the area titled."Rock Climber's Guide to Skyline Blvd"
If you haven't checked out the climbs, I'd highly recommend it.
I can even guide you around some of the better routes. If I'm in town, that's where I'm usually at on weekends. Look for the guy drinking Heineken's in a can (no bottles allowed).
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 16, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
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The problem (or a problem I have) with Castle rock is that for climbing - as opposed to bouldering - so many routes are one move wonders. 60 feet of 5.5 to two feet of 10c, etc. Not to say I haven't really enjoyed bolstering my ego out there from time to time. Also, the setting really can't be beat even if the climbing isn't the quality that 2.5 hours in a car can get you. For me (in Berkeley) its also quite far for what it is......same for the original poster from concord.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 17, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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Anybody climbing up on Skyline today? I'm weak in the partner department again...I should just buy a bouldering pad, I'm thinking.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
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Bay Area climbing will do in a pinch, Castle can be fun in its own way. I always loved Putah when I was in Davis, not so far, good problems, taco truck, interesting rock.
The true answer for Bay Area types, is you have to quit your job and move. The drive to real climbing will limit climbing to one weekend a month, if you are moderately motivated. Very Motivated, maybe twice a month.
I know, there may be stretches where you do more, but over the long hual, nothing beats living close to the crags. It's 9:00 in the morning, I'm writing on Supertopo drinking coffee. I am going to climb splitter brilliance at Cardinal Pinaacle today and I am in no hurry.
That being said, nobody dissed glen canyon or the ever classic Beaver Street wall.
Tom
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
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No one has dissed those yet, you are right!
Let me be the first! I don't like them!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 17, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
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Tom, you suck and I envy you....
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
PDX, OR
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May 17, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
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I'm going to Indian Rock today.
I think Mortar Rock is one of the most underappreciated climbing resources in the entire state.
Zero approach, in the city, in nice park setting, beautiful view. Problems of all grades from V0 to VSharma-hasn't-done-it-yet.
Nat's Traverse. I will never get bored with this thing. I will definitely miss it when I move.
Only drawback is that the place is SHARP!
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yosguns
climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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There's some finger cracks in the retaining walls at Ocean Beach. Went there one night with DRC. Don't need a pad and you're right on the water, in the city. Fun for an evening with some good beer and a six pack of company. ;-) If you go to the cafe for something, you should escape across the street and check it out.
Drive to the Valley's not THAT bad, is it? Admittedly, the first time I made the drive alone was only a couple weeks ago and have just about proved the tom woods 1-2 times/month ratio since February. Pinnacles are fun, but doesn't change the fact that gas prices suck, they're not in the Bay, and the tom woods ratio STILL applies.
Bottom line: more motivation OR I'm up to go in on a commune somewhere in like Bootjack, working remotely... Anyone interested??
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 17, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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Allez, you're a fag! I wou;d've climbed with you today...a-hole, Get up earlier and let's do it next time...ass-hat!
Serious...let's do it! I'm goin' tomorrow if you want a piece of this!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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May 17, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
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I have been learning............that bay area rock sucks. The gyms are good tho. Yos is worth the trip and I have gone a few times for a day (it helps me to be motivated for a long route) Table Mtn is good but not bay area, does go for a day trip tho. That said I have not explored too much. Diablo generally sucks but there are three bolted routes that are particularily good, and a few others that are ok. The area in the south park seems like a little more of an adventure I only went out there to rope solo the 2 pitch thing once.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 18, 2008 - 01:56pm PT
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Anybody climbin' today...anybody?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I wouldn't send newcomers or out-of-towners to Telegraph avenue, for a start. Seriously. We'll have grommets from Ohio pointing mom's minivan down Ashby on a Saturday evening.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Yeah, how about links to pictures of each area. Nothing more motivateing than some inspireing pictures to get you out to these less than ideal climbing areas.
.....Seriously.....
When and if you ever decide to do a Bay Area guide. I got all the beta for Pine Canyon (Mt Diablo) W/ detailed topos and route discriptions of all the routes.That includes all the routes in any previous guide and the 15 or so newer routes out there that have never appeared in any guide.
You can have all this beta for the low low price of like...........Uh............Free.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Chris,
You do not mention the Pinnacles any on the page that links points to. Fantastic climbing there. Don't listen to the non-believers.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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it's a bouldering page mud.
the bouldering is not that extensive at Pinnacles. Sides pad management at pinnacles with the PO? eh, don't see it happening.
with that said, there is a circuit both on the east side and on the better west side.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Salamanizer, send em over mang!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Here's a sample of the guide for Pine Canyon.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Kev and I are hitting Castle Rock noonish today....
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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i have had a great time at almost every area in the bay are that i have climbed. i think that those people that diss the climbing in the bay area must not like climbing very much and should probably stay in the gym or at the crags they apparantly love so much like bishop and yosemtie with all the other posers.
not saying that climbing in yosemite or bishop is only for posers its obviuosly some of the best rock climbing in the world and i love it but i also love being able to climb every day if i want without having to drive for hours and camp for days. the rock of the bay area is unique and just as good as any other rock - there just isnt alot of it. places like putah creek have steep powerful problems on roadside basalt or castle rock with its sandpaper slopers or the pacific coast with bouldering on sandy beaches all just a short drive from mi casa - to only climb in the valley or bishop all the time just shows that you dont love climbing as much as me and it makes me think you are a bunch of spoiled, greedy snobs. i love climbing anywhere i feel sorry for you all that dont.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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A life long buddy of mine grew up in the City and always became really angry when he heard people discuss the Bay Area as some form of climbing destination.
He's climbed just about everything and everywhere in the City and surrounding environs an infinite number of times. Heck, I've visited most of them with him and have to agree with boulderer88. Some of worth a single visit. Those who are desparate or have short memories might enjoy a second, but there's not too much beyond that. That's not to say you can't stay in shape or keep your tips calloused, but it's going to feel really repetitive.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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very nice sala
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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I have to agree somewhat with the drunkenmaster. You don't just drive to Yosemite at the drop of a hat. Within an hour of anywhere in the bay area there is enough rock for a day, half day, or even a few quick burns at a local crag. Repetitive after a while? Sure. But so is the drive to the Valley. Bay area rock is what it is, nothing more. I'm not going to glamorize it. But I'm not going to just sit on my ass either and only climb in world class areas. If you aren't having fun climbing with friends, even on local choss, you can sit home and play with your wii.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Yep, take today, for example. Me and Kev are bailing on work (half day), running some laps in CSRP and will be home by Miller Time.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Bay Area is not a hot spot for any climbing. But one day trips to the pinns, leap, donner and other locations are all doable.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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I may need a partner today...anybody???
Dr Rock??
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 18, 2008 - 11:15am PT
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Mount Doom today...I'll be there, anybody else wanna go?
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Oct 18, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
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Hey I got tooled by Open Space a few months back.
Was cuttin brush at Eagle Peak.
Really weird how it went down.
I am clearing some leaves off the main trail, and I trundle a softball size boulder down the steep hill by "semi mistake" if you get me, like, darn, didn't mean to push that rock with my foot.
So there i goes, ka thump de dump a bump a slam, for a few minutes.
Next thing I know, some freak with a backpack hikes up the hill in exactly the same spot as the boulder track, I can hear the leaves when he is still 100 yards down the hill, so I stash the chain saw and the D9 and wait for John Denver to make his appearance.
He didn't have any open bleeding sores or anything, so I guess the rock missed him.
So here comes the lone hiker with his back pack, we have a friendly chat, he might have spied something.
Anyway, a half an hour later I am trimming some stuff and another boulder goes down the hill.
Ka thmpity thump ka womp a crack a splat.
Five minutes later, here comes Ranger Rick down the trail:
"Hold it right there!"
As I ws in the middle of trimming a 1/4 inch branch with a two foot antique Swedish hand saw.
So I am going WTF over, how did this guy know I was there?
Anyway, it was the Lone Hiker.
He is a look out for marijuana plants on Open Space and nearby area.
The reason I know is I kayak with the guy that does the exact same thing, only in the East Bay.
They dress up like bird watchers, or hikers, then walk around with a radio in their back pack.
After Ranger #1 show up, Ranger #2, an old blond hag, wanders down the trail and starts telling me how I shouldn't be there because a lot of people go up there to kill themselves, and how she found someone hanging from a tree, sheesh, what a wack job,anyway, probably that circular branch right as you get to Eagle, anyway, here comes Ranger #3 from down below!
They had a frickin perimeter set up to catch me!
My bike was there, so the guy starts listing the four charges, telling me what a deal I am getting with only the Illegal Pruning charge.
The third guy was an ex climber, but he was no help.
Traitor!
Anyway, still waitin for the paperwork.
So if you see a Lone Hiker type that seems a little on the "straight" side when you rap with him, that means the Possy is on it's way as soon as he gets out of hearing range.
Oh, I voluntered for Open Space, you can get on their web site and sign up, so I am going to push a project for a trail improvement.
I want to make it so you can do a loop around the water fall and hit all the peaks on that side without getting all cut up.
We pay property taxes to buy that land, but they act like it's a privelage to be there.
#1 Purpose is Land Preservation.
Well thats great, but not if nobody gets to enjoy it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 18, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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you need better cammo, over.
and quit trundling rocks and giving away your position. Mount Doom kicked ass BTW, loser, you shoulda showed up.
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Oct 19, 2008 - 12:37am PT
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Castle sucks, just ask Kauk, Captain Cos and Sharma. As much as I despised Miles he taught us how to stay out of trouble in the Valley.
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| Messages 1 - 44 of total 44 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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first get the new guidebook by Brad Young
Let us know!