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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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It's been a few years since this trip, so the memory candle has burned down a ways. But, I have to try and learn to post photos!
Let's give it a try...
Special thanks to Tarbuster and Mighty Hiker for getting me the copious help I needed!!
Two of the Cosmic Banditos arrive at San Fran airport: Buggs on the left, Bruce on the right.
After many lost baggage and drinking shenanigans and much road time, we make it off the pavement! Bruce on the left, Keith on the right.
The Needles are filled with so many fantastic forms and colors!
Let's look at a few.
I can see already that I need to learn to size these images....
I'm trying ok?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 29, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
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Nice pics!
must...get...to the needles...looks rad out there
Glad you're figuring how to post pics...
Cheers
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 29, 2008 - 04:46pm PT
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you and me both TKing.
thanks, Survival!
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Apr 29, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
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Nice. Fanny packs worn on the front date this to 198X.
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Apr 29, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
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Bruce,
Beautiful photos! I love the Needles and your pix caught the mystical spirit of the place.
Now where's the TR 'bout all the epics you guys enjoyed???
>>>^..^
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
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OK, Let's see if I got any further on learning this#@&%..
First, the easy, long slab thing up to the lookout??
What's it called?
Carrying packs just to be hardmen...:)
On the lead even! Ok, let's try the size.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
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Yeah! It worked! OK, a couple more from the easy thing.
And Buggs doin' the first day out in the magic on vacation!
Fanny packs worn on the front?? 198x? WRONG!! I am just in my own time/space. It's around 2000? Help Buggs? Buggs is the primary photographer!
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Apr 29, 2008 - 05:56pm PT
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"First, the easy, long slab thing up to the lookout??
What's it called?"
I called it "the trail", but perhaps my pack wasn't as heavy... :-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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I think this is on the second route we did.
Can't remember the name of this either...ahh, the mystery!
These are both pitch one....uh...maybe!
Here's our own Dr. Keith Stevens (Royster) on pitch two.
Also known as Thag Simmons, also known as Voodoo Child!
A really bitchin' bulge on pitch two.
And again.
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matisse
climber
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Apr 29, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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The long easy route to the lookout is Magic Dragon or Black Magic on the Magician the difference being (if I recall correctly) where you start the route down at the toe.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Apr 29, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
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Good job. Thanks for posting.
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Off-Width Loving Crack Whore
Trad climber
SLO
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Apr 29, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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"The long easy route to the lookout is Magic Dragon or Black Magic on the Magician the difference being (if I recall correctly) where you start the route down at the toe."
Yep.. looks like you guys were on the Black Magic (the better of the two IMHO) start
The next photo sequence is of Stars and Stripes on the Sorcerer (starts in the Sorcer Djin notch)
My guess is next you did Spooky?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 07:11pm PT
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Thanks for the help! Too many days have passed....
Buggs gettin' some.
Hey L,
The trail?? I guess you graduated straight to the 12's?
Yeah, we had to break in easy!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 07:32pm PT
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Look at that texture! Is this on Stars and Stripes?
I don't think so..
It's kind of fun going back on this!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 09:50pm PT
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A night on top of the hills above camp got a little "funny" looking. HE did it....no HE did it!
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Apr 29, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
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Yeah for climbing pics! I'm glad you learned how to post 'em. Now are you gonna post some more from other places???
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
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Climbrunride, Yes I do intend to put other routes and areas in here, but it was quite an effort just getting scanning, storing, photobucket and Supertopo/photobucket interface worked out with one set of pictures!! It should go easier in the future, but I have photos scattered so many places. Organization was never my strong suit...:o)
So I have more pictures to fling around in here first!
This is the Cosmic Banditos on top of, The Sorcerer?
ANYONE GOT NEEDLES PIX THEY WANT TO ADD??
HOOK ME UP!!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 12:45am PT
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Which route is this from?
Thag Simmons on the lead. Beautiful spot, but I can't place it.
Damn, I know I was there!
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John Moosie
climber
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Apr 30, 2008 - 12:57am PT
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It looks like you had a heck of a lot of fun. Thanks for posting.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Apr 30, 2008 - 02:06am PT
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What?! No kite shots? Shameful...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 06:43am PT
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BWAAA HA HA HA !!!!!!!
Buggs, ye bastard!! Here ye go laddie..
Voodoo and Buggman hoistin' the mainsail off the top 'o' the good ship Warlock! Arrrrr!
Buggs was tripped out cause he didn't know that I snuck my kite with 600 ft of string up Igor Unchained. The look on his face was worth it all.
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 30, 2008 - 06:49am PT
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Man! Do you climb in those boots?!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 07:18am PT
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Hell yeah man, you wouldn't believe the stuff he does in those things!!
I've seen 'im walk on the moon an' fight demons in 'em.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 08:21am PT
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Speaking of Igor Unchained, I believe that's where this is?
I think these are from the first pitch.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 08:58am PT
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The incredible incomparable indelible invisible
Nurse Ratchet Seizys tryin' to get UNCHAINED!
Lovin' it a little harder!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 11:05am PT
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Thanks Riley,
I think the trees are a little tilty in the background....
Oh well, it looks cool anyway!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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Here's Keith getting some crack, and showing some too!
Color and Form:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 30, 2008 - 11:50am PT
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This looks like the start of the last pitch of Fancy Free, if you belay on top of the pedestal which has the Spooky ow/lieback; you could also finish Spooky this way.
Here's one of my photos, with a nice sunset tone on the Wizard:
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
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Clint,
Wow, that is a seriously cool shot. Thanks.
More please???? :o)
What's this then?
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Off-Width Loving Crack Whore
Trad climber
SLO
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Apr 30, 2008 - 01:48pm PT
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This looks like the start of the last pitch of Fancy Free, if you belay on top of the pedestal which has the Spooky ow/lieback; you could also finish Spooky this way.
yep, beat me to it...
What's this then?
that's about 30-35 feet up the first pitch of Fancy Free
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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OK, Thanks. Fancy Free it is then...you could have told me anything!
Here it is again.
I liked this pitch a lot. Well I think I liked 'em all.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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Form and Color....
And a colorful shot of Buggs forming himself into a rock star....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 12:40am PT
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Keiths turn on Fancy Free.
Buggs was moving around to take photos.
And a party on another route.
Form and Color......
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 12:47am PT
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What a great place, to share with guys I have known for so long. Keith since I was 15, Buggs since I was 21.
Another party. We didn't have to share the place that much.
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Survival,
What is it about that place and these photos that just causes the blood to sing in your veins? I haven't been there in over 5 years, yet I remember being spellbound by the incredible beauty and mystery of these formations you've captured so beautifully. (Spooky, however, scared the bejezzus out of me!)
And some of those pix with climbers in them...simply amazing.
Clint's photo was a shock--that's the first time I was actually able to see the Wizard in that formation. Like an animated still, it just came leaping through.
Thanks for taking the time and effort, B, to share these with us.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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bump, some one's got to have some more from this beautiful place...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 06:35am PT
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L,
There is just something magic about having all those incredible shapes crowded together like that.
And the location / altitude/ moisture that creates all that outrageous yellow!!
I've seen so much granite in different tones of grey, gold, silver, black and white....but man that electric yellow in this place just makes it seem like you're trippin' as soon as you see it!! It has all the shapes and color combinations kind of melting on top of and into each other.
Clint, thanks for the nice additions.
ANYBODY ELSE GOT STUFF FROM THE NEEDLES!?!?
Geez...no wonder it didn't seem crowded.....
What about you L?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 09:04am PT
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Punked out Buggz. The man of many disguises. International man of mystery. Always talking sh*t about his own climbing and cracking black humor in his own language. And yet guiding me in ways he doesn't even realize. He is one of the great compasses in my life, and he rarely points north with any consistency...
And then there is the color deepening when I reflect on the day. The place is a museum of LIGHT!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I agree about the magic of this place!
Atmosphere, connoisseur granite, and that electric green lichen.
Erik and Lou and I used to bust up there from LA on weekends.
Lou would say: "the Needles are more popular than the Beatles!"
Well, not exactly, but they sure are hip.
Erik following the first pitch of Atlantis:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Erik leading the crux of Atlantis, east face of the Sorcerer, with Mike and Mari at the belay:
Mike following the same pitch:
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matisse
climber
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The porter on black magic
a squinty and hungover matisse enjoying the view amidst in a sea of granite higher up
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mike on the first ascent of Duty Now for the Future, lower east face of the Sorcerer:
Mari on the first ascent of Jughead, Sorcerer's Apprentice:
Erik on the second ascent of the Dulldrills, east face of the Magician:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The first ascent of West Side Story,
Mike Lechlinski investigating the section where I popped off and Dave Bruckman belaying:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The West Face of the Magician,
Home to Liquid Sky, straight in view, and West Side Story, out of view to the right:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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East face of the Sorcerer,
Thin Ice, the prominent central line, Atlantis just to its right:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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West face of the Witch Needle,
The Spook Book, more or less in the center:
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Nice photos Tarbuster--that one of Mari is spectacular.
C'mon Survival, if I can do it, so can you.
Get a head-lock on that memory of yours and spill some more commentary on what was happening as you guys ascended the gray and chartreuse rock. You look like you were having a great time!
As for me and photos...well...sad to say, I always take a camera with me.
However, I get so caught up in the beauty and spirit of wherever I am, so possessed by the activity of climbing or snorkeling or biking or running...or just sitting and being part of it...I usually forget to take photos. Seriously, just forget to pop the shot.
Which is why I have such admiration for those of you who do visually document your travels...and do it so eloquently. So please keep the visuals coming!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
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Thanks Tarbuster and matisse!!!
That is so what I was hoping for, people to expand this thread up and out a little.
Holy buckets Roy! First ascent, second ascent, first ascent...
geez...I think I've just been owned! Well done and thank you so much.
L, I'll see if I can stir up a short story worth telling on here! There are a couple that aren't fit for public consumption..peoples reputations and all you know!
Such as the venerable and most esteemed
DR. Voodoo!! Seen here in one of his many acceptable and non-threatening disguises:
Some of us know what lurks below the calm and pleasant demeanor...
Like the time I caught him with that toothless hooker in the back of an Alaskan fishing boat!
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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I remember that...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
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Another of Thag on Fancy Free.
Form and Color...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 02:54pm PT
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Ahh, thank you Buggs. The true voice of authoritah!!
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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can anybody post a Ron Carson on something pic?
like maybe the Titanic?
just wishing.....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Kick a$$ pics by all! I've never been but I've been itchin' to go there for a while.
Leave it to Tar to whip out all the BITD stuff, just plain awesome.
more, I want more!!!
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cm
Trad climber
The City, OK
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man I love the needles, maybe more than the valley. I know if i go back to cali, the needles are a must, the valley is a maybe
White punks on dope
Airy interlude
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 04:59pm PT
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Keith nearing the top of Fancy Free.
Man Buggs, you did a lot of hiking around on that one!!
More spectacular scenery, ho hum.... :o)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 05:01pm PT
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cm, Thanks for the beautiful pictures brother!
Awesome.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks - all very pretty. I've never been there - is it the sort of place one can go and simply meet people to climb with, or is it better to arrive ready to go? It would be an awful long drive down the central valley in midsummer heat, though.
Sow a seed... it looks like the photo posting information worked. A useful thing to have on hand.
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Incredible number of images in this kick-ass thread.
Thanks for the wake-up.
Mari...spectacular...
I assume you mean her leading the buckets thing.
The one that really, really gets me is with E leading
and Mari sitting at the belay. It gets to something
special.
It's the people, man...
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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anyone have any photos of the Don Juan Wall?
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ec
climber
ca
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Oh... Sorry. That was Don Juan scaling a wall...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2008 - 10:42pm PT
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Keith pulling onto the top of Fancy Free.
And the mad crew of Banditos.....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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awww...
the group hug.
I hope you followed it up with a beer!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 12:03am PT
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That...and more!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Gobi,
These people are on Don Juan Wall.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Thank you Clint.
You are a freekin' walking encyclopedia!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 09:09am PT
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Me waving from Fancy Free.
Somebody share me some more Needle photos or a Needle story!!
A brief conversation from "Black Magic".
Keith: This is way easy, and slow. We should unrope and walk up this thing.
Buggs and Bruce: Nah....I don't wanna unrope!
Keith: WTF? It's total runout anyway...
Buggs: Not for me...it's total toprope and bomber.
Keith: This sh*t is too slow, let's unrope and WALK!
Bruce: Not slow enough to unrope.....
Keith: I don't believe you guys,..whatever.
Buggs and Bruce: Thank you for your kind understanding...
There you go L, a story. I'll brew up another :o)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 10:34am PT
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Hey Friend,
Why'd you take your cool picture off?
I guess you didn't like it here.......
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matisse
climber
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We don't take many pics while climbing but here is another one:
near the top of P1 of the howling
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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matisse, how hard is that thing?
You should take more pictures. Someday you'll wish you had.
I have done many walls with no camera, and now that I'm old and can't remember sh8t, I regret it....
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matisse
climber
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Not very hard. P1 is 5.9 ish. P2 is a kind of exciting 10a, and it howls. Kinda cool. let me see if I can find a pic of P2.
edited to add I only have a butt shot of the porter rapping off of the top of P2
heres another of a big cf over on Dome rock on the Tree route, I think taken from the belay at the top of P1 on Arwen.
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nita
climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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Allll Right, Survival posting pictures! Nice job..cool pics,love the form and color, can't wait to see more.
BB,I can see clearly now ;-)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Awesome stuff, Survival. . .
your friend Thag looked like John Lennon in the first pic of
him!!!! You guys on a magical mystery tour, eh?
:-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
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Thanks again matisse. It makes such a difference for other people to add something to my humble offering.
Thank garsh for Tarbuster for layin' down the good stuff!
SteveW, I'm just glad to contribute something besides my yap yap finally!! I have more if I can find, sort.....
Nita, Thanks! I was wondering where you were since you have teased me about photos more than once.
It is soooo good to finally get something found and scanned.
I have loved it.
Now that I have some Needles pix scanned, I'll just put a Needles picture on EVERY thread that requires a contribution.
HA HA HAhahhahaahaha :o)
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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What does 'Duty Now for the Future' mean?
That has always bugged me.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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Clint,
Thank you for the cool contribution!
You have great pix.
Bruce
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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caughtinside,
> What does 'Duty Now for the Future' mean?
google reveals all:
The second album by Devo.
It may have something to do with placing a few bolts for use by later climbers, as well.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Devo!
Thanks to Clint and Google for that.
Na na na na nah! weee wooo Sharpen that bit!
Bolt it!
Bolt it good!
Climb upwards!
Move up rock!
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matisse
climber
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Clint, those shots are great! thanks
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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I really like that sun shot, Matisse. Thanks also for the Tree Route...fond memories of that first climb there.
Hey Survival,
Got any pix of Thin Ice? Got a little funny tale about that route.
The partner I was climbing with was at the belay for the 2nd pitch. First he took off his fleece (it was a warm day) and the updraft took that thing 100 feet in the air and out into the wild blue yonder.
Not one to notice such bizarre occurances...or better yet, not one to connect the dots, he then proceeded to relieve himself in the corner (yes, a foot from the route...I was grossed out and said something about me having to pass that way, which he obviously ignored).
Strangely enough, that very same updraft caught his output and returned it to him...starting at the crotch and ending up his nose. I tried not to laugh, but what are you gonna do when Instant Karma lays down a full house?
And thanks for your story above...now if you could work at fleshing it out a bit...you know: details...we might have something there. ;-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
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L,
Not much more to the story actually, except Buggs and I had been on the couch in Alaska for a couple years, so we were just stretching it out and loosening up a bit. Keith has been known to get just a wee bit impatient at times. (not much) But it just seemed so casual to him. Buggs has an invisible friend that sits on his shoulder, that he calls his Monkey Mind. Well, Monkey Mind is always telling him how far off the deck he is....
Why argue with my Monkey Mind when I've already got this cozy cord here?? I was sympathetic and feeling pretty lightweight, so we had a little chat.
I don't know if anyone with kids here has ever seen the Brave Little Toaster, but that's Buggs other nickname. In the movie, there's a scene where The Brave Little Toaster is hanging on the edge of this cliff with his stubby little black side paws, and his eyeballs start spiraling around in his head!! Always cracked Buggs up. So Buggs tries to avoid a BLT moment while talking to his Monkey Mind!!
There you have it..the tale of the Monkey Mind and The Brave Little Toaster!
The Brave Little Toaster and Survival meditating with the big trees!
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Now that's the sort of juicy tid-bits we want! You were climbing with loonies--much more interesting!
Where in AK were you? I lived in Anchorage from '83 to '93, with periodic returns for filmmaking adventures until around '98.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 05:24pm PT
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I was raised in Venetie, Kotzebue, Nome, Bethel and then moved away for many years. Went back in 90, lived in Anch. and in Eagle River from 95-06. Buggs still lives in E.R. Keith lived up there for a few years too! We're all Alaskans.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Great...now I'm a loonie. Thanks alot Birchell. Heh-heh.
L, if you only knew...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
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Buggs,
What you're p*ssed just 'cause the cat's out of the bag??
I'm gonna really lay it on you now....:o) :o)
:o) :o)
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Ezra
Trad climber
WA, NC
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Thank you all for posting! I have to hit the needles!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Caughtinside asked:
"What does 'Duty Now for the Future' mean?"
Clint responded:
"It may have something to do with placing a few bolts for use by later climbers, as well."
hahahahahahaha. haha. ha.
My oh my, how times have changed.
Emphasis on "a few".
There is a short story here...
Nice thread Survival!
'Nothing quite so magical as friends and climbing in a special place;
Except of course, stuff like a little babie's smile, the sun rising up and going around the earth everyday...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Igor Unchained
The Lifeboat
The Warlock East Face
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Duty Now For The Future (back when I had hair:)
Photos by Greg Epperson, posted with his permission.
Thanks Greg!
edit: The awsome crack in the background is, of course, Davy Jones Locker. The thought of getting back to The Needles soon is making my skin tingle...
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Survival - AKA King Master Loonie AKA Scape AKA Wimpie
Nice thread brother, definitely have to go back. Thanks for the posts ya'll!
ps - Can't find my pics : (
Buggnum Oblivium
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Kris,
Is it just my imagination, or did you bring lyrca into this purest thread?????:-) That Eppi can sure do color.
Buggs,
We don't actually need photos from you...just good blackmailin' sorts of stories about Sir Vival....if you know what I mean.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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L, Actually those were some pants Greg had on hand. Not Lycra. But since you asked...
The Charlatan + lycra
edit: Rob Brown photo credit
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhhhhhh! My eyes! My poor eyes!!! heh-heh-heh!
(Love lycra...no really...especially on guys! Love that stuff.)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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ok L, no lycra here:
Herb Laeger and Rico Miledi on a new route on the N Face Warlock in Aug 2005. Not a great photo but it has histerical, I mean historical value...
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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L,
Thanks, but I'm afraid most of the dirt from that trip is gonna stick to me so I best keep my pie-hole shut on that one.
Maybe I should start a "who's got the dirt on Sir Vival?" thread.
Buggs
Hey Bruce, Where's my lighter? heh-heh
We didn't wear Lycra but we did buy special hawaii style silk shirts for the climbing trip.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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A good thread is like baking a cake,
Quality ingredients, diligent execution of craft, patience, easy on the frosting...
'Sure is nice to see this one rising!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Well, the "frosting" at the Needles is without a doubt their beautiful neighbor, Dome Rock.
Here's a hot little number called Pipe Dream.
Photo by Rob Brown.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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hahahaha.
That Pipe Dream rig is brutal.
I think Erik and I did the FFA of some crack thing there; maybe Asteroid Belt?
Dome rock is pretty darn cool.
It's been so long for me; From Here to Eternity? yata, yata.
What's that wicked left facing Diehedral; I wasn't there when this happened, but there is a great story about Yabo puffing down a bunch of Camel cigarettes and firing that layback on the free solo...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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That would be Tobin's Dihedral. Maybe Rob will post up - I think he has some cool shots of that one...
edit: Vernon's guide has you and E doing that Asteroid Belt in 1979!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes Tobin's Diehedral.
I climbed a bunch of routes there with Erik in 79.
I bet the last time I climbed at Dome Rock was 1980 at the latest.
Haven't been knitting with Needles since 1987.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Trivia question:
What route appears in that cover shot, and what is wrong with the picture?
Free beer to the winner if we ever meet face to face...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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A know what you mean Kris,
Something weird going on there.
Was just looking at that a few minutes ago and if you look at the front and back cover, the rock looks a lot like Airy Interlude.
Maybe it's that stuff down by Pyromania...
(not quite)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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You are sooo close, Roy.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
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Wow, there are some killer additions since I was here last!
ksolem, those pix are such a nice addition. Thanks to all of you who have posted. I was so impressed with that place on many levels, that I knew there had to be some quality product out there!
L, all the brothers with dirt on Sir Vival have been sworn to secrecy and signed lengthy non-disclosure contracts.
But dirt there is.... and a lot of it!
Buggs, thanks for keeping the lid on.
That Guide photo actually makes it look like it's printed upside down!!
Form and color:
I love that little bonsai tree on the cliff.
My 8 year old son Layton just said, "Climbing's actually not dangerous,
unless you have a rope.." HA! I love the way his mind works.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Ding DING!!!
Roy got the route area. And yes, if you flip it over you will see that the thin crack on the left is Ankles Away. On the right is Airy Interlude. I remember when Ron Carson was scoping out the dike there between, but it wouldn't go...
See you guys at The Needles for a brew??
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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I'm in!! Date and time please...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
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Oooo Oooo, can I come too?
Can't believe I got the trivia question..
For some reason it was just the look of the thing.
More pix Ksolem? Are you going to facelift by any chance?
You mentioned rocks and brew in the same thought to Buggs...
Ha! He's on it!!
Tarbuster....I know yer holdin' out some more product!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Well I am.
I have a lot of slides yet to scan.
A year or so ago I was poised to do a massive Needles thread.
And then my slide projector bulb blew out and I need to source one.
I know, excuses, excuses.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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" ...I'm in!! Date and time please... "
Drop me an email. Let's stay in touch. I'll be there quite a bit this summer. At least that is the plan...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
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I just like the weirdness...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2008 - 01:39am PT
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Just a pic of Keith and his best friend when he was a kid.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Y'all be nice to our new buddy Survival, eh? This bein' his first thread and all, and us needin' to be on our best behaviour, whatever that is. We wouldn't want to give the wrong impression or anything, NOW WOULD WE? We gave him a little coachin' maybe, Tarbaby 'n me, but it's a pretty durn good thread.
'Nuff of this magpie chatter 'bout who he really is. Remember (borrowing L's pseudo-naughty-cal persona), loose lips sink ships. :-)
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Dome Rock would be nice today, is the road open?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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What does Anti Jello mean?
James on it.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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What does Anti Jello mean?
James on it.
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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I always thought it was Auntie Jello.
She's third cousin to Jeff Lowe...and a fine climb too!
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vote4pedro
Trad climber
backwoods
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"Antijello Crack"...i always thought it had something to do with yer calves not doin' the Elvis or Sewing Machine leg, but who knows? Such a COOL line...great finish too!
That left variation to the super thin dihedral up to the ledge where it meets the "Tree Route" is so GOOD, but don't forget yer thin gear!!!...wimps exit right on the face!!
"Between Nothingness and Eternity" just left of Tobin's Dihedral...now those are some well-placed bolts!!!
Couple years ago we tried to get into the Needles over Memorial Day and we got shut down by the Forest Service. Dome Rock was fine though. Felt bad for the couple from Mammoth who stashed their gear at the saddle and had to turn around in the dark and go all the way back out there to fetch their cash as soon as they arrived at camp after a good day of climbing.
Thanks to the SSCA and I believe the Access Fund for puttin' a permanent pit toilet out there for us dirtbagz!
Seems like right after memorial day weekend things open up for the prime time Needles climbin'!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2008 - 07:52pm PT
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Hey, hurry up and take the picture,
the wind's tryin' to blow my hat away!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Needles light.
Bring it on you bad Mr. Sun!
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AlexC
climber
Bay Area, CA
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Ren on P1 of Witch Doctor.
Erika on P1 of Stars and Stripes Forever.
Jared on P1 of Thin Ice.
Rebecca on P1 of Thin Ice.
Joy on P1 of Atlantis.
Jared on P4 of Romantic Warrior.
Climber on P3 of Atlantis.
Climbers on P2 of Spooky.
Hristo on P5 of Romantic Warrior.
Hristo on Pyromania.
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ec
climber
ca
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"What does Anti Jello mean?"
The FAist felt it was a 'hard' crack; not soft like Jello.
go figure...
 ec
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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Alex,
AWESOME photos! Incredible! What the heck sort of lens are you using???? Some of the best Thin Ice pix ever, not to mention all the other routes.
And P2 of Spooky (never seen a better photo angle for that thing)...that friggin' OW...I was so scared leading that thing, I tried to get my whole body in there. Almost did, too! Your photo brought it all back to me...think I need to go throw up now...thanks! :-)
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AlexC
climber
Bay Area, CA
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L,
Thanks! Glad you like the pictures.
All were taken with either a Canon 10D or 5D and one of the following Canon lenses: 17-40 f/4L, 24-105 f/4L, 70-200 f/2.8L IS or 300 f/4L.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes that was a nice run Alex, Thanks!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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The McNally Fire...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2008 - 01:34pm PT
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rincon,
talk about some amazing light....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The Needles; golly gee, must be some of the best granite on the planet.
Let's try to keep this on the down low, 'K?
I won't tell anybody if you guys don't, hehehe.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Drew this with pen after the trip from memory. Maybe I should have put it in Sir Vival's Strangeness thread? Just thought it was interesting that I gave the dome an eye...
edit: Damn! It turned out bigger than I told it to on Photobucket. Someone's got to snoop me up on that, dude.
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L
climber
The salty ocean blue and deep
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I see lots of faces in that thing, Buggs. Like the Needles themselves...full of "other" life.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Ibzackly L,
That place just has a powerful, "other lifely" feel to it. I gotta get back...
Glad someone else "sees" it too...
Buggs
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2008 - 12:47am PT
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No Buggz,
It definitely belongs on this thread!
Nice work dooood, I didn't know you
did that.
Of course there's so much I don't know.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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I can't let it all out at once, I'll melt into a pile like the witch on Oz.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2008 - 01:10am PT
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Well, speaking of melting into a pile,
let's see how long it takes photobucket
to get this edited version over...
Check back later if it looks too normal.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2008 - 01:29am PT
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Spot the climber....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2008 - 02:13am PT
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Hey Buggz,
Isn't this the spot where Thag hooked up with that
one legged climber chick from Uzbekistan??
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 03:17am PT
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Bump for kDraves since he was asking about the Needles.
Tarbuster, We're still waiting for your uber-bitchin' Needles thread! Hope you're doing well. It was so cool to see you last summer.....
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 24, 2009 - 10:11am PT
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Bumpworthy
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 11:34am PT
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Thanks drljefe, yeah it's a bomber thread. I'm glad that other people put Needles pix on here too! And they seem to have such quality in their pictures...geez, makes me feel kinda lame.
Oh well, blame it on Buggs. HA!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 11:14am PT
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Wednesday Bump!! That's for you Caylor...you shameless thread bumper.
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Bump
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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Double Bump
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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bump
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 29, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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Man I love the Needles. What a great climbing scene.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
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Mike M. type bumpage!!!!
Still love this thread, and not just cause it's mine.
Lotsa other folks put Needles pix on here too.
Surely someone has some pix to post?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Ok that one seriously kicks ***. Still have twenty minutes before heading to my meeting.
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Love the climbing content bumpage going on! Here are a few from a trip earlier this summer.
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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The best (and scariest, for me) climbing ever! Magical.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
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WAY HOMO FANNY PACK BUMP!
Shut yer man pleasuring hole......
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Bump for the real deal Y'all, I had forgotten 'about this great thread!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 15, 2012 - 01:55am PT
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Needles stoke
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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May 15, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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I put a summer in working this beast. It was sooooo worth it!
Josh
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
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Tad, how the hell did you go there and only do one route? Hahahahaaa!!
I get it, quick turn around, checking it out.
I flew down from Alaska, so I wasn't leaving right away!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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