North Dome Gully Descent??

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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
There was a great photo showing the descent on ST some time back, please post a link ....tried the search with no luck, thanks in advance!
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Apr 20, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
This one?
WBraun

climber
Apr 20, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
From Clints place; http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos


This photo is a scanned version of John Sheard's photo in Yosemite Climber.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
Werner, that is a great photo. I notice the line just end off to the left. Is that where you then come and get us and carry our haul bag back to the car?

Thanks!
WBraun

climber
Apr 20, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
You're dreaming man .....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 20, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
The first photo (posted by Shack) is a good angle to view the gully, and is accurate.

The second photo (posted by Werner) shows the trail from the top of Royal Arches over to North Dome Gully. It is not such a good angle for the actual route in North Dome Gully, though.

Be the first to beta test this topo - drawn in 2003 after several trips down and up the gully:


There is a ? on the upper rappel for Alt B, because I only did it once, in 1987, at night and don't remember that part well.

I hiked up Alt A once with a full pack - I went all the way up to the base of Dakshina. I've never tried to descend using Alt A.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:11am PT
Not shown in the photos is the requirement to keep going along the cliff trail before turning ~150 degrees right, and down into the Gully.

The turn point is pretty obvious. The cliff to your right is completely gone, and you're on the sand slopes of the Gully.

Being impatient, and pretending you're "just about there", and then turning right early, means doing 5th class downclimbing moves above the Death Slabs.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2008 - 09:35am PT
Thanks everyone and sorry about the smartass comment Werner my computer was highjacked when I turned my back to pour some more wine.
Double D

climber
Apr 21, 2008 - 10:54am PT
Wish I had beta like this when I was a grom and topped out on Royal Arches and had to bivi 'cause we got stuck in 10' tall manzanita!

jenren

Trad climber
Sac, CA
Apr 21, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
With MANY THANKS everyone! : )
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
For completeness, might as well add this one here...

I added a yellow box to a C Mac photo. I think it marks the "sandy west-facing" start of the descent down NDG.

Good enough. Perhaps TMI. :)

Happy climbing!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
the trail is much better defined now than back in the day...

...hard to imagine getting lost, but...
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Jun 25, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
I have been down NDG twice this summer. There is a good path is well cairned this year. Interestingly that big deluge that happened this spring seemed to change the sandy gulley part. Not harder, just different.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
First (and only?) time I've tried it, I had no picture or beta other than "don't descend too early or you'll hit the death slabs." Afraid of this, we kept going way past the obvious sandy gulley and ridge to the east of it, eventually cliffed out while tunneling on hands and knees in manzanita late at night. Shiver bivy ensued. Next morning we back-tracked and found the obvious way, with a fixed rope in the sandy gully.

The thing that really threw me off was a large white cairn on top of the ridge to the *east* of the proper descent gulley. I thought we hat to go to that cairn and then sight the next cairn or something. So if that big white cairn is still on the ridgeline (which you can see from the top of Washington Column), drop down in a big sandy gully right before it.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
There used to be a fixed line at the top of the gully - not sure if it's still there.
John Morton

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
A popular descent in the sixties was to scramble down a gully much closer to the Column, ending with a very short rap to easy ground. I can't remember any landmarks for this, but I do remember that the outcome looked uncertain from above. Ain't that just like the mountains ...

surely some geezer will remember this from talking to Roper
John
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
If I recall correctly there was a fatality on that route in the late 70s or early 80s. Party attempted to downclimb the steep slabs and one of them took the big one. Rest of the party stayed put till next day. Was written up in ANAM.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Doug Scott could do that thing on his knees, in the dark, in a blizzard.
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
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