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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 17, 2008 - 12:22am PT
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For a change of pace, here's a recent trip report. My true bumblieness may be quickly revealed.... It was sort of a tour of moderates that I mostly hadn't done before, with a FA thrown in, plus Wei got some practice on following and leading on gear.
Ejesta
p1 has a choice of a 5.8 narrowing hand crack or a 5.7 layback.
Wei is on the hand crack here, but the pro is on the layback, so he ended up doing both.
On p2 I chose the hand crack option.
RORP p1-p2
Wei led p1, a 5.5 chimney to a corner with dead trees.
p2 was supposedly 5.5, but is actually a 5.8 flaring corner with a 4" crack.
[Edit: see Greg's comment - we were off route! The real 5.5 is over to the right - oops. So much for my skills in reading a topo....]
The Gray Bullet
After some initial runout hummock moves, it goes up a clean 5.8 finger to thin hand crack, then some easy knobs.
p2 has a cool (aka exciting) 5.7 traverse.
Parkline Slab
Still smiling on the approach - before the poison oak zone....
Haley Anna
This is the nice finger to hand to fist crack, which goes past the roof.
Unfortunately it has poison oak at the base; we took care that the rope did not get into it.
Up high there is a loose flake in the crack which you can jam next to; then the crack is fist size, but it is low angle,
so you can mostly climb the knobs on either side.
It would be 5.7 ** if it was close to the road, with no poison oak and the loose flake removed. As it stands, 5.8 * is fair enough.
Homeworld
There were a couple of shirtless guys doing a fairly new route over to the right. It think it is probably Homeworld, but I'm not sure.
Vanderbilt-Gledhill (FA)
We did the first ascent of the finger crack just left of Haley Anna.
It is named after a couple of my college friends (Nick Vanderbilt and Francis Gledhill)
who disappeared in a climbing accident on the Wishbone Arete of Mt. Robson in 1984.
It is mostly 5.7, but has a brief 5.10c crux where the crack narrows to tips for about 5 feet, right above a stance.
I led this on my 8.8mm rappel rope, because our lead line got stuck on a flake when we rapped from Haley Anna.
It starts on the first 10' of Haley Anna and then traverses left.
Above the crux is a hand crack and then a 5.9 move out right to the upper thin finger crack.
Wei at the rap station; done for the day.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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Hey Clint, the 5.5 on the 2nd pitch of the RORP is a low-angle offwidth around the corner to the right. The 5.8 crack/corner variation that you did is more fun.
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Apr 17, 2008 - 01:03am PT
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looks like fun climbing away from crowds. thanks for the great pix and tr.
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leinosaur
Trad climber
burns flat, ok
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Apr 17, 2008 - 01:41am PT
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now that's a TR! Nice one. Sorry about your friends, nice tribute.
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way
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Apr 17, 2008 - 03:07am PT
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Clint, Thanks for the fearless posion oak whackin work, so we can have a fun new route and my noob moment captured on photo, :-) priceless!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:25am PT
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Thanks Clint for the Tr.
Looks cool.
Z
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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NIce job thanks forthe post.
Prod.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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Nice!
Looks like some fun climbing, thank you for posting...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:50am PT
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Good times!
Looks like some fun stuff.
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SteveW
Trad climber
State of confusion
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Apr 17, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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Clint
As usual, nice pix!
Silly question--is all of that green at the base of
Halley Anna. . .ed oops. . .poison oak???? Plus, that one picture of your
buddy belaying--it looks like the rope is going
directly through some wacky tebaccy plants, better known
as MJ. . .
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Apr 17, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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Nice shoes! I'm on my fifth pair of those green Scarpas. but I change those out, unlike ...that pink rope. Didn't want to get PO on the good one?
Thanks for the mellow routes TR. I suspect KK and I will be all over those in a few weeks.
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
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SteveW
The rope at the base of the climb is going through Eriodictyon
californicum which is also called Yerba Santa. It's a
California native.
It can be made into a flavorful tea (not universally loved,
however) with decongestant properties.
It's in the family Hydrophyllaceae. Phacelia is another member
of that family, of more widespread familiarity.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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SteveW,
Here's the scoop on the poison oak at the base:
There was also a little poison oak at the base of the RORP.
Rhodo,
I didn't want to get poison oak on either rope. But my lead line was safe during the second climb because it was hung up on the rappel.
"Forced to do a FA to retrieve booty" ? :-)
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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Very nice. A climbing buddy of mine seems to have an unhealthy obsession with that RORP route :)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Apr 18, 2008 - 12:53am PT
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Some handsome cracks in there. Thanks for the TR. I marvel that new routes still go up that easy in the heart of American climbing!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Apr 21, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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Good pics!
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Ω
climber
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Apr 21, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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That is not a new route. That was done years ago and I just did it 2 years ago, stuff grows back fast.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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Omega,
> That is not a new route. That was done years ago and I just did it 2 years ago, stuff grows back fast.
Nice try, but I just cleaned it in 2004, and I left the 10' crux section uncleaned until the day of the FA. No way could the crux section have been done w/o cleaning....
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 21, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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I don't know Clint, I remember climbing two routes left of Hayley Anna years ago. One started about 15-20' left.Thrashed through scrub oak to get to the base. The second was about 40-50' left up a right facing corner.
I also did two pitches that continue up from the top right end of Hayley Anna. The first pitch,5.6, continues up and right in a crack that peters out ending at a 2 bolt anchor, right above a large roof. The second pitch,5.9R goes straight up the face passing a few bolts and a few discontinuous cracks ending at 2 bolts on the shoulder of the wall. Been meaning to go back and add bolts to that last pitch but...
Thanks to all your posts and your wealth of info on routes and climbing in general.
Jeff
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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Been too long since I've fingered a splitter Yosemite crack. Nice report. I could also smell the bay bushes.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Apr 21, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
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Nah Tork, you're wrong. Stuff never grows back into cracks once you clean them, especially on lowish angle slabs with gullies above and lots of runoff.
Chicken Skinner? Care to comment? I can't imagine doing Haley Anna (which looks SO amazing-can't believe I haven't done it!) and not blasting up the variation afterwards, while you're still there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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Jeff,
> I don't know Clint, I remember climbing two routes left of Hayley Anna years ago. One started about 15-20' left.Thrashed through scrub oak to get to the base. The second was about 40-50' left up a right facing corner.
There is a big clean RFC about 20' left of Hayley Anna - is that one of the routes you climbed? (a fair amount of poison oak guards the base of that at the moment). There are certainly more cracks further left. Got any names/ratings/FA info for those climbs? I'll add them to my list of Yosemite climbs that should be going online soon. (Plus, it saves me from the embarassment of having one of my routes "first" in the list!)
Here's a photo, if marking it up would help (you can probably see that Hayley Anna starts just left of the top of the powerline tower):
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/parkln/
> I also did two pitches that continue up from the top right end of Hayley Anna. The first pitch,5.6, continues up and right in a crack that peters out ending at a 2 bolt anchor, right above a large roof. The second pitch,5.9R goes straight up the face passing a few bolts and a few discontinuous cracks ending at 2 bolts on the shoulder of the wall. Been meaning to go back and add bolts to that last pitch but...
Cool - it is a good looking buttress up there above Hayley Anna. Name/rating/FA info? I can always put in a note that it's in progress.
P.S. I agree that dirt returns and vegetation grows back to climbs that are cleaned, especially if they do not get traffic. My "nice try" comment was about Omega's claim that he did the route 2 years ago. In my judgement, it was not cleaned 20 years ago, either. I've been climbing for 35 years and have seen nature reclaim a few climbs. I figured Omega was trolling, so I didn't offer a detailed explanation.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 28, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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Bump for some great pictures and some sweet pitches. Just did Flatus to the Rorpe the other day, Great climb.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 28, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
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Worth a remention here...
The bolts at the top of the last pitch per the reid guide [Edit: I typed roper before] were chopped/moved. You can no longer rap this route with one rope.
Also...I think the Flatus start flare w/ a 4-incher is 5.9+!
Fun, sunny route.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 28, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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//The bolts at the top of the last pitch per the roper guide were chopped/moved. You can no longer rap this route with one rope.//
Melissa, do you mean the top top or the top of the third pitch?
Also it is unclear where the route starts. The green guide says it starts in a shallow right leaning crack? We started in an obvious right facing corner, a little bit wide but mostly hands/big hands. Years ago I started about 15' right. There is an angling crack that leans to the right between both starts.
Have you done the upper pitches?
How big gear wise up there? Anybody.
Jeff
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Apr 28, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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TR Bump! Nice pics, thanks.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 29, 2010 - 02:02am PT
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I'm looking at Meyers and Reid right now which is probably the same as Reid (and mine is ???)...The 7th "W" is the last shown (slab traverse over near Flatus) although the route (per Roper and obviousness) can be topped out if you're inclined to trash down from the top of Reids. (Someday, I'll be hard enough to think that's what I should do in the name of tradition and stuff, but the rap is expeditious and doesn't give you a rash.)
I've done the route to that point several times, but never to the summit. On our last outing, my bf was leading the "last" pitch, and came to the former anchor area, and it was gone, but other bolts were off leftish as you headed towards the summit (as memory serves). Part of the effect of this was that our 1 rope wouldn't get us down shennanigan-free as it had in the past, so I offered up the pleasure of downclimbing to him, and skipped the final pitch on that outing.
J is telling me right now that bolts were also added to the "final" pitch for lead pro in addition to chopping the anchor. I forgot that part. Hard telling why someone thought it was worth their time to change an old route by both adding and taking bolts away?
Stone Groove is the best start, IMO. Flatus 5.9++ fist flare second choice. A real unsung moderate classic, IMO.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
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bump for climbing related info on routes I'd love to do/and have done
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 29, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
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bump for a good recent tr...
Clint, whatcha doing this weekend?
kev
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2010 - 03:16am PT
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How about some photos of the upper RORP? (with Flatus start)
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/BeyondLunacy.pdf
P.S. Kev, no plans for me this weekend, except working....
Hope to be in the Valley rebolting with Roger very soon, though.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 30, 2010 - 03:27am PT
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Nice clint!
I have wondered what those bolts were heading for from flatus P2.
Thanks for the info, the rorp seems like a fun romp up that stone.
Great pictures!
Mucci
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Take!Take!
Trad climber
Durango Colorado
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Apr 30, 2010 - 08:43am PT
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Very nice. I am old, busted up and can hardly get my body up anything but 5.8 or lower. I love long mild trad climbs. Thanks for posting that. People forget people love the sport of all levels.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 30, 2010 - 10:15am PT
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Clint,
Nice photos! I suspect we know who those bolts belong to...
Don't work to much this weekend.
kev
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 10, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
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Missed the update. Good to see Noriko still getting out there !
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Clint, good call on bypassing that "5.7 chimney" on Flatus. This weekend my lady and I were looking for a nice 5.9ish climb and landed on Flatus, which has been on my radar for a while. We didn't finish the whole thing, but I'll be back better prepared for adventure. Mini-TR with pics coming in the next few days! If you're a bruiser or a bleeder, bring knee-pads and elbow pads.
p.s. Gray Bullet first pitch munge was pretty sketchy looking. I reversed the entry moves before placing gear above the first nasty dry hollow hummock, back-tracking to my belayer 15-20 feet to the left. Clint is the king of understatement in his description of that thing!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Clint-
Thanks for he really great TR, and especially the great photos! Makes me want to get back out on the rock as soon as I can. The RORP looks very cool.
P.S. I hate Poison Oak!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Here's another "bump" for the great job Clint did with this thread!
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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As Melissa mentioned on this tread about last pitch of Rorp :
Worth a remention here...
The bolts at the top of the last pitch per the reid guide [Edit: I typed roper before] were chopped/moved. You can no longer rap this route with one rope.
So we did Rorp to Flatus this weekend and I expected that bolts choped for last rap and planned to arrange my own rappel anchor and took some old gears to leave.
It turned out that when last groovy 5.7 crack of Rorp diminishing - there is line of 4-5 bolts going up on knobby face toward Rappel anchor just below the headwall . It is about same place where Magical Mystery Tour ending.
We rappel from there. The strange things is this rappel looks longer that 200 feet to the next closest one which is on top of 5.7ow. Anyway we had only one 80m rope and arrange intermediate station using one of the lead bolt on the route.
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