Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
|
|
Nice pics guys!! And Largo I was jsut teasing. I think a lot of 'classic' routes have that kind of issue. They are classic more for their historical value, position, line and the formation they climb than anything else. The Reg on Fairview is similar. Some great climbing for sure but not pitch after pitch of divine granite by any stretch.
|
|
Festus
Mountain climber
Antelope Valley
|
|
Hey, Cracko
With all that experience, how did you then go oh for three on Prodigal Sun? Keerist, Michael Jackson could step into the batter's box against Randy Johnson and put up the same numbers.
"Now pinch hitting for Cracko, number 16, Bulging Puke!"
[crowd cheers]
|
|
malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
I walked it.
|
|
Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
|
|
The original question was about the free climbing cruxes not about some easy pitch rated 5.7 only because there is an easy chimney at the end of it. The Huber variation around the bolt ladder is easier than Higbee but not as classic. The squeeze chimney to skip the 11c corner is airy. The very end of the Zig Zags would have to be the absolute crux, very thin. Seems much harder than the rating. Another crux would be the crowds since it is a gumby wall route with parties taking upwards of 20 hours for one day ascents.
|
|
malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
Look TradBoy, BURT BRONSON has probably already free-soloed this route in heavy mountaineering boots in under 2 hours.
|
|
Southern Man
climber
|
|
I still stand in awe of anyone who climbs HD and the Nose in a day. Heck, I amazed that folks hike the slabs, climb the RNWF, and go back down the slabs in a day!
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
He wrote: "The very end of the Zig Zags would have to be the absolute crux, very thin."
Especially if you hve fat fingers like I do. I think this last bit--20 or so ultra-thin feet--would probably be rated around 5.12b by modern standards.
JL
|
|
Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
|
|
If you if you are just really fat like I am. The thin feet pose extra problems when your belly prevents you from seeing them.
|
|
Southern Man
climber
|
|
Who ever in the future does the first free solo of this route will be one bad-ass individual. IMHO.
|
|
yo
climber
NOT Fresno
|
|
Supposedly some mad Brit soloed it in the '80s. Belatedly reported in the AAJ maybe 5-10 years back. Seriously.
|
|
dirtbagaaron
Trad climber
el cap dreamin'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2005 - 07:01pm PT
|
so i guess i should start training huh? about the fingers, i have girl hands for sure. and i will definitely train for the ledge walk.
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
damn that ledge walk looks scary as hell.
so which is the best method, belly in or belly out?
|
|
bobmarley
Trad climber
auburn, california
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2005 - 06:11pm PT
|
dirtbagaaron, just did the regular route yesterday! excellent route man and i highly recommend it. to big sandy is pretty much all free 5.8/5.9 except the 2 bolt ladders and that 10c first pitch. some of the 5.9's were demanding for the grade, but pretty much valley 5.9. my partner led all that in 1 block. i led the next block from big sandy to the top. i free climbed, french freed, and aided thru the zig zags, but never actually broke out the aiders. there's alot of fixed gear to clip for sure. thank god ledge was a bit intimidating but fun and easy and easy to protect. i walked across until it got weird and hard, then just hand traversed across which was easy. i agree with JL about the quality being high sierra granite-ish. but i did not think too chossy. that last 5.11 was the heady-est to me. it's not a straightforward bolt ladder so be prepared for some hard face moves or a little aiding (which i did). not to carry on here, but we went with a fairly light rack 11 cams, 10 stoppers. biggest cam was BD #3. the rack turned out perfect i thought and was ample for every pitch. good luck and have fun on it!
|
|
JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2005 - 07:37pm PT
|
I did thank god and took one look at the 5.9 and headed out to the left. I then free climbed up to a belay. Long runnout but I avoided the OW. Looking at the topo it says A2. But I free climbed it.
Felt the zig zags where easy for 5.11.
Juan
|
|
Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2005 - 08:09pm PT
|
That's why your the "rockstar", Juan.
|
|
Impaler
Trad climber
Munich
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2010 - 08:48am PT
|
So which is the preferred variation: the Higbee or the Huber dihedral for most people who free the route? Squeeze chimney or the 11c crack that is often wet? What's safer gear-wise?
|
|
pyrosis
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2010 - 10:22am PT
|
>>Yeah, if anybody out there's walked Thank God, they best spray about it now.
Five years too late, but..
I walked it, the whole thing. Toetips way out on the edge to keep from tipping over backwards. Even squatted down in the middle to place a piece of gear. I guess I didn't realize it would be easier to hand traverse. Probably took me like ten minutes, inch by inch. And.. I was scared shitless the whole time. Partner hand traversed on the second, took him less than a minute. Doh! :)
-Tavis
|
|
NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
|
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Last clip of Lichen Lunch
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
|
Awesome shot.
The Void beckons, huh?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!