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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 14, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
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for the love of all that is holy, sell those things already!!!
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JMC
climber
Tucson
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Apr 14, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
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You'll be able to buy them about the same time the A5 hammer project is finished...
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northtrials
Trad climber
Penrith, Cumbria, UK
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Apr 14, 2008 - 03:30pm PT
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You can buy them in the UK now! :)
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Apr 14, 2008 - 03:32pm PT
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Larry at Mtn Tools is saying mid to late April...
I'm thinking maybe next month.
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Barto
climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Apr 14, 2008 - 03:33pm PT
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England: the world's first post-industrial nation.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Apr 14, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Their a myth. They don't exist. Never will.
Somehow I no longer have my #8-10, but have 2 #11's, WTF? I should try drilling out my #11's, those things is HEAVY!
I also have three #1's, but only ever bought one. I bootied one from the Washtington Column bivy spot one year, and another a year later. Why the butter fingers for that size?
PS, Where'd you get the pic Healyje? Do you have any inside info besides "soon"?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 14, 2008 - 04:09pm PT
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mmmm...nice, can't wait. sucks that they had to go and change the color scheme though...my poor bigwall rack is just turning to a psychedelic rainbow pile.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2008 - 04:16pm PT
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Moof, got it from a friend in the EU - I have no idea when they might ship other than it sounds hopeful that it will be soon given the poster above is saying they're selling them in the UK. I agree that it completely sucks they changed the colors.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 14, 2008 - 04:20pm PT
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Dang, just as I was about to bust out my extra sets to sell them for big bux$ on e-bay.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Apr 14, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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Cool beans. Sure enough, a bunch of UK sites are claiming they have them on hand. Hopefully the pipeline will get them moved over to the states quickly!
Healyje, your rusky cuffs are done. I can mail them, drop them at Bill's work, meet you at PRG, or meet you next time you are headed to the West side of town. They came out pretty darn nice.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2008 - 06:47pm PT
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Moof, thanks for the rusky aider cuffs, should be interesting.
Let's figure out a night at the PRG and I'll bring that Portacord pack I need modded.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
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Just heard back from DMM's US rep that they should start trickling in here and there next week.
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Apr 15, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
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Thanks for the update on that HealyJ. I've heard great things about the old HB's from some old-school folks I've been climbing with in Red Rocks this spring. I'm looking forward to getting a set of these to fill out my rack.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 15, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
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WOOT!
Uber can finally replace my purple.
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chossyslab
climber
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Apr 15, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
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i think the real question is when will they release the small sizes?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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It's apparently a peculiar story, but DMM doesn't hold the rights to manufacture the small HB Offsets Brass Nuts. They are being made, however, and are available exclusively through the Yosemite Mountain Shop at:
http://www.yosemitegifts.com/hboffsets.html
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Apr 15, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
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I got a second set of the Brass ones last year. They are I-fricking-dentical to my old ones (except shinier). I was impressed. Then I went to the register with about 1 oz of metal and was impressed again. Or was it depressed? $75, plus tax, for #2-6. Sheesh.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Apr 15, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
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I was in Moab this last weekend and both the climbing shops had a few sets of them. Pagan and Gear Heads. You can always Call Pagan and have them shipped to you... They looked almost fake with that tricked out anodized finish.
-Jesse
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Apr 15, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
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BD are making some that will be out next year.......
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Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
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Apr 16, 2008 - 08:39pm PT
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Bump
Was at Desert Rock sports today they had them in stock,give Travis a call
Ninfa
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 16, 2008 - 08:44pm PT
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Nomad has offsets - hoora!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:15am PT
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The mountain shop in the Valley has them too.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Apr 17, 2008 - 09:17am PT
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Mgear has the new Offsets on their website showing that they are shipping on April 21.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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Has anybody tried them?
How do they work?
thx, jb
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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Well, the one I picked up crumbled into little pieces of paper mache. Sure enough, these things are one giant hoax set up to further crush my soul.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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They look look they'll work just as well as the originals. One of my favorite nuts of all time.
Does anyone care if nuts are color coded? Are there really climbers out there who look down at their racks and choose...blue?
I rack my nuts by size: 6-8 to a 'biner and all of them are, say, knuckle sized. Another 'biner has 6-8 of pinky-tip size.
Colored nuts seem like a waste of effort and money, not to mention the environmental damage that the anodizing process creates.
BTW, I think color coding of cam slings is great, and I color code my shoulder slings. Singles are one color, doubles are another. Everything else seems like a waste.
Mal
Almost forgot, I never leave the house unless my socks match my bandana.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:48am PT
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Mal,
I must be abnormal then. I'm hooked on my stoppers being distinctively colored. I prefer to just pop one nut off the biner, and not unclip the whole pile. It's also hand when it comes to gear sorting, harder for your partner to claim your nuts as his when your's have smiley's coloring, and their's have BD markings.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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I'm with Mal - I don't dig the anodized wedges either. The colors just confuse me more than help.
When I look at the nuts, I see sizes. I wish they were are natural metallic looking.
Is there a good way to de-anodize them?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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Anodized for life. You're stuck looking like a candy colored noob (especially with those glasses!) for the remainder of your climbing days.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 17, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
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So Moof, do you rack them by brand? OR do you just have one brand.
Does anyone know if there is any color coordination between the brands? Metolius vs BD vs WC?
Mal
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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I've suggested several times in various forums that manufacturers should coordinate on this color/size business across both nuts and cams. Define a size color spectrum with range demarcs - all gear will fall inside one color of the size spectrum. That way, say all 'blue' pieces, will fall into more or less the same size. Manufacturers could also then reproduce the same color spectrum in biners for racking.
Like John says - I think in sizes - in order to 'think in colors' the colors would have to normalized across all manufacturers. As it is now, between the biners and the gear itself, it's like you're tripping every time you look down at your rack - not to mention all the visual clutter of the wire gates. And that's when you're straight...
(Under this proposal OP would have to make rainbow colored Link Cams - or somehow mark them with the smallest and largest colors on inner and outer cam lobe links sort of the way Metolius was marking their Ultralight Offset cams using two different colors of tubing on the stem.)
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hemp22
climber
PDX
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Apr 17, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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DMM wallnuts and WC rocks use the same color scheme (and are made in the same factory). I think that's a step in the right direction.
....although it looks like maybe the DMM alloy offsets use a slightly different scheme...i'm not sure, haven't compared em side-by-side yet.
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tomtom
Social climber
Seattle, Wa
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Apr 17, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
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Does anyone care if nuts are color coded? Are there really climbers out there who look down at their racks and choose...blue?
Yes. If the red nut is a tad too small, then the blue nut fits perfectly. I've had Smileys since I started leading, so I see placements in terms of color.
The rational for color coding cams is the same as the rational for coding nuts.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Apr 17, 2008 - 03:44pm PT
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Being new back to climbing, and for the first time exposed to color coding.
I agree with healyje 100% and I agree with TomTom at the same time.
No I don't look at gear and think in terms 'that crack is a blue cam" why ?
Because today I climb on my rack, tomorrow his, and Wednesday hers. Why wire color code in ref' to sizes ?
There's no uniformity across manufacturer's.
I agree with healyje', it would great if an organization could create a uniform color code and serve it up as a suggestion for industry standard or at least a suggested 'best practice'.
However, is this realistic?
Would industry manufacturers actually 'cow tow' to the idea ?
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:01pm PT
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Only used them once or twice, so a question for all of you who've used them (the old version) a lot.
What do you mostly use them for? Are they mostly just for aid in pin scars? Or are they mostly for free climbing?
Are they equally at home in sandstone, granite, other?
Considering whether to invest in them. I already have two full sets of nuts (BD or equivalent, plus a set of various booties).
Thanks!
GO
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summerprophet
Mountain climber
Cali Via Canada
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:14pm PT
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GO climb,
Yosemite pin scars. That is what the taper is designed for. And for that purpose they work damn well.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:16pm PT
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They work well in tapering/flaring/funky cracks in addition to pin scars.
In my experience, you can always place the HB offsets anywhere you can place a bd stopper, but not always vice versa.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
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They kick ass for aid in pin scars. For free climbing they are often my second set of nuts. In funky flares they will wedge in snuggly and securely where normal stoppers lever out easily.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 17, 2008 - 06:04pm PT
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I tried to get all the manufacturers to color coordinate about 10 years ago when we were developing our cam range but a very large one said no, they didn't want to change their colors. So when we were selecting our colors we just matched the Camalot colora as best we could. 3" cams are blue, 2" Yellow, 1" Red, etc.
Works pretty well.
Mal
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irregularpanda
Trad climber
Reno
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Apr 18, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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And I really appreciate that color coding with the max-cams. Now I just wish I had 22 of them and 1 camalot instead of the other way around.....
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| Messages 1 - 41 of total 41 in this topic |
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