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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2008 - 11:49am PT
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I am looking for any information or where I can get information on the free routes that go up Clouds Rest (5.10?) and GP Apron (5.10?). I remember hearing that there were 2 good, but not often done routes around 5.10 that go up these two formations. I am looking for any and all information that anyone has about these routes. My partner and I are looking to do them. Additionally, if any one else has any good tips on stellar 5.9/10/11 long free routes in and around the valley beyond the standards, I would like that info as well. Someone told me of a really good 10.11 that goes up Mt Watkins that may have 1 pitch of aid on it (?).
Thanks -
Maezermoo
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kev
climber
CA
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You should be able to find a lot of info and ask much better questions (which will probably get you more and better answers than this one) if you actually search this forum and the web first.
FYI Ropers book has some stuff on CR.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Hey! that is a really nice little www site. Looks like a fun adventure.
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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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James: Thanks. The 2 routes i am thinking of i thought were in the upper 20 to 30 pitches in length. Those are the routes I am looking for. Any info on those or am I mistaken. That one looks very nice though. Again, thanks.
kev: Blow me.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"kev: Blow me."
That's pretty damn funny but how might that actually work giv en that Annie-mae is a female moniker.
JL
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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as far as GPA, I'd think you're talkign about Galactic Hitchhiker, which is 42 pitches (I think), in it's original form. It's .11a/b, but mostly .10 or easier with only a couple of crux sections. Karl has some good info about the route.
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kev
climber
CA
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Hiya Anniemae,
As John points out I might be interested if you're cute enough. Seriously I just typed in 'clouds rest' in the Taco search bar,
clicked the FIRST thread, scrolled down to the 7th entry and wow clint had posted the same link that someone gave you.
I wont even bother to google 'rock climbing clouds rest'
Plus the roper book I suggested has descriptions of stuff on CR. Give me a break and don't be so damn lazy. What are you going to ask for next beta on Shuteye Ridge?????
kev
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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hahaha... well, I can understand people asking about Shuteye. There's really not a ton of info out there about anything there. And most of the people doing route development there think it's some sort of secret, which is amusing. They post pics of it all the time and it's painfully obvious it's Shuteye.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Largo... in the ear, in the ear.
Seriously, GH is a damn long Apron route but with the lack of attention in past years I wonder about the quality of anchors, etc.
Clouds Rest is sort of a jewel. It is possible to do some VERY LONG routes up there, and they have been done. That website is quite nice (and one I did not know about previously.) For the most part CR is a haven from topos, beta, rap bolting, etc. Instead, it is a home-away-from-home where exploration and a good day (or two) on the rocks can be had with NO crowds, good rock, unbelievable views and a true summit.
Just sitting in the canyon and looking up at it you will postulate a hundred routes.
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Gene
climber
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You gotta love the detail Roper gives in the Green Guide:
Clouds Rest - Northwest Face
IV, 5.8. Bob Kamps and Bud Couch, July 1963
Little is known about this route except that it wanders up the 4,000-foot, low angle face. By careful routefinding it is possible to avoid using aid.
Clouds Rest - Northwest Ledges
III, 5.5. Dick Long and Jack Davis, August 1952.
From Tenaya Canyon work upward via brush, ledges and occasional class 4 climbing, aiming for a point three-quarters of a mile right of the summit. When about 500 feet below the rim, traverse hundreds of feet to the left along class 2 ledges. Cross a gully (5.5) and continue along easy ledges to the rim.
Both routes sound like great adventures.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Annie-Go down, (or up) tenaya canyon. Look around, and you'll find the beta on how to do so safely. IMO, easier to go down.
When you get to the start of the "Inner Gorge" a "mandatory" (not really) rap from a shelf into a tight gorge, before going down, turn around and look up canyon. There is a giant orangish boulder, totally out of place around the silver gray stuff all over. I think the route you're asking about starts there and goes up for like 2 pitches of 5.9.
I haven't done it, some of my friends have, and they loved it.
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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
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"as far as GPA, I'd think you're talkign about Galactic Hitchhiker, which is 42 pitches (I think), in it's original form. It's .11a/b, but mostly .10 or easier with only a couple of crux sections. Karl has some good info about the route. "
That's the one. Thanks!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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You'll find all the Hitchhiker reports and topo in this part of my site
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/TripReportfree.html
The Cloud's rest climb is way, way lighter climbing but routefinding is tougher and that goes quadruple for the approach. Print out the directions on their website.
Anybody going that far down Tenaya Canyon should treat it with respect and leave no trace. It's the untouched heart of Yosemite.
PEace
Karl
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Long, Hard and Free - 77 routes - 10 or more pitches, 5.11 and harder:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
The anchors on Galactic Hitchhiker are not bad. They are 3/8", but nonstainless. So some are rusting a bit, but there is still a lot of good steel under the rust, I expect.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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AnnieMae, I repeated a route on Bunnel Point some years ago that I highly recommend. Bunnel Point is up Little Yosemite Valley, past Half Dome. It's about 8 miles from the Valley floor (one way).
The route is Golden Bear. It has one definitely 5.10 pitch and several areas of 5.9. But the majority of the climbing in 17 pitches is 5.7 to 5.8. Beautiful location, beautiful, huge slab. I did a topo that I think is quite good. I don't have it here, but I'll try to post it when I get home.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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anyone ever link Favorite Things and Galactic Hitchhiker, in a (long) day?
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Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Now that the Shuteye was mentioned I am curious as I haven't been around there yet. Is it a good time to go there right now? Is it mostly snow free? What is good to get on there: the bolted or the gear routes? Thanks and sorry about the drift.
Vlad
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kev
climber
CA
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Yeah the road to Shuteye is snow free for sure by now. It's probably improved to be a high clearance and not a 4x4 drive.
I would suggest anything in Spencer's book given his detailed and accurate approach descriptions.
Snicker....Vlad = Troll
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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"I would suggest anything in Spencer's book"
hahaha That's a pretty good troll, all by itself! hahahaha
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kev
climber
CA
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Nefarius,
Glad you appreciate my humor! Maybe I should have suggested something on Balloon Dome due to the short approach, or maybe the Book of Revelation....I seem to remember something in the description about following the faint wash (which is long since gone from the place that Spencer put it).
kev
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Clouds Rest:
We tried to follow the Kamps/Couch route keeping in mind the style of route finding which they would have been employing on such a big feature back in the day.
Rick Cashner gave us a clue about the big orange boulder at the base, and from there we picked out a line no harder than 5.8, which had a few turns and it and took us all the way to the top.
We descended from Olmsted Point and went pretty much straight down Tenaya Canyon to the base.
Here is the picture provided on the My Favorite Things link,
look how similar the two lines are.
I carefully studied their route descriptions and photographs and I swear I can hardly make heads or tails of it!
This just goes to show how big that place is. We did see features along the way that would be 5.9/10 but we did not go into those.
I'm pretty sure the the line they did is a bit to the left of the line we picked out, perhaps sharing some pitches mid--height.
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Gene
climber
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Tarbuster,
Looks like one of those "Rope up at the bottom and follow the line of least resistance" routes. Looks fun. Thanks for the pic.
GM
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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 03:52pm PT
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"The route is Golden Bear. It has one definitely 5.10 pitch and several areas of 5.9. But the majority of the climbing in 17 pitches is 5.7 to 5.8. Beautiful location, beautiful, huge slab. I did a topo that I think is quite good. I don't have it here, but I'll try to post it when I get home."
Excellent! I'd love to see it. Just what we are looking for.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes Gene,
That is exactly what we did; we climbed very quickly, but at key points we took great care to unlock it without it being too difficult and that was very rewarding.
My partner was a guy named Tom Carter.
A nice day out.
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WandaFuca
Gym climber
San Fernando Lamas
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I'm planning on rapping in from the top of Clouds Rest to create the perfect route for you.
I will write up an article and provide detailed information for all. This will give everyone an alternative to the selfish obscurist routes that no one does because they don't have route finding skills. Now you will have a choice: adventure or sport.
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Gene
climber
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I'm having fun with this thread.
Re: Clouds Rest - Does it offer the longest moderate free climbs in California? Is there anything down in SoYo or SEKI that is comparable in length that goes at a moderate grade? For the right climb, I can suspend my 20 minute approach rule.
Thanks,
Geriatric Gene
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Wanda, please!
How do you expect us to find the start?!
You may want to blaze the trees on the way out.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Favorite Things has a ton of hiking and would be hard for anybody but a speed climber-runner to link in a day with Hitchhiker, even if you simulcimbed both.
Hitchhiker would make a good linkup with something though cause the approach is short and you can drive away from the top. I can do it in 8 hours (which as far as I know is still the record cause Hans missed all the crux pitches when he went up there in about 6 hours)
Hitchhiker is wet until mid-summer
Peace
Karl
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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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Karl: Talking mid May, is it wet as in totally unclimbable or as in a pitch or two may not be that fun but you can still work your way through.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Gene,
I suspect you are right. Long romp!
Kev,
What have you got against the Book of Rev. approach? Bushwhack free if you do it right and don't follow Spencer - as Gene knows.
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kev
climber
CA
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Nate,
Nothing againist it at all - totally bushwack free if you don't follow Spencer. I was merely suggesting following Spencer...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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"Karl: Talking mid May, is it wet as in totally unclimbable or as in a pitch or two may not be that fun but you can still work your way through."
I dunno. Depends on the season. I think it would be worth a try
peace
Karl
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Here's the Golden Bear topo. The route is on Bunnell Point, which is on topo maps of the upper part of Little Yosemite Valley. The route is also described in the Secor Guide. The topo doesn't tell how to get there, but the trail up the Merced River goes right to it (although the rock and the trail are on the opposite sides of the river). Aside from this route on this formation, there is so dam much other rock up there. It's an amazing place.
If the topo won't print out from this site, I'd be happy to attach it to an email to anyone that asks.
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Gene
climber
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Thanks Mtnyoung. I'll be calling on you for the topo if I head up that way.
GM
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Oh, and I should give credit properly. I noted on the side of the document that the topo was prepared by myself and David Harden. This is an error. I did the Bastille Buttress topo at about the same time using Dave's as a draft. On Golden Bear, Harden and I climbed the route together, but it was a topo by one of the first ascentionist's that I took with us and modified/detailed. So, topo by Bart O'Brian and Brad Young is proper.
Does is matter much, though?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Brad, do you or anyone else know the names and any existing routes on these two domes southwest of Bunnell?
Curious.
(edit) Oh, are they the Cascade Cliffs?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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I do not know of any routes on those domes west of Bunnell that are on the same (south) side of the river. but there is some some pretty impressive rock there (your photo shows some of it, but it's more impressive close up). West of Bunnell, on the other side of the river (north/trail side) Dave mentioned an old 1960s Chouinard plus partner route (or someone from that era). I think that route is in the Roper Valley guidebook. Or his Sierra book.
We did the route car to car in a day and my focus when hiking up through there was on our goal, so my memory on the subject is dim (it was headlamps by the time we were coming out). I'd be happy to put you in touch with Dave. He's one of the most knowledgeable people I know about climbing in the Sierra back country.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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BTW, in Nate's photo, Bunnell is the huge slab toward the top of the extreme left side of the photo. Sorry if we're hijacking your thread, AnnieMae.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here is a slightly larger version of Brad's topo for Bunnell Point - Golden Bear, and a full resolution PDF below.
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/goldenbear.pdf
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Thanks, Clint. As I told him in an email, my skills at posting these types of things are still somewhat rudimentary.
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AnnieMae
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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Hey, thanks for all the great info! The thread hijack was informative - no worries.
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crøtch
climber
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May 18, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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bump for a nice thread about rock climbing
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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May 18, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Uhhh...the route line of "My Favorite Things" sure looks very similar to what many people consider the easiest way up Clouds Rest...likely "The Northwest Face 5.8" of Ropers guide. This is the biggest route in Yosemite...5000 ft. of climbing. Its awesome! This is primarily a calf burning friction hike, best done ropeless and with sticky rubber approach shoes. I did it with a rope once and had to do a lot of simuling with very little gear...maybe its better with a rope now that there's a few pins and bolts up there...but then there's the question...why are the pins and bolts up there now after people have been climbing all over that slab for over 50 years? The route resembles climbing longer if you traverse the big ledge (the unrope point for "My Favorite Things) to the right and go straight up to the summit via a prominent corner for the last bit. I've always approached from Olmstead via Airplane Gully, past the wreckage of an old plane, past one of the best swimming holes in the world below Pywiack Cascades, and straight down the river to the Golden Boulder, which has some nice problems on it. This is an awesome long trip that involves almost no uphill hiking...except on route. Have fun! The first time I did this was with Nick Noel, we were scared of the unknown, but made it up relatively easily. Then we ran down and did Snake Dike just before sunset...my first time up that too! BOTH our headlamps ran out of batteries on the hike back and we had to snuggle by a large campfire all night, smoking the last of our two pack supply of cigarettes. We hobbled back to Olmstead in the morning and headed straight to the grill. Duane's buckwheat pancakes never tasted so good!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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Does anyone have the topo for Northwest Face of Bunnell Point? I believe it is in the Southern Yosemite guidebook but I don't have that book.
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Zander
climber
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Photo Trip Report, My Favorite Things, 10/1/11
Morning Stroll
Route goes up and left
Nice day
P2
P3
P4
P5
Lunch time
P7
P8
Smoke in the valley
P14
Good night Cloud's Rest
A few miles yet to go.
See ya,
Z
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nice Zander, beautiful shots
I enjoyed the route myself.
For those who go there, Please be careful and Leave no Trace in Tenaya Canyon
Peace
Karl
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Great photos Zander! What a cool looking route.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Beautiful, Zander - thanks for sharing.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Beautiful, no standing in line back in there! Thanks Zander.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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:-) Beautiful.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Beautiful photos, Zander. Thans much.
Maybe next Summer . . .
John
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Super-cool! It's boggling how much rock is out there, like being lost at sea. Finding anchor bolts seems like finding a specific atoll after a trans-pacific crossing made by stars.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Great Stuff, Zander
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Kurt Ettinger
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Beautiful. Looks so peaceful out there. Thank you!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Magnifico!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Nice Zander....makes me want to repeat it. Great route....
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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I did My Favorite Things a few years back with Peter Coward. Really nice and scenic. Highly recommended...as Karl suggests, please tread lightly back there.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
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Zander, what an incredible set of pics.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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Nice! Slabs o' Steel!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Oct 10, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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Wow,
Nice going Zander and Bob! Haven't seen you guys for a while.
Steve
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Marshall
climber
bay area
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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We were just up there yesterday. Great route - so cool back there in Tenaya Canyon. Route was super wet from the last storm though - running water on pitches 2-10, so much so that we had to pioneer some new pitches. Clearly an FA, which we're calling "Why Are All My Favorite Things Wet?"
Couple of pics:
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 17, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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great shots, zander.
hadnt seen this before, just been too slammed. glad to see youve been getting out.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 30, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Kev, let's do it this year!!!! (Uh, I mean next year)
Maybe 2 parties of 2?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Where are you bound?
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Nov 30, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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Magic....If you've not been.....Go!
Seas of Stone abound.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Came hunting for this thread trying to find a specific photo that I remembered of Zander's. Still the best single picture I've seen on ST, and there have been many many great ones.
Cheers, Zander!
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Zander
climber
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Mar 19, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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Hey le_bruce, What a day that was! Everytime I turned around it was another beautiful shot. Sometimes the mountain finds you worthy.
If you want the original file let me know.
Cheers,
Z
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 17, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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Seems like a great thread to bump!
Bump!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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has anyone done Galactic Hitchhiker (Yosemite Valley) and Galactic Hitchhiker on Ben Nevis (Scotland)?
I might have a goal for 2013.
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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What a great thread.
I've bivied with friends and fungus on top of CR in a snowstorm, in August, good times.
Tenaya Canyon is a really special place, rugged and undisturbed.
Fungus amongus.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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This is the year. Bump!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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I hiked down to the brink of Pywiack one time. ^^ Total respect.
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sneville
climber
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Feb 22, 2018 - 09:17am PT
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I climbed the route last fall. The first bolt on pitch three which is usually wet cannot be clipped with a biner but a nut slides through the hanger. The bolt is good. The bolt is a five piece and if you bring a hanger your second can replace it . The second pitch was also wet but we were able to climb through it ( not trivial). Pitch 8 was also wet which we were able to climb acrosss. We did this in October so climbing in early summer the route would be a waterfall. The rest of the route is in good shape, rockfall was off to the right. That approach and canyon are awesome just to hike. Have fun!
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