Hey Coz, Sure would like to hear the story of Southern Belle

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drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 21, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
Thanks coz. I can't wait to hear more.
{{{GOOD CHIT}}} man.
Hankster

Trad climber
Eldorado Springs, CO
Mar 21, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
My thread is gone. When you get a chance, let us know.

Caylor
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 21, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
Wow, thanks for sharing this, Coz. The description in the mags at the time was way too short, and I knew there had to be much, much more to it!

Hank, your thread is still here, but I copied your posts from it into one post, on the previous page of this thread - to make sure people could find it.
Hankster

Trad climber
Eldorado Springs, CO
Mar 21, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
Fer' sure Clint, no problemo with shifting any info here, Scotts version will rock minds.

Caylor
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Mar 21, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
Nice read coz.....grammar & punctuation need work for the mags....heh heh*
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 21, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
Another Southern Belle thread is at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=278940&f=0&b=0

Does anyone know why the route was given that name? Of course, it faces more or less south, but I thought there might be a story.
T H

Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
Mar 21, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
O-M-G Thanks for that story . Forget the mags - A book is in order .
Walleye

climber
regnaD kciN's office
Mar 21, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
I don't think the moniker "cuntress" "falters" at all. Au contraire.......
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 21, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
Thanks for putting that down coz,
Zander
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Mar 21, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
Say Mr. Coz, it was cool running into yo in Josh awhile back with Beth and Al. You saw the lost arrow I had and said mayhap if yo ever had time you might help bury it in a special place where it would be "lost" forever.

If you ever have time, let me know. appreciate, lynne

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 22, 2009 - 12:42am PT
'Bout time you ponied up to ride your pen out over those memories for us Coz!!!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 22, 2009 - 01:45am PT
I looked in the dictionary under the term "epic adventure" and it pointed me to this thread. Thanks to both Hank and Coz for sharing what the spirit of climbing is all about.

Bruce
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Mar 22, 2009 - 01:52am PT
Thanks Scott, maybe I can email yo if that's ok. Lynne
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 22, 2009 - 01:58am PT
Coz, and Hank - thanks for keeping the dreams alive.
Shoot, it's been 15, 21 years and the memories of those pitches and the leadup are burned in like it was last week.
Like what Tom Higgins once wrote about how you have a limited time at your peak and you have an opportunity to create memories that will last.
To go to the edge and survive it - I think it's what we all aspire to, but for most of us the edge does not stand out so much from the routine.

I suppose my particular slant is to look at the rock and try to envision finding the route on the FA. Being a slacker in the internet age, it's amazingly easy to find good photos and play the game without even hiking up there. Here's a photo I found today and tried to match up with the topos of Southern Belle and the South Face (some of the belays may be off...):




I think you can follow Coz's description of pitch 10, which leaves the belay 9 in the "Middle Tri-Clops Eye":

"Little did I know the real amazing climbing lay above. Shultzy took off and flew up an easy but run out pitch that put us in the pot holes. Just huge scooped out holes of rock. Galen Rowel,l had said on the first ascent of the South Face that, a door would open, we'd walk inside and the key to all knowledge would be printed on the walls. But all I found was the crazed Iron Monkey with an old sling tied around a horn of diorite, that he called a belay.

I knew this was the second to last aid section left on the wall. Shultz and Walt both thought my size would help. Climbing up the outside of the first pot hole I reach up on to the blank vertical wall and found a small hole about 12 inch in diameter, pulled up, mantle, reach as high as I could and found another hole the same size. I repeated the mantle and looked in depression as the four feet to the next golden dike was overhanging and blank. I dime edged out of the hole, searched for an edge and to my complete shock found a four finger crimp. I pasted my feet high and threw a four foot dyne just grabbing the dike, mantling and walking the the top of the dike to the bivy ledge on the South face route. I couldn't believe our luck and the beauty of the line, so impossible and improbable that if just a single feature where missing it would never go free."
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 22, 2009 - 03:32am PT
Being a lover of slab climbing, this is like gold for the soul! I'll never fire something like that but even if my limit is less, this story of perserving will remain etched.

Thx Coz for posting up.

I know a lot of the guys that climbed in and spent a lot of time in Yosemite are reticent to speak up online about their climbing experiences. But it is a worthy goal. A futuristic way of rekindling the apprenticeship ways of climbing.

thx,
Munge
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Mar 22, 2009 - 03:35am PT
Awesome Coz-mamma

Nice bit of writing. I think we should all collaborate and each write a chapter of living in the dirt in the ditch in the 80's together.

cheers
deucey
T H

Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
Mar 22, 2009 - 04:28am PT
That area between Southern Belle and Karma is waiting ...
GDavis

Trad climber
Mar 22, 2009 - 04:51am PT
I remember climbing the snake dike with my brother what seemed like a million years ago (probably 5 though!). We were kinda new to climbing, and knew nothing about these routes. We were teenagers, and looked up at the South Face.

"Wow, look at that arch! I wonder if there is a route up there!"
"Nah," I told him. "Its impossible. Its too steep, no one can climb slabs like that. Maybe someday in the future, though."


Crazy.... just crazy. Always was one of the big, looming, scary faces I had seen. Up there with my first view of El Cap and flying over a 17,000 foot volcano.


One of the best peices of climbing literature I've ever read. Thanks for sharing, Coz.

Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 22, 2009 - 09:36am PT
Scott, if you ever questioned your achievement, dont.

When between myself and Dave, we had climbed almost every scary climb we could think of and wanted to do something beyond, something that would in the long run prove that the media darlings of the time were not the only ones doing scary stuff, you two entered a realm where almost no one has ever been on earth but which realm is the basis for all climbing.

A truly incomprehensibly profound experience and contribution to---I have to say it---mankind.
Hankster

Trad climber
Eldorado Springs, CO
Mar 22, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
Coz, I did the 12d pitch. Why you would put 5 bolts into a short sport pitch and then make a goofball like me run it out for 90 feet to the belay is beyond me.

What I did, for the record, is worked the 12D portion and then fired. I got gripped, and rightly so at the runout. I hung out on one of those dikes that criss cross that wall and then sh#t my way up the rest of the pitch. Alan and I were going to call it an A0. No I never did the whole pitch in 1 single push.

Coz, a well bolted 12d, (Leo thought it was 13), followed with a horrific 100 foot 11d (Leo thought it was 12) runout is just weird. You Cali dudes invented the phrase Yo Yo and A0.

Yes I sh#t myself, but I did it, and the broke my ankle/legs.

Proud climb dude, the proudest in Cali. By the way, your topo SUCKED for that route. Shipoopi telling me I only needed 1 #3 friend on Astroman was crap advice, and the beta for the BY is 11cX (take a#4 freind) is also wack! You Cali types should just try to chill, and me too!

Did I mention, PROUD Coz and CO.
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