Hey Coz, Sure would like to hear the story of Southern Belle

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 184 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 9, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
Perhaps I'm the last one to get here. It was worth waiting for. Great stuff by all...
MH2

climber
Apr 10, 2009 - 09:10am PT
^^^
Or perhaps second to last.


A damn good story.


Who would not want to swim in the gold desert?
But who can?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 10, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
Answer: Shultz, Coz, those beautiful golden worms and red serpents...
And the next Uberman who steps out to complete the thing.
It will happen.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 10, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
I went back and re-read some of what Scott wrote.

"Dave assured me the following pitch, the one Hank would get off route on and break his leg was the most scary of his life."

He says that Shultz, during the big run out pitch that subsequently Hank fell off, was yelling up to him where to go.

"I remember being lost where you were and have a shouting beta match with Shultz telling me where to go. That pitch you fell on was the worst one. I can remember every move to this day."

It looks to me that Leo or Dean found his way and Hank didn't.
This route would probably benefit from some very definitive beta on how to find one's way on that particular pitch.

Back in the day I recall oral history/beta was often very important to completing some of the neckier lines.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
above the play park
Apr 10, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
"Shultz, Coz, those beautiful golden worms and red serpents...
And the next Uberman who steps out to complete the thing.
It will happen."

--In which Roy channels Werner. gives me an idea....like the faux Hemingway contest.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
> It looks to me that Leo or Dean found his way and Hank didn't.
> This route would probably benefit from some very definitive beta on how to find one's way on that particular pitch.

I agree - an improved topo would be nice. Few may be willing to lead p4, but it would be nice if they could find the few bolts above.
I've been thinking of going to near the base with a telescope to see if I can find the bolts and improve the overlay/topo.
matty

climber
po-dunk
Aug 19, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
Sweaty palms bump.

Awesome, inspirational story.

Matt
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Aug 19, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
Hayden Kennedy, that kid who just waltzed the Bachar Yerian should go have a look.
kubok!3

climber
Austin, TX
Nov 11, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
One of the best stories I have ever read...
Hankster

Trad climber
Left Hand, CO
Nov 11, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
Micronut, I'm with you. I waltzed the BY and got schoooooooled on the Belle. I remember in Camp 4, Coz said "the Bachar-Yerian is no longer state of the art, the Southern Belle and Straight to Hell is". Won't forget that tidbit, ever!

Caylor
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Oct 28, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
Honnold and Canadian Will Stanhope have just made their first attempt to repeat this route. Saw photos from pitch 5 on facebook. Apparently tiny wires are crucial.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 28, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
God that is great to hear. I am a big fan of Alex. This is a great project for those two. Stanhope is a great choice, it would seem. Hopefully we will hear about their experience in length. The route is so important for so many reasons. Interesting that he is on it just after Leo H. left the Valley, having completed his Prophet route on El Cap and Leo having done the first continuous with Potter. I bet the temperatures are perfect today for that up there. It is 57 on the Valley floor but about 70 up on Turtleback (fall inversion phenomenon).
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 28, 2010 - 09:48pm PT
Seriously Bump for the development today
gf

climber
Oct 28, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
Hey Peter,

No slight to mr hornold, but mr stanhope is no wallflower when it comes to filling the climbing dance card-both members will bring something to the table i'm sure-pull up a chair, this is going to be inspiring.
gf
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 28, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
Absolutely, Gf. As I said above. Will is a great choice.

Here they are recently even:

bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Oct 31, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
a big day tommorrow ....
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 1, 2010 - 12:58am PT
Really exciting! Here according to Don Reid, 1998:

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 1, 2010 - 01:01am PT
Hazel is cuter than both of them. Plus she led the B-Y a few weeks ago - first female lead? I'm too lazy to trawl through the big B-Y thread to find out.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 1, 2010 - 01:06am PT
Dude she's badass. I saw that Cedar Wright squamish-in-a-day movie, she was slayin' that thin sh#t.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Nov 2, 2010 - 11:54am PT
Bump for an update???
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