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Messages 1 - 73 of total 73 in this topic |
martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 17, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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This thread could stir things up. I recently read the TR on the winter Zodiac. The description of getting dumped on by the falls, the freezing night out. There were similar descriptions on the Trip TR. In the early to mid seventies I did the obligatory El Cap walls however frankly always hated them. I remember on NA wall just being scared to death while standing on pins, and then if I wasn't leading, jugging just seemed like hard work. My partner and I had a conversation somewhere high up at the end of the day as to why we do these things. Mind you I was young and he was trying to make a worldwide name for himself (Denz). We came up with ego, nothing more or less. I read these trip reports of folks who are on their 20th El Cap route and know it has to be something else. For me I always was so charged up about a long free climb, grade V free, or frankly just cragging at the cookie or arch rock or wherever. I love the movement. The aid climbing always seemed just like work. So, explain to me, a guy who hates standing on a pin that might pop at any moment.....What drives you big wall folks to keep coming back?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 17, 2008 - 04:09pm PT
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Something about the fact that the pin might pop at any moment exites and intrigues me. It is engaing.
Other then that I really like the atmosphere and exposure up there. I'm content to sit on my ledge or belay seat just staring into the void for hours.
Something about the hard work it takes to achieve the summit and make it back to the car intact is great. The suffering makes me feel alive.
Also the connection you make with your partner/s after achieving a bigwall goal is unmatched by any other experience.
I also like to rally fast and light free climbs too...just a different mindset.
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aaronj
Big Wall climber
injured reserve
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Mar 17, 2008 - 04:42pm PT
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i like big rocks
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Mar 17, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
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because the talking tree told me to.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Mar 17, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
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Because there are spaces of time in between the wall routes I have done where I forget about the suffering, the BS, the complete boredom involved, and the fact that others are running around on beaches drinking cocktails. Its takes being back up on another wall to remember those details.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Mar 17, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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The pin will probably not pop if u are standing on it already... that is why i test to death and climb slower than a sloth smokin the crystal.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Mar 17, 2008 - 05:47pm PT
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To be in a place where nothing else matter but now. It makes me aware of how my life is not an abstract concept. Instead I am highly aware of how my life is the blood pumping inside of me, beating wild, connected, dependent, and a part of every move I make.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Mar 17, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
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because its the best way to pack the most climbing into your vacation time.
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tomtom
Social climber
Seattle, Wa
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Mar 17, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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Vertical backpacking is much more entertaining than horizontal backpacking.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 17, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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I hate wall climbing.
I can't wait to get back up there...
I always likened aid climbing to an exercise in fear. In lesser part, it's a test of your ability to engineer your way up the stone.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Mar 17, 2008 - 06:13pm PT
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becuz I'm crazy.
Wait, that doesn't differentiate very well here.
The views are incredible. You get to savor the views when wall climbing. Free climbing something big you must rush to get done.
I like sleeping on a wall far above the maddening crowd. It is more peaceful for me than a 5 star hotel. Not that I can afford a 5 star hotel.
Would I solo a wall? maybe, but I dont like climbing everything 2 or 3 times, takes alot longer.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
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I am enchanted with the improbable.
Brutus
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:12pm PT
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talking tree, also.
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kev
climber
CA
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:18pm PT
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The talking tree told me that I would like to hammer heads. Well the tree was right!
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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Haven't heard from the tree. Did a wall with a sloth on crystal, though, and he yapped the whole damn time.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
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So that explains the tree that's talking to me right now! Now I know what to do.
Fletch
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
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I used to love doing walls with pins, it was a great art stacking and nesting them. The sweet "ping" of a bomber pin rang through the air.
Now!
The world is taken over by the "Serria club climbers" and all their fuked up rules.
Blah .....
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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I told you to stay away from that Aspen!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
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he he, he said "angle."
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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Location, location, Location....
Paul
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
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Because I don't have a gun under my pillow...
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
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Paul,
I don't mean to take this thread o/t, but do you have any contact information for Robert Camp? I know you climbed with him in California, before I met him in the early 90's and after I moved up to AK and he moved to Colorado I lost touch with him. I was wondering if you'd seen or heard from him recently.
Back on topic, aid climbing is just a totally different headspace than free climbing. You carefully find a potential location for your placment, make it to the best of your ability, test it, then ease on to it. You don't totally trust the placement until it's heald you for a little bit of time, then you gingerly move up as high as possible to look for the next placement.
The single state of mind and focus in aid climbing just makes life so very simple. To me aid climbing is the best possible stress relief, because you simply don't have any place in your mind for the cares in life.
Anything worthwhile takes struggle, therefore big walls must be very worthwhile, as they take lots of struggle.
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sweatyballs
Trad climber
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
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Cuz' chicks dig it.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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Folks this is great and I really appreciate the replies... from the tree told me to chicks dig it. WB I also stood on nested leepers, scared the sh#t out of me. I think I just must be a fraidie cat. Tolman_Paul, thank you for a very insiteful response. Keep em coming please!
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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I know this thread is asking a specific question, posed by somebody with some real perspective on the issue, so I apologize if this post causes a little drift. But, I've been wondering about something sorta related. This winter I've found myself reading a bit of mountaineering literature, biographies and whatnot. Anyway, each and every one of these authors at some point, for whatever reason, simply must bring up the whole "why do I/people climb?" cliche. Why do people get so hung up on that? Are those engaged in other sports, hobbies, endeavors, pursuits, whatever, constantly and persistently asked to explain their motivations? Do people demand explanations from hikers? Surfers? Philatelists or model-train enthusiasts? Ice fisherman? Seriously, what's up with ice fishing? How crappy is your home life that you want to stare at hole in the ice all day? Kinda interesting to reflect back; I was a super-hardcore fly fisherman in high school, until a friend of mine's uncle asked me why. He was just curious and wanted to know more, but once I started to actually think about it, I realized I'd been operating with blinders on and I wasn't terribly interested anymore. And that was that. Anyway, it's great to step back and think about our own motivations and what we're doing, but I'm totally perplexed why every author of a mountaineering book feels the need to explain or justify "climbing" as worthwhile. Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:48pm PT
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Because they're there, eh?
I wonder what the talking tree said to PTPP?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:51pm PT
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As to ice fishing, I do fish, have never tried ice fishing and just can't see why, I asked a buddy.
He had a very simple answer, beer.
As I don't need an excuse to drink a beer, and would rather a drink a beer after climbing, I still haven't tried ice fishing. It was bad enough belaying my partner ice climbing with the windchill numbing my face and my fingers getting cold. At least I knew I'd eventually being doing something worthwhile eventually.
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
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Well I really do not remember as it has been twenty five years.
I will let you know after the end of this month. Weather permitting
Love Hate relationship perhaps
What else?
How fast?
How few pins can I use?
Can I make this pin work?
Can I make any nut work?
Dam Leeper pins make that stack work.
The View
The view you can only get from here. Not from the top or the base.
The unknown ok not as big as it was on many routes but it exists.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Mar 17, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
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It's the only way to get to the really good camping spots....
and the view ain't bad either.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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warbler......ditto
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Trevor
Gym climber
Escondido, CA
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Mar 17, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
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Because it makes everything else in life seem easy.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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Trevor, very good. I remember coming down off el cap and thinking that all else in life is easy. For god sakes we are walking on flat ground. I forgot about that. Excellent point.
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Darnell
Big Wall climber
Chicago
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Mar 17, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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cause thats where all the silverfish are, and silverfish are good eatin ifin you know how to cook em right!
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Mar 17, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
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Because it is the #1 place to drink beer!
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Double D
climber
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Mar 18, 2008 - 12:19am PT
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It's all 'bout location, location, location baby!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 18, 2008 - 12:44am PT
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How else you gonna be in places tha cool?
"Any of this sh#t could rip right now..."
"I could die any time.."
"This is sooo COOOOOll!!!!!!...."
"If you aren't scared you aren't really having fun.."
some of my best times have been on walls.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Mar 18, 2008 - 01:34am PT
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Well it might be simple but I climb walls because they offer solice and comfort from the world below.
I've never been very good at coping with the pressures of "modern life' and I've never fit in very well. So, going up into the vertical granite wilderness has always offered me a haven where I can just hang out and get my sh#t together so I don't fall apart lower down.
If I couldn't climb walls I wouldn't function at a very high level at home. If I couldn't find expression and exhileration in the free flow and physical form of moving up high I'd have to become violent or inflict pain on people around me.
Being able to have the freedom to climb walls means there is hope for me to become a better person and relax..........
Ahh........I feel better now.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Mar 18, 2008 - 01:37am PT
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Trevor wrote, 'Because it makes everything else in life seem easy.'
That depends on who you are and what your physical reality is.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 18, 2008 - 02:55am PT
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To test my mental endurance. This especially applies to solo walling. I am not an expert but solo 5 Vs three cap routes and a bunch of partner Vs and I still want more but the space between grows. It grows like the space between a mother and child during the individuation process. It takes a year for me to remodivate now days at least. If you dont climb .12-13 then it's the most likely way up an impressive intimidating and daunting piece of rock. I am still tring to get to the place where the journey is the destination, but I alwayse have the summit in mind from ground zero. Wall climbing is for me a means to self efficacy, it created a foundation from which I gained enough confidence to be daring in other aspects of my life. I sit in a group of Therapist or therapist to be and I wonder how may of them have been strung out three days dehydrated and burning their arms on a piece of granite thats been baking in the sun. It's then that I figgure ok I got a shot and Im not gonna shatter or combust under pressure. I now handle high intense 5150 situations like a run out pitch intentional efficiently and effectively, I know when I need help, I know what I can't do, and I know when I can handle my own. For me it has been a process of knowing myself. The day I bail because I am just not into it will be the day that I truely graduate being a climber and suddenly it has all been good enough.
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Todd Bauck
Trad climber
Denver, co
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Mar 18, 2008 - 10:54am PT
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For me it comes down to 3 reasons:
1) Soloing a wall is a big challenge. The sort of challenge you look forward to once a year. Can I get up this route clean? Can I get all my gear to the base and up a pitch by myself without feeding a bear? Can I get all my stuff down by myself? Can I climb it in good style? How do I handle the unexpected?
2) The views are great. On a wall, you have time to really enjoy the sunrise from a great vantage point. Sleeping on a small ledge or portaledge is a great experience.
3) On the rare occasion I have a partner for a wall, it is fun being a part of a team doing a multi-day route (I am slow).
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 18, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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it's bad enough to sleep in the ash pit of camp four.
getting a nite's rest up on the open stone is much more comfortable.
haven't done too many walls, but I can state that I have the book concept.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Mar 18, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
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modern domestic life is too padded. i speculate that as a species we need the stimulation afforded by challenge, fear and risk to be mentally and spiritually healthy. our society averts most discomforts at all tangible costs, though at considerable intagible costs. the walls are a sideways step in life where adversity is welcomed.
i threw up a thread a while ago about choosing hardship in order to live healthier; though some questioned my perspective,
it is one of the reasons i pursue the vertical.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?
topic_id=490922&msg=500547#msg500547
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James
climber
a porch in Chinese Camp
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Mar 18, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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The aesthetics, the beauty, the fear, the work, the partnership, and the enormity of it all.
Elaborate Klaus
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 18, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
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With out knowing why we act unconciously. Seems like knowing why provides some freedom of choice in the whole matter of life decisions etc. Being concious beings often we have choice, why not explore that??
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Offset
climber
slc
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Mar 18, 2008 - 04:43pm PT
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q: why do we climb walls?
a: to try and find out why we climb walls
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Mar 18, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
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For perspective. Trouble is that once I have that perspective I can no longer relate to those that:
1. Won't eat any piece of meat with bones in it.
2. Won't eat chicken because of the texture.
3. Will only drink bottled water, and are picky about the brand.
4. Won't pee behind/in a bush.
5. Don't understand how to crap without a toilet (seriously.
6. Sport climb (though I often wonder why the opposite doesn't happen?).
7. Won't eat a banana with any sort of blemish on it.
8. Must have the latest wizbang cell phone.
Basically too many folks I run into have never truly tasted hunger, exhuastion, thirst, or true discomfort. Wall climbing is a huge contrivance to attain those, but it does remind you to keep your perspective just the same.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jan 29, 2018 - 05:59pm PT
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Aint no wallrat but agree that the singularity and aloofy-ness linked inextricable with wall stuff allows for a singularity and a refuge pure and clean.
Human excommunication pales, confronted with the exposure and competence of self in the lone new challenge life
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jan 29, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
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I hate wall climbing less than I hate being on flat ground.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 30, 2018 - 05:02am PT
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Why do you climb walls?
'Cause it feels SOOOOO good when I stop.
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Don Paul
Mountain climber
Denver CO
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Jan 30, 2018 - 11:22am PT
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To get to the top of course!
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Jan 30, 2018 - 11:27am PT
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Because they are a fine place to drink beer.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 30, 2018 - 12:06pm PT
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I did Mescalito for my first and last big wall. I was a total blast, except for the night after the seagull traverse. It was just getting dark and my partner, Rob Brown passed me the pipe. Without thinking I partook. I went full on paranoid. I remember thinking about reversing the traverse if we had to get off. My mind went somewhere like “God dammit Kris, WTF are you thinking being up here. You're 50 years old. You ought to be sitting in the Ahwahnee drinking white wine and eating salmon.” The next day the sun came up and up we went. I never said a word about my panic attack to Rob.
It was October and the first winter storm hit the day we got down. I remember us standing in the meadow with Bridwell watching a team of three doing a very competent job of backing off from above the shield roof. Anyway I did it for the experience. It was one of those things I knew I had to do, and the right opportunity presented itself. But I like free climbing a lot better.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Jan 30, 2018 - 02:35pm PT
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According to common knowledge (as defined at Degnan's Deli), to justify an extended hang in the valley you must climb at least one pitch a day(on average). By climbing one wall a month it becomes much easier to maintain, or to exceed, the minimum daily requirement(M.D.R.) while still having sufficient time for chasing curry girls, swimming, canning and hanging at the deli
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 30, 2018 - 04:44pm PT
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What Mike said...
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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That is one of the stangeset things I have ever seen. It is also hilarious.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Why?
Cause................. things and stuff. It’s complicated.
Plaid
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Big wall climbing is something of a polar opposite to sport climbing. It's mentally committing, isn't fully in your control (weather, rockfall, etc.), and tests your resolve. I like sport climbing, although sport climbing has had no effect on who I am as a person. I embrace big wall climbing because big wall climbing has affected who I am as a person.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Walls are sport climbs now.
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Walls are sport climbs now. Some walls.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Why?
At the time it wasn't a consideration.
Looking back, it is a necessary question to ask.
At the time it was a necessity. Otherwise, I wouldn't have done it.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Like a wall bag, that's heavy.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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A mouthy wife can be a good thing.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Pretty much.
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reallyy big star
Social climber
some, place
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my cult yours current interpretation of existence is shite.
there is but little reason to strive.
we americans only imagine hardship.
make believe, need.
thus i find myself starved for challenge.
the f*#king republicans vote heavy in order to preserve their
right to sit upon their lazy fat white scared asses and shout 'i am a man.'
me? i realize my coming undone is essential to the knitting of the universal sweater.
because our's soul is cold.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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God.. so much blah blah blah
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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^^ a few pictures from this century
;)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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So awesome how Brad and Jim quietly smashed the Nose speed record, it was just another climb for Brad in a stellar 2017 year.
It's not just about the climbing of the big walls, it is about sharing the passion with kindred spirits, and enjoying the camaraderie. It's about the good times and the funny stories.
One of the funniest ass things this fall was when some Touron stopped in the middle of the road, blocking Brad in his car. Brad screamed at him out the window, told him to move, and the Touron was not only unrepentant and belligerent, but ran up to Brad's car, started kicking it and shaking it, and they were mere seconds away from fisticuffs!
My gosh, what passion from the tribe! Just another day in the Centre of the Universe.
Edit: Below Anita strikes her El Cap Summit Victory Pose, a Pose which she EARNED the right to strike. I am so proud of her for facing down her fears and who will "shut up and climb" - she is a great wall partner.
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reason
Big Wall climber
Fort Collins Co
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Feb 21, 2018 - 02:13pm PT
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I climb walls at work. So why not outside! :P
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Feb 21, 2018 - 04:53pm PT
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Feather in my cap....
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Feb 21, 2018 - 05:08pm PT
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Feb 21, 2018 - 11:03pm PT
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Why??? I think its because I get bored with life on the ground. Not that there isn't a lot to do but its just more dramatic up there. To describe it is an enigma. I like the views of course. But in some ways there is a "task" at hand and "responsibility" that is hard to replicate in the flat world. You are a technician of sorts with tasks that few can do or would want to do.
But when you are up there...no one can really reach you. They have to wait until you come down and even then they have to wait for "you" to come down. Your focus is (for me) pretty constant as gravity is constant and it doesn't ease up even when the trees look like the broccoli you might be eating. The fact you really can't bail becomes strong and is discarded. This part has translated to life on the ground more than anything else and is something hard to translate to non climbers.
So I guess thats why I climb walls but its also putting together everything I learned in climbing into one BIG piece of artwork shared with many friends who have similar tendencies
S...
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