Discussion Topic |
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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One of my all time favorite expedition accounts! Brown, Boysen and Mo bag a big one! From Mountain 52 Nov/Dec 1976.
Full size of the inset on the previous page showing the original route.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nice. I asked the crowd to post up their Fissure Boysen stories awhile back...thx
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Just read Fissure Boysen to Tradchick the other evening.I think it's my favorite climbing story ever.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
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Post a link to that thread if you got any interesting responses. I got to hear the tale straight from the man himself around an Indian Creek campfire.....More on that later.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Mar 10, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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Steve
Boysen came to Holubar (now defunct) in Denver after this
ascent and gave a tremendous slide show about this ascent.
I can still remember him speaking of his knee being stuck
in that crack. Thanks for posting the article!
SW
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Mar 10, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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"Americans would call it an offwidth crack; I called it something else"
"Mo could hardly jumar up with only a jammed knee for support, even though it would have held him."
This article has the goods!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2008 - 10:45am PT
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Climbing bump!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Dec 17, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 01:49am PT
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Vintage Trango Bump!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Boysen is 68 has had two hip replacements and still climbs 5.12 cracks and face.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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right on Steve,
one my fave's too.
thanks for posting.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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I would never have had the pleasure of meeting him or Rab Carrington if they weren't Jim's pals around the campfire out at the cottonwoods in Indian Creek. Tom Frost thinks the world of Martin, as well, having had a grand time on Ama Dablam with Jello for dessert!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That's too funny Steve. I met Mr Boysen in similar circumstances, only at the at the Superbowl. After Donini introduced him, I shook his hand and asked, "Of the Fissure?"
He answered,
"Pissoff!"
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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I remember this one well, very inspiring! 3 or 4 of those pictures do something that a lot TR photo's don't do, they give you a real feeling of the immensity and unforgiving nature of the place. Surely in the top of my fave TR's.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Would love to see this OCR'ed...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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Shame indeed! Bump!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Sep 25, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
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On the boulders around Ama Dablam Basecamp, Martin moved with the surity of a sloth. Hanging upside-down he would ponder the next move and then slowly, in complete coordination extend and twist his long body to get the maximum reach. Just there, at the end of his fingertips, would be the required hold, which he would calmly clamp, then search out the next move. Breashears and I could often follow Martin on those problems, but not with such complete control.
A dozen years later I went to Trango Tower to try to free climb it, largely inspired by that old article in Mountain mag. Gullick and Albert had already free climbed the tower via the Slovenian route two years earlier, but Catherine Destivelle and I thought we might find something better in the vicinity of Kurtyka and Loretan's route. But cracks were too icy that far around on the east side, so we settled on a new start (9 pitches) to the Slovenian route, then we finished out our free climb that way.
In the decade between the first ascent of Trango Tower and the first free ascent, even the greatest climbs in the world had focussed down to the style in which they are climbed.
-JelloFondlyRemembersMartinCatherineAndTrango
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 26, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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Thank you Jeff for sharing your Jello memories.
Jay, please elaborate about the Super Bowl. So funny.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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Jeff- Thanks for posting, as always! You two clearly had a lot on your minds with respect to style...
From Rock and Ice November/December 1990, just back from the fun.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 26, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
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A HUGE BUMP for this one! Whoo hoo, it just keeps gettin' better!
Tell us, Jaybro, tell us!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
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He let out a slightly exasperated sigh when I brought the incident up as if he was known for little else! The ignoble kneejam!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Trango Bump!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Classic article for sure. Fissure Boysen passed into legend, long ago. But for me, anytime anyone mentions Boysen the first thing I flash on are routes in Britan like "Suicide Wall" on Bosigran in the Lake District, and especially his route "The Thing" at Bowles. His article "Confessions Of A Sandstone Addict" deeply influenced my bouldering, and my belief that anything 30 feet or less is ideally, if only rarely, done without a rope.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Boysen Bump...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 18, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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No Photo of the Fissure?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 26, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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Ah yes, never thought about ctrl + "+". Great idea, works fine - thanks. Is that shortcut a new Windows 7 trick? I recently got it after struggling with [PoS] Vista for so long.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Lost again Pete or just drunk?!? LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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Burp...
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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A few years back my friend Blob comes back from England and was chuckling about Boysen getting kicked out of the gym for "unsafe" climbing practices. Martin was protecting the lead by tying off the big holds like they were chickenheads.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Best climber of his generation. Got blackballed by Bonington, which then, was your one ticket to the Himalaya.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Haha! I was just relating the story of the fissure, and meeting Boysen at the crag, last Wednesday at he crag!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
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Jim- I think Martin is half of your competition in the 69 and up NIAD adventure.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Apr 13, 2013 - 01:59am PT
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Food for thought!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 15, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Too many loser troll threads on the front page bump.
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Psilocyborg
climber
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the most beautiful thing in the world
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 23, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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Trango Extremes by Voytek Kurtyka in Mountain 127, 1989. Translated by Adam Czarniecki.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 23, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
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Another great Grossman thread.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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Nice addition Marlow!
Erhard Loretan and Voytek Kurtyka were as good as they get and certainly beyond inspiring. Very sad that they aren't still with us.
Edit: Kurtyka is still with us, Loretan is not.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 25, 2014 - 02:03am PT
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Kurtyka is still with us. There was an interview with him in Alpinist a couple of issues back.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 25, 2014 - 02:21am PT
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To my best knowledge Kurtyka is still going strong...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 25, 2014 - 02:41am PT
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Trango Pulpit 6050m, Norwegian expedition 1999, North face
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Norwegian spoken. Not texted in English.
This film is about two separate Norwegian ascents of the Trango group in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. The east face of Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent.
June 1999 four Norwegian climbers (Robert Caspersen, Gunnar Karlsen, Per Ludvig Skjerven, and Einar Wold) set out to climb the unclimbed northeast and north faces of the Trango group (Trango Pulpit, 6,050 m). The team reported of difficulties up to A4/5.11. The climb was completed after 35 days of consecutive climbing. The climbers survived the return to base camp after 48 rappels and three days without food.
"The Trango Pulpit. A journey under the skin." An article in English by Robert Caspersen.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200009100/print
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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May 25, 2014 - 09:02am PT
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In regards to Kurtyka:
I was at a cookout yesterday, and my old friend John Porter from England was visiting. Porter has gone on a few expeditions with Kurtyka, and keeps in contact with him. I had a brief but very memorable encounter with Voytech, on the Walker Spur, many years ago, and asked Porter, how he was doing.
Porter replied with a smile, " Well, he's a millionaire you know".
Apparently, Voytech's importing business has been quite successful.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
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Obviously my bad. Sorry about that but very glad to find out that I am wrong. I checked on Loretan but not Voytek.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 25, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
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Every time my random iPod shuffle brings up the Bangles singing "Eternal Flame" it makes me think about Trango Tower.
It would have been hilarious to see Gullich and Albert chilling on the ledges listening to 80s girl-pop and singing along.
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Vertikal
climber
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May 26, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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The climber Dag Kolsrud lives is Oslo and still climbs 5.12. He is no musician though. Google his name + researher and his professional info will appear.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 26, 2014 - 02:04am PT
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What Vertikal said... and I'll add: barefooted... inspired by Bernd Arnold...
Echte Elbsandsteiner: Bernd Arnold - Wege nach Innen
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
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Marlow- Would you please post that video over on the Dresden thread. Thanks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Long overdue Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
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Hey Jim- What were you headed in there to climb?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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Were you guys intent on repeating the original English route?
How did the climbing go on whatever you chose to take on?
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Skeeered
Big Wall climber
the otherside of the crack
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hell of a TR! THX for posting it back then SG
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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That video is amazing, thanks for posting! what an unbelievable place on earth to be...just beautiful...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2018 - 08:41am PT
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Bump for acres of stone...
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