Who are the old school guys still hitting it?

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rich sims

Trad climber
co
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 2, 2008 - 04:18pm PT
I am turning 53 this month. I am thinking if I stay in shape I have at least thirty more good years.
SO who is still in the game? 60 Plus
Becky
Barber?
Kor?
Frost?
Gil
Dennis Kemp RIP died at 83 I believe, still climbing hard.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 2, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
Very sorry to hear about Dennis, details?

I don't hit 52 till July, but never did climb that hard...
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Mar 2, 2008 - 04:28pm PT
Gordon, Stark and AlDude still get all Paleo out on the rocks
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Mar 2, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
I am younger than all of you therefore I rock...
rich sims

Trad climber
co
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2008 - 04:39pm PT
Russ
I will not list Gordon (Todd)
He has defiantly climbed almost every where. But sh#t he’s not old and your not that much younger than him, are you??
I am talking 60 plus Guys

Jay what I have regarding Dennis death is sketchy at best. He was at a belay climbing in Australia. Some how what he was tied into broke lose and pulled him off.
I am sorry if I am off , as I said what I know is sketchy at best.
I had the opportunity to fly any where , I was thinking about getting back into climbing and thought about looking up people who I had enjoyed climbing with,.
So I among others goggled Dennis and came up with a caving and climbing club from way back. After corresponding with club members I received an email reporting his death a few years ago.
An Australian climber who’s name escapes me Young pixie lass about 79 in the valley also came up in the google search.
L Sheppard ring a bell. Only talked d to her a time or two. I remembered being dressed down at a camp fire at the meadows and watched her take a bite out of Leroy in the lounge thou I cant say it fazed him. Nor should it have.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Mar 2, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
Rich: Gordon looks about 70... might be early sixties. I'm 39.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Berkeley
Mar 2, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
Do you have to be hard to be old school? I'm soft but 53 and still hitting it in my own humble way. Climbed my first roped pitch in 1964 and climbed my first WI5 last week - albeit with a top rope ha.

Still cranking the classic 5.9s. In fact I'm more or less climbing at the level I was at 25 - even with 30 lbs extra baggage; cams and sticky rubber make a difference.

Still hoping to solo el cap before I retire to a monastery in the Himalayas and give up on on these petty vanities. ha om...
martygarrison

Trad climber
atlanta
Mar 2, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
Hey isn't Bachar still hitting it? JB......:)
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
Mar 2, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
He's not that old...defending ya, j..not quite old dad. Bridwell should be closing in on 'Official Old Dad' status, eh?
martygarrison

Trad climber
atlanta
Mar 2, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
well you know, the new 50 is the old 40.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
Mar 2, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
I'll take a 40, new or old...
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 2, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
55 here and still at it at a reasonable level - and I suck compared to some folks I know older than me.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
marty - yeah but I'm only 39....
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:19pm PT
Don't forget Donini. 63 YO and still doing first ascents in Patagonia, crankin' 5.11 in Indian Creek and Eldo and climbing every damn day he can.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
how 'bout that 40?..
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
I'm 54 this year... still get around
WBraun

climber
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
This place is scaring me, all these old farts.

This place is Geritol Nation.

I'll finally turn 21 this summer, and will be able to drink my first Old English beer.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
It won't be your first Old E Werner.

Ken
Mimi

climber
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
But hopefully, he's had his last. Old E was always a challenge to drink IMO, unless you're on a waste mission. Maybe if they're ice cold and all you've got. They used to be 66 cents in the Valley and the cheapest beer. What are they now?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
A full page and not a word about George Lowe???
rich sims

Trad climber
co
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2008 - 12:24am PT
Ron
The way George climbs I forgot he is old enough to be in the 60 plus club .
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Mar 3, 2008 - 03:07am PT
I'm old as dirt but I thought I'd be someone someday...Day came...and,went...Still nobody.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 3, 2008 - 04:04am PT
I was in Garden of the Gods for couple of hours (not climbing) a few year back and there were a couple of guys I spoke with who were in their early sixties and appeared to still be kicking it pretty damn hard. Unfortunately I'm going senile at 55 and can't remember their names. I was impressed at the time, however.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Mar 3, 2008 - 04:34am PT
Herb Laeger is still climbing a lot, if not quite as hard as he used to.

I'm coming up on 57 and still climb pretty hard.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
Mar 3, 2008 - 07:01am PT
Bogus to Boise, indeed. Gravity riders! 1.5 uphill is all...
David Lewis

Trad climber
Northern New Jersey
Mar 3, 2008 - 08:06am PT
I don't believe anyone has mentioned George Hurley from New England who was involved in more than a few first desert ascents. At 70+ years old he regularly leads trad in the high 10s.
Tomcat

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Mar 3, 2008 - 09:41am PT
See George all the time.He had just finished a 10a FA one day this summer,then seen him guiding ice several times this season.I think he's 73 or 4.

Mr.Barber still pulls down well too.One inch swami,no springs in summer or leashes in winter.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Mar 3, 2008 - 10:01am PT
Well let's see.......
Lee Sheftel is 54 and pullin' down at 5.14
George Lowe is 60 and can still kick butt (he's just too nice to do it to your face.....).
Bob D'Antonio is ancient and still climbing hard
No one is as old as Fred Becky nor will they ever be.......
There are plenty of old Euro guys in their 60s who lead 5.13
Ggeorge Hurley is in his early-mid sixties and leads hard ice and 5.11 rock AND guides.......
Jay Smith still climbs hard, he just complains more.......

DAMN! no excuses anymore!

jack
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Mar 3, 2008 - 10:47am PT
I'll add two names.
Jorge Urioste and Bob Culp.
Both over seventy and still cranking.
Jorge has recently rekindled a passion for ice climbing.
And Bob can cruise down hill faster than an avalanche.
Both of these amazing men are role models for me.
And I sincerely thank them both for there inspiration to me.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Mar 3, 2008 - 11:58am PT
I have a friend who's 69 and still leads, sometimes 10s. He's a nobody, though, only been climbing for 50 years.

Another friend is 82 and still backpacks in the Sierras. He's my hero.
10b4me

climber
hanging by a thread
Mar 3, 2008 - 07:37pm PT
Stimson Bullitt
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Mar 3, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
Jerry Anderson


I'll never keep up with him...
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Mar 3, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
Yo.. do it while you can lads.... arthritis has my hands under its spell now and although the spirit and body are willing, climbing is pretty hard with this affliction... but I am still "hitting" other things!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Mar 3, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
way more in europe. a couple years ago i was at fontainebleau and ended up doing a long circuit with four guys who were regular partners. they met every wednesday and most sundays. the youngest one was 64. the oldest one, herve, had been in a pow camp in ww2, so i'm guessing he was in his late seventies. they all cranked--and i saw STACKS of men and women in their '60s and '70s pulling down all the time there.

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Mar 3, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
Jack Roberts is still trying to be like Bob D'Antonio use to be...not a easy act to follow especially at his age.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Mar 3, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
Keizo Miura, until he passed away a couple years ago at 101, was pretty hard core. He apparently skied 120-140 days/year until he was 99. Celebrated his 99th birthday by skiing Vallee Blanche in Chamonix and commented he was concerned about some of his friends coming along on the ski, since they were "in their 80's and not in as good shape" as he was.

His son, Yuichiro Miura was the guy who skied Everest with parachute in the 1970s and summited Everest when he was 70 a few years ago.

Old, but Not Retiring - Japan's Astoundingly Healthy Seniors Climb Peaks, Cross Deserts, Sail Seas:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A555-2004Oct26.html

Keizo Miura 100th Birthday & 4 Generations Skiing Expedition Successful - Salt Lake City, Utah, USA (photos of Keizo Miura and friends skiing)
http://www.everestnews.com/stories004sec4002/ski03012004.htm
Ouch!

climber
Mar 3, 2008 - 09:04pm PT
I went to an old school. Maybe not so old but it was kinda rundown.
DHike

climber
Mar 3, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
John Hoffman, 60's ish, sends .12+/.13's at owens. I guess that's 'still hitting it'.
adventurous one

Trad climber
reno nev.
Mar 3, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
John Hoffman- mid sixties- definately belongs near the top of this list. Saw him a couple of years ago and, except for a little more grey hair, looked the same as he did 25 years ago, very fit. He was still floating up 5.12s like he was walking up a 5.6. Never once have I ever seen the guy struggle on anything. I would not count him out doing 5.12 at 80.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Mar 3, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
I met Jimmy Dunn five years ago in Cheyenne Canyon, outside Colorado Springs. Everything we were bouldering looked like a cake walk to him, and he said he still got up into the cirques on Pikes' Peak with his lady to pull down stuff few other people bothered to climb.

Couldn't guess how old he was - one of those faces you can't tell.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Mar 4, 2008 - 12:20am PT
Damn, I had to increase the size of the font on my laptop to read all these letters...........Bob who? What? No one can beat Bob's record for first ascents in the Front Range or maybe Colorado. At least I have my own teeth, dull though they may be.

How about Roger Briggs and Jim Logan? Both climbing harder and better than most of their younger partners ..........Oh, yeah, Jim Collins. I think he can still climb.

JR
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 4, 2008 - 01:01am PT
For EKat.

Herman "Jackrabbit" Johannsen, a pioneer and prophet of cross country skiing in Canada, made it to 111. He was skiing until not long before he died. Children in ski clubs are now called "jackrabbits" in his honour.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herman_Smith-Johannsen

I don't think he climbed, but he was Norwegian before emigrating to Canada.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Mar 4, 2008 - 02:03am PT
How old is Roger Briggs now? Must be close to 60. Over 100 ascents of the Diamond and counting. Proud!
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Mar 4, 2008 - 10:16am PT
I think Roger is 57 years old............
Still crankin' hard, running hard and retired from teaching so now he has enough time to REALLY injure himself climbing.

I think there may be a few older women who are out there who can still give the guys a run for their money........

Beth Bennet is climbing hard 11s and 12 although she isn't vevry old. I think she may be 53.
SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Mar 4, 2008 - 10:41am PT
Hey Russ--wasn't Jack Benny 39 for many years too?
Of course Tom Frost did the Salathe with his son and he (Tom)
was in his 70's on that ascent.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Mar 4, 2008 - 12:29pm PT
John Fantini, an Aussie who spends a lot of time at Skaha in BC.
he is in his late sixties I believe, and leads 13a.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:49am PT
Who you callin' old ? Since when is 53 old,? That baby in the car is gonna kick your azz, foo........He's little , but he's quick.....

RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Jan 4, 2009 - 12:59am PT
Geeezus, I obviously need to get out more.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jan 4, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
Hey Jaybro
Whaddya mean, you never climbed that hard. Ha ha ha!

I'm only gonna be 57 in a few months, and though I ain't crankin'
these days (school cuts into playtime), I'm still thinkin of
days of glory (ha ha ha), once I get back out into the fray!
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Jan 4, 2009 - 12:57pm PT

I'm 54. When I boulder now it seems like I'm "hittin' it" harder than ever before!

The ground, that is.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Jan 4, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
Don't personally know anyone still climbing over 60, but plenty of peeps in their 50's are still hittin it hard.

Finn doesn't get out that much anymore, and leads 5.10 off the couch like it's nothing. (bastard)
Bill L is back leading hard at 50-something after destroying a shoulder a few years ago in a skiing accident.
And what about that Dave Hardin?
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jan 4, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
Woody's 68, I'm 58

We still manage to totter up stuff and scare ourselves every weekend.

He is trying to bribe his daughter into ropeguning though.
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Jan 4, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
Whattaya mean by "hitting it"?
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 4, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Stevedub, just stating a fact, didn't say I was giving up, or anything.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
Al Steck was still climbing hard well into his seventies. He's eased off some now, but...
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
Rich,

Frost finally gave it up in 07 according to the letter he wrote me in May of 08 he is 74 I think? A truly amazing career.Its time to hit the Gym.(Dude) if you want to stay playing in the sand box that long.

Oh,and you can add D.R. to the list he's still getting it done at 60+.

Bruce
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Jan 4, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
Love the photo of Donini! Climbed some with him in the late 70's early 80's in the Cascades: when the young punks were already nipping at his heels.

On a slow morning, we popped some beers and he showed me the boulder problems he had wired near his home.

The punks would hunt him down---then they would go for a mellow drive with a 6-pack and Jim would spy a new boulder---for the very first time;)

He would scramble it in sneakers, while the punks couldn't get off the ground.

Be respectful to us old farts----some of us are evil! Fritz!
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Jan 5, 2009 - 12:21am PT

Locker...Does she have a sister?
mission

Social climber
boulder,co
Jan 5, 2009 - 12:25am PT
Donini is squandering his social security checks on box wine and diesel fuel in Chile right now, knocking off first ascents of unclimbed peaks around Lago General Carrera and laying waste to a succession of climbing partners...
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jan 5, 2009 - 12:28am PT
While living in Idaho, I climbed several different times with my neighbor, who climbed 5.9 right up until shoulder surgery, he is 76 years old! I would say that he is "still hitting it!"

He climbed a lot in Joshua Tree early 70's.. Keep up the good work R. Bruce..


Thor
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
concord, california
Jan 5, 2009 - 12:45am PT
I'm not getting any younger but this septuagenarian couple should inspire us all...
Ejnar & Karen Fjerdingstad

survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jan 5, 2009 - 01:01am PT
Me. I'm still hittin' it.
I'm just a wee pup of 48, but it feels plenty old a lot of the time...
quartziteflight

climber
Jan 5, 2009 - 09:29am PT
I climbed with a dude at devils lake that was well into his 60's that could TR some 10's there clean. I thought that was pretty proud.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 5, 2009 - 10:15am PT
does 44 going on 45 this March count?
sometimes i wake up feeling 20 and then that evaporates with the first cup of coffee and the oneie!@#*

ks
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Jan 5, 2009 - 10:51am PT
Tuolumne_Tradster- Thanks for that incredibly uplifting photo.

-Bruce
bob

climber
Jan 5, 2009 - 11:59am PT
Mike Goff. He was in his early 60's in the mid 90's. I climbed Earth Angel with him then and spent two semesters in Baja as well. I can only hope to be half as capable as he at this point. Pretty sure he's still guiding in Seneca or was until recently.
Bob J.
Howie

Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
Jan 5, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Locker is the lady you speak of Amy?
We "invaded" her campsite pissed whilst in JT this October. She was such a great person to talk with and laughed out loud at our antics. We apologised later when she paid a visit to our site.
Saw her climbing later that week on something I would not ry.
Great lady.
Howie.
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jan 5, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
the kid~
"does 44 going on 45 this March count?"

Me too, bro 44 going on 45 this March 28th, 18 broken bones and 6 surgeries! But only three were from climbing!!!!


Thor
P.S. Have you done "Fat Cat" lately?
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Jan 5, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
I love this thread! It might get me to put the bag o' chips aside! This is like a discussion on ratings. My 59 have been hard ones, medically-speaking, so I was quite happy to go to the Big Ditch last year and, having not laid a hand to stone for 5 years (?), do a second ascent of a 10b. Hey, I never did much harder than that ever so quit snorting!

"Donini is squandering his social security checks on box wine and diesel fuel in Chile right now" - I guess that is why he hasn't answered the PM I sent him asking him for his recommendations for anti-oxidants and sunblock. Judging from that picture of him maybe I should ask someone else!

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jan 5, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
please excuse my intrusion into this thread. I am lurker these days, as I'm not much of a climber. But I couldn't let this thread go on without mentioning Mr E. Over 50 and still busting out some of the hardest El Cap nail ups, ice and hard free climbs out there.


Sea of Dreams
Talisman


back to lurkerdom
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 5, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
I remember when Harding was 48, and I considered him a living fossil. Now that I'm 57 and still climbing, I guess I've changed my perspective. I have to agree, though, that cams and sticky rubber have done much to overcome 30 or so extra pounds.

John
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Jan 5, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
I can't remember when exactly, but in the last five years Al Steck climbed Open Book at Tahquitz with Inez and me. A year or so before that Al and his son did Crimson Chrysalis.

Here's a link I found to 20 shots of Allen leading Cryptic, following Left Mel's Crack and Rubicon, among others at Josh, and Prince of Darkness. There's a few shots of some other old dads you might recognize too.

http://www.jimlawyer.com/Person%20-%20Allen%20Steck.htm
ericz

climber
Ogden, UT
Apr 13, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
Age is but a measure of the moment,... grace and awareness are timeless. Happy trails.
coondogger

Trad climber
NH
Apr 13, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
George Hurley is putting up hard 5.9 and 5.10 and still leading grade 5 ice at the age of 75. He does it in a button down shirt and tan chinos.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Apr 13, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
Don Lauria and TM Herbert are both still climbing in their 70's tho I'm not sure at what levels...
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 14, 2010 - 12:01am PT
I used to think I was old school. Then I met some real old school. Now I don't want to be in school anymore. I would like to think that I am too cool for school. But alas, this might also be an illusion.
WBraun

climber
Apr 14, 2010 - 12:09am PT
Old school is forever.

It's door you go in and out of in different lifetimes ......
Kuru

Trad climber
Arizona
Apr 14, 2010 - 03:19am PT
John "Verm" Sherman is over 50 now and still climbing hard. In the last 5 years he's had double hip replacement (simultaneously) and double knee surgery (simultaneously) and he was climbing 5.12-5.13 at Rifle last year. At 6'2 he was down to 170 pounds and still drinking beer by the bucket.

I climbed with him last weekend and he waltzed up several 11's and a 12a trad route. He's put up over 300 FA's in the last 5 years too. He's not bouldering so much anymore since the new hips though. Can't take the falls.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
. . . not !
Apr 14, 2010 - 03:41am PT
WB is . . . http://www.friendsofyosar.org/rescues/2009/2-24-09_HalfDome.html (I remember the ST thread on this one) .
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 14, 2010 - 03:44am PT
It's a different door I go in and out of many times in this lifetime. Thanks Werner, I needed that. School is forever, or at least a long time.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Apr 14, 2010 - 09:40am PT
Pat Callis is around 70ish and is still cranking rock and ice up here in Montana:-)
Chief

climber
Apr 14, 2010 - 09:58am PT
Peter Croft
Steve Swenson
Robin Barley
Andy Cairns
Rolf Ryback

I turned 52 this year and with these guys as my inspiration, am hoping to "hit it" some more before I'm done.
I'm not sure if I qualify as old school but I do feel like a relic hominid and am an increasingly irrelevant anachronism.

PB
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 14, 2010 - 10:34am PT
Don't forget Jim Wilson....... he is really old.

Right now we figure he is the "King" of Stony Point.

I find it really amazing that many many folks who started climbing in the early 70's are still getting after it.

At John's service, I noticed all the gray haired, fit people, hanging out. It is quite a contrast to a group of "normal" folks one sees in public.

Gagner

climber
Boulder
Apr 14, 2010 - 11:49am PT
I don't think I missed this one, but no one mentioned "E".

P.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Apr 14, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
wow....

Tom Frost 70ish
Phil Warrender, Rich Grigsby, near 60, Mike Waugh not far behind.
Tony Yaniro, Brian Jonas, Ron Carson, Randy Leavitt, near 50

and Gary Valle could kick almost everyones butt in the room, Running 30 or 35 miles a day in the Sierra sometimes, the guy is 64 I think. amazing.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Apr 14, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
Louise Sheppard-still climbing well. Lives in Natimuk, just minutes from Arapiles. And climbing in Arapiles is the ONLY reason you would live in Natimuk.

Gray Thompson-retired geology professor from U of M. Climbing all over the west. Heard he was just in JT tree last week. 70 something.

Arne
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 15, 2010 - 01:55am PT
TM quit. I still keep trying. TM's 74 on the 26th of April. I turned 77 last December.

I am an active Sierra mountain guide and still lead with confidence up to 5.9 and follow whatever you're willing to lead. I must admit this is no great accomplishment, but then I rarely led anything above 5.9 in my prime.

I refer you to previous entries:

TM’s ability as a climber relied heavily on his strength. For someone who never weighed more than 160 pounds he had incredible strength. I use the past tense because he has quit climbing and working in Patagonia’s shipping department is not like working out at the gym. He quit climbing when his eyes got so bad he had trouble focusing on the holds and climbing with glasses was out of the question. Last time I saw him I noticed his hearing aids and listened to his complaints of dwindling strength. If you’ve ever experienced the firm grasp of your wrist by an adamant TM Herbert, then you know how insistent he can be. I would guess that at his age he’s still relatively strong, but he’s not up to his old standards and that means he can’t do what he used to do – climb.

When I started climbing I had a rule: Don’t fall. One of the guys I started climbing with, Tom Limp, said once, when I suggested going to Stoney Point with the Sierra Club to practice belaying, “I don’t see much sense in practicing dying.”
Never been much a free soloist - the reason will become apparent as you continue this read.

I used to free solo a lot at Tahquitz – only on stuff that I had wired, and on nothing much harder than 5.7.

I was, and still am, not a very daring climber – I can recall only four falls in my entire 49 years of climbing (remember, I didn’t even start climbing until I was 29 years old, married with 3 children, and holding down three jobs). I never pushed a lead to the point where I was “willing” to risk a fall. If I didn’t feel I could make it, I backed off. Not really what you would call a “driven” climber.

It was only recently that I had a foot come off a smear on the crack pitch of South Crack in Tuolumne that sent my heart up into my throat. I didn’t fall, my fingers held, but I have since hesitated to lead that pitch even though I have led it innumerable times, often with absolute beginners belaying me.

The only time fear is a factor when I’m climbing is when I think falling is imminent. On many occasions I have “gone for it”. On those occasions I always succeeded. The four falls I took in the past were all surprises.

I was on the White Flake route in Tuolumne with Oriol Sole-Costa a year or two ago. In my foolish, and dated, familiarity with the climb I led a runout about 45 feet up and left of Oriol looking for the bolt I remembered was out there somewhere. I was stymied. Unable to ascend and positive I could not descend. I must have stood there on old legs forcing myself to be calm and commanding my knees to chill for what seemed like 15 minutes. I’m sure it was less, but Oriol insists it was 15 minutes. During this distressingly long period, I kept trying to step out left to a small black fleck – just couldn’t force myself to commit. The bolt I had been looking for was now in sight, but far left and above my position. I finally stepped out onto the fleck.

I’m 77 now and still climbing. Not leading anything harder than 5.9 and very little of that, but I’m still climbing.
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Apr 15, 2010 - 02:13am PT
Don Lauria for President!
climbingtrash

Trad climber
Virgin, Utah
Apr 15, 2010 - 08:15am PT
Bill Boyle is still doing FA's at 62...


mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Apr 15, 2010 - 10:31am PT
ionlyski (Arne), I forgot about Gray--the only time I met him was last year up at Roof Rock, he was leading a full-pitch trad route, and looking waay solid.
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Apr 15, 2010 - 10:45am PT
My friend,George Ridgely:

Scraptee

Trad climber
Tacoma
Apr 15, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
"A person is not old until regrets take the place of dreams."
John Barrymore
Attached photo stats: Average age 57, youngster of 51 up to old fart of 63. No 5.11s, lots of fun, gallons of beer, liters of wine and lots of dreams...
WBraun

climber
Apr 15, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
And this is the route for the day .... :-)

Scraptee

Trad climber
Tacoma
Apr 15, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
Yes Werner,
We surmounted the crux move with a shoulder stand...
Good one!
Terry
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 16, 2010 - 12:44am PT
I noticed the helmet in the photo above and it caused me to remember that I've only worn a helmet on one occasion. It was back in 1963 on the east face of Mt. Whitney. My recollections: I kept hitting my head on little overhanging projections - very bothersome. I haven't worn one since. I'm not saying one shouldn't wear a helmet - I'm just recollecting.

Chouinard told me once back in the early 60s, "helmets are for rock fall - so don't climb where you expect it."

Of course, this was after he and Beckey had done Edith Cavell.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 16, 2010 - 01:04am PT
Bill McConachie is 58 and still kickin' it...

top of Cosmic Wall on Mt Hubris, Castle Crags

soloing ice at Ouray
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Apr 16, 2010 - 01:04am PT
That's a great quote, Don. Thanks for the share.

Erik Wolfe (Borghoff)
Evel

Trad climber
Marijuana capital of the US
Apr 16, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
My buddy Carl is coming out for a little Colorado fun. Only 69 but still cranks it!
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
I did my first 5.12 in 1977...did my last one a week ago. I think there are a lot more on the horizon.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Apr 16, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
Heard that old Fritz was climbing well past 80 in the Gunks. Mr. Reppy did a trip down memory lane, climbing quite well, at Ragged Mtn a few years ago. There are a lot of older guides in New England keeping the faith.

Had the pleasure of climbing with a fellow that started climbing at 60+. He was leading trad 5.8 - 5.9 in his 70's, and that was impressive to me since he wasn't hanging on to his old skill, but developing new skills.

So I take heart that I still have time to work through my tick list. Probably have another 30 years or more. It is a great sport when you can share the rope with folks as old as your father and as young as your kids all in the same day.
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Apr 16, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
Yep, Fritz was soloing easy routes and following at least 5.9s into his 80s until a stroke at 82, I think, put an end to his climbing. Reppy is still climbing, George Hurley, and alot of us New England youngsters in our 60s. And it is not only well-known climbers that keep going. Out here in western Mass., Ed Daniels inspires, climbing actively and well both locally and in the Gunks at 85--and he's had a pacemaker for over 20 years!!!! And back east in the Boston area, his contemporary, Bill Atkinson still gets on the rock on occasion--and surely is still a very active presence on the climbing social scene.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 17, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
here's another 60+ guy, Tom Rogers, still hittin' it...
Tom on the sharp end, Metalhead 5.10C
Tom on Plutonics
Tom leading the money pitch on Goldmember
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Sep 7, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
Bump for updates....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 7, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
I'm afraid to out some as I'm not sure how old they are since they climb so damn hard.

j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Sep 7, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
Steve Bosque is in his 60's and just finished putting up a new aid bigwall route on lower cathedral spire last week.

Guy's a monster and just keeps on going. Wish he'd clip his tie off loops to the eye of the piton though.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Sep 7, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
60+ Bill McConachie soloing steep ice in Ouray...

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Sep 7, 2016 - 07:48pm PT
Breaking news: Donini Still A Mutant
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Sep 7, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
Donini's wife Angela posted this info on FB today about Jim's adventures in the Karakorum mountains.

phone call from Jim Donini back at basecamp having established high camp on Choktoi peak. Going for a new route in a 5 day weather window starting Thursday morning
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Sep 7, 2016 - 08:14pm PT
^^^Thats Great news!

May The Force be with Obi One Donini!
Plaidman

Trad climber
West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
Sep 7, 2016 - 08:57pm PT
^^^^^^
I second that!!!!! Twice!

Plaid
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 8, 2016 - 08:26am PT
Bob has been climbing at a high level for a long time, why shouldn't he mention that, it would seem relevant to a "climber's forum" and especially relevant to this thread, 1977 is probably before the majority of people reading the thread were born... among many of the other attributes that qualify him as an "old school guy."

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 8, 2016 - 08:40am PT
Yup, Bob is the real deal, and certainly on topic.
I don't think I led my first twelve till 1980, and it's been weeks since the last one. I've got a couple of Wyde roof projects In the .13 range, pending, getting closer all the time. And I still have time, I'm only sixty.
I'm only one of many.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Sep 8, 2016 - 08:47am PT
I saw that 6 year past slap.it was just before dawn here, it set a spark under me.
Immediately I wanted to jump to the Philly Flyers defense .
Potatochiphead, how many first assent do you get credit from others for having established ?
Okay that's not fair, you just started climbing.
How many climbs have you climbed that are Big B D'A's FAs?

Your a wee speck and should recognize that some of the best climbers
have been, evidently, Overlooked when it comes to their lasting greatness.
Greatness, defined by the quite pursuit of Quality climbs.

So if anyone of the prolific climbers shows up, with even the thinnest post.
You should consider yourself lucky.
If you do not have anything friendly, nice to add,
STFU !
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Sep 8, 2016 - 09:29am PT
Dan Dellinges: In is 60s and still putting up new routes weekly.

Larry Zulim: In his 60s and still leading 5.11 and 5.12 trad routes.

Rene Ardesch: In his 60s and still teaching the next generation out on the rock.

All great dudes. All over 2x my age :)
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Sep 8, 2016 - 12:16pm PT
Just got a note from Dick Dorworth, who advises that he just took his first leader fall in years and is beginning to realize mortality. He's 77.

Had to give up climbing years ago as the joints rebelled, but until 2 years ago, at 83, I was still ripping around the wilderness trails here on the mt. bike, terrorizing the wildlife and myself. A couple of short flights over the bars with memorable landings convinced me that I was getting as brittle as a pack of Pringles, so that's that. Nostalgia time.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 8, 2016 - 12:58pm PT
Great picture, limpingcrab!

John
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
May 28, 2019 - 01:17am PT
Update?
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
May 28, 2019 - 01:59am PT
Well, by his own count the OP should have 19 good years left. He’s squandered the last 11.

And he grossly overestimated the age of Peter Croft. He had Croft pegged for over 60 back in 2008. He’s only 61 now, the punk.
Aeriq

Sport climber
100-year Visitor
May 28, 2019 - 07:41am PT
Darrell Hensel is still putting up hard new routes pretty much every damn week.
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