Trip Report: Mescalito, El Capitan Solo

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Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2008 - 02:38am PT
Hey Peeps,

I finally got around to making the TR. Hope you all enjoy it.

Cheers!

Kia

http://youtube.com/watch?v=AkRnwO8oyBk
WBraun

climber
Feb 26, 2008 - 02:48am PT
Hahahaha

That was good, you got a good sense of humor.
marky

climber
Feb 26, 2008 - 02:50am PT
not too f'ing shabby

love how you sync image transitions to Scorpions' back-beats. Rock you like a hurricane, indeed.

But is it really "soloing" when you're hauling your huge-ass schozz? (j/k)

Nice TR. Soulful.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 26, 2008 - 03:05am PT
Nice, Kia!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 26, 2008 - 03:09am PT
good stuff, thx mang!

what did you get on before that? What solo system were you using?

whoa, what were those 50 footers about?
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Feb 26, 2008 - 07:11am PT
Hey Dude
That was a great!
I too laughed and enjoyed the humor and tunes!
Nice job
Thanks for sharing.

I've shared this before but it seemed appropriate.
DD



I was born to…

I was born to be an artist,
To paint what I enjoy,
What others admire,
To draw my future,
And others being free.
To make a collage,
And stick on freedom and life,
To sketch my imagination,
And make a huge difference,
I will color my heart
And share it with six billion people.

Jeong Min Cho,
Fourth Grade
survival

Big Wall climber
arlington, va
Feb 26, 2008 - 07:54am PT
Good Job Kia,
That was a fun TR and looks like you had a great time on the route too.
Awesome....
Bruce
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Feb 26, 2008 - 08:23am PT
Awesome!
Double D

climber
Feb 26, 2008 - 08:35am PT
Great job Kia!...classic video man.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
Feb 26, 2008 - 09:19am PT
Good job, Kia. Nice video, also. I had to lasso the prow of upper Bismark, too. Yeehaw!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 26, 2008 - 10:01am PT
Excellent, Congratulations on your climb!!
Slakkey

Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
Feb 26, 2008 - 10:58am PT
Kia,

Great TR, Excellent job on the climb and great job on the video. A lot of fun to watch.
Gene

climber
Feb 26, 2008 - 10:58am PT
Superb!

How much rum did you take?
ChrisW

Trad climber
boulder, co
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:00am PT
Friggin Hilarious. Nicely DONE. You where up there for a good amount of time. I like how u got drunk at the Bismark, so funny. THANKS for the SHOW.

Mike said "PUSHING FOR 40hrs." that's ENDURANCE.
Chris.
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:04am PT
proud ..

.. thanks for the TR ..
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:19am PT
Kia,

That was SUPER FUN! Stellar Post!

I'm at work and I got busted watching it. I couldn't help it. Right at the end when you're in the truck smoking that stogie and jamming Eye of the Tiger I forgot myself and started laughing out loud.

Congratulations on a PROUD accomplishment.

Great stuff!!!

Brad
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:21am PT
Very nice, dude. Congratulations.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:26am PT
That TR was Bad to the Bone!

Thanks for posting
cowpoke

climber
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:49am PT
very entertaining! the scorpions and steppenwolf? that's too much fun. thanks for sharing!
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
Lanham MD
Feb 26, 2008 - 12:03pm PT
SUPER PROUD! TR was great man.
Congrats!
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Feb 26, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
Nice report Kia!!!
Stanley Hassinger

climber
Eastern US
Feb 26, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
Great video! Good job, Kia. I loved how you sync'd up the soundtrack with your own singing on the Bismark. Awesome.

As I recall, when we did it a few years ago Jeff had to lasso that block, too. He tied the hammer to the end of his daisy, extended with a bunch of slings (I think). We too did not have a big bro. So Jeff got as high as the #5 camalot would take him (pre-#6 availability) and then did some funky stuff.

You drunk on the Bismark was one of the funniest things I've seen in a long time!

SH
aaronj

Big Wall climber
injured reserve
Feb 26, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
dude, i dont go around publishing my drunken ledge time. my friends witnessng it is enough. i thought thats why people solo, so that people dont know how retarded they really are.
seriously though, nice tr.
GRJ

climber
Juneau AK
Feb 26, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
Nice job, 15 days? Badass around day 4 I would have gone uber burn night climber. Props. Oh but malibu? two weeks on a wall I might have brought something a little more spunky, but I guess it did the trick. Well done.
wildone

climber
Where you want to be
Feb 26, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
Great job. Two things for you mescalites. Can you not climb a 10 inch crack? What's with the lassoing because you don't have a big bro to stand on?
Second, Kia, I hate to break it to you man, but you're tone deaf. And that's all right, because we all have our strengths and weaknesses.
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Feb 26, 2008 - 12:59pm PT
haha i've watched this thing like 50 times while you made it...but i just watched it again...great job! glad you could cut it down and get it to fit into the youtube requirements.

we have to make a TR for Tuolumne/Half Dome... that poo poo platter thing is hilarious, the Supertopoians will eat it up. and also Clyde TR.

great job

darshan
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 26, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
on Bismark ledge
having some pirate juice
listening to some tunes
got nothing better to do
but enjoy this AWESOME view.

rumsolo poetry. very inspiring. good job.
wildone

climber
Where you want to be
Feb 26, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
I liked that too.
Offset

climber
slc
Feb 26, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
great job dude...

i always like to see the sketch placements captured on film.

bitchin!!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 26, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
Great job on the climb and the vid!! How did you make the rum last so long? :-)
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Feb 26, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
Great Job Kia!

I am glad you were tied in on bismark. HaHa

Loved the TR format

Mike
Moof

Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Feb 26, 2008 - 06:54pm PT
Gotta love Big Wall Solo Karaoke!
marky

climber
Feb 26, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
fair to assume that no speed records were shattered on this one?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 26, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
kia = brilliant guy
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 26, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
Hey Kia, great job on the video! How long did it take you to put that whole thing together, must have been hours, eh?

Maybe we'll see you for beers on Sunday, eh?

Cheers, mate!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 26, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
Great Vid!
Great Tunes!
Nice Send!
Thanks!
dougs510

Social climber
down south
Feb 26, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
Hey Poop.

Don't post much, or climb, anymore these days, but try to stay involved lurking.


Awesome accomplishment, great video. All around outstanding.

Question: Did you get lonely? Seriously. I did a 5 day backpack in the high country and got lonely as hell. How did you deal with the time alone.... or perhaps it didn't bother you. In any event, I'd enjoy some of the mind psyc you were involved with.

Congrats,
Doug
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
Kick ASS Kia, way to go.

Best "TR" in a long time!
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:22pm PT
That was all kinds of awesome Kia. Really nice production (and climb!!).

Warning to anyone watching this at work, beware around the 6 minute mark when he starts singing along to Whitesnake (after a few hours of rum swilling it seems). It's hilarious but I started laughing so hard I busted myself watching this.

Congrats again on the solo and the great TR.
pimp daddy wayne

climber
The Bat Caves
Feb 26, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
Dude you got DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2008 - 01:49am PT
Hey everyone, thanks for all the congrats! It really means a lot. Every one of them. So glad you all found it humorous.

"what did you get on before that? What solo system were you using?"

The hardest wall I did before this one was Ten Days After, solo. I used a gri gri.

"whoa, what were those 50 footers about?"

They were both from hybrid aliens popping out. On the first fall I flipped over backwards when the piece popped and sent me sailing down head first. I remember almost as if it was in slow motion. I watched the anchor between my feet get farther away. The second one involed the alien popping out after some hook moves and weird placements. The piece that held was a mank pin. I put a sceamer on it and it deployed. As soon as the alien made that unmistakable "pop" sound, my instant reaction was to look back to see what my last gear was. I saw the sceamer on there and felt a little better and enjoyed the ride. When the fall was over, I asked myself, "I wonder if I freaked out any tourists?"

"Kia's next grade 6 was done fixing two then pushing for 40+ hours."

True, but I was climbing with badasses Mike Ousley and Kris "Zepher." I lead the two easliest pitches one of which I had a mini epic on after taking a whipper. Had a blast up there with you bros!

"How much rum did you take?"
"Oh but malibu? two weeks on a wall I might have brought something a little more spunky, but I guess it did the trick."
"How did you make the rum last so long?"

It was 1.75 liters. It wasn't all Malibu. Actually, I mixed some other hard stuff left over from one of our parties with it. It was still pretty flavorful though. I didn't even consider drinking the first few days. I was to terrified that it didn't occur to me. Plus, many times I was so tired that once I got the ledge set up I would just fall asleep. It wasn't until I talked to Mike that I had a drink and was able to relax. After that the climb took on a whole new perspective. The fear was still there, it never went away, but I began to have some real fun too! To make the most of the booze i would only have it on an empty stomach to make full use if its effects ;-)

"What did you produce final vid with, Kia?"

I used ProShow Gold. It has options on how you want the final output to come out. I made it into an mpg.

"Hey Kia, great job on the video! How long did it take you to put that whole thing together, must have been hours, eh?

Maybe we'll see you for beers on Sunday, eh?"

It took me a few days of work. I almost lost motivation to finish it it took so long. I think most of the time I was learning to use the program. I'll let you know if I can make it up there.

"Question: Did you get lonely? Seriously. I did a 5 day backpack in the high country and got lonely as hell. How did you deal with the time alone.... or perhaps it didn't bother you. In any event, I'd enjoy some of the mind psyc you were involved with."

I never felt alone. One thing that amazed me was how much life was up there on that stone. All those frogs. I found myself talking to them. I even asked one to move deeper in the crack so I can make a placement. And all those sparrows flying around my ledge. I apologized to them if I climbed a crack that they were nesting in. Then at night there were those silver fish. Going nutty? Perhaps? There was a lot of solitude on the first few days on the climb. I was the only one on the stone. Reason being that it was so friggin hot. A couple of times I passed out for a few seconds while on the lead because of the intense heat. When the temps cooled. Other parties showed up and I would do my monkey calls with them. Props on the 5 day backpacking though, that seems way lonlier!

Cheers!

Kia

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Feb 28, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
Awesome. There's pretty much two kinds of people in the world; those who have soled a big wall, and those who have not. A great window into the temporary madness.

Way to go, man! and thanks for sharing
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Feb 28, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
way cool p_t, I hope to follow in your footsetps this spring!

been wanting to do Mesc for years, and year after year plans with partners kept falling through. guess that means I should just sac up and go it alone.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Feb 28, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
Way to go Kia! You have climbed El Cap, you are a real climber now.
Offset

climber
slc
Feb 28, 2008 - 03:40pm PT
there are two kinds of climbers that have soloed el cap. those that have made a good video of said send, and those that haven't
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 28, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
selfish tantrum bump
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2008 - 10:46pm PT
Thanks again hommies. Thanks Dave E. Your ascents have always been an inspiration to me.

I have to agree with Mike. I almost did Zodiac to say that "I soloed elcap" until he talked some sense into me. Doing something on the big side is different. It was cool to be up there suffering for weeks and watching people on the Zod top off lower than me after 4 days or so. Still a great feat and congrats to them but size matters, PERIOD!

Let me know when you are gonna be up there Lambone. I'll get on the radio with you.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 29, 2008 - 02:53am PT
arise
Carl

Trad climber
West Bountiful, Utah
Mar 1, 2008 - 12:30am PT
I didn't see your TR until just now. I hope more climbers will see this, great climb and great presentation.

Carl ...
salad

climber
San Diego
Mar 1, 2008 - 02:24am PT
nice job man....
sunshinedaydream

Big Wall climber
yosemite area
Mar 1, 2008 - 10:28am PT
Awesome TR! Nice work Kia!

Hey I still have your stove you left last fall. Let me know when your back in the Valley and I'll bring it by.

Jess
Crimpergirl

Social climber
St. Looney
Mar 2, 2008 - 11:44pm PT
I missed this until today. Happily, another poster told me to check it out since the TR and the video are both so well done. Great job - I so love the drunken moments, the photos of fear, and shots of gear and the valley. Thanks!
Yaro

Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
Mar 4, 2008 - 11:57am PT
Great trip report, Kia! Thank you for sharing!
Weenis

Trad climber
Tel Aviv
Mar 4, 2008 - 12:41pm PT
Yo Poop-Tube, Great work! Good to see people so inspired. Mescalito was my first Captain route in February, 1980. I did it with the notorious Jeff Smith. We had some early #1, 2 and 3 Friends along with a stack of pins. It snowed nearly every day and we'd get pinned in our hammocks; pre portaledge days. I could go on forever about it but the one thing that stands out was the bivy at the Molar. It's dark, snowing and I'm dreaming of a warm place. I'm shaken to life by falling back on the anchors as the wind keeps lifting me up and dropping me. After seven days we crawled over the top and then very nearly died on the way down. Nothing in life has ever been as difficult. My camera and film were lost on the descent so to watch your great video this morning was a real blast from the past.
Thanks for the great effort, peace be with you.
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Mar 4, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
Nice work. You should be proud.

Prod.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 4, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
That was great! Congratulations.
L

climber
Malibu, baby....in a Cheetah shirt
Mar 4, 2008 - 06:04pm PT
Wowza Kia! Great TR!
Burns

Trad climber
Nowhere special
Mar 4, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
Nice work. 15 days? I was about ready to jump off after 4.
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
Mar 4, 2008 - 11:10pm PT

That's great adventure, and done in great style. Nice storytelling, too.
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
Thanks again hommies. Thanks for sharing that Weenis. Cool Jess! didn't know you had the stove. I'll let you know when I'm in the valley. Thanks!

Since I got such a positive response from so many I might be motivated to make more videos. It's just so time consuming and I'd rather spend my weekends climbing. We'll see.
Jordan Ramey

Trad climber
Oklahoma City, OK
Mar 5, 2008 - 02:48am PT
Best TR EVER!! Serious congrats. Makes me want to get out and finally solo something big!
Yaro

Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
Mar 5, 2008 - 01:56pm PT
Happy Birthday Kia! Wish you to do more climbs like this one.

/* thought it's a good excuse to bump this cool TR again */
Gabe

climber
San Clemente, CA
Mar 19, 2008 - 01:10am PT
Happy B-Day Kia! Great job on the big stone and thanks for posting such a fun report. When's the next one coming now that your up a click on the calender?

Cheerz Kia! OOoohhhhh!! Gabe
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2008 - 02:03am PT
Yo Gabe!

Thanks bro! Got your email now. Great that we finally met in person and binged on PIRATE'S JUICE. AY MAYTEE

next TR will be electric ladyland. Just started on it.

Hope we can go up the column soon with Mike and Kris. It's about time for some SUFFERING.

OOOH

OOOH
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 30, 2008 - 06:18pm PT
Kia's stellar TR
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
haha

found this:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=399999&msg=399999#msg399999
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 1, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
Fine Job on the climb and video! You only left out the "How do you go to the bathroom" part. The Pooptube must have weighted a TON at the summit! It's your avatar after all.

Bold and fun

Peace
Karl
Hoots

climber
Tacoma, Toyota
Nov 15, 2008 - 05:35pm PT
BUMP, cuz I like watchin climbin.
Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic
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