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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Feb 25, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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Thanks for the great pics... I've got to get on that route one day...
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
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Last one of my decent headwall photos. This is Jeff leading the last pitch of the headwall. I think after this it was just one more pitch to chickenhead ledge.
Ok, now that I've mentioned it I might as well include one of the oh so sweet chickenhead ledge.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Feb 25, 2008 - 09:36pm PT
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Anyone else notice the increase of vegitation around the base of the Captain in the first picture compaired to the one taken in the 70's by Braun? Not sure if that's a good thing or not.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 25, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
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Sorry, Stanley. I'm really not arguing with Ron. I like Ron. Just making a point and that doesn't always come out right online.
Regardless, I digress. And I apologize for the hijack. Carry on with the awesome pics of The Shield Headwall! =)
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Feb 25, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
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What a steller place to get to visit
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2008 - 10:18pm PT
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No worries, Nefarius.
Cool picture, T2! When was it taken? Is that another party behind you guys low down on the headwall?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2008 - 10:38pm PT
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Sorry to redivert from a celebration of the communal unspoken chipping project, but "constructive scarring" referred to minimizing the detrimental effects of unavoidable nailing.
I was not, for the umpteenth phucking time, ADVOCATING scarring.
(Now lets confuse this further by bringing in drilling why dontcha! Sheesh.)
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Feb 25, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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Stanley: I believe we did the climb in 98' I remember blasting the day of Walt Shipleys memorial. I was fortunate enough to get to lead the whole climb, what a gift for such a beautiful climb. Yes that is a party blow us that had just turned the roof pitch. I think that picture of yours on your blog turning the roof is a outstanding photo.
Mike: We should meet up with our friend Ammon sometime soon. Do you surf? If so lets go surfing near Ammon and Gabes.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Feb 25, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
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I hope to go up ther some day and slam a few pins in that beyutiful crack! ;)
..and Mike. Fix your piture!
The shot straight down between your legs on the portaledge is my favorite all time EC picture.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 25, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
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Charlie Porter on the Triple Cracks during the FA, 1972 - photo by Gary Bocarde
from
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=ybelshie&n=2
The article "El Cap Update" and photos I remember were in Mountain Magazine, with Burton and Sutton on the second ascent, where Sutton used many knifeblades with red tie-off slings in a row (vs. RURPs for Porter on the FA). This is photo #59 in Yosemite Climber, but there were other good photos in the Mountain article.
By 1975, I heard it was "beat-out" already, taking baby angles.
The pin-bashing up there is a touchy subject. People just have to do it as clean as they can. Carrying pins doesn't mean you have to use them or beat extra hard on them. Doing the route entirely clean could be a tall order, but people shouldn't feel too defeated if there are a couple of placements they can't manage clean. It might be good if people reported which of the headwall pitches they were able to do entirely clean (with existing fixed gear), or how many placements they had to use a hammer on for the other pitches. That would give others a standard to compare with.
I remember before I did it in the late 80s, there was a story about how somebody had zippered the A3 groove pitch. I led that pitch almost entirely clean, using TCUs, nuts and fixed gear, plus resetting a couple of the fixed heads that had loosened over the winter. The crux was threading the hole on a fixed RURP - I used the very thin wire of a tiny steel nut.
In photo #8 of the supertopo photos linked above, the caption reads:
"A climber in the middle of the notorius Groove Pitch during the last rays of light of The Shield. While the crack appears big from a distance, it actually only takes copperheads, birdbeaks, and knifeblades."
I swear there was some clean gear on this pitch.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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Oh .... so it's this one .....
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Double D
climber
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Feb 26, 2008 - 12:27am PT
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Sahweeet photo Werner!
Kevin...how cool that must have been to watch! I always regret not doing an early ascent of that thing when it was still a rurp crack.
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 26, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Approach pitch to the Shield Roof:
Cleaning the Triple Cracks:
Shield headwall bivy view in the AM:
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Feb 26, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
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Is this thread done? Really? Sorry the first one is poor quality. It was a throw away camera.
danglefest on the roof
Close-up of our bivy at start of triple cracks
I could look at shield pictures all day.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 28, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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Me too. Ok, this one's back on the list.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 28, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
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Walleye,
Story please.
GM
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 28, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
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He kinda looks like Rob Yang (rhyang). Pre-accident, of course! =)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 28, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
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ahhh...
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Mimi
climber
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Spike Davis, 1987. What a great route! Thanks to Photoshop Elements, I was able to rotate the slide correctly.
Hanging out above the Groove at 3:30 in the afternoon. Nobody else on the wall, beautiful day!
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