The Porcelain Wall - Yosemite


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Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2008 - 12:08am PT
Yeah, this thread has been a lot of fun. Here are a few more.

FA of SKY IS FALLING, July, 1998

Klaus on the garden ledge, four pitches up, packing his precious cargo.

EK battling bushes. Not long after this photo was taken, while battling the upper bush in the photo, the cam that Klaus was hanging on popped and he went for a ride. He turned sideways in mid-whipper, hit the small ledge to his left in the photo, and finally stopped about ten feet above the main ledge. When the rope came tight, I was violently dragged several feet across the ledge. Klaus had smacked his head on the ledge part way through the ride; when he got back down to the ledge, I could see that he was bleeding. I was worried that he was hurt but he just wanted to sit down for a few minutes and take a couple of shots of vodka. Then, he got right back on lead. Later, he realized that he suffered a minor concussion in the fall. It amazed me that this didn’t slow him down much more than it did. Insert definition of “hardman” here.

EK cleaning pitch 6 in the evening.

EK nearing the belay on pitch 9.

Will it hold? EK and knifeblade, pitch 10.

More nailing, pitch 10.

EK checking out what lies above, pitch 10.

Beginning pitch 11; EK at belay 10.

Looking down on pitch 11 where we joined the Harding route. EK at belay 10. There were a few remnants on this part of the Harding route – a couple of z-mac rivets with plumber’s tape hangers… Yum, yum…

EK setting up his ledge at belay 10. When I yelled down to him that his traverse pitch was blank, he was bummed. By the time I had finished placing the belay bolts, it was getting late. He didn’t feel like cleaning the pitch in the dark and I didn’t want to have to jug back up and climb the pitch twice. So I hauled my bag and ledge and bivied above while Klaus bivied below.

Setting up his ledge.

The next morning: Going left where Harding went straight up.

Obligatory Klaus swilling pic, 24-ouncer, belay 12.

Portaledge chillin’ and rivet ladder on pitch 13.

The view from belay 13 – not bad.

Nice place to spend an afternoon…

Belay bolt and lichen, belay 13.

EK cleaning the final pin placements of the route. This was another great pitch – a couple of hook moves to beak seams that were connected by horizontal hook traverses, followed by a sweet bugaboo splitter to a cutter summit.

The summit anchor: two arrows and two bugaboos. The wall was still in the shade when I was finishing this pitch. I remember standing on the last pin and reaching up to grab the lip. I could feel the warmth of the sun on my fingers. A few more steps up in my aiders brought me to an incredible view of Half Dome and the high country of the Clark Range. Woohoo! What a summit!!! Later, while we were unpacking our haulbags, I encountered a stuff-sac that was buried in the bottom of my bag. “Ho, what’s this?”…I thought as I felt a couple of cold cylinders. Score two OEs that I had forgotten about, to contribute to our summit celebration!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 27, 2008 - 12:14am PT
Thanks - an excellent thread, one that will fit well in the putative index of classic threads. And some pretty amazing adventures and stories.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 12:14am PT
That was a good one, eh, Minerals? Actually, though, they all are ....Troy & I dug going up to the base with you & EG, the strange world team. T'was a serious pile of oe's at the base there. Good days, good friends....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 27, 2008 - 12:40am PT
Wow, thanks for taking the time to create all that and share it. The colors are dazzling and the trip report gives a great perspective on what it was like on your day on Agent Orange! Pretty darn cool.

right here, right now
Feb 27, 2008 - 12:53am PT

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Feb 27, 2008 - 02:07am PT
Awesome pics Bryan, great story too.

I can't wait to see more.
Thanks for sharing.

Trad climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 02:13am PT
kick ass thread!!


right here, right now
Feb 27, 2008 - 10:42am PT
Nice photo of Walt back there.
He may be gone, but I couldn't get him outa' me if I tried.

Big Wall climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
Yo BLaw, Really good job on the Agent Orange Report... Amazing photos and writting... Thank´s for putting this thread together.
Eric Kohl, nice photos from the FA´s. Proud send...

Peace you all... Nick

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 27, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
Wow! Great writing and photos, Bryan. Thanks for making what must have been a substantive effort putting this all together.

I can't believe you left the bit in about tossing beer cans and sh#t bags.

Klaus is insane to be up there without a helmet - he's lucky he didn't kill himself hitting that ledge. I would never climb on a big wall without a helmet - I have too few brains to spare.

la la land
Feb 27, 2008 - 04:58pm PT
Is that whiskey in his bottle?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 08:59pm PT
beats politics and cat baths

Feb 27, 2008 - 09:04pm PT
Great thread and awesome photos, thanks Brain and Eric.

Real good sh'it man ......
mark miller

Social climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
Having met Klaus, I can say he is definitely the "Rat Terrier" type. You could kick him across the room and he'd still come back saying "is that all you got?". Warren was similar, as a brawler you could just tell these phuckers (even though 50lbs smaller) would be a long night..That's what made them hardmen fer sure!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 10:41pm PT
Plus if you tell Klaus that he'll die without a helmet, he'll respond with 'so what's it to you?'.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
really is better than cat baths, politics and hiking.

Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Feb 27, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
Agreed, but cats are tasty, really...I never saw a stray in Korea.

The Eye of the Snail
Feb 28, 2008 - 12:08am PT

Feb 28, 2008 - 12:44am PT
The purest ST gold, right here. Bad Ass. Thanks, guys.

Hey, WoodySt, Juan DeF*#kNut, dirtbag, HKnott, et al. Do ya see this? This is what makes up for your lame OT sh#t.

Feb 28, 2008 - 01:12am PT
This wall has some staying power!

Love that red lichen. Thanks for the pics/TRs guys.
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