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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 22, 2008 - 02:43pm PT
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Overhang Bypass Trip Report, Fall 2006
We did this climb during the 2006 Cleanup. We cleaned on Saturday and climbed on Sunday. I was feeling pretty low key. Bob wanted to make a run for Mt. Goode but I was too lazy. We decided on Overhang Bypass. We didn’t have the topo but I had pretty much memorized it. Though as it turned out I hadn’t memorized the approach . Here’s the route.
You turn to the right at the Valley Trail not the left.
Here’s a picture looking back over my shoulder which has nothing to do with this TR but is so pretty. Ed and Gary know what’s over there.
Here’s three nice pics on the alternate approach. 5.6 loose.
Once back on the actual approach route we wandered up until it seems fifth classish. Here’s a pic of P2. We ran one and two together.
Here’s a pic of P3 as you bypass the overhang.
Fun, mellow climbing to the Hog Trough.
P4 is the crux. The one crux move is A1 if you are 5’6”, 5.9 if you're a stubby 5’9” like me and 5.8 or probably easier if you're 5’11”. It was starting to drizzle so Bob swarmed the move on the run. I’d like to say so did I but, oh well.
Here’s a pic looking up above the big ledge.
It was raining now so what would be pretty easy 5.7 while dry was now giving full value.
The next pitch has a cool hand traverse into a nice dihedral. At the top of the dihedral I noticed that Bob had spilled his chalk bag. Until I tried to mantel onto the wet green slime. It was kind of hard to fit my hand and foot onto the little pile of chalk but I made it.
Here’s a pic of the slabs on the second to last pitch. It had stopped raining for a while. I was kind of happy about that.
Here’s a pic at the pools in Bridal Veil Creek. A beautiful place.
Here’s a couple of pics on the descent down the Gunsight. It was raining again.
See y’all.
Zander
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Feb 22, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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I am stir crazy and that TR is just what I needed. Great of ribbon falls
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 22, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
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Very nice! Looks fun!
burp
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 22, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
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Thanks Zander! Been meaning to do that one of these days.
Jeff
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Feb 22, 2008 - 03:04pm PT
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Looks like a piece of sh#t route to me. How many stars would you give it?
Juan
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Patrick Price
Sport climber
columbus
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Feb 22, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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looks lik a bush wacking good time!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Feb 22, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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geeze, that looks horrible.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Feb 22, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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Man!, that 2nd pic is one of the most beautiful inviting pictures I've seen lately!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 22, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
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Back in red-guidebook days, that was one of Roper's recommended Grade II's. I always meant to do it, but never quite did. Looks like fun!
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Feb 22, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
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Thanks Zander!
Looks like a fine adventure.
You're right about the dizzying signal to noise ratio that has permeated this place lately.
Brad
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 22, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
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Did the route in 93 or 94. Recall it as sorta fun.
Views of El Cap from the top are excellent.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Feb 22, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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Thanks Zander. I was gonna try that last year but did something else instead.
Life is bad crazy right now at work. Twas nice to see shots of you and Bob.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 22, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
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The Roper green guide calls this "one of the most popular routes in the Valley." My, how tastes change. I enjoyed it back when it was a II, 5.6. Similar obscure routes that offer fantastic views are the Lower Brother SW Arete routes in the green book. The view both up and down the Valley from the LB are well worth the effort.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Feb 22, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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Thanks Zander. Looks like you got full value on the approach too!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Feb 22, 2008 - 05:53pm PT
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You mean like this view?
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L
climber
Malibu, baby....in a Cheetah shirt
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Feb 22, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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Great photos Zander, and Spyork, that last one made my day. Thanks!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
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Yeah, the rock is at times funky. Three of the pitches have “good” rock, the hog trough, the crux pitch and the traverse/dihedral pitch. I didn’t take pictures of the best rock because I had something else on my mind, I guess. It’s like eKat said, this route is more about getting off the ground having fun in a cool location. A little adventure.
Walleye, I didn’t take a picture of where the death block fell out. The rock is now really clean there. Even from twenty feet away you can see the move. The pro is good, a recent piton down low, an optional out of the way #1 Camalot and a #3 nut right at the move. Good exposure too.
See ya,
Zander
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 22, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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I've done the route twice -- once in the days of the Red Roper guide, and once about eight years ago. I'm about 5' 5" and the crux was VERY reachy and quite hard the second time. The first time (can it really be almost 40 years ago?), the block that covered this area was easy and not even that scary. Both times I thought it was scenic, enjoyable, and mostly quite easy.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Feb 22, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
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Thanks for the photos Zander I've always wanted to do that route but couldn't convince a partner. Now I see why.
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Jacko
Trad climber
Grass Valley Ca.
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Feb 22, 2008 - 10:26pm PT
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Thank's Zander,TR's are the reason I tune in and you have put out some great one's...Jacko
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 02:52am PT
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Damn, this just grows my hard-on for a route in the ribbon falls area and in the bridalveil area. Best perspective I've seen on the ribbon falls area (except maybe some low aerial ones). Nice job Zander. I explored the Gunsight in December from bottom almost to the top, and that would be darn dicey while wet... multiple rap spots in wet conditions.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 06:49pm PT
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thanks Zander, and those views of Chockstone Chimney almost make me want to go do it again!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 23, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
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Did this climb once (onsight solo) after living in Yosemite forever and finally thinking (this climb keeps getting recommended in books and guidebooks, but I never hear of anybody doing it)
I thought the approach sucked, and the descent and stuff is long compared to the actual climbing. The actual climbing isn't too good either.
Still, it gets overall points for being a trad adventure, having a real summit, and old school bonus points to boot.
Wonder what else is around there that's undiscovered?
Peace
Karl
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 23, 2008 - 09:12pm PT
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Overhang Bypass? What a pile.
I always just went Overhang Overpass ....
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 28, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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just sayin
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2008 - 09:01pm PT
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Hey Wade,
Just sayin' what? ;-)
Werner,
I'm the master of climbing pile.
Of course with my ability that's about all I can climb.
Zander
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Feb 28, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
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do it for the swimming holes at the top
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 28, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
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Few pics from when we did the route in June '93 as part of a fun bachelor climbing weekend for a buddy of mine. Looking at the pics again after all these years, it's surprising how ledged out and brushy the route looks. So I included the pics that make it look more rock-worthy!
Da Loobsta headed up the first pitch.
My buddy Tim leading the 2nd pitch, "Hog Trough"
Tim cleaning the crux 4th pitch.
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Feb 28, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
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great reminder of YV select improbable gems. Good candidate for the next Yose topo book: "Gold Diggers Guide To Yosemite" . . ."for those about to thrutch"
thanks for the photos zan.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 12, 2011 - 04:20am PT
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Did this climb once (onsight solo) Rad. I wish I could solo it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 17, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Zander-
I did this route back in June, 1965 on my first-ever trip to the Valley. It had a good rep BITD. The hog trough is kinda fun, and there's a couple other redeeming pitches, too. The approach is kinda' sucky, though.
Another highly-regarded climb then was Arches Terrace, another of my ascents that trip.
Rodger
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 18, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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I have a question for folks who've done this route. Did you go straight up the clean slabby dihedral that is the specific formation I think they call the "hog trough"? Or did you traverse left a ways past a bolt and do a little spooky mantel or couple of steepish face moves and then traverse back right on easier less steep ground, meeting the top of the hog trough?
In any case, I loved this route, missed the Zander adventure approach, but found our own adventure approach. I recall some "you will die if you fall on this" moves in hiking boots while off-route on approach via bushes and blocks to the left of Bridalveil Fall (maybe in the same vicinity of Zander's start, but tough to say). Somewhere there's a TR for the day that started with an attempt on Bridalveil East & Midget Chimney.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 18, 2011 - 12:11am PT
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We climbed the nice clean dihedral; Roper's guidebook used it as the definition pitch for 5.6 BITD. Of course it's going on 46 years now, and maybe senility is setting in?
There's a nice lieback crack in the dihedral; never seemed very hard at the time, but I've been in no hurry to go back because of the approach and descent. Triple YUK!
Added as a P.S. in Edit: I climbed the route with Peter Williamson (RIP) who drowned in Bridalveil Creek after completing a climb of the Leaning Tower in ~ 1975.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Brokendownclimber,
I'm sorry about your friend. We all have to be so careful out there. It isn't the climbing that will necessarily get you.
Nutjob,
The approach is pretty easy now that I know. When you are looking up at the route go to the right of the buttress to approach just like it says in the book! Who knew? Look up at the roof you are going to "bypass". Move straight up to it and then just below it move left into the Hog Trough. Climb the route to the top. It is actually pretty simple if you don't decide to wing it without the guide book. He he.
Zander
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 18, 2011 - 10:32am PT
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from the 1964 Roper red guidebook:
This is probably the most popular route on the South side of the Valley
The famous Hog Trough pitch was rated at 5.5, and the 5.6 moves on the climb were about a lead or so higher. I recall that Pete led the Hog Trough, and he was really pissed that I got to lead the crux a pitch later. We did the godawful Gunsight descent. Another reason to avoid this "popular" (BITD) climb! Yuk!
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