Discussion Topic |
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 21, 2008 - 12:42pm PT
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No contest here, just memories. The ad is from Mountain 106 (N/D 1985) and the boys in training is mid'80's.
Any other C4 training shots out there?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2008 - 11:15am PT
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Come on then... where are the old fingertip board, climbing the rope ladder in an ell, pull ups with 40 pounds of C4 dirt hanging in water bottles at your side shots?
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Feb 22, 2008 - 11:32am PT
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I need one of those kits.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Feb 22, 2008 - 11:53am PT
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Who's the surferboy in the ad?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Feb 22, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
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We used to train on a "pegboard" in college and made our own pegs on a lathe for that purpose. I even made some that were angled like ice tools. Prolly horrible for the elbows, but it seems like it really got us strong for lock-offs.
Basically a board with a parallel set of vertical 1.5" holes. These still around?
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dfrost7
Social climber
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Feb 22, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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Those bring back memories. When I worked at 'gonia they were installed at several locations in the distribution center, along with peg boards and a really nice pullup
thing (more like parallell bars). There was a free standing climbing wall outside (with wooden holds). Then we got a new CEO and one day they were gone.
Just like that. I love the "whether your standard is 5.2 or 5.10"
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Feb 22, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
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I need one of those kits.
Make your own. The rungs had steel inserts for the set-screws that pinched the rope in the holes. Allegedly, this system allowed adjustment of the rungs, as if that were necessary or desirable.
Almost every Bachar ladder I've seen in the real world was homemade. People would just drill 1" PVC water pipe and tie knots in their old ropes.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 22, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
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I'm going to be making one from closet rods, I don't plan to make it adjustable on the rope.
I did put together a campus board, but figured out I'm further out of shape and overweight than I thought.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
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Here's a couple from C4:
Not sure what this training is for...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 22, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
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If anyone is seriously considering building a Bachar ladder for training purposes, permit me, with all due respect to John, to suggest that a gym climbing rope is a better training tool.
I could go on and on about this, but will spare everyone the dissertation, because nowadays, even mentioning such upper-body training elicits a flood of negative responses about how climbing-specific methods are so much better. I'm not personally convinced there isn't a role for supplemental training, but after a while arguing with true believers does get a little tiring.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Feb 22, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
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Hey Bacher. Did you ever get any coin from letting them use your name on this thing?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 22, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
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Not Camp 4, but Camp FISH in the 80's.... Tarbuster on the route.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 22, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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The wooden version was the best. The rope ladder is good if you need something portable, but watch out about doing too many descents (too many negatives). I like the ladder over the rope because I think it simulates a climbing position more accurately - like grabbing jugs on an overhanging wall or something - just my opinion....
The rope ladder has to be strung very tightly to be nice - not like in the Chouinard ad. I used to use a double pulley and jumar system to get that baby strung. 15 degrees overhanging is ideal.
Don Best in the Toulumne Rescue Site.
Does anybody still have some original Chouinard Bachar Ladder rungs? I'd love to get some.... jb
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Bilbo
Trad climber
Truckee
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Feb 22, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
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I have the original full set as seen in the ad...fun stuff.
Not for sale though.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 22, 2008 - 01:39pm PT
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John,
What was the name of the short movie about you soloing Oz on the drug dome? I remember the bit of you working out on the ladder and pullup board.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 22, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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I like the ladder over the rope because I think it simulates a climbing position more accurately - like grabbing jugs on an overhanging wall or something
It is true that the wrist position on a ladder is more like that on overhanging face climbs, although on the other hand the wrist position on a rope is more like that on hand cracks. But either the ladder or the rope are primarily for training the upper body; hand training will have to come from some other source, and I think the rope has so many offsetting advantages over a ladder that it is still a better bet overall, both in terms of convenience and training utility. But to echo John...just my opinion...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 22, 2008 - 03:24pm PT
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tolman - yeah I was trying to hunt down that footage as well. It was a TV piece by "Evening Magazine" or maybe "P.M. Magazine" out of the Bay Area.
Werner shot the footage when their supposedly expert cameraman couldn't jumar!
It was hilarious. The $800 per day cameraman showed Werner which buttons to press on the camera and that was it. Werner jumared the fixed rope to the top of the dihedral pitch in about five minutes and I soloed it. I finished the last 5.8 pitch in the rain as well....nightmare.
Perfect footage! I still can't find out who owns that footage for the life of me....
Maybe Werner knows????
Edit: Oh yeah, twisted...I think I got a few pennies from a small comission but not much. I got a bunch of free rungs however (which all burnt up in Foresta when my house went down).
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Feb 22, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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Hey rgold: Can you elaborate a bit more? What are the "so many offsetting advantages over a ladder" ?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 22, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
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John,
I have a copy of the footage on VHS. I'll have to see if I can convert it to dvd.
It's poignant you mention the rain and climbing, as it bit me today at lunch. I was thinking about the cheesy commentarty when you neared the traverse on the top of oz, "The approaching storm clouds worry John, as wet rocks can't be climbed"
Well I was on a 5.9 route with manky bolts that I've been working to replace. The rock was dry on the route itself, but where I was standing to re-drill the 5th bolt my right boot was on a wet smear, so the sole got soaked. It didn't concern me as the final bulge has fairly big flat holds, then is low angle with large holds to the anchors.
So I clip into the existing rap bolts and lean back on the daisy to put some nice new bolts in. My wet right foot suddenly greased off and my left knee made a sickening and painful twist with me crumpling into the slab. I have kinda screwy knees, but of all the things I have done, I never would have expected to blow my knee out at a belay stance trying to do my thing for the climbing community by replacing manky 1/4" splitshafts in mankier fractured rock. Not to mention all the pitches I've roped soloed, it would be a sporty 1/2 pitch roadside route that got me.
I figure since I managed to walk down the scree slope to the truck w/o pain the knee isn't that bad, just week. Time to suck down some ibuprofin to keep the swelling down.
Paul
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 22, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
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Rope climbing is a fine exercise but I always felt the ladder allowed you to concentrate more on your lats. After all's said and done it's easier to hang on a rung than to hang on a squeezed rope - this allows you to do more pulling (with a weight belt as well) and not be limited by your squeeze power.
Rope climbng may be more similar to the position you get in while crack climbing but thumb up hand jams are usually the easy ones anyway - not much need to train for those. It's the thumb down thin hand jams you really need to train for and that's when you build a crack machine.... just some ideas.
Rick Cashner practicing thin hands.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 22, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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I suspect the utility of training techniques is affected both by the terrain that has to be covered and the physiology of the trainee. I used to climb where there were a lot of horizontals and a lot of ceilings. I never ran into a ceiling where I had to do a front lever off a fingertip hold and also could not get a foot on something so as to push me out. There may be cases where fingertip levers are necessary but I, fortunately, never ran into one. Horizontal hold front levers did give me a physiological problem because I have a six inch ape index.(My brother is 4 inches taller than myself and has an eight inch ape index. Never could get him interested.) In a horizontal hold front lever the elbow is loaded across the plane determined by the biceps, which is not a normal loading. With long arms and the associated adverse leverage, that is hell on the elbow. I did do rope climbing during the work day and I thought it was a great help for my arms. But what do I know?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 22, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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"Hey rgold: Can you elaborate a bit more? What are the 'so many offsetting advantages over a ladder' ?"
First of all, I exaggerated. But I can think of four offsetting advantages.
1. Convenience: You can hang a rope anywhere you can hang a ladder, but a rope doesn't need to be tensioned down. No "double pulley and jumar system" needed.
2. Reaching span: The rungs on a ladder have, of course, a particular spacing. If you make the spacing equal to your maximum reach, then as soon as you get a little fatigued you won't be able to continue. So you have to make the spacing less than maximum reach. Or make two rungs to maximum reach as in one of John's pictures, but then you have to go from maximum reach down to half maximum reach. Eventually, as you fatigue, the spacing will force an end to the session. The rope, however, has continuous reaching. You can start out with maximum reaches, actually, if you climb dynamically, with reaches beyond your maximum static distance, and continually tamp the reaching distance down as fatigue sets in. I think this makes for a more effective workout.
3. Controlled negatives: Ok, negative work can be dangerous to the elbows if done to excess. But I think it is also the secret to progress, at least it was for me. On the rope, you can climb up two-handed or even two-handed and two-footed and come down one hand at a time while pinching the rope between your feet. You get to lower yourself, under control, continuously, one arm at a time. Various pinching strategies give more or less support. I don't think there is an analogous training method with a ladder.
4. Explosive training. A competitive rope climber can climb a rope faster than many people can pull the same rope lying slack on the ground between their legs. These athletes develop a "stride" in which one hand is at waist level or a bit lower and the other is catching the rope at full extension. In principle you could try the same thing on a ladder, but the rigid mounting, the width of the ladder, and the fixed rung spacing make it very difficult to achieve similar effects.
Disadvantages:
1. John thinks the more natural climbing position of a ladder is important. I don't think so, but of course I could be wrong. I can say that a regimen of rope-climbing enabled me to do, at best (and we are speaking now of a distant past), seven honest strict one-arm pullups on each arm (in other words, with my wrist in the position it wasn't supposedly trained for), so there was a fair amount of carry-over to the "climbing position." But this doesn't prove that I might not have benefitted even more from training on a ladder.
2. Elbow strain (epicondylitis). The rope gripping position contracts the forearm muscle more than the bar gripping position. Anything that might contribute to this overuse injury has to be viewed as a potentially serious disadvantage.
3. Grip requirements. Obviously, the rope requires more than rungs. Whether there is any climbing advantage to building up your grip strength in the rope-climbing position, I don't know. In order to hang on reliably with one hand, I found it necessary to chalk the entire rope every session, which is a pain, but can be turned into the warmup.
"I never ran into a ceiling where I had to do a front lever off a fingertip hold and also could not get a foot on something so as to push me out. There may be cases where fingertip levers are necessary but I, fortunately, never ran into one."
Mmm, front levers, another story. I think they have value for climbing, but, perhaps counter-intuitively, that value has almost nothing to do with ceilings or even particularly overhanging climbing.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Feb 22, 2008 - 10:48pm PT
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I haven't climbed a Bachar Ladder in 22 years and my elbows are almost healed.
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 07:38am PT
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Bacher wrote: "The wooden version was the best"
This makes me laugh because it makes so much sense. I built this Bacher Ladder in the early 80s to train on in Alabama.
I never got much out of climbing on it. I should have just tried a wooden ladder. Fortunately we had a lot of overhanging sandstone to train on:
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 10:45am PT
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Digg how all the cool kids sported Strawberry Mountain Chalk Bags! I have got to call Victor up, he's into fly fishing here in Truckee. One summer (79) I distributed those models around New England, thats how Bobby D' got his.
Bachar Ladders, I spent a little time on those things, but I always sucked at training, no attention span. I just climbed my way into shape, starting in March working my way through the crack circuit, fit by June.
In 1989 the wooden ladder Tarbuster and I built in Berkeley was classic, side yard of my moms house in S, Berkeley. sorry no photo, 24 feet tall, got a lot of attention from the predominantly african-american neighbors, and passerbys. Joists of 2X8 on edge, with redwood 1/2 inch finger boards with drilled sanded pockets. Probably about 18 degrees steep. Got the plans from Chappy and Kauk. We toproped it when we were going for no feet power, and the roped helped minimize negatives. I actually used the thing diligently the summer I competed in the Snowbird World Cup.
Peter
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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Yes, the wooden ladders had more real application to climbing. With the rope ladder you can twist the ladder to make reaches but on the wooden ladder you have to "twist" your body to make reaches. For that reason the wooden ladder seems a lot harder and mimicks climbing movement better.
To prevent excessive negatives I liked to downclimb the ladder using my feet - like rgold does with the rope climb.
The slat board ladder with edges and pockets that Maysho talks about is pretty much the same thing as a modern day "campus board".... plastic holds weren't "invented" yet so we made wooden "holds".
Rick Cashner doing a finger traverse on wooden holds...
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
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Good morning John! Hows the riding? I'm in Marin County this morning, looks like more pow on the way.
Peter
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 12:58pm PT
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Hey Peter! Yup, tons o' snow and more to come....
No riding for me - I pulled a groin muscle last month and it's still on the mend.
One more fo' y'all....the ever so useful fingertip front lever by Don Welsh (where's he at these days?)...
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quartziteflight
climber
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Feb 23, 2008 - 01:17pm PT
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Good stuff!
Is the rope you all are talking about hanging straight down or at a 45 degree angle?? I'm guessing straight down?
Geno,
Is that roof crack champange jam?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2008 - 12:25am PT
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Here's a few more from C4.
First Blanchard on the horizontal:
And now this guy (who is this? I can't remember his name...) on the sloped hand crack.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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lad dab...Looks like Champagne above...Geno?
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Drool, drool....
Man I wish I had one o' dem official Bachar Ladders!
Wonder where I can git me a kit?????
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Hey Munge do you have a pic of the dual crack machine I gave you guys when I moved to London? It was a dual pure two inch on one side with a pure inch and a quarter on the other. It was pretty cool, stu polack and I built it, 18 foot as I remember. Mounted it with a steep overhang in my back garden attached to my garage, with a tramp at the bottom so if you had to bail it was so much fun to land......I think crack machines were very useful. I always hurt my shoulders and elbows on the bachar ladders.....
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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I'm a whoreder, what can I say JB. It's going up after I retool with my Bosch sander ;) I already tripped out the Home Depot guys---missing hardware for a rung....
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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426: You got one of the originals in the box. Wow that's cool.
Yeah the climb is Champagne Jam in Summer 84.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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John, are you talking about Don Welsh, the guy who put like up a billion routes at RR? Was in that movie "white spider"? I see him at my gym every once in a while, he climbs with a few friends of mine... I could probably get ahold of him. He was the first "real" climber I ever met (being gym-bred). Man, he's gotta be one of the smoothest climbers I've seen.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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my local gym has one of these now
so what do you do? just campus the rungs without feet?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Great thread...no John Gill yet? He always advocated rope climbing and was a master at it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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1984...30' up into my eucalyptus tree in Clairemont, San Diego,CA and anchored to my miniature apricot in my backyard. I had 14 inches of 3/4" pvc for rungs with 3/8" holes drilled near each end, then strung onto the rope, held on by knots below each hole. The rungs were spaced equally apart at 16" with three 21" oblique cruxes, each oblique opposite the last. All the rungs were wrapped with athletic tape. I would sit-start the bottom (an unforseen phenomenon ahead of its time) and could, over a period of time, complete the entire ladder and do controlled, one arm lowers to the ground. I, as well, would kip my feet up to assist when I would burn out, whether on ascending or descending. I would also lead the ladder using quick draws and "run it out" near the top to take the fall at the finish. Good times!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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IMHO Bachar Ladders are not to be recommended. Too much play in the apparatus = injuries. The steady wooden ladder John suggested is safer and more to the point. These wooden ladder exercises go back to at least the 1800s
Competitive rope climbing was more skill than strength. But RG did slow climbs in good form, more amenable to rock climbing.
(not RG!- but he looked almost this good BITD)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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Why John, that is just exactly the way I remember myself.
(Sadly, there are a number of photographs around that prove otherwise.)
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 10, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Man, I don't rate being on the same page as John Gill! That name was/is just a legend in literature b.i.t.d! The last I saw/heard from you was in the movie, "On the Rocks" back in the 80's doing the Ripper Traverse back in your home town on Lake Louise, WI was it? Where you introduced gymnast chalk to the "slick quartzite" there. Thanks for the memories.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 10, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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I was meeting with Mr Cole at the 5.10 HQ when it was in North Hollywood many years ago. He had a Fat Rope set up there in the warehouse. He'd get an excited glint in his eye talkin about that. I though he was going to offer them up but they never appeared on the climbing market.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Feb 10, 2012 - 02:46am PT
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I had one of those Chouniard Bachar ladder kits stashed away for years. Never used it and sold it on ebay a couple years ago. Wonder if anyone on here picked it up. They were beautifully made with the set screws and stuff.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 10, 2012 - 10:02am PT
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I use a Werner Ladder.
I have a six foot green one and 18 foot aluminum. I should have bought the 24 foot, now I have buyer's remorse.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Feb 10, 2012 - 10:13am PT
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This guy has the original one John built stashed in his garage.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 10, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Anyone have any shots off Bachar on the ladder he had on Cyclops at JT?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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This reminds me...
I need to start working out for Spring.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 10, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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That's an interesting 3-man assembly in the Turner Gym picture.
I'm reminded of a fun party trick I learned from some modern dancers.
5 people are required, one rider and four launchers.
One person lies on the floor, supine.
The launchers each grab a wrist or ankle.
They each give a tug, one-two-THREEEE
That is, two little tugs then a big one,
and the rider goes up a few feet above the launchers' heads.
Don't let go, of course, and the landing is soft.
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wdipaulo
Social climber
Rochester, NY
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Retired Climber, got too old, mostly backpack with a hammock now. Anyway, I found a "New in the Box" Chouinard Equipment Bachar Ladder Kit in my basement with my old ropes. I had bought two back in 1980, one for a friend who never picked it up. I remember the one i used to use kicking my butt regularly but what a great feel it had. They just don't make things of this quality anymore. I desire that this go to a good home where it will be used and appreciated. How about the first $75 from an active climber gets this gem. Feel free to email me at wdipaulo@gmail.com
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Nov 11, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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Here is the article written by John Bachar that came with the Chouinard Bachar Ladder Kit. Send me an email if you want a PDF of the the original (kinda cool 'cause it has John Bachar's signature).
TRAINING FOR STONE BY JOHN BACHAR
In the last decade, the art of free climbing has advanced considerably. The reasons for this advancement are varied; climbing techniques are becoming more refined, modern equipment is stronger, lighter, and easier to use, and training methods are becoming more popular and more effective. I believe that the latter has contributed to the rise in standards as much as any of the others.
Initially, climbers didn’t train for routes except by doing other routes. The first popular type of training was probably bouldering, now practiced as a sport in its own right. Bouldering was,and still is, good preparation for free climbing. It simulates the physical aspects of roped climbing, is good practice for technique, and develops a certain amount of strength as well. Gradually climbers devised "artificial" exercises to simulate the most common climbing movements and thereby strengthen the main muscle groups used in free climbing. At the onset these consisted of a few simple exercises such as pull-ups and push-ups. Today, however, many specialized exercises are being employed to develop the body for free climbing. The success of any of these exercises depends on how closely they simulate climbing movements in posture, direction and range of motion, and speed of motion.
Training is the mental and physical conditioning of an individual preparing for intense neural and muscular reaction. It means discipline of the mind and power and endurance of the body. It means skill and technique. It is all these things working together in harmony.
Training for free climbing is complex. Some climbers feel that they must have enormous amounts of strength to climb, yet strength without technique is useless. Others feel that with exceptional technique they don't need much strength, but technique without strength is limiting also. Still others have good technique and are very strong, but they don' t have the necessary mental qualities to be a good leader. Since the climber can train many qualities, the first step in any training program is to decide which qualities to train.
MUSCLES
In order to understand the value of different strengthening exercises, one should be aware of a few simple facts about skeletal muscle.
One of the most important facts about muscle tissue is that there are basically two different types. White muscle fibers are called fast twitch and red muscle fibers are called slow twitch. The slow type are characterized by the fact that they are supplied with energy by aerobic means (with oxygen) while the fast type utilize energy anaerobically (without oxygen).
It is important to know that there are two different types of muscle fiber because an understanding of basic kinesiology will help you to design the most effective workout program for your own needs.
POWER
Power, or explosive strength, is the force which can be applied by a brief maximal effort. It is the type of strength necessary for the crux moves of a very difficult climb or for a very strenuous boulder problem. The one arm pull-up, front lever, and the iron cross are some examples of explosive strength type efforts.
Explosive strength activities utilize the white muscle fibers which are the fast contracting fibers that provide energy through the breakdown of glycogen (the main energy source for muscular work) by anaerobic means. that is, with out oxygen. These fibers are slow to resynthesize energy so they fatigue rapidly.
Muscle tension is the key to the development of explosive strength. A thousand contractions a day will not increase strength unless sufficient tension is developed in the muscle. As muscles become stronger, either the tension must be increased, or the duration and frequency of the application of tension must be increased in order to stimulate further growth.
Explosive strength can be trained by performing low repetition, high resistance type exercises with adequate rest between sets. Doing more than five repetitive isotonic (dynamic as in a pull-up) efforts, or isometric (static as in holding an iron cross) contractions held beyond ten seconds, are not as stimulating as shorter exertions with more resistance, because the muscle tension is less than maximal.
A general rule for both power and endurance training is to use isometric (static) exercises to develop muscles which perform isometrically (e.g. fingers, toes), and isotonic (dynamic) exercises to develop muscles which perform isotonically (e.g. arms, legs).
The following are excellent explosive strength exercises for free climbing:
1. Bouldering.
2. One arm pull-up (on a chinning bar or on a finger edge).
3. Two arm pull-up with maximum weight hung around the waist (on a chinning bar or on a fingertip edge).
4. Front lever and front lever raise (on a bar or on an edge).
5. Iron cross on the still rings.
6. Butterfly mount on the still rings.
7. One arm isometric fingertip hang (on fingertip edge).
8. Two arm isometric fingertip hang with weight hung from waist (on fingertip edge).
8. Parallel bar dip with maximum weight hung from waist.
ENDURANCE
Muscular endurance is the ability to sustain a muscular force or to perform continuous muscular work. It is the type of strength necessary for a long continuous pitch or for a difficult all day climb.
Unlike explosive strength efforts, endurance work utilizes both the fast contracting white fibers (as discussed in the section on power) and the slow contracting red fibers. These red fibers provide energy by aerobic means (with oxygen) and can do so continuously so they are very difficult to fatigue. The white fibers (anaerobic) have more power but fatigue easier, while the red fibers (aerobic) are weaker but can work longer.
In endurance work there is a gradually changing dependence on "anaerobic" and "aerobic" systems as maximal muscular work time increases. A short strenuous boulder problem would require mostly "anaerobic" systems while a long strenuous crack would tax mostly the "aerobic" systems. An exhaustive climb that lasts two minutes is approximately 50% anaerobic and 50% aerobic in content.
Training for muscular endurance involves a combination of both "aerobic" and "anaerobic" exercises. This is best accomplished by a series of brief intervals of intense muscular effort interrupted by intervals of effort at a more moderate level.
Always do the more "anaerobic" exercises first, working toward the more "aerobic" exercises next, and doing circuit training (explained below) last. Increasing power may increase endurance but muscular endurance exercise does not increase power.
The following are excellent exercises for the development of muscular endurance for free climbing. (The exercises in the Power section may also be used if one's power is sufficient):
1. Boulder traverses ("arm" or "toe" traverses).
2. Strenuous top ropes.
3. Two arm pull-ups ( on a bar or edge).
4. Rope climbing.
5. Rope ladder climbing.
6. Parallel bar dips.
7. Two arm fingertip hang on a fingertip edge.
8. Sit-ups.
9. Push-ups.
10. Circuit training - The circuit training method of developing muscular and cardiorespiratory endurance can be used with all the above exercises. The method consists of a series of exercises performed non-stop at several stations (arranged in a closed path). The climber progresses from station to station performing each exercise with the intensity and duration necessary to increase muscular endurance. Local fatigue is avoided by exercising a remote muscle group at succeeding stations. Progression in training is accomplished by gradually reducing the time allowed to complete a full circuit.
Excellent cardiorespiratory endurance for free climbing may also be obtained from circuit training. The cardiorespiratory benefits from circuit training are more specific to free climbing than those obtained from other cardiorespiratory activities such as running or jumping rope.
TECHNIQUE
Technique is the method by which the climber achieves greater mechanical efficiency, using fewer muscles and by employing those used to better advantage. Energy saved by technique can be utilized in the longer persistence or the more forceful expression of an act.
Training technique is a matter of forming proper connections in the nervous system by precision practice. Each time one climbs, it strengthens the connections involved and makes the next climb easier, more certain and more readily done.
Bouldering and top-roping are excellent opportunities for the practice of technique. They allow the climber to concentrate on his movement without other distractions such as the fear of falling, placing protection, loose rock, etc. Attention should always be given to improving form.
BALANCE
Balance means the control of one' s center of gravity. It is the utilization of one's body position in connection with the pull of gravity in order to facilitate upwards movement. The climber uses balance whether he is on a low angle slab, a vertical wall, or an overhang. His "sense" of balance determines his choice of hand and footholds as he "balances" his way up the rock. Like technique, balance is best practiced by actual climbing. One should learn to "feel" where his/her center of gravity is and where it is pulling her both in motion and in stillness. Good balance is acquired by years of climbing experience and does- not come overnight.
FLEXIBILITY
Flexibility is a very important quality for the climber. Flexible muscles have more contraction and relaxation capacity, better blood circulation, and are less injury prone than "tight" muscles. They also allow the climber greater ease of movement and better use of the rock surrounding him.
Stretching and flexibility exercises should by done daily. They can either be developed by the climber on his own, or can be adapted from other activities such as gymnastics, yoga, ballet and the martial arts.
COORDINATION
Coordination is by all means one of the most important considerations in any study of proficiency in sports and athletics. It is the quality which enable the climber to bring together his technique, balance, strength, endurance, mental control, and emotional poise during a climb.
Well executed movement means the nervous system has been trained to the point where it sends impulses to certain muscles, causing these muscles to contract at exactly the proper fraction of a second. At the same time, impulses to the unneeded muscles are shut off, allowing those muscles to relax. The transition from totally uncoordinated muscular effort to skill of the highest perfection is a process of developing the connections in the nervous system.
The outstanding characteristic of the expert climber is his/her ease of movement, even during potentially dangerous situations or maximal effort. The novice is characterized by his tenseness, wasted motion, and excess effort. The characteristic "ease" of the expert is his ability to relax.
Relaxation refers to the degree of tension in the musculature. The rule in sports is to try to have no more tension in the acting muscles than is necessary to perform the act, and to relax the muscles not being used as much as possible. A relaxed climber expends mental and physical energy constructively, conserving it when it does not contribute to the solution of the problem and spending it freely when it does. It does not mean he is lax and moves and thinks slowly. Neither does it mean he is careless or indifferent. The relaxation desired is relaxation of muscles, rather than of mind or attention.
WORKING OUT ON THE ROPE LADDER
Training on the rope ladder will help you develop endurance and "lock-off" capacity. Though the exact spacing of the rungs will depend on your own strength and body size, there are some basic points to consider when installing the rungs on your ladder.
RUNG SPACING
A wide variety of rung spacings are possible with this ladder system, but they can be grouped into three basic categories: Singles, doubles, and triples.
Singles Spacing
To make a singles ladder, the rungs are placed rather far apart so that each consecutive reach involves pulling up into a fully "locked-off" position in order to reach the next rung. The approximate spacing distance for a singles ladder is anywhere between 24 and 32 inches depending on the climber's strength and height.
Doubles Spacing
The rungs for a doubles ladder are spaced approximately one-half the distance used for a singles ladder, or anywhere between 12 and 16 inches apart. With the doubles ladder, the climber can either ascend using consecutive rungs (called "doing singles"), or he can skip rungs by performing consecutive "lock-offs" (called "doing doubles"). A "Doubles" ladder allows the climber more variety and a chance to work out more muscle groups than the "Singles" ladder.
Triples Spacing
The "Triples" ladder has rungs that are spaced about one-third of the distance of the "Singles" ladder spacings, or anywhere between 7 to 10 inches apart. The "Triples" ladder provides three different climbing patterns (i.e. singles, doubles, or triples), and the most variety of all. I have never used a "Quadruples" ladder but I have a feeling it may be a little too cluttered.
Other patterns for rung spacings can be developed from the above ideas. For example, your ladder might begin with singles spacings and gradually progress towards doubles and triples spacings near the top.
I have also seen slanted rungs (i.e. non-level rungs), and "spinners" (made by placing a PVC tube over the rung before attaching the rung on the ropes). A couple of "slanters" or "spinners" added to the ladder might give you more variety and a chance to exercise a wider variety of muscle groups.
Combinations are good for general overall training, simplicity is best for isolating muscle groups. Choice between combinations or simplicity depends upon the availability of other training devices, time for workouts, and energy available for working out.
INJURY PREVENTION
Training on the rope ladder is very strenuous. The climber wishing to strengthen himself/herself on it must be very fit in order to reap full benefit and avoid injury from it. The following are a few words of caution when using the ladder.
1. Train don't strain. It is preferable to work out moderately over a period of years than to adopt an extreme exercise program that aims at high levels of strength in a few months.
2. Talk to someone who knows how to train. If this is not possible, then try to read some books on exercise physiology or on general training principles. In training, what counts is quality, not quantity.
3. If you feel any pain during or after training, STOP YOUR WORKOUT. Go to a physician if the pain is severe or rest a few days and if the pain is still present, then go. It is far better to lay off for a couple of weeks now than have to lay off later for several months or years! (Believe me, I should know!).
4. In particular, be very careful while descending the rope ladder. It may
be easier to descend than to ascend, but much greater forces are developed in the tendons and muscles and joints while descending ( it is well known that more force is developed in the tendon during the eccentric contraction of a muscle group). Be especially careful about "jerking" your entire body weight onto one arm when lowering onto each rung. Just before your arm becomes straight, try to grab the next rung with your free hand (or better yet, use your feet while descending to be really safe).
There is a fine line between super-fitness and over-training and injury. Unfortunately, one usually has to cross that line in order to find one’s own limits. Signs of over-training should be listened to and watched very carefully. Enjoy your new adjustable rope ladder and TRAIN DON'T STRAIN!
CONCLUSION
In relation to other well established sports, the sport of free climbing is still in a state of infancy. Likewise, in comparison to the training methods used in other sports, the training methods used for free climbing are still in their early stages of development.
The training qualities presented in this article were arrived at by a process of simplifying the components that seem to be important in the complex activity He call free climbing. It may at times be useful to isolate these components in order to better understand what it is that helps us climb better but ultimately these "qualities" are meant to be forgotten. The more aware you become, the more you shed from day to day what you have learned so that your mind is always fresh and uncontaminated by previous conditioning. Training is important but do not become its slave. Any quality, however worthy and desirable, becomes a disease when the mind is obsessed with it.
Free climbing becomes an art only when there is absolute freedom. This means freedom from external aids (Direct physical aid, equipment, technology, etc.) and a continually increasing reliance upon one' s internal powers of mind, body, and spirit. The ultimate aim of free climbing is the realization of self and nature. It is my sincere hope that the ideas presented in this article will help you reach this goal.
Style First,

John Bachar
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BBOB
Sport climber
Tacoma, WA
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Apr 15, 2019 - 06:59pm PT
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I have an original Bachar Ladder Kit (sans rope) for sale if anyone is interested
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Apr 15, 2019 - 08:59pm PT
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I still recommend: stay away from it. Use a solid ladder.
I noticed JB recommended crosses on the still rings. My shoulders in old age are ruined from exercises like that.
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