'TASTE THE PAINE' grade VII solo F.A. in Patagonia


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the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Feb 1, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
and he just won survivor too..


Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 2, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
Wow.. Just wow.

Hope to attend a slide show / talk on this experience real real soon.


Trad climber
Feb 2, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
Sickter Dave, psyched you managed to make that line happen,
Much love, Somebodyelse and Somebodyelses Girlfriend.

Feb 2, 2008 - 10:54pm PT
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 2, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
Dave T;

Please don't beat yourself up too much concerning gear left behind. It sounds like it was simply time to go. We all leave a trace.
the fact that your ascent was as spare as possible is really classical. There is a Japanese concept of organic imperfection called Wabi Sabi [someone correct my spelling]. Check it out at the library the next time the rain in Yosemite threatens to turn your tent into an impromptu kayak.


Trad climber
Feb 3, 2008 - 01:31am PT
That is such an amazing climb I can hardly believe it!!! Last year I tried to hike up to the base of that rock just to see it. It is incredibly beautiful and quite remote. I tried from 2 different directions and never made it because the wind and snow just blew me flat. To live for 34 days on that wall is just incredible. Gigantic kudos for such an amazing feat, for the physical and mental effort, for your perseverance!

Cardiff by the sea
Feb 3, 2008 - 01:32am PT
Damn Dave fantastic story of your epic ascent. Very proud work !! Way to take your local skills out on the global level, and show the world what a true badass you are!!

Congrats mt friend

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 3, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
since we're all sharing dave pics .. here are 2 of my favorite from 2005 ..

Dave during first Ascent of Atlantis

Another shot of Dave on Atlantis

Big Wall climber
Feb 4, 2008 - 09:38am PT
I was in the area most of the time of daveīs ascent and talked to dave many times on radio. During the climb, i guided my mom in patagonia for 12 days, pioneered a new circuit in the paine, went to turkey for ten days fr a job, and the whole time dave was up there on the wall. i first spied this route12 years ago, finally came down to do it 5 years ago, but got snaileyed and decided to do something easier which turned out to be the solo traverse of the towers.
i have to say that this ascent was the most badass thing to go down here since dean climbed the fitz twice and cerro torre solo, while roping up for only one pitch. anyway, dave came down here, picked the line, got psyched, made cunning strategical decisions, and then just sent the motherfuc*er into oblivion. for all the climbers in the area, it was just huge to watch, truly inspirational. To solo a wall like that, then make a daring alpine dash to the true summit, its absolutely gobsmacking.
a couple of answers...somebody asked about water. daves strategy was to bank 15 gallons of water deep in the haulbag, and then try to top off a 5 gallon supply he carried near the top. When a freak snowstorm dumped 3 meters on him one third of the way up hea was able to fill up, and stayed pretty full all the way to the summit.
al dude, the wall was done via the Dream, by jarrett, breemer,and santileces in 94, but they never even tried to summit. this is probably just the third ascent to the summit proper.
Dave had 40 days of food with him, and past that another month of emergency past, rice and potato flakes. he said he was never even close to running out of food, and that he was either going to the top of the wall or was going to die trying...not that he was suicidal, just that short of death, nothing was going to stop him.
on day 15, i radioed dave and was the first one to talk to him, except for yelling, since he left the ground. obviously he was excited to talk. he told me then, "i canīt believe it, that the adventure of my life is also the route of my life".
after that, dave was in constant communication with host of admirers via 2 radios i left in the valley, especially a cute french canadien female climber that talked to dave for over 2 hours at a time. dave said later the she is my first radio girlfriend, but that is another story(and ongoing).
its funny, i first met dave on el cap via radio channel 420, and we have been great friends ever since.
so, somebody said dave won the mugs stump award for this climb. This is untrue. dave won the lyman spitzer award for this climb. dave was just awarded the mugs stump award for his next climb down here, another big mother of a solo on the virgin and oft attempted south face of the south tower of paine. thats the big thing, while he was fixing pitches on escudo, he came to town to apply for grants for his next big adventure...he is thinking that far ahead. pretty together for
26 year old slackliner from the valley.
so, lets draft off daveīs motivation and really push ourselves to greatness this year in whatever it is we do. ciao for now, steve "SHIPOOPOI" schneider

Mountain climber
Feb 4, 2008 - 09:55am PT
Unreal. Way to go.


Trad climber
Coimbra, Portugal
Feb 4, 2008 - 10:34am PT
Bravo Dave! This is an amazing climb. Congratulations!!!

About the next adventure (South face of Paine south tower) some people said that is a virgin face, but I think that the Britons Stu McAleese and Mike "Twid" Turner climbed a new line in 2006 but without reach the summit (like the americans in Cerro Escudo), climbing the huge wall except the final rigde.




'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 4, 2008 - 10:42am PT
Thanks for a great report, Steve. I had asked about the water because I wondered if it would freeze up there or knott, and it sounds like it didn't, which must have been a huge advantage.

Did you ever get your hammer and stuff from Brenda? She's holding it for you, eh?
Chris Oakes

Feb 4, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
pics coming...?

Great accomplishment.
mahyar mirtayebi

Big Wall climber
Feb 4, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
hi dave
i know you are crazy

but you have tryyyyyyy



i like your succeed

please tryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Feb 5, 2008 - 11:28am PT
Bumping this killer climbing topic.

Santa Cruz. CA
Feb 5, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
where you at dave? more stories please.

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 6, 2008 - 04:31pm PT

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Feb 7, 2008 - 01:29am PT
Hi Dave!

I can't say how big my heart feels in congratulations for you!
Beautiful fierce peaceful solo warrior


Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
Feb 7, 2008 - 01:36am PT
Sounds like a hard earned dream,...good on ya. Pix yet?

Sport climber
Sacramento CA
Feb 7, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
David is currently in the Park, Torres Del Paine. He sent a message via a climber stating he would be there for 2 weeks. I received the message on Tuesday. I bet he's looking at his next climb right now... .
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