'TASTE THE PAINE' grade VII solo F.A. in Patagonia

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 101 - 120 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
addiroid

Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA
Feb 1, 2008 - 11:54am PT
Congrats Dave. This is from the guy who told your Mom in the meadow in October that I was Jim Bridwell when you were doing the NA with Timmy and Malloy and were bivying/climbing near The Eye. Congrats on a spectacular send and good that you made it through all the tribulations on the horizontal and vertical!!

Paul
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Feb 1, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
and he just won survivor too..

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 2, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
Wow.. Just wow.

Hope to attend a slide show / talk on this experience real real soon.

GOOD FOR YOU MAN!
adventureboy

Trad climber
Bellingham,wa
Feb 2, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
Sickter Dave, psyched you managed to make that line happen,
Much love, Somebodyelse and Somebodyelses Girlfriend.
quartziteflight

climber
Feb 2, 2008 - 10:54pm PT
Nice.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 2, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
Dave T;

Please don't beat yourself up too much concerning gear left behind. It sounds like it was simply time to go. We all leave a trace.
the fact that your ascent was as spare as possible is really classical. There is a Japanese concept of organic imperfection called Wabi Sabi [someone correct my spelling]. Check it out at the library the next time the rain in Yosemite threatens to turn your tent into an impromptu kayak.

Jim
Hannah

Trad climber
Idaho
Feb 3, 2008 - 01:31am PT
That is such an amazing climb I can hardly believe it!!! Last year I tried to hike up to the base of that rock just to see it. It is incredibly beautiful and quite remote. I tried from 2 different directions and never made it because the wind and snow just blew me flat. To live for 34 days on that wall is just incredible. Gigantic kudos for such an amazing feat, for the physical and mental effort, for your perseverance!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Feb 3, 2008 - 01:32am PT
Damn Dave fantastic story of your epic ascent. Very proud work !! Way to take your local skills out on the global level, and show the world what a true badass you are!!

Congrats mt friend
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 3, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
since we're all sharing dave pics .. here are 2 of my favorite from 2005 ..


Dave during first Ascent of Atlantis


Another shot of Dave on Atlantis
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Feb 4, 2008 - 09:38am PT
I was in the area most of the time of daveīs ascent and talked to dave many times on radio. During the climb, i guided my mom in patagonia for 12 days, pioneered a new circuit in the paine, went to turkey for ten days fr a job, and the whole time dave was up there on the wall. i first spied this route12 years ago, finally came down to do it 5 years ago, but got snaileyed and decided to do something easier which turned out to be the solo traverse of the towers.
i have to say that this ascent was the most badass thing to go down here since dean climbed the fitz twice and cerro torre solo, while roping up for only one pitch. anyway, dave came down here, picked the line, got psyched, made cunning strategical decisions, and then just sent the motherfuc*er into oblivion. for all the climbers in the area, it was just huge to watch, truly inspirational. To solo a wall like that, then make a daring alpine dash to the true summit, its absolutely gobsmacking.
a couple of answers...somebody asked about water. daves strategy was to bank 15 gallons of water deep in the haulbag, and then try to top off a 5 gallon supply he carried near the top. When a freak snowstorm dumped 3 meters on him one third of the way up hea was able to fill up, and stayed pretty full all the way to the summit.
al dude, the wall was done via the Dream, by jarrett, breemer,and santileces in 94, but they never even tried to summit. this is probably just the third ascent to the summit proper.
Dave had 40 days of food with him, and past that another month of emergency past, rice and potato flakes. he said he was never even close to running out of food, and that he was either going to the top of the wall or was going to die trying...not that he was suicidal, just that short of death, nothing was going to stop him.
on day 15, i radioed dave and was the first one to talk to him, except for yelling, since he left the ground. obviously he was excited to talk. he told me then, "i canīt believe it, that the adventure of my life is also the route of my life".
after that, dave was in constant communication with host of admirers via 2 radios i left in the valley, especially a cute french canadien female climber that talked to dave for over 2 hours at a time. dave said later the she is my first radio girlfriend, but that is another story(and ongoing).
its funny, i first met dave on el cap via radio channel 420, and we have been great friends ever since.
so, somebody said dave won the mugs stump award for this climb. This is untrue. dave won the lyman spitzer award for this climb. dave was just awarded the mugs stump award for his next climb down here, another big mother of a solo on the virgin and oft attempted south face of the south tower of paine. thats the big thing, while he was fixing pitches on escudo, he came to town to apply for grants for his next big adventure...he is thinking that far ahead. pretty together for
26 year old slackliner from the valley.
so, lets draft off daveīs motivation and really push ourselves to greatness this year in whatever it is we do. ciao for now, steve "SHIPOOPOI" schneider
Roubaix

Mountain climber
Pennsylvania
Feb 4, 2008 - 09:55am PT
Unreal. Way to go.

Peter
Mig

Trad climber
Coimbra, Portugal
Feb 4, 2008 - 10:34am PT
Bravo Dave! This is an amazing climb. Congratulations!!!

About the next adventure (South face of Paine south tower) some people said that is a virgin face, but I think that the Britons Stu McAleese and Mike "Twid" Turner climbed a new line in 2006 but without reach the summit (like the americans in Cerro Escudo), climbing the huge wall except the final rigde.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/newswire-south-tower-paine-patagonia

http://www.sheersummits.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=145&Itemid=97

Cheers

Mig
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 4, 2008 - 10:42am PT
Thanks for a great report, Steve. I had asked about the water because I wondered if it would freeze up there or knott, and it sounds like it didn't, which must have been a huge advantage.

Did you ever get your hammer and stuff from Brenda? She's holding it for you, eh?
Chris Oakes

climber
Hayward
Feb 4, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
pics coming...?

Great accomplishment.
mahyar mirtayebi

Big Wall climber
Tehran
Feb 4, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
hi dave
i know you are crazy

but you have tryyyyyyy

tryyyyyyyyyyy

tryyyyyyyyyyyyyy

i like your succeed

please tryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Feb 5, 2008 - 11:28am PT
Bumping this killer climbing topic.
stinky

climber
Santa Cruz. CA
Feb 5, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
where you at dave? more stories please.
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 6, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
*bump*
cybele

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Feb 7, 2008 - 01:29am PT
Hi Dave!

I can't say how big my heart feels in congratulations for you!
Beautiful fierce peaceful solo warrior

Cybele
Buggs

Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
Feb 7, 2008 - 01:36am PT
Sounds like a hard earned dream,...good on ya. Pix yet?
Messages 101 - 120 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews