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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2004 - 11:24am PT
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Yeah really, those pics in the gallery are nice, I was talking to Problem Pappy about it, found out you can pretty much avoid ice and snow and still summit there, about 2k feet, so, how far do you have to go to do something worthwhile (any grade decent free climb) that has not been done?
A couple of years ago Croft gave a talk about climbing along ridges, I think he was talking about the Sierras, and it seems I remember he said there was a lot left to do, but maybe I'm fuzzy.
Anyway, if I keep looking at those pics, I'll actually have to get in reasonable shape and go west.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Dec 30, 2004 - 12:43pm PT
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Exploration is just beginning.
Just off the top of my head:
Wall of 100 cracks.
Most lines on the S. Face of Lone Pine Peak
at least 3 or 4 more lines on the E. Face of Whitney, and more lines in the N. Fork of Lone Pine Creek than you can shake a stick at.
Ruby Wall.
Dinkey Creek.
A route about every 10 feet or so on the Sequoia Obelisk.
4 or 5 more routes on the N. Face of Mt. Chamberlin.
Bath Mountain.
Whorl Mountain.
Balloon Dome, many routes to be done from the middle fork of the San Joaq.
Huge walls on and around Tehipite Dome.
And I only bother to list all these because they're things I won't have time to get around to doing.
Brutus
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2004 - 01:35pm PT
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Thanks for the useful, rapid, and interesting replies.
I don't know why, but there just are not that many people who want to do new stuff, but it seems that this site might be a gathering place for adventure climbers.
I totally agree that a climb does not have to be a mega classic to be fun and a good adventure. Michael Crowder likes to say that any 5.6 FA is better than any 5.10 repeat, and I tend to agree for the most part.
While looking around the site for Sierra info, I noticed that pic of the marmot-- they look like high altitude hedge hogs LOL! I'd bet cash that those feckers are related, and as far as hedge hogs go, the only good one is a dead one. Been fighting them for 20 years in the vegetable garden.
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Neil
Gym climber
Here and there
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Dec 30, 2004 - 02:15pm PT
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That just sounds as cool as hell.
Neil
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bobh
climber
Bishop, California
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Dec 30, 2004 - 02:52pm PT
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Chris, thanks for posting that note about the dihedral above Arctic Lakes. I''ve been
right underneath it and thought it looked pretty good, but now I guess I don't have to
bother.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Near the Rose Bowl
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Dec 30, 2004 - 07:35pm PT
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there are some unclimbed routes in Dusy Basin just over from Bishop Pass.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2004 - 01:39am PT
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Yeah but those are real purdy and real tall and thar ain't no snow or ice on em.
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dougs510
Trad climber
Nashville, TN.
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Dec 31, 2004 - 08:21am PT
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I was just thinking that a snowshoe backpack trip from the meadows to the valley would be grand adventure.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 31, 2004 - 11:49am PT
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Skis work better than snow shoes. My regular partner has done a trans sierra a couple of times, Once from Mamoth. Have done TM a couple of times and will probably do it again this year. The rocket scientist was making noise about doing it again before he turns 71. Hope I can keep up with him.
Has anything been done in the canyons that are across from the water bottling plant? (blue bldg) Those have always looked like an interesting cold weather alternative to Owens Ridge.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 31, 2004 - 06:13pm PT
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Angel Wings, and anything past Bear Paw Meadow. 16 mile trudge to get in there but itīs hardly been touched. Prety big stuff as well. Lonely.
JL
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Nate D
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Dec 31, 2004 - 06:42pm PT
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Good grief people, can't we quiet it down a bit? Just a reminder that all of these places have grueling approaches, rattlesnakes, man-eating manzanita, mountain lions, 70+ mph winds, bees, terrible rock, flash floods, sharks, um, and um, crowds... oh, wait.
Let's add:
Fish Creek Wall
Castle Domes
Wildcat point and environs (has it been tapped out yet?)
I guess we could add the entire Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, no?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 31, 2004 - 06:55pm PT
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"Just a reminder that all of these places have grueling approaches, rattlesnakes, man-eating manzanita, mountain lions, 70+ mph winds, bees, terrible rock, flash floods, sharks, um"
Sounds like "fun"
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Pappy
Trad climber
Atlanta
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Dec 31, 2004 - 11:59pm PT
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If you people could tame that police state out there I'd sell the biz and move to CA and start sucking up lines. I'm neither cutting edge or spectcular, but I'm very stubborn and persistent.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 25, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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whoa, so true (to Brutus' point about time)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 25, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
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Where's Dirtineye?
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anointed one
Gym climber
my mamma
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Jun 25, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
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"Arnie recently signed legislation banning bolt-action .50 caliber BMG's. Now, pray tell, what kind of crime has ever been committed with one of these?"
there should be one in every home!
but keep this
and this
illegal for the good of society
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 25, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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is Jody Dyslexic?
nothing left to see in the sierras, move along folks the cool sh#t is in Iowa! oops, I let the cat out of the bag....
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Here we have a great thread, with comments even from Brutus, and we are talking politics?
I guess it's better than giving up all our secret routes we haven't done or may never do.
I've always wondered why more people don't spend two months climbing in the sierra, the way that folks head off to the Himalaya to spend half a year on one stinking route.
If you had sherpa/mule support in the Sierra, you could put up tons of new grade IV's and V's. They are there.
Chris- did your buddy get that second on the Cyclorama?
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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All kinds of goodness left in Kings Canyon, from bouldering to big wall.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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could be a couple lines here, maybe?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Once y'all have tapped out the spots which only have "grueling" approaches and sharks it'll be time to get to the good stuff...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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argh!
avast, prepare to boarded!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 12, 2016 - 03:50pm PT
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This summer my wife and I climbed a ridge traverse that started from upper Darwin Bench up to and across an unnamed ridge north of Darwin Canyon Lakes, to a nice buttress/ridge that lead up to the Lamarck plateau then to the "other" Mt. Lamarck. I'd refer to it as the Darwin Canyon Ridge or full West Ridge of Mt. Lamarck.
Roper mentions the unnamed peaklet on the initial ridge north of the lower Darwin Canyon Lakes that we traversed across.
Nothing outstanding compared to all the awesome sh#t to climb out there, but thought I'd post here to see if anyone knows about it or has done it.
I'm considering writing it up for the AAJ as a "every mans" type sierra ridge climb which you don't see too much of nowadays in the AAJ.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Oct 12, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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What's not left to do in the Sierra is the real question.
Kern Point, for instance. That wall that descends down to the confluence of the Kern and the Kern-Kaweah is immense. If it wasn't a two day approach it'd be a world famous climbing destination.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 12, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
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Funny how many of the rocks mentioned on this have been climbed since this thread started, and still soooooooooo much to do!
Maybe Vitaliy used this as a tick list? :)
Split, I'd write it up. If anything they'll probably at least include it online. I didn't submit stuff for a while because I didn't think it was hardcore enough then they included my routes once they found out on their own. I guess they're not too picky!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oct 13, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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Gary. Do you know if anybody has been on that Kaweah Peaks Ridge? I wonder what that ridgetop traverse is like.
Gotta say, most of you here, including Limpingcrab, have a higher bar that I as to what is fun.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 13, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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I didn't think it was hardcore enough then they included my routes once they found out on their own
It never ceases to amaze me how many climbs have been done prior to their first ascents.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 13, 2016 - 10:01am PT
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Maybe Vitaliy used this as a tick list? :)
that's what I thought when I found this thread. :)
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 12:16am PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 12:17am PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 12:19am PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 12:20am PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 12:27am PT
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Whitecliff peak. Access is 14 mile hike from East Side near Coleville. Follows Silverking Creek to Tamarack Lake Bivy. Then 1.2 mile scramble to whitecliff lake. Topout 10,000 feet. I put up the first pitch (10A) of what would be the Regular Route but our party got drven off by hailstorm that turned to torrential rain. Plan for three days. Look for my bail anchor (a hex and stopper). Rock is Monzonite and very dirty, flaring, shallow off hands..... Most gear placements required gardening. I was emboldened by my partners, a rope gun and an EMT. I wonder if anybodies done it since?
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Oct 14, 2016 - 06:06am PT
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Gary. Do you know if anybody has been on that Kaweah Peaks Ridge? I wonder what that ridgetop traverse is like.
I know people have tried it, someone must have been successful.
Oh, according to summitpost:
Sean O'Rourke completed the traverse from Mount Kaweah to Black Kaweah in 19 hours from Mineral King, taking the easier (5.4) route outlined below. I have been unable to find reports of other attempts, successful or not.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Santa Cruz Dome (across from The Watchtower in Sequoia NP)
Let us know!