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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
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Ahh, the beauty of the full weight head! No fillet please.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 12, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
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I was about 16, so it was around '77 or so.
It was a lazy, humid July morning and my partner and I decided to go over to Whitenorse and just have fun cruising something on the slabs. When we got to the base of the slabs and there was already a party preparing to climb on the 'rope up ledge. By the time we got to the ledge the leader was already about 30 - 40 feet up the slabs.
They were doing 'Standard' so we started up 'Sliding board'
This was a fascinating couple.
They had (no joke):
Klettershoes
Lederhosen
Goldline
a nut or two
a couple each blades, bugs, arrows, baby and standard angles.
In talking with them I learned that they had lived in Jackson for the past 40 something years.
During conversation the guy was dropping names like 'Stannard', 'Fritz', 'Robert and Merriam' to name a few.
A pitch or so up the route we notice Joe Lentini had shown up guiding a small group of beginners for EMS.
He and his class are all up on the rope up ledge when what do you know ?
'pang, smack, pang, ping, bing, bing, beeeng'...
goes the sound of chromolly being Beaten into service.
Lentini looks up and starts yelling:
"Someone's driving pitons I can hear it, God Damnit"
"who's doing that, stop driving pins damn nit"!
He was looking up at me, belaying my partner and shooting me some serious 'stink eye'.
That afternoon I saw joe at his car on the auto road.
So I walked over and talked to him. As soon as I mentioned the sounds of pins being driven, he went ballastic, spouting expletives of all kinds. Until that is, I told him about the couple that was responsible and the fact that the guy's first time up 'Standard' was way before I and possibly Joe, were ever born.
I don't know who the guy and his wife were.
Sure was cool though,
watching someone cruise 'Standard'
in that style,
at that time.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
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School of hard knots....LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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A couple of classic shots from State Of The Art by Hudon and Jones Mountain 66 & 67. 1979.
Max on The Beast (5.11), a Jimmy Dunn route at Cathedral Ledge. Mark Hudon photo.
Max Jones leading the 3rd ascent, Mark belaying. Ed Webster photo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
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Bump for crankin' Al Rubin, who got the whole thing started!
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Bump for Al:
"America's leading second" as he often referred to himself.
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jstan
climber
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An here I thought I had said everything I had to say.
TB:
Yeah, the chance to see times from out of the past is fascinating. Makes one realize the thing that makes the present so special is that it is now. What you saw was characteristic on the East coast between about 1965 and 1968. By 1969 the cliffs sounded just like an iron foundry.
I know very well how your friend Joe felt, but I myself was never able to criticize directly anyone using a pin. Suppose I did and they subsequently were injured or killed? People back then were very keen on solving problems. Make a problem known and the answer would come out all on its own.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
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Somewhere it's always summer.....and Ed is always smiling. Here's why....From Climbing #43 July August 1977.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
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Edster Bump!
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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The best thing about New Hampshire is there are other people named Cilley.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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Cilley new englanders????? Seriously, how many and where is the heart of Cilleyness????
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perswig
climber
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I had forgotten about Bill Aughton (pic above) - taught my 1st WFR course out of SOLO; had some gnarly pics of treating shrapnel injuries and traumatic amputations. Hard to reconcile his soft-spoken demeanor with life as a British commando, but there you go.
Did he not have something to do with the early IME?
Dale
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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As if you didnt know Steve.The heart of Cilleyness is Cilleyville NH.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Can anyone live in Cilleyville or is it an enclave?
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Mar 11, 2009 - 10:01am PT
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As long as you are willing to Live Free Or Die,anyone can live there.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2009 - 11:31am PT
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Free is when you don't have to do nothin' or pay nothin'. We want to be free.....free as the wind.
There has to be a LFOD route somewhere in the granite state
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Mar 12, 2009 - 11:43am PT
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Steve, Every route in the Granite State is a LFOD route!!!!!
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Mar 12, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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Good Question, I've never seen or heard of LFOD route. Maybe this season...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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History bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 09:38pm PT
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And another, bump!
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