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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2007 - 06:00am PT
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Any List will be incomplete and if you still climb the list will change a little as time passes. As I thought of the top ten I skipped past the books to the flesh.
Some of the listed I did not know but learned something from them, good and bad.
Reading about a climb or climber is far from the influence one gets at the crag.
Gary Rule and Dave Nettle for taking a back packer–surfer to Jtree
I met Gary and Pat Nay on Mt Whitney. They were those guys that carry ropes and that other stuff that you can’t eat, wont keep you warm, what’s the point?
The shoulder strap broke on my assault pack so Gary loaned me one.
They were gone when we returned to base camp.
When I stopped by MT High to return the Pack I was on my way to IV on a girl run.
Gary and Dave Nettle were going to Jtree that night. Gary kept telling me what a blast it would be. I knew what a weekend in IV (1976) would be like, Fing great. But this climbing thing what was it?
Waking up in Jtree having never seen it before was surreal. The climbing mind blowing. My life was changed forever.
Accomazzo
First for showing me Tuesdays and Thursdays at Santee Boulders what was possible along with Very Honorable Mention Dick Shockley
Barber
No positive interaction, I was on Surprise watching this guy floating up a harder route to the right. Really impressive till I heard him dishing the climbers who over bolted the Weeping Wall. I replied if you don’t like them don’t clip them.
I also saw him later solo and knew he probably didn’t need the bolts.
Epperson
Inspiration and Honesty both in climbing and art, wood or camera. Need anyone say more!
E. Erickson
For asking me to belay him on Rebolting Development . May 78 It took a while but it showed me being stuck at 5.9 sucked and was unnecessary
Gordon
Too long of a list. Burleys, Soloing, Simo-climbing, and introducing me to a wide range of folks.
Gullich
Before I knew how great of a climber he was I was impressed with him as a person from conversations that started with climbing but went beyond the Lodge Parking Lot and the Valley.
Dennis Kemp
I was blown away at 23 hanging and climbing with Dennis. On this day we were climbing with Julie. It was the second or third climb of the day, Crescent Arch. Hanging at the belay I looked at him thinking aloud damm you must be 45 and still climbing. He started laughing and asked how old I really thought he was? Sh#t I said all you guys over 30 look the same to me.
He said he was 56 and Julie was 32 and I knew I would climb for ever.
Long
Before the books, Largo was inspiration to the masses, He was approachable for even the likes of me from Jtree to the Valley.
I remember one time , I remember lots of times he was everywhere and go from funny as hell to sobering
Skinner
Todd got me on the hardest climbing I was to ever to do or attempt. He made me believe he was sure I could do it. It was me that was not so sure.
Ten is so incomplete
Even to say a list of Ten is so incomplete falls short. I am truly blessed with all the strangers and friends I have spent time with.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 30, 2007 - 10:09am PT
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I learned a lot from partners who had wider visions:
Joe Herbst
Roger Briggs
Paul Sibley
Bill Roos
Ron Cox
Henry Barber
Jim Ewing
George Hurley
Bill Thompson
Steve Wunsch
Then there's Warren Harding (only climbed with him once but I coveted his routes), and others I never did climb with but whose writings or routes had much influence -- that list gets too long.
But it's interesting too that a lot of what I learned about climbing grew out of adventures with partners who knew no more than I did -- we muddled along together and figured stuff out on our own.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 30, 2007 - 10:16am PT
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Dave Farny- who ran the Telluride Mountaineering School, where I learned to climb at age 14.
Walter Bonatti- for his amazing adventures (and great literature).
Royal Robbins-I reread Basic and Advanced Rockcraft a bazillion times looking for insight as a youth.
Warren Harding-for his iconoclastic style.
Henry Barber- who also taught at the Telluride Moutaineering School, he took me for my first lead and multi-pitch first ascent along the Animas River in the San Juans in 1978.
Werner Braun- taught me that there was more to climbing than just climbing.
John Bachar- the master of focus.
Walt Shipley-adding a little wildness into the sport.
Alex Lowe-when Alex and I climbed Mescalito together in four days, it really changed my perspective on what was possible.
Xaver Bongard--an incredible spirit.
Honorable mention: the Josh Crowd--Watusi, John Freriks, Watusi, Dick Cilley, Todd Gordon,Russ, and many others, who raised the dirtbag lifestyle to a fine art (when I first visited California in 1980 and hung out in Josh for a few weeks, I couldn't believe living in the dirt could be SO much fun!).
edit: Chuck Kroger could easily be on this list, too, though I didn't really start climbing with Chuck until relatively recently. As two old farts, we sure had a lot of fun climbing some great bypassed classics, like Lizard Head and Zoroaster. Of course, he was a hero of my youth for his early first ascent on El Cap.
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Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
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Dec 30, 2007 - 10:57am PT
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My climbing partners have had much more influence on me than the legends of climbing.
Michael Immerwahr for getting me to quit my job and go on my first road trip and inspiring to me to do "the classics" and for opening my eyes about big wall climbing.
Michael Williams for showing me that it's possible to look smooth climbing and for always having a positive attitude.
Mark Langley for showing me the ropes on all the great climbs in Boulder Canyon during my first year of climbing.
Patricia Li for showing me that girls can be just as tough on the big walls as the guys.
Chet Moritz for being showing me that training is probably more important than talent and leads to the confidence necessary for greater adventures.
Dale Remsberg for his unbound energy for ice climbing and for pushing me to lead my first WI5 the candadian rockies.
Forrest Noble for showing me that with a strong head it's possible to lead 5.11 trad in Eldo off the couch and for his never ending enthusiasm.
Phoebe Quincy for being a great partner on and off the rocks and for making a day of easy climbing just as fun as a big under taking.
Bea Wallace for showing me that persistence and devotion can over come fear and lead to continued improvement.
Jon Sargent for proving that even bad accident can be an adventure if you keep your wits about you and work as a team just like you would on the climb. And for being the strongest climber I know.
Honorable mentions for books that really influence what I've done or how I climb:
Yvon Chouinard/Doug Robinson for writing Ice Climbing
Roper/Steck for writing the 50 classics
John Middendorf for writing the first Big Wall Climbing book.
Mark Twight for writing Extereme Alpinism
Pat Ament for How to be a Master Climber
Warren Harding for Downward Bound
Eric Horst for How to Climb 5.12
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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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Dec 30, 2007 - 11:02am PT
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Burt Bronson.
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 30, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
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DMT,
Hey, what a blast from the past...how is Stu doing? Stu and I tried to get together years ago and since lost touch.
 ec
edit: By the way, IMHO this is will be a bit more interesting than the other '10' list. - ec
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 30, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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My dad
Ken Hritz
Chuck Blackwell
Jack McBroom
Troy Mayr
Jeff Tolekson
Mike Waugh
Stoney Point Jim
Bob Kamps
Curt Lyons
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Wrathchild
Big Wall climber
Satan's testicles
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Dec 30, 2007 - 06:06pm PT
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Harding
Messner
Duece
The Bird
Salathe
Whymper
Bonnington
Mark Synnott
And the guy who forced me onto the wall more than anyone else...
Keith Lober
Avoiding that prick launched me up many a wall in haste.
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Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
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Dec 30, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
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I was more influenced by my climbing partners than the great legends of climbing.
My wife Kelle’ Harter together we could do any thing we put our minds to. No mater how epic it was we would get through it together.
Mark Miller no matter what climbing is just about having fun doesn’t matter what level, grade or number you are climbing you should be having fun period. Mark likes climbing with me caused I don’t mind if he drinks and I’m up for anything.
Mike Carville:
• To look for rest in the most unusual places.
• Ethics and ground up bolting practices.
I asked Mike why he liked climbing with me one day he said “Because you’re really safe and fun to be with.” Funny what I remember most about climbing with him was his constant big grin always enjoying the moment.
Steve Glotfelty: How to set a bolt correctly and make a quality FA that others would appreciate.
Jim Arnold (426) How to flag and back step.
Jay Anderson (Jaybro) to appreciate a good extra wide crack other wise know as offwidth.
Dan Osman:
• To use chalk on my shoes when climbing slick rock if my shoes where dirty.
• For all the climbing partners, about 75% of my climbing partners are Dano’s old partners from when he first started climbing.
• For creating the climbing program at Rite of passage where I was a climbing instructor at.
Kirby Waterman: For teaching me about the suttees of anchors.
Mike Ierien: Have fun be positive and train hard.
Tommy Herbert: Keep working toward your goal and practice imaging see your self succeeding in the route and you will achieve it. When I asked Tommy why he wanted to climb with me he said “You make a good anchor.” His references was to me being the anchor LOL.
Well know Climbers that I have not climbed with but have influenced me somewhat.
John Long and the Fish love their humor and JL reminds me that big guys can climb.
Mugs Stumps reminds me that big guys can climb boldly.
Ron Kauk Ron is a jokester as I learned and will get you to do his dirty work and you will be laughing too.
Jim Bridwell always fun to stop and have a few beers with and BS about the route that we just climbed and when he did the same route 20 years ago.
TM Herbert: Older guys can still climb and have fun.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:07pm PT
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I'd have to start with my old friend Roger Wilson, who pretty much taught me how to climb in the early '70's. After which it would have to be my mainstay SD local crowd that I hung with religiously...Bob Van Belle, Alan Nelson, Galen Kirkwood and Doug White, there were others but these were core! Werner Landry and his group greatly influenced me as well. Then I got to know John Long when I was very young, when he worked at the local Ski-Mart in PB where I grew up. Being an avid Woodson local my first accomplishments were to climb many of John Bachar's fine routes, and throughout my climbing days he was always my greatest inspiration! In my later travels I'd met countless of other inspirational folks but I think I learned the most from perhaps Werner Braun, with his infinite wisdom and calm demeanor, and my long time friend, Roy McClenahan with whom I'd gotten to do some really fine things over my years climbing...
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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Fred Lepsy books taught me more about cliimbing, then any partner. Brilliant.
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
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Having barely two years of climbing under my belt, I'm rather impressionable so anyone I rope up with is going to have a big influence. I am hard-pressed to think of 10 people I've climbed with yet, but at the top of my list would be one of your own Supertopians, Kevin Rose.
I didn't know what "burly" meant until I thrutched up a few offwidths behind this guy. He can make any climb look easy and loves rock more than anyone I know.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 30, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
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I'm mostly going to the formative years with this one. though I can see I've left out people like Layne Kopishka, Kim walker, Jerry DeCamp and what's his name (Jon Garson)
The Bros Stettner
My Dad
Chazbro
Mike Friedrichs
Manny Rangel
-If you guys knew what these last two have been through and still keep on going, you'd be amazed.
Doug Cairns
Bob Scarpelli
Dru Marquardt
The Colonel
Henry Barber (got me into OW)
Have to squeeze Walt in here no matter the numbers, no body else showed me what is possible than he did.
Hosts of others, many of whom are here in Tacoland, who were and continue to be influential and continually supportive.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 30, 2007 - 11:43pm PT
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Robbins for the books that taught us how to climb.
Choinard for the catalog that taught us how and why to use clean pro.
Mike Waugh for always being great competition and a near perfect climbing partner.
Dave Hauser for teaching me how to put routes up and that it isn't important to put lots up, just make sure each one is stellar.
Bachar for showing us all what style and commitment can get you.
Largo for showing us that you could do it all and still get away with acting like a buffoon.
Bob Kamps for showing us what being a great human being was about.
Herb Laeger for showing us that sometimes over the top really is too far over the top.
Dick Shockley for showing us how to do it all more stoned that any of us believed possible.
Kris Solem for showing what technique will get you that strength won't, and for being a great partner for many, many years.
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abisharat
climber
CO
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Dec 31, 2007 - 12:07am PT
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my fingers, thumb to thumb
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Dec 31, 2007 - 12:10am PT
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Jens Holsten
Mikey Schaeffer
Rob Miller
James Selvidge
Siemay Lee
Alex Honnold
Lucho Rivera
Jamie Mundo
Max Hasson
Justen Sjong
funny andrew
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:19am PT
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Like Watusi, those who influenced my climbing the most were those I actually climbed with a good deal.
John Gill
John Stannard
John Arthur - my first climbing partner
Mark Jacobs
Chris Jones
Bob Williams
Corey Chatwin
Chris Raypole
I've had a bunch of other excellent climbing partners over the years, but these were the guys who truly inspired me.
Curt
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:32am PT
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Tim Schinhoffen opened my eyes to the bigger picture. He built in me a respect for the big mountains.
Buck Branson - possibly the most stoked climber I've seen. When I first started out years ago as a teenaged gym rat, he was cool enough to show me basics that would have kept me elsewhere.
Timmy Oneil. Its weird to say, he probably doesn't remember me from Adam. The three times I've met Timmy (san diego, JT, el cap meadow) I got the feeling that one of the most important things you can do as a climber is to be in love with the sport. He loves it -- you could be toproping a 5.6 in a podunk chosspile in kentucky and he would want to hear about it. The only 'pro' (hard to use that word with climbers lol) that seemed like a guy I could hang out with. Tommy, chris and the hubers? A little intimidating!
My mom. Got me into climbing. had some of my best experiences doing aesthetic and memorable peaks in the sierras. She's 54 and has no sign of slowing down. Best attitude of anyone I've ever climbed with. Sometimes in better shape than me. Inspiring, if humbling.
Well I don't have ten. I'm also 23. See you out there maybe?
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:59am PT
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Matt Robertson
BJ Bailey
Sean Burns
Josh Thompson
Sean Kriletich
Aaron Smith
Bob Jensen
Jake Whitaker
Chad Shepard
CJ Pearson
Ted Roberts
All in no particular order
.....Because they have all taught me how to climb at various points in time, and provided the the best friendship I have ever had.....
If any of you fellers are reading this. THANKS!!!
Many more pitches to come
Patrick
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 31, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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Hey scooter!- we have one in common.
Really dig this thread.
Sean "Bovine" Burns-
For taking me under his wing even though I was obnoxious and clueless. His patience and expectations lead me to discover what climbing could offer. He would always see through my BS(still does) and pushed me to be honest, and bold. The soul of an artist, with the mind of an engineer.
Jesse "Messy" Gross-
One of my earliest climbing partners who has suffered with me the most. Taught and still teaches me that climbing is just one piece of the puzzle of life. Always sees me as stronger than I really am which in turn makes me so.
Clay Frisbee-
I have only climbed with him once, but this guy has inspired me since I first met him in '95. He was scribbling notes in his first guidebook to northern Arkansas. At that point he had well over 500 FA's in the ozark hills. Now it numbers into the thousands and he continues to inspire, including a N&HDIAD ascent. Taught me that it doesn't have to be "pretty" to be pretty.
Kurt "The General" Smith-
Before I even had the chance to be friends with him, he inspired me by his reputation as a route "artist". He taught me to never be pigeon holed into a certain style, to be bold, and to be expressive. He also taught me how to bolt on lead without dying. Still an "artist" after all these years.
Ben "Manboobs" Williams-
When he was 18 he cold called me and announced his name and that he "wanted to learn to trad climb." Well he learned all right, and quickly passed me up. We have since had many adventures, dragging each-other up our own separate "visions".
He taught me to never give up for a redpoint, and that training on a hangboard and campus rungs are worth the suffering and boredom. A constant source of inspiration and encouragement.
Craig Luebben-
Taught me to find what discipline I love and am best at and pursue it like a bulldog. Also taught me to stop running it out on offwidths.
Tricia Collins-
Teaches me that I don't have to excel for it to be fun, and to always look at climbing as a beginner, so I never cease to stop learning. I was always afraid to get married, cuz my life of adventure would disappear. Every year since I have increased my climbing fulfillment, primarily due to her encouragement and blessing.
Allen Currano-
This dude has belayed me on more pitches than anyone- from above and below. He has massaged away altitude sickness at 14k; he has talked me into things I never thought I could do, and taught me to laugh at the most serious of moments. Always encourages me as an artist, on the rock and off.
Randy Leavitt-
I've never climbed with him, but his all around skill and performance in so many disciplines has always inspired me to push harder.
Dean Potter-
An artist in climbers clothing. If he hadn't found climbing, he would had to have found vision somewhere else. Taught me to never ignore the word "intuition".
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
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Mark Morrison, Jeremy Griffiths, Wade Griffith, Kevin Seibke, Pat Parmenter, Jonathon Waters(sp?)
Honorable mention: Albert "Sunny" Korfanta
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
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Rusty Baillie
David Lovejoy
Mike Goff
Syndicata Granitica crew...
Robbins
Matt Perlman
Dave Shotwell
Todd Kearns
I started climbing in ariz, so those folks putting up climbs in Az were who we looked up to. Robbins came thru and put up routes at the Granite Dells and thumb Butte. Barber came thru too...
Oh yea, that old bearded f*#ker in jeans and Ebs who walked all our topropes in Sullivans canyon in 1987. That dude could climb!!!
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 31, 2007 - 02:26pm PT
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Jim Bouck, if you're out there, thanks for your time taking kids like me to Joshua Tree, just hanging out and being intentional about character.
Tim Hall
Robbins
Harding
Bridwell
Jensen
Largo, via a cool poster I had on my wall as a midteen. Largo is making a wild leap for a jug with lots of air and the following poem:
A true adventure flouts one's common sense,
Like swapping life for one's experience
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dec 31, 2007 - 02:43pm PT
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Mine are split between early mentors (real and virutal) and regular partners and a couple of people that I know less well but whose approach to weekend warriordom is something I do try to emulate.
J
Lawrence G.
Bernie R.
Kate R.
Allen C.
Leo B.
Ed H.
Eric G.
Jo W.
Clint C.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Dec 31, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
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Doug Weins; After all of my early adventures, my partner and I went to the Fresno Robbins Mh. Shop to report and get advice from Doug. A wonderful encouraging, calm and confident man. Taken far too young. He still inspires me, not so much for his achievements, which were considerable, but for his attitude and manner.
Larry Zulim; My mentor and still my hero. Enthusiastic, fun, encouraging. I am proud to have followed him around Yosemite like a puppy dog!
Mike Latendresse; A brilliant and incredibly competant man, with whom I have had the most amazing and fun adventures. Always pushes me and anyone else who teams with him. Many of my best techniques and habits were learned from Mike.
Mike Borrelli
Tuckess Menchu; Two partners who have taught and encouraged me through friendship and caring.
Richard Leversee for pushing me into some adventures that I probably would not have done otherwise. And for appreciating some of the weird stuff that got me sidetracked from climbing.
Walt Shipley, for his wild attitude, but solid friendship.
Barry Chambers, who I helped influence from caving to climbing, but who now takes me under his wing.
Numerous partners whose names I can't remember.
All the explorers who came through Fresno and gave inspiring slide shows at the old Robbin's Mt. Shop in the '70s and '80s.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 31, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
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Gotta second (and steal) this one;
"Richard Leversee for pushing me into some adventures that I probably would not have done otherwise. And for appreciating some of the weird stuff that got me sidetracked from climbing. "
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 31, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
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started to make a list and realized it was impossible to narrow it down without thinking about it. I may have a list in another thread already and man names already mentioned that taught me the stuff about climbing that matters.
for sure over the last several years, the SPH crew.
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Chippychopperone
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Dec 31, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
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Ron Olevsky: for engineering routes in Zion in which I could safely learn wall climbing
George Lowe: for doing routes so far ahead of his time
Charlie Porter: for inspiring me to solo big walls
John Middendorf: for writing a book in which helped me learn wall climbing
John Long: for writing a book in which helped me learn wall climbing
Harvey Carter: for putting up some damn good desert routes
Layton Kor: for putting up some damn good desert routes
Calder Stratford: for being a humble badass
John Otto: for being a nut with a big drill and some steel pipe
The White Harlem Crew: for being the raddest dudes ever to climb with!
TDA
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 31, 2007 - 07:54pm PT
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It's great to see how many people were influenced by others that they met and climbed with. That's what I was going to do, give some props to the unknown/little know climbers that are great or greatly influenced us. For me its a mix.
Greg Scopazzi, between greg and mountaineering freedom of the hills we survived the early years. Greg taught me to keep going and not give up on our first successful wall even though nothing went according to plan. With his encouragement, we beat the urge to bail and a whole new world opened up.
This guy named Wade. I don't remember his last name, but when I was starting out we had some great times. I went from climbing 5.8 to 5.10 in a week becuase he showed me that I could. It was strangley simple. I hope he's out here on the Taco somewhere.
Werner and Merry Braun, both taught me everything abount yosemite climbing and a whole lot more. Lot's of how to live right from these two. Heck I quote Werner all the time, "It's not the boots, its the guy in the boots."
My buddy Peter, probably the worst influence a climber could have. When we get together, we shoot the sh#t until noon, decide not to climb roped, then go bouldering and get almost nothing done.
Most of my best days have been with Peter.
Jake Whitaker, for showing me that guys that I know can climb really hard.
Gaston Rebuffat for the book that opened my eyes to the whole deal.
I was always impressed with Scott Burke's work on the nose. It was too hard, but he stuck with it like no one should.
Is that ten? Don't matter no one will read this far anyway
Tom
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Dec 31, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
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Well my personal list is gonna be somewhat southern Cali-centric.
Of course I'll start with a Graham (Mike), then jump to an Accomazzo, move on to a predictable Long, move sideways to a somewhat trendy but important Barber, then hop backwards to a Muir (Robs), hop again forward to a Cox followed by a big jump forward with an also popular but critical Bachar, a tippy lurch back again to a Harrison (Richard), then way into the future again with an equally important Kauk and then finally a most critical and inspirational (and 50 year old) Aidan Maguire.
Oh yeah and I can't forget to throw an all important Erikson (E) on the stack (though I'm now at 11).
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Dec 31, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
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Mark Leffler
Eric Schmidt
Alan Moore
Tommy Caldwell
Beth Roden
Ron Kauk
Kevin Cuckavich
Vic Copeland
Tim Doyle
John Sherman
-Justin
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 31, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
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10 climbers?
Rich Simms??? You start at 0 for suggesting this impossible list.
Good on yah mate.
TEN, That ain't gonnah cover it, not by a long shot.
I'm quite certain 150 would be a squeeze.
1) Doug Munoz aka AKDog:
Because when we were but 13, he suggested we start climbing.
2) Royal Robbins:
Yah, well, Basic Rockcraft kept us alive.
3) Larry Stone aka LLoads:
Would pick me up every Friday at High School and drive us to JT in his Dodge Power Wagon, with his Colombian gold and a Heineken sixer at the ready.
4) Al Bartlett aka Big Al:
Who let us in on the idea that Yos wasn’t all and that Sierra high country granite beckoned.
5) Darrel Hensel aka Henny:
Toted the rope for me on my first good string of 5.10 slabs.
6) Erik Erickson aka E:
Extended a rack of 4 nuts and tossed me out on lead on one of my first 5.10’s.
7) Kevin Powell aka Dimes:
Showed me the beauty of Jim Morrison & The Doors and granted entrée to the Stonemasters
8) John Long:
For his suggestion to get on with it and throw ourselves up on things NOW.
9) Dan Michael:
It was his idea we do Astroman, in spite of the fact we’d put few Valley standards under our belts.
10) Bachar:
Who came up with the silly idea, backed by copious example, to go full bore, full time.
11) Eric Patterson aka Goatboy:
Who this year supplied the chiba and held the rope for my most recent forays into the high crags. (NEVER underestimate the influence of your current ropemates, that means YOU Chiloe & Stich.)
And all the rest of ya, you know who you are -Jeff Sewell, John Freriks, Russ Walling, Mike Paul, Mike & Mari, DEEE, Randy Vogel, Craig Fry, Spencer, BVB, T Gordon Guy Kesee, Nick Badyrka, Shawn Curtis, Maria, Dick Shockley et al, just for starters...
…*WAY* too many to list here and it’s a CRIME that I have not done so (may have to do some ongoing editing):
Thanks & Happy New Year!!!
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Dec 31, 2007 - 10:18pm PT
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Justin,
Tim Doyle's an amazing climber, so static and strong. You ever climb with Ben Harden up in Squampton?
Jake Whittaker's another offensively strong climber. Freerider in a day is pretty proud.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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It's so hard to limit it to just 10 but here goes:
Ted Polk- he sponsored me at age 14 so I could enroll in the Sierra club's BMTC, which started it all for me in 1977. He would drive to my parent's house & drive me to the classes & back each week & to whatever outings were on the weekends.
Gaston Rebuffat- authored the book the Mont Blanc Massif, which I poured through & devoured & inspired me to venture into the mountains.
Randy Leavitt - his friendship & all around honedness were something to aspire to.
Royal Robbins - for bringing Yosemite wall climbing to a high art & redefining what was possible.
Matt Oliphant - his incredible footwork & mellow manner helped me immeasurably. Climbing with Matt raised my climbing to a new level, and made me realize that ratings were just numbers & not to be intimidated by them.
Erik Erickson - pairing up with E helped me to refine my aid climbing to a much higher level than I ever thought possible. He even tolerated the couple times when I "went snail-eye", on the big stone and didn't want to lead my pitch. E pushes himself harder than anybody and never blinks or shows fear, even in the scariest of situations.
Tom Gilje - for boldness beyond my comprehension.
Mike "Mo" Lechlinski - for calculated boldness beyond my comprehension.
Steve "Lucky" Smith - for showing me that 1 day ascents of El Cap routes were doable for mere mortals.
Dan Hershman - for being the most reliable, open minded , solid partner one could ever want to share a rope with. Many of my best ascents were with Dan
Special mention***
David Tidwell - for lowering me off the end of the rope & dropping me 25 feet at Rock Creek, injuring me pretty seriously. It taught be to me much more selective in whom I choose to climb with from then on.
There are easily another 10 worth mentioning but these are the biggest influences for me.
Levy aka Bill
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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James- never had the pleasure to climb with Ben Harden unless I did but did not know his name. Word on the Jake Whittaker call. I'd actually include Nunnely in that mix too. Who would expect a guy like him to climb as hard as he does coming from where he's been.
-Justin
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Good time at the end of the year to ponder such things......
Kent Maddin; Took me on my first climb in 1972 while on an "outward bound type " course........I liked the feeling from the get-go
Tim Heatherington Introduced me the real world of climbing, leading, going for it, and road tripping. (Tim had a stroke in his early 20's, and never recoved his strength, mobility, or motivation to climb again....he was bad-ass during his short reign....)
Ian Carter/Mike Brown/ Reggie Thompson/Shari Brown This crew taught me that you NEVER miss a weekend of climbing, and ALWAYS climb every free day you have;....NO exceptions. We did our first big walls together. Great climbing partners.
(left to right; Todd Gordon, Ian carter, Mike Brown)
Kelly Vaught (AKA The Troll). Couldn't ask for a better climbing partner; Strong, confident, talented , experienced, brave, and smart. As good a climbing partner as anyone on the planet.
Dave Evans; Probably the best climbing partner I roped up with;....With Dave, I would try any climb and know that 99% of the time, we would kick ass. His motivation, drive, focus, and talent were awesome, and even in dicey times, I would still just think to myself...." If I'm gonna die today, at least I'm with my best bud....."......
Tom Michael; Another exceptionally talented, motivated, experienced , and confident climber. I have traveled and climbed in many places with Tom, and always had a great time. I feel the same about Tom as I do Dave Evans;....I am lucky to have such great friends and climbing partners.
Tom Burke; Loud, crazy, fun, funny, motivated, dedicated, and outrageous. When Tom was around, EVERYONE had fun. He was a pied piper for fun, and had a string of groupies/fans/friends that loved his energy. He died of cancer about 2 years ago.....I think of him almost daily still;....he was maybe 46 years old. Tom climbed all over the world, in many countries, and on most continents.
Al Bartlett. One of the most prolific climbers on the planet. He has dedicated his life to climbing and climbers. We don't always see eye to eye, but we did alot of climbing together, and we both love climbing....maybe too much. Big Al and I have shared a rope together hundreds of times.
Cyndie Bransford. For about a decade, I climbed about 150 days each year with Cyndie. She was tough, experienced, well traveled, and motivated. When you climbed with Cyndie, you got up your climb. Her climbing resume' is quite impressive;....and she worked her ass off too, struggling through all the grades until she was on top of her game. A great climbing partner for me; one of the best.
Michael Paul. Again;...Mike took me on my first 5.10 climb, my first F A, and taught me what it is like to be a real rock climber. His talent, drive, and motivation we almost unmatched during his hayday; He set the foundation for me to build an awesome climbing career on; I learned so much from Michael.
Brian Povolny. I did some of my most outrageous and wild climbs with Brian. We made a great team, and had fun too. We survived our adventures together;....this is a good thing....With Brian, it was sort of like David going after Goliath with the sling shot.....but you knew that together we could always kick Goliath's butt.....
Tony Sartin. I took Tony on his first climb, his first road trips, first nail-ups, first Yo and canyonlands trips,....first FA's......took him by the hand, and now he is one of So. Cal's best , most talented, and motivated climbers......and he still is my bro, keeps in contact with me usually weekly, and didn't get scared off by my marriage, or my children and "new" lifestle. My friend for life. We did alot of really awesome climbs together too.
Mike Lechlinski. Mike is one of the most talented climbers I have ever roped up with. Strong, brave, confident, talented, and pretty casual about it all too. Always fun to climb with, and always shreaded. Mike is a WAY better climber than I ever was or ever even dreamed of being, but he was a great friend to me and a person I learned alot from and I always respected as a true climber and true friend.
Greg Epperson. Talented, motivated, strong, and brave. Greg is a great climbing partner, and a great friend. I can always count of Greg to always be there for me. I have had many great trips and climbs with Greg, and many more to come, I am sure.
Kyle Copeland. Kyle is another friend like Lechlinski;...sort of out of my league as far as talent and ability, but still my true friend and someone I always respected and enjoyed to be around. Kyle is very ill presently, but will cash in his chips when the time is right for him. My life is much richer from our friendship and adventures together.
Andrea Gordon. My wife, who taught me that climbing is just for fun, and that it's not a religion. She showed me another way to look at the world, climbing, myself, and others. She climbed for fun, had fun climbing, and climbed for all the right reasons. She is an awesome mother to our children, and the one for me.
George Armstrong. Great guy, great climbing partner, great friend. George, like myself, has turned the page, and now is daddy more than climbing machine. I have the greatest respect for George as a climber, friend, and parent. He is awesome. I went with him one one of his many expeditions to Pakistan.
Tucker Tech. I've done about 400 F A's with Tucker; We make a strong team. I love to climb; Tucker loves to drink beer and climb. He's my true friend and my climbing partner until I croak. Tucker is a very talented and strong climber, and not too many people on planet earth climb as much as Tucker.
Tim Pinar; Great guy, great friend, great climber. Tim is one of my main climbing partners, and will help me remain a climber as I grow older and weaker.
That was more than 10......ooops......I have been very lucky to have lots of great climbing partners;...these are some of the ones who have influence me the most. When you are old, you just have more friends, I suppose.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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In no particular order:
Dean Potter
Jim Bridwell
Steve Gerberding
Eric Kohl
Fred Beckey
Scott Stowe
Chris McNamara
Brian McCray
Conrad Anker
Jose Pereyra
Honorable mention:
Timmy O’Neill, Kevin Thaw, Ivo Ninov, Charles Cole, John Long, Ron Kauk, Dale Bard, Chuck Pratt, Mike Ousley, Ric Cashner, Werner Braun, Dan Osman, Jason “Singer” Smith, Sean “Stanley” Leary, Russ Metrovitch, Walt Shipley, Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Bryan “Coiler” Kay, Ryan Frost, Mark Synnott, Cheryl Seger, Jake Whitaker, Bill Russell, Charlie Porter, Bryan Law, Ron Olevsky, Warren Hollinger, Joe French, John Middendorf, Kelly Cordes, Peter Mayfield, Jeff Lowe, John Rzeczycki, Cedar Wright, Eric George, Al “Dude” Swanson, Lynn Hill, Wally Barker, Tom Frost, Wayne Wiloughby, Jeff Hornibrook, Mark Garbarini, Jon Blair, Andres "Chili Dog" Zegers, Steve Snieder, Dave Bengston, Jay Smith, Bob Jensen, Brent Armstrong, John Bachar, Brian Jonas, Pat Brennan, Brad Bond, Tommy Tompson, Jonathan Thesenga, Hans Florine, Dave Yerrian, Dean Miller, Matt Wilder, John Dickey, Russ Walling, Andrew McGary, Eric Odenthal, Grant Hiskes, Kevin Conti, Larry Harpe, Micah Dash, Mike Schaffer, Scott Burk, Sean Jones, Chris Van Lueven, Dave Grisham, Stoney Richards, Leo Burk, Layton Korr, Scott Cosgrove, Mike Pennings, Jeff Hollenbach, Doug Heinrich, Joe Puryear, Galen Rowel, Kyle Copeland, Eric Ericson, Greg Epperson, Mugs Stump, Brian Smoot, Xaver Bongard, Linus Platte, Peter Croft, Alex & Thomas Huber, Gabriel McNeely, Steve Grossman, Rob Miller, Warren Harding, Royal Robbins, Joe Auer, Chongo, Bernie, Jay…
Ok, I could go on forever with the honorable mentions… you guys know who you are. ;)
Like others have said, ten is just not enough…
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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The Gleason brothers, both generations.
Largo, from all his books.
Vermin, for making it seem OK to just wanna go boldering.
Dano, from his incredible video spots and for being so cool in person to a total nobody.
Marcos, for showing me what a strong climber really was.
Mike Lewis, for dragging my carcus up the WFLT and forever curing my aid jones.
Anyone who ever caught my whippers, and that d00d Kurt who dropped me. Actually, he should be #1. Bastard.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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10 is impossible
but Rich gets some extra points for mentioning Dennis Kemp
happy New year, all!
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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So many memories of so many friends and influences, then and now. How can I narrow it down to just ten? I'll give it a good shot...
No certain order...Wish I knew how to add photos!
Adam Dick - The man had an ape index of +6, at least, a real knuckle dragger and my first climbing partner. We experienced our first roadtrip before either of us could drive, and sent 5.10's in RMNP and Eldorado canyon before we knew what 'R' or 'X' meant, and lived to tell about it. He pushed me, and I him.
Robin Coleman - A Local fellow, climbed 5.11x like it was 5.6, smooth as silk and never made a peep. Pure in nature and the eyes of a wise old man. He brought an inner peace to my climbing, the movement of it all, the flow.
Bob Scheier - What a crazy man, good friend and passionate adventurist. I learned from his mistakes...on more than one occasion!
Dave McIntire - Wise and young at heart, Dave was always game for an adventure! Four wheeling through the desert or freezing our balls off on some lonely apine peak, a true friend...Where are you Dave?
Martin Suchma - Big man with and even bigger heart. Best climbing partner ever. This guy could lead anything as long as he had a few biners and three sets of booty'd nuts. Canadian all the way and a VW lover, traveler, Father, Husband and photographer. Hope to see you soon Bro!
Shawna & Bob Allison - Father/Daughter - Selfless and giving in every way, taught many people over the years about climbing and the climbing life. Miss you Bob! Shawna, you are still climbing smooth, just get it into that over-protective head that you CAN lead it, you sent it on T.R. blindfolded!
Jeremy Collins - Yes, I remember the noob in you, but the desire in your eyes, the unwillingness to accept defeat, and the motivation to keep pressing on. Master of the heel hook, heel edge and heel useage in general. Master artist and a joy to have around. Someday I need you to teach me your skills, like I once did for you, but I like yours better!
Petr Beucek - Great pal, great roomy, great beer drinking partner, great climber and teacher of the 'knot placment' techniques that we here in the good ol US of A never learn becasue we won't stand for it! Great to have as the rope gun when the pro is sparse and the rock less-than-bomber! Hope you are still traveling about the globe. Miss ya!
Pat Warren - Who needs foot work, right? I mean back then, it was all arms, big man Pat. Now I admit times of self-induced golden showers mid-route while following this lad up some Tuolumne trickery...but still have the white-knuckle grip as I belay...remember that groundfall in JTree that I was so kind as too coushion for you bro!
Burgess Zbryk - A man of few words, traveled in style, introduced me to New Years at Hueco Tanks in the 80's. Full-on VW van, pimped out road trips....once accross Kansas, dead of winter....I remember the 720 we did in the van on I-70, many spins and controll regained...all that was said was 'Nice Recovery'.
Mike Stites, Clay Frisbee, Jesse Gross, Travis Donn, Mark Wilford, Kurt Smith, John Sherman..and the list goes on! Thanks fellas!
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durban
climber
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Dan Arnold - teaching me the ropes, being a great partner, and instilling good ethics when I was starting
Ronnie Cecil - irreplaceable friendship and encouragement.
Peter Croft - if I could pick one climber to be, it'd be him.
Clint Cummins - the epitome of generosity in a selfish sport.
John Long - his tales of jtree and tahquitz made my own backyard suddenly seem like a wonderland, and i learned a ton from his how-to's.
Jeremy Meigs - helped me become a better boulderer, and proof that you're never too strong to be the friendliest guy around.
Rob Miller - getting me in shape, keeping climbing fun, and showing what it means to try hard.
Joel Ruscher - same as Jeremy.
Justen Sjong - helping mortals reach big goals; the best teacher of climbing because he's its best student.
Joachim (Aki) Wuendisch - the partner whose ability and boldness I was always in awe of, and always laughing with (or at).
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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Jamie Bludswurth, Scott and Tim Gossard, Randy Trivet, Mark "Petch" Peitrolungo, Tad Steele, Cade Lloyd, Jeff Hornibrook, Mark Garbarini and Jon Blair. As well as Tucker Tech, Brian "the Russian Peasant" Warsaw, Andres "Chili Dog" Zegers, "Bringing beers"Bob Nolen (and the entire Humboldt Stone Ascentionists), Sean Plunkett, and of course... Grant Hiskes!
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Polar Sun
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Fritz Wiessner nearly summited K2 in 1939. No oxygen, boots probably made by his local cobbler, wool clothing, cotton shoelaces, 5.8+ climbing--maybe harder, at 7,000 meters. This would have been the first 8,000 meter summit in history, some 11 years before Herzog and Lachenal's fiasco on Annapurna, and 14 years before the heavy metal blitz of Everest by the Queen's "army."
Were it not for the alleged accidental dropping of a crampon by his Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama, they would have summited and fast-forwarded Himalayan climbing two decades into the future. All ideas about the possible would have been expanded.
And,if memory serves me correctly, the expedition had only seven members, porters excepted.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Honor and praise to the following:
-Warren Harding
-Steve Schneider
-Kris Solem
-Herb Laeger
-John Barbella
-David Hickey
-Dick Sykes
-Chuck Kroger
-Glen Dawson
-Dingus Milktoast
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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1. Marvin the Marvel,
He is the first person to take me climbing and teach me how to tie a figure eight.
2. Bob Kamps for spotting, teasing me, and being a kind teacher.
3. Aaron Sandlow for taking me to my limits and pushing me beyond.
4. Jeff Lowe for taking me out to ice climb! Having a chance to do this is blowing my mind!
5. Cosmic, because he is a really cool partner to have. (Plus, Blitz and Locker since I never have laughed so hard during a climb!)
6. Copenhagen Dreamer, because I have climbed in Greece because of him. Who can beat that? Plus he makes trips to JTree always a pleasure.
7. Guy for getting me out climbing and being a great teacher.
8. Royal Robbins for his ethics.
9. John Long, his book on anchors actually saved me during one of my first climbs. (It was also the day I learned about the danger of climbing with newbies.)
10. Michael Reardon because he really loved living and climbed with such pure joy, you just couldn't have a bad day around him. I never met his equal.
AF
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Influenced and inspired by so many, including many mentioned here. I'll go with close to home.
*Scott Davis (Aid and attitude)
* Mark Wodtli (Climbing as poetry)
*Scott Kimmet (Laid back man, climb hard but don't take this S#@T too seriously)
*Rob Lesher (Hard core, let's do another one)
*Keith Royster (Fast and light, no prisoners)
*Bob Williams (get the SYSTEM down)
*Mel Johnston (Make sure everything is right)
*Mike Seizys (The sufferer)
*Bryan Schult (Got the pipe?)
*Jim Anglin (solo attitude, keep it humble)
*Scott Burk (We can do it in a day and laugh the whole time!)
Too Many honorable mentions.....Thanks guys.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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In no particular order.....
Shipton
Messner
Bonatti
Weissner
Robbins
Frost
Kamps
Bachar
Porter
To round out a baker's dozen just add Jello, Kor and Barber.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Many already mentioned, mostly for me though...
The Cozmic Banditos - Bruce Birchell, Mel Johnston, Keith (Royster)Stevens
Mugs Stump
Ken Embree
DM
Jim Bridwell
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Risk
Mountain climber
Minkler, CA
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Besides my dad:
Royal Robbins - A childhood idle I got to sit next to at Me-&-Ed's Pizza Parlor, 1960’s
Wayne Merry - Basic Rock Climbing, YMS 1960’s out of the Lodge Lounge closet
Anton Nelson - Sierra Club outings, 1960’s
George Whitmore - Sierra Club outings, 1960’s
Tom Gerughty- YMS accent of Mt Lyell, 1968
Rich Calderwood - Sierra Club outings, 1960’s
Warren Harding – First hung out with him after the 1968 South Face Half Dome rescue at the Tuolumne CCC Lodge (YMS then), draped in a blanket, feet in a tub with hot water.
Mike Corbett – Dozens of “after work” climbs, 1980’s
Walt Shipley - Horrendous risks taught first hand
Richard C. Brown - Classic mountaineering inspiration and timeless vision of the passion, almost as much as my dad.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Other than the first entry, these are in no order:
Bob Kamps.
When I first moved to California in 1981, I went to Stoney Point. There I met Kamps, and he gave me “The Tour.” That is a day I will always remember. Of course there are many other such days too. Mr. Kamps was The Class Act in climbing.
John Bachar.
We used to follow him around Josh when he did his circuit. It was inspiring. He moved like the great ballet dancers I used to watch in NYC all the time. There is something magical about being able to move well, and at the same time do it in such a way that your pleasure in the moment is expressed to others.
Hidetaka Suzuki.
I had the privilege of climbing with him a number of times. He was very powerful and bold. Anyone who knows me has heard the story: “Klis! Klis!! …Edging shoes be much betta!!!”
Dave Mayville.
Anyone who knows Dave’s story will understand why he is a hero of mine. Also, I remember when he started climbing. And why he got the nickname “Too Strong.” But then he figured out what his feet were for and the rest is history.
Ron Carson.
When I started to try to do some of Ron’s routes my world was rocked. Climbing in the Needles when Ron was around was like being in the intake of a jet engine.
Erik Erikson.
Erik taught me the value of truth in climbing. The importance of being straight – so when you say something others will trust your word. He is the real deal. After an ascent of Astroman (yeah, we each took one fall on one of our leads,) we were walking off and Erik says “So, we come back and try it again next week?” I just kept walking, and he says “Well, you’re not satisfied are you?” We came back and did it spic and span.
Jan McCollum.
I hesitate to mention Jan here because I know it will just go to his head, but all sh+t aside, that Dude is motivated. Cranks. And is a whole lot of fun to hang with. I might have done my hardest climbs with Jan.
Clark Jacobs.
Clark was always an inspiration but recently even more so. Enough said.
Darrel Hensel.
I don’t know Darrel well; we’ve met from time to time. I have watched him climb a lot though. He is truly a master, and fun to watch.
Johnny Woodward.
The author of many of the hardest boldest bad assed climbs around is one of my personal heroes. And he is a climber who knows about style.
edit: Since the question is who influenced you the most I have to go to eleven and add he name of Rob Brown, who introduced me to wall climbing when we did Mescalito. Also he and I have done a bunch of F.A's I would not have been privy too except for his generous spirit.
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
send me on my way
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royal robbins - he spoke in one of my classes at school. plus, he's from a totally different background than a lot of climbers and he still made it.
walt shipley - he's bitchen. he had dinner with us once in tuolumne. he had twinkling eyes. have one of his quotes on my helmet. "see you in the next world. don't be late."
warren harding - harding's chimney is still my favorite climb
steph davis and
heidi wirtz and
lisa rands- pretty badass for doing all that solo roadtripping you read about them doing. that's HARD when you're a girl!
peter croft - i love his stuff on high sierra climbing!
cedar wright - i used to see him around the valley when i worked there, but i didn't know anything about climbing or the climbing subculture, but later on i was influenced by some articles of his i read when i was first getting started.
ammon mcneely - go speedster go. all around badass. 'nuff said.
tupac shakur - for telling it like it is
heidi pesterfield - for being strong, and local
joe simpson - for "touching the void"
jonny copp - "excuse me but can i be you for awhile"
stacey allison - i love her book
munge and DMT - sph 08???
the reno boys - for making me feel relaxed enough to get more confident on the rock.
quese IMC and culture shock camp - their music has gotten me through long journies
the native photographer dood we met in jtree - you're my hero dood. let's go climbing. if you see this, drop me a line.
i think that's a lot more than ten, but you know how i feel about math.
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Barto
climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Eleven, chronological, sort of:
1. Pete Wagner: In 1979, his pullup routine cranked him up to 5.11 and revealed two things: that training makes you better and that I was years from 5.11. Zen dirt-bagger too.
2. Pat Padden: Minnesota climber (FA: El Cracko Diablo, DT) Because he was the real thing: looked cool, spoke quietly, and climbed fookin' great.
3. Batso: DOWNWARD BOUND introduced me to two things: gallows humor in climbing and a climber looking badass.
4. Dan Murphy/Hobo Dan: Because he tried (and tries)to remind me that flowers and nature and crap like that should to be looked at on the way to a climb.
5. Sean Toren: Co-conspiritor on my first trip to Yosemite; unflagging belayer and devoted friend when things (like my meniscus) tore; only man I know tough enough to break his own thumb pulling down hard.
6. Mike Law: Because he wrote the hilarious Arapilles guide that admonished us all to "Fail going upwards..."
7. Mick Lovatt (GB): Super strong Brit who invited me to England (and Verdon) in the 80s where I made friends, met icons and found that the welcoming community of climbers exists worldwide.
8. Todd Skinner: Because he made climbing a great mission.
9. Tom Kalakay: We did my "greatest" climbs together. I'm indebted to him for his sound judgement and fearlessness--and for his willingness to shine the bullshit detector on me.
10. Bachar/Moffit/Edlinger/Barber/The Bird: Beacons to places, climbs, and levels of performance.
11. Kamps: Because he was an ace model of how to be an older guy: mellow, sly, moving on the rock forever.
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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I Can't believe that I've forgotten someone who definately had an influence on my climbing career as well as the way I live my life... the late great WALT SHIPLEY! One of the greatest climbers that ever was! I miss you WALT, our birthday is coming up, January 16th. I'll have an Olde- E ready for you my friend!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Tracy Franks (RIP) Took me out my first time at Spire Rock
Bill Dockins Montana legend and route pioneering afficienado.
Jeff Morris Showed me how to "work" and RP harder routes.
Joel Waltner The ulitmate "Yeah, I'm game for that." partner.
Tom Kingsbury For helping me to appreciate the expanse of the Boulder Batholith.
Chandra Easton A beautiful kind spirit with a passion for life.
Molly Dewar Encourages me to do what I love.
DFS Slacker extraordinaire and friend for life.
Brian Hagerty The dedication master.
John Wayne Haney For showing me how to be a father and a climber simultaneously.
edit: Barto, you put a smile on my face mentioning Kalakay--a Montana legend on par with Dockins and overall good guy.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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I can't put Walt on my top ten list, since I only had the chance to climb with him for a few minutes once. Of course I remember those minutes well. It was a sport climb in the ORG. My partners for the day were workin' on something and Walt saw me kickin' around and introduced himself, asking if I wanted to do a route. He let me go first, and I got about 4 or five bolts clipped before I pitched off. Walt did not really catch me, but slowed me enough that it didn't hurt when I got to the dirt. So he went up, but spaced and did not take any draws, so he just skipped the rest of the bolts. I think it was that Ned Guy's.. thing just right of ripoff.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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John Bachar
Just watching him could make you climb better. He would put it out there everyday, for all to see with no tricks, mirrors or Photoshop. Showed me what you could do with some sport specific training. Steadfast in his beliefs and ethics, and could back it up. Mental control.
Dick Cilley
Early mentor. Taught me how to drink ("make the bubbles go..."), toprope, and do the Wide. Big fan of the "take your uniform off" ie: climbing clothes, when going to Happy Hour. A shower out of a pan of water and some fresh clothes will keep you next to the Fajita Bar longer than your smelly buddies in rugby shirts. Source of great quotes. Do a 'Taco seach for proof... "tape is aid" comes to mind. Snappy dresser.
John Long
Ho man! Only guy I ever met that was actually bigger than life. Pioneer, powerhouse, and spleen busting funny. JL is the only guy out there that can get a 5.6 punter up on a 5.9, freesolo style, and talk him to the summit. "Casual Babe... you got it!"
Mike Lechlinski
Boldness and power in one package. Made it ok to put giant 5.9 runouts above 5.11 cruxes. "If you can do the 5.11, no way you should fall on the 5.9"
Mari Gingery
A perfect example of how those things on the end of your legs are for more that stuffing up someone's asss on the internet.
Warren Harding
Drove a Corvette and had chicks... who can argue with that?
John Yablonski
I've never seen anyone try harder. Yabo would pull so hard, that every vein in his body would appear on the surface of his skin, trying to escape the pressure demanded by the effort.
Jim Bridwell
What can ya say. Bad Assssss™™
Werner Braun
Makes Ernie Banks' quote "It's a beautiful day for a ballgame... Let's play two!" look like slacking. Werner flat out goes climbing. Always liked the way Werner would not suffer fools. hahahaha!
Walt Shipley
There is a lot to be said for soloing above your lead limit. The torture of "Shipley Drive" is something to behold. Self depreciating, probably never even knew how bad asss he was.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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My dad, James Evans, had me climbing at Stoney at age 5 and took me up Tahquitz, Middle Pal, Bear Creek Spire and more by age 10. He died when I was 11. We had planned to do Whitney together. His love for the Sierra is in my DNA.
Jim Angione- belayed me for a couple of thousand routes while I learned to lead.
Todd Gordon-called me from Lukachukai (out of the blue) to come and climb the Titan and a secret FA he and Brian Povolney had down in Canyon de Chelley. About 800 FA's and spires followed over 30 yrs.
Layton Kor-when his book came out it was God.
John Long-showed us nubies the ropes of Yo Valley survival, a real human being and possibly the strongest man to ever live. He still treated me as a friend after Guns and I denied him on Moonddance.
Rick Lynsky-together we could climb any wall.
Eric Ericcson-Eric is the worlds best unknown climber.Noone lives to climb and climbs to live more than E.
Royal R. and Doug Robinson- for the reasons mentioned above.
Maria Cranor-the definition of a wonderful person. She is the most well loved person to ever tug on rock shoes.
Margy Floyd Evans- my girlfriend and wife of 26 years. She made it possible.
Yes, a list of only 10 is tough. I would like to list most everybody I grew up and climbed with. The so cal scene back in the day couldn't be beat. The Stonemasters, Sheep Buggerers, Uplanders, the San Diego posse, all of you inspired me.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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These are the folks who helped me stumble up to this point:
1. The Marte' family for teaching me to climb in the mid 70's and to let me know that climbing is a very dangerous thing to do BUT that you should still do it
2. Thom Nephew/Bonnie Nephew-Thom for his amazing animal spirit and Bonnie (RIP) for her precious honesty and for showing that you can bring the family along
3. Bart Cannon aka:Barto for being from my hometown and going large out West, for driving me nuts with his driven personality and for singing as much of Tangled up in Blue as I-90 would allow
4. Chris Heck for being from my hometown and being able to go West and have an awful lot of fun while flailing on the rock and laughing at ourselves
5. Steve Araiza aka: Gumby for doing some good routes that we were'nt sure we should have been on
6. Steve Angelini aka: On the road with Steve for being fearless and for those great times in the City of Rocks
7. Jamie Duffy (RIP) for kicking me in the ass in the Valley and letting me know that maybe just maybe I could play in these reindeer games. Wish you were stil here
8. Tom Anderson for being an old groover who keeps on showing up around the mountains and still keeps bringing it
9. Kevin Fosburg because he could be really smart and still laugh at life
10.Shawn Callahan for training with me and getting me to do some routes that I never ever would have done without his pushing me
11. Jan Ebeltof (RIP)for showing that drugs and climbing can co-exist. Personnification of style for me in the 80's.
12. Dave Pagel for his contagious enthusiasm
13. Mike Williams/Mike Jackson/Tom herwig and the old gang from EMS- St.Paul
fact is the best people I ever met were involved in kayaking or climbing and I feel pretty damn glad I got to meet you
murf
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
one summer dream
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Jan 16, 2008 - 04:59am PT
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bump
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 16, 2008 - 05:58pm PT
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Like Nazarus this needs to be brought back to life
I need more
Who helped you get here?
murf
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 16, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
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Tom Brassell.
He had this new goldline attached to his new harness, he pulled it tight which created this huge bulge in the croachtoral area, and said "Is this studley, or what?"
that defined the sport, that five seconds in my life.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 16, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
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How did so many miss this Thread? Should be hundreds of posts. I mean you all climb don't you? It's a super topic.
Short List of Three:
First: Dan Leichtfuss
Know those family vacation photos of the Grand Canyon. Everyone is on the edge except one kid that's 10 feet in and posing at a 90 degree angle AWAY from the edge? That was me as a kid.
I was so afraid of heights I couldn't even drive in the mountains. Unacceptable to Dan. Thank God he had a will stronger than mine, tricked me into going climbing one day and would not let me off the rope 'til I had topped out. He challenged me enough that I finally lost nearly all my fear of heights. If you knew me back then you would know what a saint he was.
Second: Maria Cranor
First and only woman I trusted enough to climb with. Of course I would have climbed with Mari G., she was the only other gal way back I knew that I had complete confidence in, but she was light years beyond me. So was Maria, but she was part of our social network and she was so able to instill confidence it was incredible. Maria is still one of the most incredible inhabitants of this planet I know. Maria took me on my first two climbs at Josh. Maria God Bless you always for all you have done for our family!
Third: Ed Sampson
We were on a multi pitch climb on a shortish wall. My first wall with no ledges, cracks, generous nubs or anything to make me feel "safe"... meaning someting that sticks out that you can relate to....just wall.
Daryl Nakahira led, then came Dan, then me and finally Ed. Well after the first pitch Ed climbed up to where I was hanging on an old single bolt anchor. I said, "Ed if you lower me off I'll buy you a brand new rope." I guess you could say I was freaked and trying to think of the best bribe possible for a young, poor climber. I had no idea of how much a rope cost, but if I had to get a second job I would.
You see, while Ed was climbing up to me I was staring that old bolt down and asking it some serious quesions. "How old are you? Who placed you? Do you know I have 4 young children at home? Gasp!! Did you just move abit" ? By the time Ed got to me the bolt and I were in major dialogue.
QUESTION: Does this ever happen to you testosterone climbers?
Anyway, Ed just laughed at me. He said, "you'll enjoy it". I did and when I topped out it was one of the most incredible feelings in my life.
Thanks gang of three for the memories.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 16, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
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Interesting short list, Lynne. I have climbed and hung out with both Maria and big Ed; Times, events, and conversations I will never forget. Couldn't ask for better people to coexist with. I Never knew Dan, but based on what you said, sounds like my loss.
cheers
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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May 16, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Laurie Skreslet started it all for me, eh.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 17, 2008 - 01:13am PT
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Jaybro, Good evening! You always have the nicest things to say. Getting ready for a big wedding bash tomorrow in La Jolla. Old family friend getting married. Just had to take a break for my ST fix. Gute Nacht! LRL PS Dan was a righteous Dude. Married when I was 19. He taught me a ton of stuff about living. Life goes on and God is good.
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Sir Donald
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 17, 2008 - 09:25am PT
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I remember spring quarter 1986 at the University of Utah, I had signed up for the basic climbing course through the Outdoor Ed department. Went to the first class and Doug Heinreich and Conrad Anker were the instructors, with Seth Shaw and Drew Bedford as assistants. I didn't know anything about these guys, and all I knew about clinbing was from a trip up the Exum Direct on the Grand that previous summer - my first real climbing. These four - all world class climbers then - but not yet uber famous as they would become within 5 years - they all put their heads together and decided the entire class was going to be made up of a week in the desert, camping climbing and partying! All for 2 college credits! We hit Zion, St. George, and Snow canyon. They taught us anchors, placing pro, catching falls, and proper fireside party techniques. I went on for years to climb with them and see them regularly in the canyons of SLC and in the CofRocks - but I'll never forget the excitement and energy they all gave us showing a group of newbies what climbing was all about. RIP Seth - you were one of a kind, and one of the best.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 17, 2008 - 09:32am PT
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now that's, a faculty.
edit;
And a curriculum!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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May 17, 2008 - 10:53am PT
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It might be only on an early Saturday morning that I can consider those who influenced me, as a climber, not just positively... but in some way more than just that.
1. Scott Decapio, who climbed ice faster than anyone I had ever witnessed. Like it was NO BIG DEAL. And then, when the going got weird, he could switch into slow-twitch mode, lock off, dig deep, and get up funky, technical, stretchy, and R/X. And then he'd give me the plum pitch to lead, something hard and/or scary but within my abilities. Never met a nicer guy.
2. Chad Lewis, my oldest friend, now a dad and tree climber in South Carolina. He showed me how to drink. He showed me how to drink too much. He set a good example of philandering, tail-chasing, and otherwise inappropriate appreciation for women. He also showed me that we can be very weak sometimes, scratch the bottom with our toenails, circle the drain, and it's really just providence that we float back up.
3. Hans Saari, who died in 2001.
4. Jeff Long, whose essay 'Running Stairs' confirmed for me, then in High School, that this ridiculous activity was not just sport, but was attached umbilically to something else in my spirit, be it for good or not.
5. Ace Kvale, who allowed me to convince him that he should belay me up an unknown route. And a lot more.
6. Dana Drummond, who is blessed to have a natural talent that matches his motivation. Wow.
7. All those smart clients who "got it."
8. Jim Hurst, that hula-hooping skinny nutcase from southwest Colorado.
9. Kelly Cordes, who showed me that I was not salty enough for the ocean of real big bad voodoo alpine climbing.
That's it for now. Too many characters to list, but these have shed some influence, both good and bad.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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May 17, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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This is a really cool thread and has made me think alot about who has influenced me in my climbing. The big problem like alot of you is to narrow it down to just 10. Though I like the honorable mention catagory though, I am going to break it down to people that directly influenced me and then indirectly.
1st and foremost Rick Lovelace: He basically got alot of us started climbing from our Tahoe clan. Motivated our first trip to the valley (while still in high school) that open our eyes to the big stuff. He mentored me into the wall climber I am today. He showed how it was possible to hang it all out there on the line and still get back to the car. Thanks Rick!!
Kurt Smith (A.K.A. the Kid): His sprit of adventure and motivation is infectious. The Kids world class talent as a climber was always and still is a pleasure to witness.
Ken Ariza (A.K.A. dirtykenny): Showed me how to live off of pennies a day and how to work the system in the valley. Kenny made me believe in myself and showed me how to push myself to be a better climber.
Dave and Mike Hatchett: Those guys were (and still are) allways ready to go climbing even if it is just bouldering.
Mike Paul (A.K.A. Watusie): What can I say about mike? Pure talent at everything he does. He showed me Jtree like only few people can.
Muggs Stump: I had the pleasure of spending time and climbing with Muggs one winter in Josh. He showed me how to take the sharp end of the rope to a new level. "why top rope it when you can lead it"
Erik Eriksson (A.K.A. E): The most under rated talent in the climbing world. Erik is a climber to the CORE! He climbs at a world class level in every discipline of the sport. A true pleasure to share a rope with this guy either on the stone or ice.
Steve Muse (A.K.A. museman) The guy can not be beat down. His leggs don't work and he is still motivated to get up there. More determination than I am sure I would have in his position.
Steve Gerberding: Just a flat out great guy and a true badass. How could the Mayor of El Cap not leave an impact on anybody that climbs on the big stone.
And now for those that indirectly influenced me.
Everybody in the Yosemite Climber book, The Bird, Ammon, Ivo, Shipply, Fosberg, Werner, Jeff Lowe, Robbins, Chouinard, Harding, Duece, Bachar, Long, Erik Kohl, Levy, Kauk, Waren Hollinger, Jim Erdman
This list could go on for a long while but you get the point.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 17, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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Wow!!!!!
Talk about inspiration. What a list.
Well, for mine, and in no particular order--they've all
been great influences, some no longer with us, unfortunately.
Here goes:
Tom Hornbein
Ned Gillette
Warren Harding
John Stannard
Howard Doyle
Bob Norris
Jim Nigro
Dave Rearick
Yvon Chouinard
Layton Kor
Royal Robbins
John Stannard
Eric Shipton
Mooch--You named Herb Laeger--I didn't get to hang
around Herb that much, just some great times at Seneca
Rocks in the early 70's. What a great guy, though!
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Sir Donald
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 17, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
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I have a great mid 80's years Mugs Stump story from when he was living in SLC. He was bouldering alone at the main gate boulders and he asked if I wanted a spot. I was a complete noobie, with Fire Cats on and a HUGE chalk bag. We climbed all day, and he gave me his phone # and told me anytime - give him a call. He then called me and ended up selling me some slung hexes and slung Chouinard nuts for super cheap. I never got a chance to rope up with him though, but I follwed his incredible adventures all the way into the crevasse that sad sad day. It was a dark day for American mountaineering when Mugs passed, but he left us all with incredible memories and stories to tell.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 18, 2008 - 01:36am PT
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This is a cool thread! Keep the righteous memories going. lrl
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Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
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May 18, 2008 - 01:58am PT
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Mark Smith My old Partner And still good freind. Hey, Mark F--k off your at the top of the list A--hole.
Darrell Hensel. Best climber I ever seen (ever)
Doug Robinson Because he's hard not to like.
Tobin Sorenson Because he was nuts. (peace)
John Long Because he put up campgirls which I took my longest fall on to date.Thanks John!
Tom Frost Because he just sent me sixty bucks.
JB Because he's JB
And The boys from the hood.
Why?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 18, 2008 - 08:07am PT
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Jud Thurston, he got me started Ice climbing and taught me the post climbing bender..
Charlie Gray, taught me how to lead rock and showed me the way of the road trip...
JB for inspireing me to solo.
All those crazy dudes in the Black Hills who put up all those climbs in the Needles and inspired me to drill on the lead.
Alex Spencer for dragging me up all those towers and showing me the way of the Desert..
Alden Pellet for dragging me up Le Promanade and letting me in on the secret of the big 5+ routs at the lake.. You own this thing dude!!
Isa Oehry for constantly getting the rope up the hard stuff and all those special times on the rocks, in the Vanni and the grand caynon etc....., berg heil.
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Sir Donald
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 18, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
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One more name drop for back in the day. I had taken an easy - filler class to get 4 credit hours at the University of Utah back in the early 90's, and first day - sitting next to me was Dale Goddard - AKA - Skeletor. The class was Acting 101 - a lib ed filler, and I was thinkin I was gonna be bored outa my mind - spring days - hot SLC temps - perfect climbin' weather. Right away - Dale asks if I was a climber - as my hands were completely covered in gobbies from a weekend spent jamming poorly in Zion - and we hit it off. Turns out he was not even registered at the UofU - he was just sitting in I think to get some kinda acting experience for god knows what reason - I think it was for a climbing movie. We swapped stories each class - paying no attention, till one day he stopped coming - moved on to better things -or - learned to act I guess!
At the time - I remember I was thin and fit - but Dale was truly - freaky - scary thin - wheat germ, Diet Coke and power bars - is all I think. Where bouts is Skeletor these days?
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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May 18, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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Mark Twight
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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May 18, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
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Seeing all these famous climbers reminds me how I was never really lucky to hook up with a top climber when I was young. We were from Modesto and a guy named Stu Polack and I started climbing basically on our own. He was an eagle scout and knew some rope work and maybe had a few months on me. Anyway we basically climbed together for many years and learned via the school of hard knocks I guess. We climbed many hard routes together over the years, and some in the early days we were lucky to not get killed on. Coming from Modesto I guess Robbins was an influence, Stu worked at his shop. I would put Bruce Carson into this boat as well. I climbed with a New Zealander named Bill Denz and learned from him that his reckless abandament would probably get me killed some day, so I guess he was important as well. Kelly Rich aka Kman was a student of mine in the seventies and we had a lot of fun. Later I climbed a fair amount with a guy named Don Synder and we were about the same level and did some good routes. Finally I met a guy named John Black who had read every book on climbing but had never really climbed. We climbed every weekend for several years. It was a symbiotic relationship. I would take him up routes like EB of Middle or something and he would belay me on anything I wanted. We would go do things like Kaukulator or the Enduro pitch or laps on BBalls. He was a good friend and we did who knows how many pitches together.
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jonstark
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Nov 16, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Warren Hollinger... Asshat convinced me that I could climb walls.
Rob Brown... Asshat decided he wanted to climb walls too and be my partner at it.
Donie O'Sullivan... Irish E7 climber who pushed me hard towards Popeye forearms and clean ethics.
Bob Kamps... Modest, friendly, encouraging, kicked my butt like I was a weenie but enjoyed getting stumped himself.
Kris Solem... Class act.
Colm O'Coffaigh... Fearless
Mark Wagner... Tales of yesteryear at Suicide.
The numerous authors in my library who inspired, awed and amazed.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise
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Nov 16, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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Merry Braun(she's so fun.....)
Mike Price (Circlehead)
Denise Brown(another fun gal)
Brad Jarrett
Pat Sullivan
Andres Zegers(remember Chilidog?)
Cade Lloyd
Coiler
Tim Noonan
Bryan Law
That's my list. I'm stickin' with it.
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
X
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Nov 16, 2008 - 06:18pm PT
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werner,kauk,shipley,tucker,eric khol,coiler,deputy stowe,chicken skinner,hornibrook,fosburg,bill russell,ken arizza,dick cilly, brad jarret,the filthy savage,skully,trent smith,speuty,scotty burke,shultzy,croft cashner,buffy,gerberdine,potter,merry,and many more
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Nov 16, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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Only met a few of them...
John Gill
Wolfgang Gullich
John Bachar
Pat Ament
Peter Croft
Earl Wiggins
Steve Wunsch
John Holloway
Jeff Smoot
John Yablonski
Michael Layton
Edit: Hot Henry and Alan Watts to that list
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 16, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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Seems to me I answered this question once before, wonder if its the same ten;
Warren Harding
Walter Bonatti
Layton Kor
Ricardo Cassin
Royal Robbins
Tom Patey
Charlie Porter
Jeff Lowe
Charlie Fowler
Jim Erikson
honorable mention; Lionel Terray, Doug Scott, Jimmie Dunn
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Nov 16, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
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Mike and Tom Carr.....There is NO one as tough as these guys.
Joe Crotty for making me see what is possible within one self.
Every beginner out there cause everyone was there at one time themselves.
Mark Miller a master on ice.
Mike Shelton a person you'll never hear of but one of the best on rock or ice.
John Hayward for just being himself.
Any hot woman on the rock or ice.
Bob Chase most likely the nicest man on the planet, and knows RMNP like a kid knows his sand box.
Jeff Lowe for showing us all what is possible.
Julie Ramsay for seeing what is possible and getting after it.
Brian Dold the nicest guy on ice or in the car for 7 hours.
Michelle Moore survives the lighting strike and STIll is a hard woman and the nicest climbing partner you'll ever have
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 16, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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David Stam
Eric Barret
Jon Bowlin
Mark Hudon
Jonathan Dyer
Victor Marcus
Kevin Mather
Jeanette Renneberg
That will do.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 12:30am PT
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Mike Endicott and The Rocks St. Park Gang from the early 1970s
John Stannard and the Carder Rock crew of early 1970s
Jack Hunt
Ned Gillette
Hammering Hank Barber
Geoff Smith and the Poko gang
Kevin Bein
Tobin Sorenson
Dan Hare
Some guy from Ventura that sold curved ice axes
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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Dean Scovell. Injured in a climbing incident, he was unable to climb anymore, but when he found out we were climbing at a local rock quarry with clothesline, he got me into the Seattle Mountaineers basic climbing course in 1974 when I was 15. and then loaned me his guidebooks for the next 20 years
AJ Culver. He would let me ride with him to go on the Mountaineers climbs as I was to young to drive. He later became mayor of Issaquah and President of the Mountaineers. A good guy and a awesome mentor.
Phil Eckes. My first partner, he was from Bellevue and I met him in the Moutaineers course. He was hardcore, and he and I did many ascents togather as young punks, north ridge of Stuart, north face Chimney Rock, Dragontail, Prusik, on and on. We rarely ran into anyone in the mountains back then.
Chris Bonington. Met him at a slideshow he gave and he spoke with me at length and signed my book. What a legend.
Joe Brown, Don Whillans, Dougal Haston. EVen though I never met these guys, their outrageous climbs so impressed me it inspired me to go for it.
Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard, Werner Braun, the Stonemasters all of them. These were the guys out there pushing the limits in The day. We could only dream of attempting lines like they were doing.
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler. need I say more?
Bob Kroese. He got me back into climbing by making me go with him and dragging me up hard sh#t like Blownout at Beacon and the like. Thank you Bob.
Mark Kroese. Still kicking ass and still inspiring me with his fitness level and the fact he can climb harder and faster then I can. We just did Unimpeachable Groping at Red Rocks Monday, what a awesome climb.
Hans Florine. The guy has a climbing style that sets him apart, unbelievably graceful and powerful. and what a nice guy and class act. I WILL climb NIAD one day, but never in 3 hours.
Paul Cousar and Kay Kucera They put up more new routes then anyone I know. They climb all the time, and most of their routes are secrets. Man, once the word gets out about Supercrag... son of a....
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 01:13am PT
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This will be off the wall but here goes :
Fred East
Peter Minks
Al Harris
Bridwell
Yabo
Largo
Bachar
Kauk
Werner
Demitri
Donny Reid
And my good friend Fritz Fox
Theres alot more but lets just leave it at that - oops thats 12 - yep
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 01:16am PT
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Oh wait, I forgot Sutton & Burton !
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Nov 17, 2008 - 01:45am PT
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I don't have ten... I have my friends. :)AF
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Nov 17, 2008 - 01:52am PT
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I find it interesting that both Beth Rodden and Dean Potter have been mentioned but not Chris Sharma.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
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Nov 17, 2008 - 02:59am PT
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No particular order, and I'm probably forgetting someone in my perpetually sleep deprived state:
Norman Clyde
Peter Croft
Warren Harding
Dave Bengston
Alex Lowe
John Long (especially because he is a writer who happens to be a climber!)
Derek Starr (aka Roy Naas)
Mark Twight
Fred Beckey
DMT
10b4me
Jeff Lowe
Jim Bridwell
Lynne Hill
Dr. Jonathan Hemlock
Ben Bowman
Jessie Deighan
More than ten... screw the decimal system! :-)
The theme: it's all about the spirit and feel of climbing. It's about a fun and a sense of humor.
Fletch
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 05:01am PT
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Early on it was Fred Nicole. He exuded that strength and power I wanted to have. His seemingly effortless movement across Martini Roof in the video I saw was inspiring.
Next, was the crew at PG in Santa Clara: Steve M, Steve A., Steve P., Steve D, Jeremy M. Joel R, Dave G, Tom C, have all made huge impacts on my climbing life. Al of these folks have girl friends and wives who have taken me to the curb adn taught me a few things as well.
Lately Tom C. I most inspiring. Battling back from nearly a year off and the chub. Has been the most prominent CP for the last decade and I'm pretty happy to have the memories I have of some of our adventures.
Russ W, at one point I heard this guy was pretty funny. Later he gave me my name. Him and his girlfriend both inspire.
Yuji H. and Hans F. watching them do the Nose both record days was a real treat and I will have the photos if the memory starts to go.
wait, you asked for ten, but there are many more than that in my world that I have to thank. I'll keep this modest grouping as my ten pack.
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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:57am PT
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Dean Potter- All time hero...so many boundaries pushed
Ammon McNeely - Nice guy and badass
Chris Sharma - Inspires me to climb hard
My friends Kevin, Robi, Dave, Justin, Taylor, Dan, Vincent - For climbing with me
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nov 17, 2008 - 12:29pm PT
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My personal mentors were Bruce Adams (Brunosfari) and Rick Piggott.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Nov 17, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
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Peter Croft x 10. He is indeed from another planet...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
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Chuck Pratt -- my all-time climbing hero.
Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost -- the Chouinard Equipment catalogue (really a brochure then) taught me much about using pitons -- and later about chocks and life.
Steve Roper -- his guidebooks to Yosemite, particularly the first (Red) one greatly influenced my ethics and style.
Rich Calderwood -- He was a sort of godfather to Fresno climbers in the 1960's.
Mike Caldwell -- The first competent climber I knew with the patience to deal with me.
Ben Borson -- for showing that bouldering was all right all by itself.
Tom Higgins -- for his daring and intelligence in face climbing, and for condescending to boulder with me.
John Stannard -- for his writing on clean climbing, and for walking his talk.
Royal Robbins -- who defined climbing perfection in my formative years. named last on this list, but certainly not least.
John
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First Love
Boulder climber
La Canada, CA
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Mar 22, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
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Richard Leversee
RL's passion for climbing is unforgetable. Doing what you love - what a great path to follow. Way to go, Dick.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 22, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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1. Natasha
no particular order;
Harding
Robbins
Pratt
Chouinard
Ament
Messner
Doug Scott
Ken Yager
Skip Guerin
Mark Wilford
Dave Schultz
Pete Takeda
Bryan Law
Ron Kauk
Kurt Smith
Peter Croft
John Bachar
Walt Shipley
Mike Corbett
Steve Bosque
Jim Bridwell
Russ Walling
John Middendorf
Eric Kohl
Mike Ousley
Ammon McNeely
oh.. only ten?
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Mar 22, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
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1. Rob Shibao. My former chemistry professor for taking me out for the first time climbing...On an overhanging 5.11c crack ("Just do a hand jam"..A what?). I was hooked ever since. He taught me the ethics of climbing cleanly.
2. Dave Griffith. "YSD/ D-Griff" for doing laps on the same 5.11c that same first day...I was impressed.
3. Tom Herbert. For the K2 movie stunt work that got me so interested in climbing. And for later on teaching me better technique to improve my climbing.
4. Dave Burridge: My climbing partner for the past 19yrs.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Mar 22, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
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Here's my top 25;
Warren Harding
John Bachar
Ron Kauk
Jim Bridwell
Mike O Donnell
Roger Breedlove
Peter Croft
Steve Gerberding
Scott Stowe
Dave Bengston
Steve Schneider
Perry Beckham
Chris Mc Namara
Hans Florine
Brian Mc Cray
Ammon Mc Neely
Erik Erickson
Conrad Anker
Larry Zulim
Bill Price
Michael Haag
Kevin Stricker
David Russell
Brad Zdanivsky
Ben Folsom
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 23, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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1. Lynn Hill, who showed me in 1979 a girl could be better than the guys
2. Phil Bard, photographer and all-around Valley climber
3. Sue Foley, my first climbing partner who worked at the Ahwahnee
4. Alan Nelson, RIP, nerves of steel
5. The Werner Brothers, Peter and Michael, RIP, who let me tag along
6. Allen Steck, a class act still climbing
7. George Bracksieck, who gave me the opportunity to turn climbing into a job
8. Bill Critchlow, the safest person I ever climbed with
9. Cindy Trotter, an Indian Creek expert
10. Coral Bowman, who I am still in awe of
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Bump it
Contribute!
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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(Hero's)
Royal Robbins
Jim Bridwell
Steve Schneider
John Barbella
John Bachar
John Long
Ron Kauk
Lynn Hill
Peter Croft
Erik Eriksson, my #1
(Who I climbed with)
Kirk "Tage" Montgomery
Dan "Woody" Woodward
Stan Sharp
John Barbella
Steve Schneider
Ed White
Ken Kliss
Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mike Ayon
Erik Eriksson/"E"
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sully
Trad climber
CA
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Lynn Hill
Jo Witford
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superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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CJ Pearson
Royal Robbins
Peter Croft
Steve House
Mark Twight
John Long
Greg Child
Greg Crouch
Jim Donini
Cullen Kirk
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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gotta love CJ Pearson. Smart, solid climber, good bro. Always good to see when a good friends name pops up more than once on a list like this.
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Royal Robbins: For teaching me what I needed to get started
Jeff Sewell(ymon) For getting me on the sharp end and my first unroped solos
Randy Vogel: For selling me my first rope and the Joshua Tree Bible
John Long: For his stories, motivation and the memorable day I was belaying next to him while I laughed my ass off as he guided some anorexic Hollywood models up a slab and then later that day when we carried a litter together with a guy that cratered on Guillotine.
Bachar: For selling me my first Aces and everything he did
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Liza Anderson
Dave Hitchcock
Dave& Phil Bircheff
The Bards
Chuck Cochrane
Vern Cleverger
Donny Reid
Jeff Mathis
Billy Nickel
Walter Rosenthal
Thank you 10 and all my friends
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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EC Joe.... for sure........
Ron Carson.....
John Barbella.....
John Bachar.....
Greg Epperson....
Todd Gordon.....
Royal Robbins....
Fred Beckey......
Jim Bridwell.....
Peter Croft....
Herb Leager....
Heidi Wirtz.....
Joe Trapeeneese....
Larry Zulium......The best valley crack climber I know, and he's 60..
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Royal Robbins
Trad climber
Modesto, California
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Top Ten who influenced me? Let's see...
John Muir, Clarence King, James Ramsey Ullman(the last two not because of their routes bur rather because of their writing), John Salathe, Walter Bonatti, Don Whillans, Joe Brown, Henry Barber, Peter Croft, and John Bachar. I choose most of these individuals because they did things I wish I had done or could do.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hi Royal,
Do you remember your quip about Don Whillans?
Paraphrased: "There is no one else, other than Whillans, I would rather be with in a tight spot in the mountains....Unless only one of us were to come out alive."
Maybe you wrote it somewhere; I only remember you saying it around a camp fire.
Also, did Joe Brown come to the Valley in the early 70s? I recall that he did, quietly, but no one remembers.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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The Syndicata- all ya'll. Actually, all AZ pioneers/hardmen
Steve Elie- 80's mentor
Evetree- beanfest mushies
Kerry Estey- smooth female energy/footwork
Jim Erdman- the best partner ever
All The Derels(DRLZ)- Colin, Matty, Farmer, Black, Charley
Croft
Kamps
Ben Moon
Bachar
edit- gotta add Charlie Fowler. He validated my "quesadilla- every-morning-for-frugality-reasons". Inspiration!
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Knave
climber
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Climbers that I've climbed with that made lasting influences:
Chris Gonzalez (introduced me)
Terrence Phillipe (influenced me early on)
Chris Clifford (inspired me to train, but not too much)
George Conner (keeps me grounded in ground up ethos)
Dave Croy ( a confidante and friend in the Hills)
Sean Malee ( a polymath that keeps the fire)
Sean Kinny ( Heal your elbows and get back out here)
Erik Hurst ( always fun and happy go lucky )
Scott Frye and Steve Moyles (through REI Berkeley days)
Climbers that I've respected from afar:
Messner, Robbins, Chouinard, Pratt, Several Lowes, Bridwell, Kamps, Barber, Long, Stump, Bacher, Croft, House and recently Honald. Certainly more but
these guys come to mind when I look at the pinnacle in my estimation. They havn't so much directly influenced me as make me appreciate the states of the art from the perspective of a recreationalist with only a few notable ascents. Oh and Illgner's Book helped me wrestle with a few demons, though I still tend to sew the pro at times in a fear based manner.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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All folks who I know personally and who are/were influential partners, mentors, or heros, in no particular order:
Mike Libecki
Peter Croft
Chris McNamara
Eric Berghorn
Hans Florine
Tom Addison
Galen Rowell
Jim Lundeen
Alex Lowe
Kevin Jorgeson
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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"weschrist
and of course
weschrist "
I love it! he makes sure, in case you'd missed it, that he is, indeed an aszhole! Even if he Can, climb.
Good fer him!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Shivasana
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I should add Tony Yeary. He's one of those teachers who were teaching me even before I knew him! Must be a past life thing!
Eric
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Perhaps the most influential for me is a climber who's name I do not know. It was my first day at the Gunks, and we were walking to do my first climb. Along the way I stopped and watched a good climber lead Retribution. He floated up the rock with a power, grace and joy in movement I had only seen before at the ballet. My life was changed forever in that moment. It was 1972.
A few other climbers who had a direct impact on me, in no particular order...
John Guibord
Rick Morse
Mike Loughman
Erik Ericksson
Bob Kamps
Herb Laeger
Also broke some personal barriers climbing with Jan McCollum, Guyzo, and Rob Brown...
And of course, The Scrutinizer.
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Ron Raimonde
Big Wall climber
Sedona,Az
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HMMMMMMMM. In no particular order
John Middendorf
Charlie Fowler
Jim Bridwell
Joe Tasker
Royal Robbins
Muggs Stump
Michaele Piola
Gary Hemmings
Jimmy Dunn
Clint Eastwood
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alasdair
Trad climber
scotland
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partners - Duncan Tunstall, big serious commiting situations we're enjoying ourselves aren't we?!
Gareth Hughes, mr determination
Stuart Buchanan, early days to n face of the badile
nick tarmey, "Be in the right place, right time, right partner, the technical side will take care of itself"
Matt Buckle, granite technician and how many miles driven??
Laurin Weissmeir, godlike german free climbing "you need to learn to rest on vertical ice"
inspiration - Guy edwards and John Millar, never forget the compliment "oh your going home thats a shame we need some good climbers for the summer alpine"
mick Fowler, a lift up the M6, generous with his photos. Still sets the bar
Joe Simpson, devoured his literature
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jstan
climber
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I think I don't have much to contribute here as I never did much climbing. Nonetheless....
Willie Crowther taught me how to move around.
On a 5.8 with a roof there was a sling hanging down. He says, "Climb up the sling." I climb up the sling and he says, "I shouldn't jump about too much were I you." Then the hand placed pin fell out. That was the totallity of my instruction on aid.
In climbing you deal with it as you find it. But always be comfortable.
RGold: The universe contains untold galaxies swirling in unfathomable precision according to dimly understood laws. The goal? Be at peace with who and what you are.
Joe Brown: I would never presume upon the man to take his time to meet him.
From "The Black Cliff" you read of a "worthy" coming in and blirting out, " I hear Brown and Whillans are here. What did they work on today?" From the back of the pub comes, "Ahm Brown. Ees Whillans."
Now Brown had to say something before Whillans could 'it 'im. Because once that happened they all would be turned out of the pub into the cold rain. Joe had to have had much more cold rain than he wished.
So back to Willie it comes:
you deal with it as you find it. But always be comfortable.
And when you have done that who do you find there waiting for you?
Tom Frost.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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John Gonzales
Don Porter
Randy Kirkpatrick
Gerry Cox
Hans Lehman
Greg Vernon
RJ Secor
Ron Hudson
Ellen Holden
Clark Jacobs
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Sep 16, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
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(Hero's)
Royal Robbins
Jim Bridwell
Steve Schneider
John Barbella
John Bachar
J."Cracker"L.
Ron Kauk
Lynn Hill
Peter Croft
Erik Eriksson, my #1
(Who I climbed with)
Kirk "Tage" Montgomery
Dan "Woody" Woodward
Stan Sharp
John Barbella
Steve Schneider
Ed White
Ken Kliss
Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mike Ayon
Erik Eriksson/"E"
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Sep 16, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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*Bruce Hibbard: My GREAT friend and mentor.
*Melanie Hibbard - For making me laugh at myself, and watching vertical locomotion in action. RIP, you are missed greatly!
*Bean Bowers - "Get you fat a$$ off my rope and climb.... how many times you gonna chalk up?" And really showing my how to have a blast in the mountains... won't mention he BLEW UP MY STOVE IN C4!
*Steph - For showing me how tough and competitive a female climber can be.
*Jeff.. from Bishop: met him in C4 and did my first leads with a stranger.
* Ronnie: Last I heard, he was in Boulder, not sure exactly why I connected so close in such a short time, Always pushing the limits.
* Angie: For having the courage to let me lead all the pitches and trusting me.
* My GREAT buddy Christian (AKA El Poser): We could climb for hours and never have to speak a word. And were not done yet!
* Matt: Always willing to go in search of another unknown crag.
* Arno: "Breathe Doug, the air is FREE"!!
To all my Friends from the Classic Rock Gym back in the day! We always had a good time. Yuki, Jim (AKA Rock Star), Julia, Darrell, Mike, Lance, Jim D. I know I've left off a few.
Good times, Good friends, GREAT adventures ALL!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
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I'll stick by my first 10 but here are 10 more.
Norman Clyde- the Sierra's biggest icon for all time
Royal Robbins- for the "Craft" Books, taught me how to roped solo
Peter Croft-no need to explain
Largo- dang John, you're on the first list too
Hensel- with the "Master" we were to climb all the routes at
Tahquitz and Suicide
Robbs Muir and Mike Graham- the first S.masters to treat me like a real climber even though I WAS NOT WORTHY
Walter Bonatti- we chanted his name on the way up to my first high altitude ultra-cold bivvy before climbing Mt. Humphreys after leaving Tuolumne in the pm (any more info would be incriminating)
RJ Secor- for the guides, thanks many, many times over
Doug Robinson, Jim Donini, Fred Beckey, etc. for showing that old don't mean done
Tom Frost- the nicest one of all
The climber formerly known as "AJ"- for resparking the FA fever in the search for all the last great clean varnished splitters in the Wonderland
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
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Royal Robbins 4 the rockcraft books, the best.
Pat Ament for Master of Rock; validated
San diego climbing.
My two early partners;
Surfer Dave Berner
And Rob Wild
Kevin Powell; mentored my bolt replacement work.
Klaus; fun to drink with and an insane climber.
Walt, see above.
Tucker; just an old fat ass now...usedta climb well :)
Rick Piggot; fairly bad ass...
And,
Laura Obrien who took me up my first roped climb.
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SicMic
Social climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 17, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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Warren Harding
Joe Hajny
Royal Robbins
Bill Pelander
Layton Kor
Yvon Chouinard
Jim Erickson
John Bachar
Michael Kennedy
Gary Neptune
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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Hero Bump!
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Oct 31, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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Really none of the climbing "Gods", but rather the humble folk who were my partners, friends and mentors:
Richard
Jessica
Larry
Tracy
Jack
Dan
Mark
and last but not at all the least, my best friend and buddy, Woody Stark- well, he was a legend actually, old skool one:)
locker you too, you are a blast to climb with...you can make me laugh more than just about anyone else!
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Dodo
Trad climber
Spain/UK
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Oct 31, 2009 - 05:00am PT
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Joe Brown
Paul Nunn
Joe Brown
Pete Crewe
Joe Brown
Jack Street
Joe Brown
Tom Proctor
Joe Brown
John Gill
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 31, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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Jack Schnurr and Bob Dominic for showing me the ropes.
Phil Haney and Ben Borson, for showing us what could be done (like V8, back in 1970!)
Rick Accomazzo and Richard Harrison for partnering up.
Paul Gleason, for stying with us while we started getting good.
Phil Gleason for dragging me up my first Valley climbs. Thanks, Phil.
Joe Herbst for being Joe and showing us high adventure in Red Rocks before we knew what was happeing.
Bridwell for showing us the high end of things and turning us onto so many great routes.
Sacherer, Pratt, Robbins, Kamps, Couch and Higgins whose routes we broke in on as we climbed the ladder.
Kamps for showing us bouldering discipline.
Bachar for leading the charge to bag all the Gill stuff.
Gill for showing us around and doing all those problems we chased.
Buhl for being an inspiration even though we weren't mountain climbers.
All my Camp 4 friends and partners for our many great times.
Lynn Hill for catching me on so many whippers and leading so many great routes when we climbed together.
Everyone who ever said, "Hi, Largo."
JL
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bolivian
Social climber
Sheffield
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Dec 27, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Hi Everyone,
Is the John Gill referred to in these posts Jack Gill from the Rock and Ice Club? If so, does anyone know his current whereabouts or contact info? I'd like to get in touch with him.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Dec 27, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
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1 Mr. Robbins....The two books.
2 Yvon Chounard...the gear , catalouges,(DR's inspirational articles),and his climbing ice book.
3 Jeff Lowe his great ice book
4 Dougal Haston and Doug Scott... Everest the hard way
5 Mark Hudon and Max Jones...climbing at the limits and way above pro
6 Pat ? used to teach climbing at unr and now occasionally can be seen at REI reno, Good person, Bonus points.
7 TM ... for all the sh#t he gave us no matter where we were climbing...The leap , The Meadows.......
8 Dano.... Well above my climbing limit but he was always supportive and a very decent guy.
9 Ron Anderson... For showing us that alot of the rad stuff we were doing in this area had already been done.
10 Mikey I, a frequent and beloved partner for 4 decades, No Matter how out of climbing shape I get He still beleives I can do it, maybe he's crazy.....But I thank him and love him like a red headed step brother.
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Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Social climber
CO
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Dec 27, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
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The guys I climbed and/or skied with (in no particular order):
Benny Bach
Eric Doub
Forrest Fukushima
Dave Hayes
Steve Dean
Luke Laeser
Jon Butler
Jesse Harvey
John Middendorf
Carlo Torres
Warren Hollinger
Mike Schillaci
Tom Hornbein
Bob Craig
Peter Gram
Matt Samet
two old guys at CU in the mid-80s
Norbert Ensslin
Don Liska
Fred Beckey
Layton Kor
Bryan Gall
Brian Long
Paul Ross
John Catto
Andy Ross
those Aussie blokes
Charlie French
Julian Fisher
Geoff Der
Mark Van Dome
Joe Coll
James Garrett
Chris Eng
Jordan Campbell
Rick Leonidas
Ann Robertson
Zoe Burns
Mollie Burns
Kerry Burns
Jordi Tosas
Mike Walker
Paul Fehlau
Armano Solano
Ethan Putterman
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Bob Kamps, met him while climbing the Regular Route on Fairview, He was leading Powell Route(?) and belaying off a single rusty old bolt. He said " It's alot harder now because we could place pitons wherever we wanted, now (mid nineties) its full of moss so I had to run the pitch out" He was probably in his seventies and climbing harder than I ever will.
Lynn Hill, meeting her at Clarks was a true honor.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK
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My Dad, Many by books read (esp. Dads Rebufet and Robbins book), Several Met, Some more, a couple great mentors and two HS climbing buddies. We as climbers seem to be a lucky lot in that our hero's when met, at least in my experience are very pleasant positive people.. just like the vast majority of regular climbers
Dad
Gaston Rébuffat
Royal Robbins
Naomi Uemura
John Roskelly
Patrick Vallencant
Jean Marc Boivan
Scot Schmidt
Todd Deis
Matt Howard
Ray Genet
Mugs Stump
Steve Garvey
Gary Bocarde
Scott Woolums
Mesner
Lynn Hill
Bachar
Dan Osman
John Long
Alex Lowe
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Fig's Lady
Sport climber
Bishop, CA
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Fig Fiola
Mark Axen
Steve Grossman
John Bachar
Peter Croft
Mimi
Lynn Hill
Royal Robbins
John Steiger
Ruth Dyer-Mendenhall
Dean Potter
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luggi
Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
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Apr 28, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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I must mention a low key climber who is very humble and just an all around good guy...Mark Tuttle
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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Apr 28, 2012 - 06:03am PT
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These are the people that took me climbing; I only post their names out of appreciation. Please don't confuse my ability or experience with theirs. I was simply at the right place at the right time.
Steve Sereda
Bob Finn
Don Reid
Ed Barry
Al Bartlett
Don Harder
Bill Critchlow
TM Herbert
Marco _
Rick Cashner
John Bachar
Chris Falkenstein
Bruce Brossman
Bob Ashworth
K.B.
and this guy who I can't remember his name Mike___
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Apr 28, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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WOW ! just came across this post-
Todd Skinner--"how do you know you can't do it ?"
Karl mallmen--- if it's under vertical, you can climb it"
Bob Scarpelli- " It's not wide. it's fists"
and of course the great Tom Callaghan--"new routes or NO routes"
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Mar 16, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
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Gaston Rebuffat - reading his stuff helped kindle the fire.
Ricardo Cassin - ditto.
Jerry Gallwas - He started me when he was about 18 and I was about 20 in San Diego, in the Navy.
Gary Hemming - part of the same SD crowd. Always a bit crazy. We used to see who could lead climbs
at Tahquitz with the least protection until I started to realize my mortality. I don't think he ever did.
Royal - showed us what could be done at Tahquitz.
Al Steck - a distant hero in those days.
Joe Fitschen - loved his attitude. Still do.
TM Herbert - you gotta love the guy.
Chuck Pratt - him too.
Harding. Of course.
Mark Powell - a force to be reckoned with.
Lots more.
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covelocos
Trad climber
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Mar 16, 2017 - 10:30pm PT
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Lisi Roig - She took me climbing for the first time.
Michael Kennedy - Lisi bought a copy of Climbing that day. I probably still have it.
Steve Roper - I bought a copy of Camp 4 soon after to learn about climbing history.
John Long - I bought a copy of 'How to rock climb' to figure out just what the hell I was doing!
Mark Gruey - My brother and primary climbing partner for the first 5 years or more. The perfect partner. He was too scared to lead!
Royal Robbins - He lead the way for countless climbers. I was given a copy of 'Advanced Rockcraft' after I had been climbing for quite some time. It seemed cute. John Long had, by then, set my techniques in place.
Warren Harding - For showing me I can do what ever the hell I want!
Peter Croft - Seeing him solo 'Sea of holds' when I had just started climbing blew my mind! I would much later learn the art and value of soloing.
Lynn Hill - For being Lynn Hill
Michael Lechlinski - For countless tours of climbs, climbing areas and living history!
Have I mentioned lately how much I love climbing?!?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 17, 2017 - 09:30am PT
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thx Ed!
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