TR - Tangerine Trip, El Cap - 12/07

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Gene Pool

Trad climber
A trailer park in Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 25, 2007 - 01:41am PT
Below is a slightly expanded el cap trip report that Floride suggested I post in a new thread so it might reach a wider audience. Hope you enjoy the photos. It was a blast.


Thanks Nanook for checking to make sure we were ok up there. You got it mostly right. The gear on Zodiak is Gene's. Zak is solo on the shortest straw - just to the west. On Friday when everthing began to thaw some ice started getting a little too close for comfort so Wigball rapped to the ground for a few hours until things settled down.

In case you want visions of pitons and ice fall to replace sugar plums, here are a few photos from my brother and my first wall together.

The preparations begin - I was really wishing I had a band saw

Free climbing on pitch 2


Cathedral Rocks!- pre storm


The conditions worsen


How overhung is this part of El Cap?


Another view of the weather shadow we were living in.


My brother leading pitch 4 a couple moves before taking a 40' fall when a head pulled inches from a bolt. Luckily he was smart? enough to not clip any of the heads below so he didn't have to replace any of them. I can't say I would be so brave, but it is a bold example to follow.


My brother belaying me on the killer pitch 5


Cathedral rocks a couple days later


This one is for a friend who isn't sure if she wants to try climbing after she saw an advert in a climbing mag of bloodied hands.


Pitch 5 from the belay with Wigball in the distance preparing to 'journey through the brain' on the shortest straw


Friday and the Sun is out!


My bro with my custom made french press model xmas stove from wigball - thanks santa.


I must not be much of a climber because my favorite day was this day where we sat out the worst of the storm reading and drinking coffee and whisky.


During the storm, I peeked out and saw wigball who was much more exposed to snow and ice than we


The camera didn't capture much of the snow, but it was amazing to see a curtain of snow falling 100' out from us


The storm breaks...and the ice starts falling from the rim


My brother grumpy on a wet pitch 8 with tons of rope drag. Mike "slack!" Me "do you want more than 10'?"


And the top!


Our hasty full moon bivy stamped out at 10pm - it felt like 3am when we ate lentil soup and candy while falling asleep.


Half Dome was a beautiful sight before the reality of the descent hit home


The way down was definitely the hardest, most dangerous part of this trip. 8 hours of dragging two bags each down the icy east ledges only to find the road to el cap meadow closed. But at least we made it home for xmas! Barely. Good luck to wigball who will be on the wall for a while longer. Thanks to Wigball, Peter and Rich for lending us gear.
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Dec 25, 2007 - 01:42am PT
Nice job hardmen!!! Killer pics.

You said in the other thread this was your first time up the Captain?? A winter ascent nonetheless. Very proud!
marky

climber
Dec 25, 2007 - 01:58am PT
enjoyed reading that, thanks
sweatyballs

Trad climber
Dec 25, 2007 - 02:08am PT
Awesome work fellas with killer pics to boot! Congrats, mike
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 25, 2007 - 02:28am PT
Very nice fellas. My first el cap route was also the Trip in winter. I think my trip was in 82. Once again, well done. I suffered on that descent. Worst I'de ever done. cheers.
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Dec 25, 2007 - 04:55am PT

CONGRATS!! You guys are contending with BURT BRONSON, seriously!

Niiice pics.
Mr. D

Trad climber
West Coast
Dec 25, 2007 - 07:54am PT
SUH-ICK! nice work guys. what a trip!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 25, 2007 - 09:50am PT
Man, the top looks scary with all that snow! How were the final few pitches? And what about that last bit up to the rim, above the ledge with the big tree-bush?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Dec 25, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
big white bump for the abominable snowmen
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 25, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
Totally enjoyable TR. Thanks for sharing!
billygoat

climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
Dec 25, 2007 - 12:39pm PT
Nice work JP and Mike! Looks cozy up there.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 25, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
Thank you - looks like an excellent adventure. Did you have a fire on top, to celebrate, or was it too late for such? It would seem a poetic thing to do - top out, warm yourselves by the fire under the light of the moon. But I guess you were pretty tired. :-)
Gene Pool

Trad climber
A trailer park in Santa Cruz
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
No fire on top. We were too tired. We heated up soup from our sleeping bags. I don't know if other people have had the same problem, but there is a rock horn that is perfectly situated to catch the haul line on the last pitch. So I had to rappell down and figure out what was going on and after all that, I just wanted to crash.

The last couple pitches were wet, but doing them at night meant that there wasn't much ice. In the morning, they probably would have been hard. Ivo was nice and offered to drop ropes to us if we got stuck by ice, but luckily we didn't need to take him up on the offer.
pimp daddy wayne

climber
The Bat Caves
Dec 25, 2007 - 03:31pm PT
Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10b4me

climber
1/2way between Yos and Moab
Dec 25, 2007 - 03:54pm PT
thanks
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Dec 25, 2007 - 04:16pm PT
sick!
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Dec 25, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
Cool stuff. That looked bold up there in the winter. Thanks for the TR!

Merry Xmas!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 25, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
so good





*cross posting to bigwalls.net
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 25, 2007 - 06:27pm PT
Very cool. Nice to have done it in winter conditions. Big props to both of you!

Levy
OhYeah!!!

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 25, 2007 - 11:55pm PT
Just to clear things up. It was not our first wall, it was our first wall together as bros. I had an awesome time with my bro and I appreciate all the support we got. This includes the phone calls that said "I hope you guys bailed, cause there is a huge storm in Yosemite right now," the warnings before we left "you guys are nuts," and even the occasional shout from the valley floor while we were on the wall that said "You guys are gonna die." Thanks so much, Mike.
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Dec 26, 2007 - 12:12am PT
Ivo was up top offering to drop ropes?? Classic. What was Ivo doing up there? Finishing up a climb himself?

Winter wall monkeys....burly!!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 26, 2007 - 12:02pm PT
I was thinking the same thing! What the hell was Ivo doing up there??
Mike.

climber
Dec 26, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
Great job, guys. That's some high-value El Cap climbing. Thanks for the fun reportage...rock on!
Duke-

Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
Dec 26, 2007 - 11:02pm PT
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!TR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


-Dirka
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 27, 2007 - 01:02am PT
Stout...
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Dec 27, 2007 - 03:42pm PT
Bump for Winter ascents
YetAnotherDave

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Dec 27, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
Great TR, love the 'weather shadow' pics
Dave Tapes

Trad climber
Silverado CA
Dec 27, 2007 - 11:42pm PT
Nice job guys, I spent Christmas day on the Trip back in 1985. The last 48 hours on the wall it was storming big time. I remember topping out in freezing rain. Reading your account really took me back.

thanks

DW
Mr.T

Big Wall climber
topanga
Dec 28, 2007 - 01:26am PT
Nice! Here are a couple more of you guys. My climb wasn't as successful, but still gobs of fun! (see video TR)

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5655250788357335759&hl=en


The quotes are from a book "warrior of the light" by Paulo Coehlo (one of four I read up there!)








-Wiggy

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Dec 28, 2007 - 12:07pm PT
Jean Paul! You and your bro Rock hard. Outstanding...You told me you were gonna go, but then the weather came in and I thought you'd a probably bailed. But NO! Sweet success is yours.

Up and Away!
Mr.T

Big Wall climber
topanga
Dec 28, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
did I hear somebody call you the "Sac" boys? that's almost as cool as the "Cane" brothers.....

Ladies, beware of these two!
pc

climber
East of Seattle
Dec 28, 2007 - 12:48pm PT
Excellent report and effort! Thanks for sharing.

pc
coldrainsnow

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 28, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
Bump for Mr. T's awesome video TR, complete with inspirational quotes and olde E video montage... nice work wiggie, it looks like you still fought a good fight.

will we see you in Jtree at all this year or are you going to be beating down some public school kids?
Mr.T

Big Wall climber
topanga
Dec 28, 2007 - 04:39pm PT
BOTH!

(should be in JT mon-fri, freeeeeeclimbing!)
salad

climber
San Diego
Dec 28, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
cool vid zak
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Dec 28, 2007 - 07:29pm PT
"I must not be much of a climber because my favorite day was this day where we sat out the worst of the storm reading and drinking coffee and whisky."

Actually, I think this puts you up there with the greats...;-)
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 28, 2007 - 08:11pm PT
Gene pool - great TR...thanks for the pix. Brings back memories - I did the third ascent with Ron and Dale waaaay back in the day. 5 days, 4 bivys and we froze our butts off on the last bivy 'cuz we got caught in a freak spring snowstorm and didn't have enough warm stuff. Looks like you guys were well prepared but I know it must have been pretty darn cold up there.

Congrats, jb
Wade Icey

Big Wall climber
Indian Caves, CA
Dec 28, 2007 - 08:59pm PT
Exxxxxxcellent.
coldrainsnow

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 31, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
bump for NYE!!!
Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Dec 31, 2007 - 04:10pm PT
hey mr bachar,
anyway you can dig up some pics of that 3rd ascent for us?
David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
Dec 31, 2007 - 06:59pm PT
Great TR, nice to read while I was warm!

Now that you have warmed up a bit, can you give us more detail about the technical aspects of the winter ascent?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2008 - 01:58pm PT
Nice alpine gusto guys!! And way to pull out that camera. Thanks for posting up.

Hoooo Man JB, I didn't know that you did many of those big tapping routes. I did the fifth ascent with Mason Frichette from Boulder just after Eric Weinstein and Glenn Randall in 1977.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 1, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
We didn't have a camera...
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jan 1, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
Thanks for the inspirational TR SWeeeet and congrats.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jan 1, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
Great job on the climb, and great TR. You guys are ready for Alaska or Baffin, now.

-Jello
Dave Tapes

Trad climber
Silverado CA
Jan 1, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
Jeff, I seem to remember wearing mountain boots on the climb and taking a pair of crampons and a ice axe. We didn't have to use the ice gear but I recall leading some kind of 5.6 slabs in the pouring rain, in mountain boots! We topped out late in the day and spent a cold wet night on top. By the time we got down we were soaked to the bone.

DW

ps Jeff when are we going rideing!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
Here's my old green Meyer's guide topo annotated by Eric Weinstein. The 'scarry' [sic] note written in wiggly letters next to the headwall pitch is my favorite notation. When I did that pitch, no placement on the entire headwall was capable of holding a hard fall. Things are a bit different these days.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 1, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
Thank you, Steve. In reply, here's a photo of Eric, taken by Dave Nicol in 1975 or 1976.

Edit: I'm fairly sure that Eric was first to free one of the pitches on the Trip, but don't know which one. An undercling or layback?
kuan

Sport climber
CA
Jan 2, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
Mike,

You effin' badass. Let me buy you a celabratory beer next Tuesday, when the beer is cheap...

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 9, 2008 - 01:49am PT
Wow, this thread refuses to die for how many posts it has. So, if jb did the third in 197? and Steve Grossman did the fifth in 1977, I wonder where my ascent fell in the numbers? My buds and I did it in Feb. of 82 or 83. I can't quite remember. Does anyone even keep track past five ascents and does anyone even care. Being a lesser climber that doesn't get out much and is reliving any past glory, however insignificant, I'm somewhat curious. Flail away boys, My ego can take it.
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