Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2007 - 01:54am PT
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Any of you off-width weasels get on this thing? Looks fun.
Oliver Plante working it in the photo. He sent a day or two later.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 22, 2007 - 02:27am PT
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check out widefetish.com, there's a link to a vid of someone doing it trenchstylee.
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Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
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Dec 22, 2007 - 02:58am PT
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Jaybro? Is there an off-width you have not climbed?
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Dec 23, 2007 - 04:37am PT
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That is the sickest thing I've ever seen. One day in Moab, I saw crack house. "Cool!" I said, and was inspired to climb it one day. I wandered up to that thing in LLC on another outing, and I was silent and afraid to even touch it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2007 - 10:31am PT
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Many, Lon but I have done that one...
=the start
looking the pther way
-getting in to the no-hands rest
after the hard parts
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Dec 23, 2007 - 10:33am PT
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is that climbing or caving ? looks like a little of both...
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Dec 23, 2007 - 12:40pm PT
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Awesome pix. Jay, you're the man, man!
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
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Kick ass Jaybro! that thang is proud.
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Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
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My guess is cause you have not seen them yet. LOL Jaybro you da man!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2007 - 05:19pm PT
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Watched that video, cool stuff. It 's easier if you always keep your toes pointing, more or less, north.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 26, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
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This thing is basically my dream route, top of my most wanted list. Hope to finally get on it this year. Gotta start a wicked inverted sit-up regimen.
Jaybro, what do you mean by keeping your toes pointed "north"? Like straight up vs to one side or the other, or literally north?
Also interesting to see you did the whole rig with your left side leading, seems like all the pics/video etc I've seen have people doing the first half left leading, then leaving the pod right side leading.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 26, 2007 - 03:44pm PT
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Left foot leading IS a better way to describe it. (in which case, cause it's still narrow heel toe, your toes point north, kinda.) I would think the second half would be harder facing the other way, instead of just a foot slide that made it trivial until the lip..
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 26, 2007 - 04:22pm PT
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The fall looks heinous if you boffed the pro.
Nice pics Jaybro!@
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 26, 2007 - 06:37pm PT
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One of the cruxes of this climb is placing enough pro. Place too little and you face a TBI- best case scenario. It's not like you're landing on your feet!
I'm pretty sure I've never placed that many peices in that short a distance on any other free climb.
(thanks, couch)
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Feb 25, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
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Bump for the WIDE!!!!
how far off the ground is that thing?!? looks like ground fall could be a real issue? more at the end than at the start?
looks awesome though!!!!
cheers,
patrick
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 25, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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more pics of the Jaybro sendingpoweroffwidthstylee.com
nice!
has anyone spit out of that thing head first and whacked the nog?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 25, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
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Not that I know of, but there have some very close calls, we taped ensolite over killer edges.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Feb 26, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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"One day in Moab, I saw crack house. "Cool!" I said, and was inspired to climb it one day. I wandered up to that thing in LLC on another outing, and I was silent and afraid to even touch it."
Those few sentences are so evocative--paints a beautiful picture of a feeling we've all had at one time or another, a mixture of fear, respect, desire, and the awful/aweful thought of actually climbing it.
Brian
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Feb 26, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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brett
climber
oregon
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Feb 26, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
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can someone hand you the pieces as you need them?
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Feb 26, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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they could, yes
crashpads are nice as well, for warming up and protecting the finish
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 26, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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They could, in much of it, but it's not the kind of place you want to be thinking like a golfer. Grab and place, rack in sequence, is the way to go.
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Marshall
climber
bay area
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Feb 26, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
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handsome b, killer pic..
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Feb 26, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
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That's odd...in all those pix, why is the person taking the pictures holding the camera upside down?!
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Feb 26, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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little cottonwood canyon?, i believe. Salt Lake City
when is this thing dry enough to try? might be down that way at the end of march
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 27, 2009 - 12:50am PT
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Yup, LCC. on the southside, not that far up the canyon. Our friend Fred, a local, will know about the conditions, or who to contact about them. Watch your email for his contact info.
A best case scenario, would be that you get him to go there and send it with you. He'll remember the approach once he gets there.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:05am PT
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Burly. Thanks for the pics.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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In the photos I posted, Mike was belaying me. His stepdaughter Katie (age 13, at the time, a grown up, now, currently off .saving the world in Guatemala) took the photos.
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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Is there still a brand new #5 C4 Camalot near the start?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 27, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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on the ground? It would be hard to get one in, there, at the start.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Feb 27, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
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yeah it'd be cool to try it with mike
did he try it when you guys went their?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 28, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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I would not have gotten through the crux that first day, if Mike hadn't talked me though it with the sort of enthusiam and encouragement that was not going to stand a lot of excuses on my part.
"If you're a vedauwoo climber you just know you can armbar-mantle on shˆt like that, don't fool around." or words to that affect.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Rugby shirt? Check. Tape glove? Check. Focus of the ancients? Check.
Brad Jackson on Trench Warfare from Alpinist #1, photo by Kennan Harvey. (Spellcheck of the luddites? Check.)
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seamus mcshane
climber
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That would be BRAD Jackson, photo by KENNAN Harvey.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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That's what I heard, too. When I did it, (after Brad, I think,) I made a point of pulling the lip. Though I didn't, on various practice attempts (it's a 5.9 move, at most).
I had a whole nomenclature for different variations, based on the original name;
Pull the lip and you have climbed 'over the top'.
Do it backward, and I had some other name that I can't recall at this time.
Start from one end andWgo to the other and then return to your starting point- "A year in the Trenches."
I never did it East to west, but I will suggest that that is the easier direction.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Awesome photos... Jaybro, you are the OW King in my book
Hey, were is this climb? (sorry for sounding like a nooobe, but I've never seen/heard of it)
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