Discussion Topic |
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 17, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
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I know there's still some days left to get more best moments in for some of you...GO GET EM! But it's cold here now and no more climbing for me this year.
In the spirit of keeping ST climbing-related, let's hear about our best moments on the rock(or somewhere NEAR the rock) this year.
For me, it was following a 5.8 pitch at the Gunks called Raunchy.
I was in a party of 3, and the leader had gone up Hyjeck's Horror. He set up a TR, and I was going to try it. The route is thin at the start, with an awkward opening move, and then up on small holds.
Having tried it once before, I knew the key to the start. But I hadn't been able to commit to a move a bit higher at the time, and though I got a little further on this attempt, I just could not commit to the sequence. I tried, half-heartedly and of course I came off. Well - maybe my attempt was even three-quarter or seven-eights hearted, but it wasn't enough to stick to the wall.
The other in our group did get through, and they asked if I wanted to try again. I did, but again failed. They told me to keep trying, but I knew I didn't have it, and declined.
It was "my turn" to pick the next route, since the others had chosen the first two we had done. Since we had a ropegun for the day, I didn't want to choose - it's the leader's prerogative, in my opinion. But David(divad, here at ST) is pretty easy-going. And he was like "Oh come on - pick something!"
I looked through the book, for something nearby that would be a decent lead for him but not impossible for our other partner and myself. Not so much in the neighborhood, that I knew he'd not already climbed many times. Finally, I came upon Raunchy, and said "What about this one?"
off we headed.
Imagine my dismay when I came to the route and saw a line of exactly the same type of climbing I'd just failed trying, but on steroids. Not just a few thin holds, but a quite long sequence of them, with no rest until a ledge several feet up.
I was belaying, and with the no-pro start, it was a spotting job until he reached that ledge. He told me he had led the route before, and to watch him just in case. And so, I did.
While he was preparing to start though, I had taken a look at the lower portion, and though it looked harder than anything I had ever done before, at least in the "thin, face" category, I could see a sequence and understood it. I told myself to give one hundred percent when it was my turn to climb. No bullsh#t. No giving up. If I came off, it was going to be against my will.
When it came my turn, I took a moment to relax and get focused, and when I was ready, I committed myself and gingerly, tentatively, set to the sequence.
There was a moment where I almost lost it, and I quickly made a quantum shift in balance and righted things. I came to a crimp that was smaller than anything I had ever used before in my life. But I knew the route had been done before, by many people, and told myself that I could do it too.
When I moved onto and used that crimp to go up, I was elated at the feeling I had. But then it came time to find feet! I had to use a similar hold, and felt waves of insecurity. Again, I told myself to do it, and use my bodyweight and the shoe rubber for friction to aid passage. Setting my foot, and pressuring dead weight onto the spot, I found myself as rooted to the wall as the pine pitches growing from crannies in the face up above.
When I reached the big ledge, I was ecstatic! I had done it. Done what before had not been possible for me. I basked in the feelings until my partners egged me on and laughed. Then, I took just a little more time for myself. I had to, in order to stave off negative feelings. I'm not used to taking ALL I need to climb. I tend to be the type who doesn't want to hold someone else up or put myself in a position requiring another's patience.
Finally, I was ready to continue, and soon enough, I came to the ral crux of the pitch! hahaha. It took me a little effort to figure out, since there were actually two ways I could see to go. One definitely seemed harder, but the other offered an exposed vista, and I hadn't perused the route from ground to know what was on the other side of the void....
Eventually I chose the exposure, and was grateful once I passed through a bit of a troubling sequence. It had seemed nothing in comparison to the lower section to me, though.
The rest of the pitch was easier climbing and fun. I puled up to the belay about as happy as I'[d ever been on a day of climbing.
That's my moment in 2007. I fell off on p2, though and have to admit it was probably because I didn't fully commit before making a tough move.
Live, and learn.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Dec 17, 2007 - 12:27pm PT
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When the heli left the meadow.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
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When Ammon lifted his head after the plunge and I knew, at least, he wasn't dead... priceless!!
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Mr. D
Trad climber
West Coast
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Dec 17, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
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Fishook Arete of Mt. Russell in a day (Late April, 2007)
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 17, 2007 - 12:34pm PT
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Happie,
Glad to be there for your best moment.
I'll have to think awhile about mine. I had quite a few of them.
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TradIsGood
Recently unshackled climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Dec 17, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
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Best?
Definitely up there.
Dropping into the boat, avoiding a swim back to the base of the climb.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Dec 17, 2007 - 01:01pm PT
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Highlight of the year was almost definitely climbing Chrome Plated....blabla... at Lumpy Ridge this year.
one of my favorite long moderate routes, one of my usual 'warm ups' when i first get to Estes. this was my third trip up it.
I got to lead the whole way this year. the weather started off just a gorgeous day. just as my partner was coming into the 2nd pitch belay i could see the storm line coming in way ahead of schedule. told my partner, we're sure to get soaked like drowned rats whether we immediately bail or not, wanna try to wait it out? we traversed across the left and got in the lee of a boulder into a pretty comfy spot. kicked back, ate a candy bar, smoked some ciggy's and just chilled for about an hour. didn't get all that wet, the lightning was crashing like mad and when the front passed over the view was amazing the way you could see Longs bending the weather. after the storm we got out onto the ledge, stretched our legs and soaked up the sunshine as we once again returned to a perfect 80 degree bluebird day. half hour later us and the rock had dried up, we ran up the next three pitches thoroughly enjoying the wonderful climbing the route has to offer. Sat on the summit of The Pear for about an hour, soaking up the surreal view of Estes and then started talking about how starving we are. made is back to the car in the deserted parking lot just about dark, chatted with A ranger for a bit, i guess everybody else cleared out due to the storm, he laughed figuring it made sense some vacationers from chicago would be up for the full value outing.
followed up with a big dinner at Ed's, a bit of campfire and beers and an early bedtime to head up to longs in the morning.
just a damn enjoyable day. its amazing how completely fantastic a long moderate route can be.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Dec 17, 2007 - 01:05pm PT
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Last week I was in Lake Louis, Alberta. It was my first trip up north, and the snow had shut down all the routes I wanted to get bouted on.
I was pulling around the final curtain on Loise Falls, and stopped to take a moment, really look around and actually enjoy where I was. It was breathtaking.
On my birthday July 15 I climbed the reg route on 1/2 dome. I can't believe it took me 14 years of climbing to climb that route. ALLTIME CLASSIC. My bestfriend tied to me, my girlfriend bivi'n at the base. Vegas to Vegas in a long weekend.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Dec 17, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
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Every minute I could spend on or near the mountains was my best moment. Many hours I spent terraining at the top of the tram with climbing shoes and chalk bag. Meandering through the rock, I kept my eyes peeled for the next cool ascent. James, the local top of the tram expert, kept me up to date on the coolest boulders, many of which were beyond my ability. He coached me up some interesting moves. Here is a self portrait on the knife edge summit of Cornell Peak.
Climbing with my daughter is the best of the best.
The Jude's Joint Boulder sits on the rim of the world. Yes, I fed my ego with that name. I hope you can all visit there with me. What a spot to hang out and climb. There are some very cool routes on the left hand arete. An 8000 ft drop is just to the right of the photo.
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Richard
climber
Bend, OR.
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Dec 17, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
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Reaching the JMT after getting pasted with 42mph winds from pitch three to the top, then descending the slabs on Cathedral Peak
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Dec 17, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
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* SE Face of Steins Pillar, Mill Creek Wilderness, Ochoco Mtns, Oregon- With a couple of my oldest friends in the world. Keith and Mel I've known since I was 15 yrs old, Buggs I've known since I went into the military in 1982.
Steins Pillar is pretty far from the crowds at Smith Rocks on a weekend. We had the whole place to ourselves for two days. We walked in, humped some gear, took in the gorgeous scenery and did some unknown toproping the first day, then hiked out to our cozy camp. We played old school tunes on the guitars and had some firelight talking late into the night.
The next day we hiked back into the pillar and had five great pitches of steep free climbing, a little funky aid, some manky gear and a beautiful summit to ourselves. All in all a perfect central Oregon day!
Second favorite, taking my 9 yr old daughter and my 7 yr old son climbing here in Virginia and sitting on top of the cliff watching the sunset and talking about what it means to be a climber!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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Heeeeey Jude!!
I thought climbing with me was the best of the best.
lars
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
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Hey k - the conness north ridge is proud, man. I did that a year ago or so with a couple of friends. We ran up North Peak and then Conness and it was just an awesome experience.
Big hike, though. We didn't think we ever get back to the car over at Saddlebag lake - and the mosquitos were so bad that I'm pretty sure I saw them actually pick up one of my partners briefly...
Is Revival that thin-ish pin scarred crack in Church Bowl?
Aaron
I had two "best" climbing moments in 2007.
1) Climbing Comic Relief in the Black, leading Pitch 2 (10b or so) - crack traverses near-horizontally and gets thin and disappears for a wide armspan or so with palm-divot smears for feet and what feels like (and may well be) a thousand feet of exposure dropping off steeply below you. Making the move, runout 15-20 feet sideways, gripped, realize that the piece I place after the move will prevent my second from being able to make the same move, stopping and placing a different one and retrieving the first. Sending the rest of the route on guts and grimaces, with typical Black adventure and having the time of my life. Followed by wine-sloshed re-cap of every detail that night in Ouray. Awesome.
2) Sending 7 Spanish Angels (tallish V6 boulder problem on the Get Carter boulder in the Milks) in front of a group of new friends at dusk after working it with them for a couple of hours. It has a scary jump (for me, at least) at the top off of pretty bad hand holds to a three fingered jug. The full-throated roar that followed sticking that move made me feel like a hero for once. The cold beer and warm camraderie of that day and night was amazing, and in the true spirit of climbing.
-Aaron
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tdk
climber
puhoynix
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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Trying out the brand spankin' new Kaukulators I found on ebay for $65! I bought my first pair 15 years ago for around $150 and loved them through several resoles, finally had to give them up. The new ones are just as sweet as the originals.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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Hey Mike Bolte, I think you're the guy to whose webpages/photo I linked on the Lembert Dome Rescue thread. Nice pages BTW.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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1. Stayed alive.
2. Had fun.
Does anything else matter?
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
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I'm like Jody. . .none yet, too many days in school and
work! But readin' 'bout you all has been great!
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
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wow, looking sketchy, I think you climbed more routes that day than I did all year!
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brat
climber
The Portal
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
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I've got so many.
First time to the top of Mariuolumne, via Hobbit Book. I was just giddy leading the last pitch.
Topping out on the Third Pillar of Dana, and getting to eat a Big Sur bar from my pack right there at the top of the climb!
FINALLY getting to stick my feet in Roosevelt Lake after a day up the West Ridge and down the North Ridge of Conness. I do *NOT* recommend heading down the talus slope toward Roosevelt Lake from the North Ridge. But finally getting to the lake was awesome... saw a bald eagle!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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Sketchy, that is RAD - congratulations. Looks like a dogged effort to say the least, and many props to your friends - I should forward that link to my friends to give 'em some ideas for my birthday in'08.
Any falls or hangs throughout the day? Just curious whether your endurance is super super human, or just super human. And North Overhang as the 53rd, very nice. Probably best you didn't leave Leave It To Beaver for last.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:45pm PT
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Le-Bruce, you should definitely go for it. Two close calls, but no falls (or hangs-same thing). All leads or FS. Figured I better go for before it got any harder. Thanks again to Andy, Tom, Dave, Chris and Holden. There is no way I could have attempted this without them. They were awesome.
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:49pm PT
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My favorite and most rewarding "moment" of the year was a rare ascent of Mt. Winchell's West Arete in Sierra Nevada. Incredible adventure climbing in a gorgeous setting.
(photo copyright by Pavel Kovar)
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
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One major highlight was the last rappel down Deer Creek falls in the Grand Canyon with my son Braden, Brian Sweeney, and John ? . We were really not sure that we wouldn't drown.
In terms of going up, it would have to be the Nose in June and the last day. Leading every pitch, I had shaken off my off-the-couch rustiness and got into a great groove, (and so did my partner on 2nd). Jon Gleason and partner were cranking it in a fast day training for their soon after 1/2 Dome and NIAD combo. I felt proud that I was leading and hauling fast enough that they only very slowly gained on us, had to jug my line on the pitch off of camp 5 to pass, and then we only fell behind one pitch between camp 5 and the top. Not that I generally have any kind of competitive attitude, I was just psyched to be in such a flow and relative to some rad speed masters who I respect and like.
Peter
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Darren D.
Social climber
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Dec 17, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
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Graduation + Climbing = Best moment of 2007
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Dec 17, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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Getting back into climbing after a 12 year hiatus.
Prod.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 17, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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The best moments were meeting the likes of people like Jeff Lowe. Of course meeting the rest of the sushifest crowd is a very close second... but ya'll's can understand.
I don't recall anything that sticks out in my head as far as best moments. The trip I took to the East side and Tuolumne with my friend Tina sticks out as the best time I've had climbing this year. In fact, belaying her on her first lead is one of my favorite moments.
I've been working on a sport climb project here locally at The Pit called the Joker. After sitting on the couch for a few weeks took a top rope run on it and only had to hang once. That was my best effort on the climb and I surprised myself a little bit.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Dec 17, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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Cutting it fine:
Getting my right foot, finally, onto that big feldspar crystal
that let me know, Yes, I had made it through the crux of the
Left Torpedo Tube.
Slightly larger scale:
Climbing Maria's Delight at Woodson, with Grug and Tom Gibson
looking on. I'm sure it was "just" a magical moment kind of thing
but everything below the squeeze section struck me as one of the
finest climbs I'd ever been on. I was high flying.
Larger still:
getting to Woodson and Vedauwoo for the first time.
Extending my social net, with strong ST connections, has been
exceedingly powerful for me. Just not "best moment" category, but
too important not to mention.
Thanks to all my new friends for sweetening my life.
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exposeur
Trad climber
santa cruz
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Dec 17, 2007 - 03:47pm PT
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this summer i got Do or Fly, 11c on puppy dome in TM, with much encouragement, and had never trad lead harder than 10d before that. stoked! later i was on blues riff and ran out of gear. i was doing it in one pitch, i had the hardest friggin time clipping that first bolt, fiddled around way too long on the crux, trying to get rests on the overhanging lieback stuff, wrist jamming, shaking and wobbling like hell.. my belayer said if my last shitty piece had blown it likely coulda been a 70 footer or somethin. wee!
http://photos-105.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v112/62/61/715137105/n715137105_150759_5717.jpg
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 04:36pm PT
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Lot and lots of great moments this year:
An unlikely ascent with Nurse Ratchet of Grassi Ridge on Wiwaxy Peak after deciding, spur-of-the-moment, to try to get camping space at Lake O'Hara. Night before the climb it stormed and left a half-inch of verglas coating the rock. We waited 'til noon
to let it melt off, then blasted. Got back to camp just at dark.
Northwest Corner of North Early Winter Spire. Washington Pass is an incredible area. Our first time there.
Devil's Tower.
City of Rocks.
North Ridge of Mt. Conness with full overnight packs.
Royal Arches and North Dome South Face with bivies.
Bow-Yoho Traverse across the Wapta Icefields on tele gear.
Many many other moments. They were all the best.
Brutus
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Dec 17, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Climbing with you in Joshua Tree.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 17, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
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My first trip ever to City of Rocks, sandwiched between days in the Tetons. Spent 8 days at the City with no rain, a great crew, a nice campsite, and plenty of beer. All the climbing was amazing, but the sweetest was getting up Pigs on a Wing, clean, on my birthday. Partied hard that night and still had a good following day of climbing.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
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Best moment? Realizing what a lucky, lucky guy I am.
Here's me on my B-Day this year with Allison. My first trip back to Yosemite in nearly 10 years, since I learned how to climb. And she wanted to share it with me.
The T-shirt I'm wearing was a present from her. She designed it and hand-made it (cool pic of a splitter hand-crack on the back).
Speaking of which, despite her reticence about crack climbing, here she is showing her willingness to break out of her comfort zone.
Plenty of superb days with other partners this year, but that trip to the Valley simply can't be beat.
GO
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Dec 17, 2007 - 04:58pm PT
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My first 5.8 leads at Tollhouse Rock (March).
My first WI4 leads in Canada (Professor Falls, 2nd & 3rd pitch), also in March.
Soloing the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire car-to-car (August).
I won't be climbing again until August of next year at the earliest, and it will be like starting all over again ... hello Munginella and Aunt Fanny's Pantry :)
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SamRoberts
climber
Bay Area
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Dec 17, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
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Scrambling up an un-named 18000+ ft bump in western Tibet looking out over the Chang Tang, aka the Big Open. Nothing but space and silence.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Dec 17, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
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Tapping into a hidden beauty, somewhere in the southern Sierra. The FA of 'Three Amigos' (5.10+)
'Burrito Bandito' (5.9+)
My golden friendship with this modest chap
Chattin' with this pioneer of Sierra Nevada climbing, Glen Dawson
Trackin' down one of Suicide's last remaining aid lines.....'Forest Lawn'
Good ol' Jack McBroom (aka wallspeck). Good times sharing whoppered out stories, swappin' leads, a life teacher, and having him as a dear friend and the dude that married Rockcritter and myself. Long may you run, Jack!
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ct
climber
CA
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Dec 17, 2007 - 07:07pm PT
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2007 was my best year climbing. I feel extremely lucky to have had so many incredible experiences this year with my close friends. It is difficult to sum up any one 'best moment,' but some of the highlights were...
Sent my first .12 on gear.
Sent my first .13 on bolts.
Sent my first v9 over a pad.
Led every pitch on the Casual Route, onsight, wet, last two pitches in a rainstorm. Made it down unscathed.
Found, cleaned, and put up many new boulder problems.
Placed my first bolt.
Put up a new trad route.
Bummed it in the Creek for a month, total.
Soloed Cathedral Peak and West Country in an afternoon.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 17, 2007 - 07:16pm PT
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Pretty hard to top the FaceLift. Though I didn't once put on the rope.
SushiFest at St. George was pretty good, too, and I did climb one pitch there.
Plus I got to climb one day with Bryan L in Tuolumne, and he learned me a bit about the geology.
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Michelle
Trad climber
a camper shell somewhere, soon to be the Carolinas
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Dec 17, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
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some guy whose name I can't remember..
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 17, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
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Reuniting somewhere in the basin and range, with my best friend/climbing partner, and seeing a decade of acrimony / loose ends, disolve, as we came back to a seemingly earlier temporal place, that could only happen now; is as good as it can possibly get.
There were many many other mind numbingly worthwhile moments as well. Mostly at the crags more than on the routes.
-though climbing spectreman clean (I was part of the FA team, BITD)after a period of not climbing well (wouldn't have happened with out the reuniting event mentioned above) was a pretty happening climbing situation.
I hope it was as good a year for y'all, as it was for me!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Dec 17, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
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Finally nabbing the AstroMiner after 4 trips up there ( this constitutes a major project for me).
Grabbing the flake at the top of the hooking pitch on the Hallucinogen...things hadn't been looking too good for me up 'til that point.
Topping out on the Tete du Leon at sunset, wondering how the hell we were going to get down, and then discovering the Berber goat trail (think W. Ridge in Eldo, say) that took us all the way down in half an hour.
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Dec 17, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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nice work ct - those are my verbatim goals that seem to stretch further away from me each year.
Mine was climbing the Mountaineers route in the sawtooths with two of my best friends.
onsite fa of a route or two this summer - again with good friends.
coming back from an injury and getting back my grrr is still happening.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 18, 2007 - 01:47am PT
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Did about 40 F A's this year;...all in Joshua Tree;.....in fact, I only climbed in Joshua Tree (and 4 days in Seneca, W. Virginia).......babies held me hostage....new routes keep me motivated and psyched and curious and eager......it makes the climbs much more interesting.....all done on the lead;...or else it wouldn't be so exciting, would it?
You will probably want to add these to your "hit " list for this season; (destined to be classics...)
I Love My Marine 5.5
Sokolove 5.5
A Dot of Culture 5.6
Hot -N-Ready 5.7
Demon Decons 5.7
Snottrockets 5.7
Respect My Peeps 5.7
Tart and Tiny 5.7
Chubs 5.7
Michael Paul Glazer 5.7
A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari 5.7
Weiner Inspector 5.8
My Naughty Little Donkey 5.8
Licking the Toad 5.8
Nicole Kidman 5.8
Bongo Johnny 5.9
An Erection Lasting Longer Than 4 Hours 5.9
Doke 5.9
Phelp's Chevrolet 5.9
Man Boobs 5.9
I Smell Bacon 5.10-
Rim Marcinkus 5.10-
Licking the Wood 5.10-
Meth Mart 5.10-
Woody's Whirlpool Bath 5.10-
Cockpit 5.10-
Baconator 5.10-
Uncle Len's Pot Farm 5.10-
Keeping the Dragon at Bay 5.10-
Cherry Glazer 5.10-
Puss Boy 5.10-
The Fetus 5.10-
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa 5.10-
Hollywood Rattlesnake 5.10-
Dick Cheny 5.10+
Funky President 5.10+
The Belt Sander 5.10+
I Love My Marine (direct) 5.10+
Mortal Thoughts 5.10+
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 18, 2007 - 03:19am PT
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Onsight Soloing right side of this...
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Dec 18, 2007 - 03:42am PT
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Yea every moment was wonderful. This has been one of the best years climbing in my life! But to say best moment I am stuck between two.
One in my ignorance before I started.
One in total joy but exhausted, needing this little tree for shade.
2008 is looking even better!
Aloha,
wil
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Dec 18, 2007 - 04:01am PT
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Getting to the top of Pervertical Sanctuary in a waterfall with lightning going off around us was pretty sweet.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Dec 18, 2007 - 11:41am PT
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Hearing the first drops of rain on my portaledge fly and my partner asking if we should do another round of coffee. Sure signs that we may get a rest day/weather day to hang out, listen to our Ipods and hide in our ledges. (Of course he'd fix a pitch, but no bivy break down!)
And we didn't get just one day like this...we got three!!!!!!
I can almost say I've ever had a better moment climbing ever. Aside from getting to a few cool locations with favorite partners and having time to hang out and chat before rapping down.
So here's to more drizzle days and posh belays in 2008! :) :) :)
-Kate.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 18, 2007 - 12:40pm PT
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My best moments in climbing this year weren't even climbing!
Just fun times with mates...
OK, OK - if you must have a legit climbing photo:
[photos by Brenda and Holly]
Cheers and Merry Christmas, eh?
Pete
Great photo, Darren!
Riley, you just GOTTA bring some of that Polygamy Porter to me in Yosemite this year - that beer appeals to me on so many levels.
Kate - here's hoping for rain
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:34pm PT
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If I had to choose one:
Cocaine Corner, finally. After maybe 75 attempts spread over 8 years, on the last day before returning to Josh for the winter, at the last minute.
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morse
Trad climber
CT
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Dec 18, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
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Topping out on MORDOR WALL at Cathedral Ledge 5 minutes before a thunderstorm.
Climbing CREST JEWEL on North Dome, Yosemite.
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Dec 18, 2007 - 03:48pm PT
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My best climbing moments in 2007 and pretty much all the climbing moments this year, were three weeks in July.
I wanted to do Norman Clyde for years and finally got up there. We did the Twilight Pillar, this was during the gnarly fires in the Owens Valley.
Summit of Norman Clyde
Smoke plume from the Independence Fire
Then we hiked out and the next day we hiked into Mt Haekel soloing a nice easy 5th class route. That was a 25 miles of hiking, but the flowers and the weather was perfect. Pretty big for one weekend.
Picture peak on the way into Mt. Haekel
Looking down the Haekel route
The next weekend we did the classic Dark Star on Temple Crag. Very classic.
The start of the Dark Star.
Then finally the third weekend in a row and after 23 years I finally returned to the Keller Needle. I was there back in 1984 and my partner bailed at the base of the route. It was a long time coming.
For me the collective experience of those three weekends in July not only were my 2007 climbing exeriences but were the best for many years.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Dec 18, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
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Way to go Raydog.
I hope these changes continue for the good.
Next time, Boogaloo!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 18, 2007 - 07:57pm PT
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Kor route, Upper Great Face, highest position in The Crags above Estes Park.
Goatboy & me on the summit after 3 marvelous pitches of steep hands, wide, & fingerlocks.
Longs Peak Diamond in the background.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Dec 19, 2007 - 02:58pm PT
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Taking the twins to Tuolumne and watching them go crazy scrambling around. They were fearless and unstoppable.
Which is either a really good sign, or a bad one!
Bill
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 19, 2007 - 03:17pm PT
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Finishing my Ph.D. this summer, and then getting back into climbing this fall, after about twelve or so years off.
Best route of the season - Phobos!
I was also pretty psyched when that #5 Friend showed up on my doorstep the other day (Merry Christmas to me).
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Dec 19, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
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The Facelift in Yosemite was definately the highlight. Getting to meet everyone and getting an onsight of Bishop's Terrace. An outstanding route. Murcy, thanks for suggesting we do it and belaying me!
Edit; Actually the pic is Paulina who did the route just before us. I think that was her name...I always forget.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 19, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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It's a funny thing but thinking back over the year's highest points, I realized that the climbs that glow for me in retrospect are ones where my partners raved afterwards about what a great time they had.
Don't think I used to be that way.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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Dec 19, 2007 - 07:33pm PT
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Finally RPing a 5.11 after 11 years of climbing and rping a 6 year project.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Dec 20, 2007 - 12:40am PT
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Nice thread, happie. It's a fun read all right.
Hard to tell what the best moment for me was this year. It was a very stellar year, although certainly nothing spectacular happened. Just a great time all around.
Like our trip to Baboquivari in February. Barely fifth class, but a magical day.
Our trip to Birch Mountain was a fiasco in some ways, but it's a fond memory.
Likewise, Mt. Abbot is nothing to spray about but we had fun with our friend Ron, and we got to have beer for breakfast at Tom's Place!
People think the summit register on Black Kaweah is old, but it's not as old as these ferns we found a little below the summit.
Most Tacoans would yawn at the thought of Clarence King, but it was a beautiful day indeed, and more fun than we deserved. For a special bonus, find the blatant FISH plug in this pic.
Watching your girlfriend lead a 5.9 is a hoot!
For that matter, watching a friend head out on his first lead is too!
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 20, 2007 - 01:24am PT
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Right now my overall favorite (maybe because it's so recent), was rapping off of Bongs Away and Reed's in the twilight in the middle of last week. A gorgeous sickle of a moon faced the dying rays of muted winter sunset, as stars began to pierce the deepening indigo night. I closed my eyes through the mechanical motions of threading the rope through the ATC, trusting the feel of my fingers, and then briefly cursing the broken romance of using my headlamp to spot-check my work. But in seconds I was back in the dimmest twilight, staring at a panorama that proves the existence of god, or at least a divine principle in the natural ordering of the universe. I had one of those half smiles that belies more inner peace and harmony than a wide-mouthed grin ever could.
And I'd like to acknowledge the role that SuperTaco played in the creation of this and many other wonderful moments this year. While the sublime moments of solitude in climbing are special, I think they're even better when we experience them with others who recognize the same beauty. With some partners it kind of goes gruffly unspoken, with others we discuss it openly. But it's a common thread I think we all share. Supertopo has connected me with such people, and deeply enriched my life.
Thank you to supertopo folks I've climbed with over the last few years, and I look forward to meeting more of you!
But for now, time to focus on the next big thing: 30 hours from now, I'll be making the most of early light on the shortest day of the year, doing my duty to have more TR-worthy adventures so we can get that political crap off the front page.
Cheers!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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Dec 20, 2007 - 05:38am PT
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Finally getting on Matthes Crest. It was the best of moments and also the worst of moments since it was one of the few times I got out this year. There's always plenty to beotch about, but in the end, even the nasty moments seem to just get better with age... or at least they turn into a good story... this one included some of the most amusing whining I've encountered in a long time. Mostly, it was a fun time in the hills with a great pardner, 10b4me... that's for sure.
Mostly, my kids climbed on me and that is always a best moment.
Great thread.
Fletch
Edit: just to be clear... it was definitely not 10b4me doing the whining... not him! Not me either! Any whining from the leader and he gets an extra five feet of slack immediately!
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Dec 20, 2007 - 09:22am PT
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Doing FA's and drinking beer with Tucker, Steve Swan and a host of other degenerates on rotten rock.
Not dying as a result of the afor mentioned activites.
rlf
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2007 - 09:36am PT
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It IS a nice thread. Some really wonderful stuff has happened to the Taco, collectively, this year!
Gary - I would be so awed to come across those fern fossils. wow. And the Iris Road is gorgeous.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Dec 20, 2007 - 10:19am PT
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I'm going to have to call it a tie between belaying my sister's first lead in the uintas and the facelift...watching nature get sandbagged by the pancake man was a great moment in sports.
The Fishers with Riley is up there too...call it a three way...
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 20, 2007 - 10:24am PT
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I climbed less this year than any other (so glad to see it go), but three highlights when my partners went out of their way for me:
Wife and kids playing good sports while I searched and searched for boulders in Ireland.
Chiloe and Tarbuster giving me the pitch I had not yet led on a classic.
Jeremy and Sarah centering my short trip to Moab on the routes I was psyched to climb.
Thanks guys!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Dec 20, 2007 - 10:51am PT
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Getting to tie-in with my ol' Santa Barbara partner Joel, who moved to Norway to finish school and work. Fourteen years later, and it felt like yesterday.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 20, 2007 - 11:12am PT
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Chiloe and Tarbuster giving me the pitch I had not yet led on a classic.
That was a pretty good day. Here ya go again, laybackin' into the summer sun:
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Dec 20, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
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Sweet post up, Dave!
Those, especially Twilight Pillar, are climbs I've wanted to get on for years as well. Dark Star has been calling my name since I laid eyes on Temple Crag.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dec 20, 2007 - 01:06pm PT
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I didn't get on real rock as much as I'd have liked this year, and I barely got to climb w/ J. So only two climbs that I did (or tried to do) this year stand out as 'big adventures'. The first one only was especially adventurous b/c I got lost on the way down and we ended up enjoying the full moon till the sun came up. When you're only getting out every couple of months, a forced bivy on a mild night can be blissful in its way. It helps if your partner doesn't want to kill you for authoring the epic too.
My best single moment of actual climbing (not the warm-n-fuzzy stuff that surrounds it) was probably flashing my 'hardest' pitch ever in Indian Creek last month. It has tons of asterices, but I'm happy w/ it for what it was.
Best development of 2007...I took up bouldering in the gym. And I'm lovin' it! I may even get a crash pad and try it outside.
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Brian Boyd
Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Dec 20, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
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I started and ended 2007 with separate injuries. All of the time in between was pretty good. Highlights:
Taking a friend on his first day outside, and seeing the dopey grin on his face as he toppped out on a trad 5.6.
Making it back to the Valley and Joshua Tree after a decade-long absence from both. Led a ten at both, which was one of my goals for the year.
Met some highly idiosyncratic people, many of them SuperTopians.
Watching Kuan eat my food and borrow all sorts of things after mocking me for bringing so much crap to Flagstaff SushiFest.
Getting caught in the bottom of Paradise Forks during a torrential rain and lightning storm. The walk out was miserable and scary, but fun in an odd sort of way.
Leading my first 5.12 sport route.
Getting pummelled by an offwidth.
Started bouldering outside again. Climbed my first V3 in 17 years -- I hope that I don't have to wait as long for the next one...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 20, 2007 - 03:17pm PT
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One of the best moment of a very frustrating year (at least in terms of progress) happened at the very beginning of the year when Gary, Jaybro and I played on Gollum. This place under the Southeast wall of El Cap has always been a special place for me, it was one of the first places I visited in the Valley, however, its attraction to my spirit is greater than just the "imprinting" of that formative meeting.
That day we finished in the dusk and walked down to the Alcove to meet Jill and Luke. I've known Jill since she was 14 years old and I consider her a dear friend, I have known Luke for less time, he is a kindred spirit. To have everyone together sitting in that wonderful spot in that wonderful setting at that time of day was one of the best moments, and though not climbing, it was because of climbing.
Later in the year I took Debbie up there on her birthday to botanize under Horse Tail falls, she had never been up there. We stopped off under the famous "drip" and watched the individual drops catch the sun's light as they carved long streaming arcs blown by the wind. I told her that she should take my ashes and put them in the fire pit there after I die, my remains could be where I would like to be the most, and in the company of other climbers.
Perhaps too romantic a sentiment to ever be reality, but those times under the Captain were special this year. And if it does or doesn't ever happen it will be beyond my time to care.
the Valley view from the base of The Gollum January 2007
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 20, 2007 - 06:04pm PT
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Well, my worst moment was, maybe say halfway to two-thirds of the way down my 75-foot headfirst hurdle in the Black Canyon. No, I take that back...that was fun for me.
My best moment was probably topping out on the Flakes in the Black Canyon with George Lowe and meeting up with Mike Pennings and Jonny Copp who had just done an FA on the same wall.
The Woodson Shindig and the two Vedauwoo Bugaloos were notable runners-up.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 20, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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That evening in the alcove, in January, was unforgetable, it wasn't even cold.
What route, Melissa?
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Dec 21, 2007 - 01:51am PT
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The best moment in 2007: waking up on the Awahnee (sp?) Ledge on Leaning Tower in October. Even though we ended up bailing (first big-ish wall attempt). One of the best moments in my life altogether.
A good year.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dec 21, 2007 - 02:51am PT
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Jaybro...Sacred Cow. The astrices are that I was on TR and that the route was downgraded from the plaque in the guide and I'm sure someone will downgrade it for me further 'cause I'm a girl. I'm not sure it was really the hardest I've ever felt like I was climbing, but it's probably the closest to flashing 'that grade' that I'll ever come!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 21, 2007 - 03:40am PT
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never thought of the campfire ring as a final resting spot. kind a cool idea. where the fire side chats are and all that good stuff.
then again as a kid I used to pee in the fire rings at night.
i know better now, but still can't quite bring myself to think that's where I'd want to spread out after I'm gone.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Dec 21, 2007 - 10:05am PT
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My best moment, even though I felt like sh#t and did not lead any of it, was getting up Hair-Raiser Buttress with Finn.
Climbing with the incredible Bob Finn in 2007 was, well,
Incredibly terrifying! Wish we coulda done more.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2007 - 10:16am PT
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Mike didn't read the first sentence in the first post....
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Dec 21, 2007 - 11:08am PT
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I have two.
Turning 5ive-0h in Eldo climbing with friends representing over 420 years of cumulative climbing experience. Admittedly Jorge skewed the curve having started out with hob nailed boots and hemp rope. It was a great time.
Climbing Dream weaver in good alpine conditions with only a single mountain axe. Chopping steps like the old days. Topped out with my good friend Stephan and spread my Mother's and step Dad's ashes to the winds. Glorious day!
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 21, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
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Pulling out of a several-years tailspin of an imploding marriage, a move to a new town, coupla job changes, and general torpor to finally haul my ass off the couch and do some remedial bouldering at Stoney Point last weekend. It wasn't much, but after not climbing anything in what seemed like forever, it was pretty sweet.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 21, 2007 - 08:12pm PT
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Stony IS sweet.
Good 'nuff fer Kamps, then good 'nuff fer you & me.
I used teh bust out there usual like, for redemption's sake.
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 21, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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Oh yeah, I liked Stoney and look forward to going back. Not dissing the place at all, just dissing my not-too-inspired efforts there. But it felt goooooooood nonetheless.
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knucko
climber
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Dec 21, 2007 - 08:50pm PT
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Unfortunately this was not the best year for climbing. too much work. the best climbing moment for 2007 happens to be the best climbing moment after 19 years of climbing! I finally topped out on El Cap via the shield. what a great experience after two other tries on the nose that did not work out well.
but the best moment in 2007 was finding out that my wife and I are expecting our first child in February. Not enough climbing but still a great year!
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Dec 22, 2007 - 01:47am PT
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Best moment/image:
Belaying my son following the crux pitch of On the Lamb.
michael
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2007 - 02:08am PT
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Dec 22, 2007 - 02:08am PT
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Moments: the middle of Cowabunga, top of Grenade Launcher, pulling over on The King, hitting the finger bucket of Cellblock, mantling the rounded top of Gimme Back My Bullets yesterday, running around Castle Rock, Zebra Zion Seam at Smith, the Rostrum Berkeley to Berkeley in fourteen hours...
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Dec 22, 2007 - 02:49am PT
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Mtnmun - yer daughter's HOT!
LarsJohansen - besides being injured and not climbing most of the year, my worst climbing moment of '07 was not climbing with you.
My best moments were threefold:
Coming back from injury too soon and toproping at the overlook at Summer SushiFest with Mark Miller, Radical, Kuan, Tom The Cop, Brian, Mike. & Moria, etc.
(oops - forgot to take my camera to the crags)
Climbing for real again at JT SushiFest and hanging out with great folks.
Leading again at the East Animas crags in Durango.
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Dec 22, 2007 - 10:16am PT
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Dang Marty!
That picture sure isn't the best one of me. Jude has the deer in the headlights look too.
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Dec 22, 2007 - 10:24am PT
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Here's a pic of me from earlier in that day:
[imag]http://www.pcboudreau.com/images/Phil_Sunset.jpg{{/img}}
That was a very good day. Got in some good climbing with new friends.
Even though much of my mind was on climbing, most of my best images are from the world of whitewater:
I hope to get out more next year and hit real rock much more often. Thanks a lot Terri for getting this thread started.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2007 - 10:29am PT
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Don't worry, Phil - This ought to even things up a bit.... ClimbRunRide's new name is ClimbRunRideEmCowboy!
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Park City, UT
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Dec 22, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
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I didn't climb very much this year and was a lot more in to whitewater and fly fishing, but I did get 4 desert towers done. Two of them were FAs, and one was my first FA of a tower. Even though it is a small obscure tower, the route was great and I really enjoyed it.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 22, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
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A pretty lame "best" but here you go.
Last February, at "NJC"...yikes!
Getting injured and doing the rehab is getting old, but if you hang around long enuf in this climbing game, as most of you know, it will happen. Anyway I had been working up through the grades for a year (all of 2006) and the quad/knee was still giving me a hard time. The doc's told me that I should be OK around the first of the year.
I was getting ready to try a route that had just "denied" my two friends. Up walks "Tripper" and his entourage. He announces to his crew..."look that is a old trad, he has been climbing longer that any of you have been alive! See that belay device, that is a stich plate!...
he still uses one...ha ha ha" ( I do like Jack, we go way back ) So now I have my very competitive friends and Jack's crew all watching me. I could delay no longer it was my turn to climb. So
I proceeded to "Flash" the root in style! Peer pressure is a good thing! After that the knee stopped hurting all together (except for cold rainy mornings)and lots of other climbs have gone down in 07 but that was the "best moment of 07 for me".
thx....guyzo
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Dec 22, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
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Hey everyone, yes it is/was a memorable year for climbing and non- climbing. Boring stuff first. I sent my hardest rock climb ever and it was a first ascent. I call it Topical Rush. I failed over 50 times on an even harder project,still haven't sent, but I learned a lot. Pennsylenvy and I did a memorable 5 hour ascent of the Rostrum at the Face Lift. More importantly I attended every sushifest from St. George to Indian Creek, and I met Mal, PMB, Mark Miller, Radical, The Blinny's, Mighty HIker Happy, Crimpy, GoatBoy, Jaybro, Kuan, Ed, Prod and Crista, Bluering, Holdplease2, Todd. G, Phil B., Marty and Tom the Cops, and I ate a whole lotta sushi. My apologies to all my unnamed friends, this was a stream o conciousness post. However my favorite moment may have been when I read Riley's post on this thread. No matter how old and crusty you get it still feels good to be appreciated for no reason at all. Thanks everyone, see you in '08. The Dr.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 23, 2007 - 09:17am PT
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Bumpity bump bump...bump.
This is too good to not keep near the top for another week.
Posted at this time for "as the children of the sun begin to awake".
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2007 - 05:12pm PT
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Talking to Roy about what a rare moment it was, in the full moon, 9 degrees, maybe midnight, with a full wasabi/tequila buzz was memorable -style bump
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 23, 2007 - 08:47pm PT
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Bump!!!
Great thread.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Dec 31, 2007 - 02:52pm PT
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Belay-slaving for my uncle as he completed a "birthday challenge" in JT: 55 "laps" (he'd lead a pitch then TR it into submission) on ten separate routes, 5.7 - 10d.
Showing my wife around Zion.
Seeing Sonic Youth perform Daydream Nation with Tom and Rosalie from Bishop.
Getting back into the Palisades a couple times.
Eating my weight in pie at the Park Cafe in East Glacier.
Cragging under blue skies in the Bugaboos.
Talking poops with old dudes here on the Taco.
(old photo, but you get the picture)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 31, 2007 - 03:42pm PT
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Looks like you hada good year, Marty. Are there recordings of that Daydream Nation event?
-I hadda work, or something.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Dec 31, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
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Jaybro,
Tom dubbed it but it turned out too muddy to use. I'm sure there are recordings floating around the ether. If you file-share, try "soulseek". That's the most reliable hub for bootlegs, demos, and archived 7"s from an era before digital recording.
Just got back from JT. Had a blast. We should meet up at some point here in 08. I'll be working more 60 hour tomb rides and will be in dire need of a mental health holiday!
Take care,
VLG
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 31, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
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I would have to say that my best day in climbing was the first day I was in Tuolumne this spring. Last labor day I got blown the F*** up. Some jack ass didn't cap some gas pipes and I was in the house when it blew up. I pretty much should have died, I got 3rd degree burns over 75% of my body. Head to toe. I worked my ass off, did rehab until I bled and cried. Nine months later I was back to full strength (almost). So June 5th, I linked up Unicorn, Cockscomb, 4 or 5 Echo peaks and Cathedral. I felt good and proud of myself. Now, 16 months later I am better than before. Surfing MUCH better than ever, and climbing as well as ever. Hell yeah!!!!
Patrick
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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you can get your own "i heart crack" shirt here...
http://www.cafepress.com/mojo.1602166
damn, that was from a while back!
very little climbing this year... though I did still manage to lead some 5.10 wayyyyyy off the couch.
climbing mostly now w/ skis on my back or attatched to feet.
hope the taco is holding up.
jason
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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holy smokes there's no way i can pick one. with my son: his first trad seconds at lovers leap on knapsack crack (okay, that's my pick if i'm forced) one day, then deception and pop bottle another. with stanford friends, a day at discovery wall at pinnacles, and day in the valley on easy routes. with internet partner finds, a spring trip up east buttress of middle cathedral complete with epic snowy pitch-black dropped-headlamp descent and a day up higher spire and reed's. with supertopos, great days with bluering and pal at church bowl and manure pile, and with crimpergirl at the base of el cap. perfect days, and yet i didn't climb nearly enough...
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Scooter? Pat what's happening man. All these names on supertopo I rarley know who's who. I heard from Jake that you got blow'd the f*#k up. It's good to hear your back in action. I got a new place in Bishop these days, bigger than the last. Drop me a line if you head this way.
How's Moss Landing? If you run in to neil young say hi for me. He'll have no idea who I am.
Tom
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10b4me
climber
1/2way between Yos and Moab
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making my first climbing trip to Indian Creek
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Best: Finding the first anchor for the rappel route down the backside of South Howser Tower. We had been getting pretty chilled on the Beckey-Chouinard, in cloudy/breezy conditions and without enough warm layers. We knew we didn't have enough warm gear to stop and survive the night. Once on the rap route, we were out of the wind and things felt in control again. It didn't matter that it was 1am by then. It didn't even matter much that my lead line got hung up on the second rap and we had to cut in in half. I just knew we were going to survive once we found that first rap station. We even felt comfy enough to tag the summit at that point!
Steph's TR: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/bugaboos2
Second best: getting past the pocket glacier slabs and onto the start of Slesse NE Buttress. We had been waiting for months for the pocket glacier to slide off so we could get onto that route safely. Once on it, we had all of a perfect day of weather to have fun on the route.
Steph's TR: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/slesse
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Crescent Arch.
I approached it with a sense of dread after hearing stories about it. It was the only time in '07 where I was nervous the night before about a climb.
But once I got on it, oh MAN!! I LOVED it. It was just so different than anything I'd done in Tuolumne in awhile, that it was just so invigorating. We did it in 2 1/2 pitches with a 70M rope. I had bad rope drag during the long first pitch (mainly around the rooves). But it was all good. No, great!!
Then during the underclinging on the next pitch, it was wet and mossy. And what a fun, wild traverse.
Favorite route I did in '07. The smile on my face at the end of the day was the widest I had in awhile.
Sometimes you come across a route where your memory of it will be one you look back on with a huge smile. For me, it's Crescent Arch.
PS - future edit, I'll upload the pics to share in this thread. Just gotta find the fle.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oh my gosh, how could I forget my best moment of climbing this [just past] year?!
In April, we had a lot of snow cover on the ground and it rained a lot. The rivers were swollen, so we decided to go out for our first paddle of the season. We were running an unfamiliar creek [in the summer it is only inches deep] thinking we were in the main channel, when suddenly the main channel entered. We were swept into four-foot-high haystacks, and my canoe immediately sank in the zero-degree-Celsius meltwater. I was kneeling on, not wearing, my life jacket. Suddenly I was fighting for my life in five-foot-deep five-mile-per-hour icewater! It's the closest I've come to death in a long time, possibly ever. Just before I lost consciousness, I somehow managed to climb out of the water onto the steep icy riverbank.
The canoe was stranded unreachable in the middle of the river. We went back for it the next day, and found it two miles downstream, completely destroyed. I paddled at least 10,000 miles in that canoe. {sigh}
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Jan 11, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
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From:James Mills [james@theoutdoorprofessional.com]
Subject:SNEWS® Live: Devils Tower climber Frank Sanders makes reporter's summit special
Hey there Frank,
I hope you're doing well and enjoying a terrific day. I just wanted to let you know that the story I produced on our climb this summer posted to our web site this afternoon. Give it a listen at: www.snewsnet.com
Let me know what you think.
Take care.
James
The Outdoor Professional, Inc.
James Edward Mills
Freelance Journalist/Independent Media Producer
6666 Odana Road #135 Madison, WI 53711
(608)236-0470
james@theoutdoorprofessional.com
http://www.theoutdoorprofessional.com
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crøtch
climber
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Jan 11, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
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For me, topping out on Huayna Potosi. It was my first time above 6,000m. Also, getting Test Tube at Mt. Woodson (on TR). The first time I tried it several years ago, I couldn't get more than a move or two off the ground and wrote it off as impossible. At the Woodson shindig back in the spring, Grug convinced me to give it a go and I came off within a couple of moves of the top but felt like I might vomit. Back in the fall, I went back with a buddy and sent it and didn't even taste any bile. It's nice to be reminded that I can continue to improve, even when I'm not climbing as much as I used to.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 11, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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"didn't even taste any bile."
this is where my buddies tell me I have downgrade the problem then. :)
they're just jealous
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
ghost ride the cop car
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Jan 11, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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finally going to joshua tree. the campfire the night of the 30th was the best. that night i got in my sleeping bag and cried because i'd forgotten that people could be so cool.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 11, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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That was pretty cool, Frank.
Not in 2007, but almost 30 yrs earlier Frank and I shared one of those moments (like I mentioned Roy commenting on @ SFIC.) at a bivy on the prow, looking across the way at halfdome, in the moon and starlight.
Another one with Frank in adifferent year's forgotten time (1984) was just after a dawn start on pitch six of Mescalito; one moment, it's the sun rising over halfdome, Peregrines diving, talking to us in their other worldly voices, me nursing a coffee jones, I'm belaying, Frank is exploring the Seagull... The rope pools in my lap, I yard in what I can, Frank flys into view, riding a fifty footer, "Jee-bus!"
We had some laughs about that one.
All the adventures I've had with Frank; 5 El cap routes, stacks of grade 5's, a new years day altered state ascent of figures on a landscape, FA's in Vedauwoo, Ski frolics and adventures of other sorts; I don't think we've ever climbed The Tower together, though we have run into each other on the summit more than once...
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Spencer Adkisson
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 11, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
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Coming up for air after diving in the Merced after climbing Higher Cathedral Spire, and riding our bikes down the road in the waining sunset with the rocks a-fire with alpenglow. The perfect capper to a perfect day.
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