El Gran Trono Blanco


Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 281 - 300 of total 367 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
Sep 25, 2012 - 05:42am PT
So many places I want to climb, so little time I'll have to see them all.

I remember reading about these routes in the 80s and wanted to go there then. Now I want to see them even more.


Trad climber
Jan 22, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
I've been planning a trip down to el trono for some time. Anyone care to share a topo of a good 5.8 or 5.9? Just looking for a climb to get to know the area before we go exploring!

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 28, 2013 - 01:54am PT
Baja Bump. Coming into prime climbing season.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 03:04am PT
Sent TomR plenty of camping and route beta, immediately after his post in January.

Yes, prime time is soon. Should be another 3 - 4 weeks.
Last weekend probably saw a few inches of snow.
Don't just post about it, get on down there!

For those worried about travel to Mexico, there have been zero known problems in that area during the past decade.

If anyone is looking to tick one of Beckey's "100 Favorite North American Climbs" (from his newest book), hit me up for more info. He describes The South Face Route with the "Baile del Sol" (Sundance) direct finish. Prime climbing season for the south face routes is mid-March thru mid-May.

Those steep friction routes need some action. Grade IV, 10 to 15 pitches, 5.10c to 5.11+. South Face Route + "Baile del Sol", "La Joya" (The Jewel), "El Paseo Blanco" (The White Path, named for it's steep dikes, and "El Milenio" (The Millennium).
Generally 1.5 hrs. approach time, 5-9 hrs. climbing time, 1 hr. third class descent.

The routes are on exceptional granite in an awesome setting, and they aren't getting climbed. Geez, who would think that bold climbers would be scared off by a little drug war? Seriously, the biggest problem is the border wait time when returning to the USA.

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Feb 28, 2013 - 09:24am PT
My heart is there. Every Feb., it dreams of Baja and El Gran Trono Blanco, or the hot springs at the head of that canyon.

No lie :-

^^^go through Tecate, way better than TJ.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 28, 2013 - 10:19am PT
Ah yes, the Canon Guadalupe hot springs? Prolly pretty civilized now, much debauchery 40 years ago.

Trad climber
Jul 22, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
South Face El Gran Trono Blanco 85'


Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 23, 2013 - 01:22am PT

Those are some of the best, especially the last one with the long distance background.

I've never climbed there but have wanted to since, .... ... well around 84 after Matt told me Luke had climbed there. Before that, when I surfed way south in Baja, I wish I had paid more attention to the climbing.

Trad climber
Sep 24, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
Cañon Tajo is finally in a guidebook.

You can buy it here: http://www.rockclimbing-mexico.com/

Hardcopy or pdf.

Check out this foto topo of desperado dome:

dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 24, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
From Guy.

Thanks for the bump.

EGTB always brings back good memories of exotic trips.

Not being born rich, and working at jobs to survive, I never had enouf $$$$ to go to the Alps or South America.

Goiing to Mexico, driving the Land Rover and crossing borders, get hassled by uniformed military police and cops, makes it a real adventue.

One time we were returning via San Diego, we were running late and missed the cut off time at Techate (SP?) so we were really late.
Anyway... we get to the window and the man asks: "Anything to declare?"

From the back of the van, Bulwinklle mumbles: " If we did, do you think we would tell you"

Go straight to INSPECTION.....

Tore the van apart, at like 1:30 am...

Good times"

"Most Classic" bump.
Also "what not to say" if you are smarter than....some American's.
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Sep 25, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Finally CT breaks free of the 1%.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Sep 25, 2013 - 02:59am PT
Cañon Tajo is finally in a guidebook.
Well, yes and no. There are 2 or 3 pages in that guide on Tajo/Trono Blanco. They contain numerous factual errors in the text.
The author, Oriol Anglada, was admonished to avoid violating copyrights held in the USA and Mexico, hence the limited info. Cañón del Tajo has been in a guidebook since 2004. There is a copy in Mexico City Distrito Federal and another in Washington DC, Library of Congress if you wish to view it.
The topo on Facebook was published in violation of the copyrights.

rmsusa, I ask you to please remove the link to FB, in respect for intellectual property and for preserving the wilderness/adventure at Tajo.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Sep 25, 2013 - 03:22am PT
Cool photos from BITD. I'd almost forgotten what Laguna Salada looked like with water in it. If you ever get back there for a repeat, the "Baile de Sol" direct finish to the South Face Route is superb. No zigzagging on cracks; it goes straight up on steep friction for several pitches.

dee ee,
Great story about the Tecate crossing!
Similar outcome as the time a US Customs agent was rifling through my climbing pack at Tecate. "What's in here?", he demanded, holding up my chalkbag. Being young and way to full of zest for life, I sang in my best Eric Clapton-esque voice, "CO-caine." He jumped back, unholstering his pistol. He either missed the humor of it, or didn't like the song...

Escondido, CA
Nov 3, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
Baja bump, because, well, just because!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 1, 2014 - 11:54am PT
Bump por la primavera...

Trad climber
Jun 5, 2014 - 07:38am PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 7, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
Bump for the best granite in Mexico.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Sep 7, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
Nothing new to report, so I haven't responded to bumps this year.
In this case, no news is good news. No new robberies or vehicle break-ins that I'm aware of. The Rumorosa Wind Project seems to have stalled since the initial 5 wind generators were installed near La Rumorosa a few years ago. Plans are for hundreds more to be built along the escarpment.

A Tijuana hiking club constructed and installed a huge 300 lb. steel fireplace/BBQ with legs set in concrete. It might have been appropriate to the beach in San Felipe, but certainly not Tajo's basecamp. It "disappeared" the following weekend.

Very few estadounidenses (proper for "gringos") are climbing there. Most of the climbers from Tijuana, Mexicali, and Ensenada are too busy working and rearing children. 4 million people living within 100 miles, yet the routes sit idle and waiting in this unspoiled wilderness.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Oct 23, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
Did I jinx it? Three weeks after the last report (above) there were another dozen wind generators erected in La Rumorosa.

Ranchers to the south, near Canyon Tajo, are anticipating construction to begin soon. Rents for the wind generator sites are being negotiated and money is already changing hands. The nearest ranch owner does not believe there will be installations near the crags at Canyon Tajo. However, the plateau is relatively flat with an unobstructed view. The visual pollution will alter the sense of remote wilderness.

There is also a new rumor of paving the 40 miles of dirt road between La Rumorosa and Laguna Hanson (Parque Nacional). The addition of paved roads creates rapid change and development, as seen all over Baja. Plans have been made in decades past and then dropped. Mexico has a habit of announcing grandiose public works projects and then dropping the project a few years later. Each presidential administration is one 6-year term with no re-election. Mexico is full of pet projects abandoned in various stages of design or completion. Let's hope that a paved road is one of them.

The Rumorosa Wind Project is a private enterprise. Backed by big money, incl. Sempra Energy. I'm afraid they are not going away; elections won't interfere with the outcome.

If you have thought about visiting and climbing there, make it happen soon, while it is still relatively pristine.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 23, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
Jesus John, that's f*#ked up.
Messages 281 - 300 of total 367 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews