James Lucas

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Matt Lucas

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2004 - 07:16pm PT
Hey all it was recommended by one of James' friends that I post on here to information be a little more coherent and precise.

James was climbing in joshau tree on friday (I think it was friday maybe saturday) and fell. He fell about 70 feet hit a ledge and fell another 30 to the ground. Not sure as to why he fell and or the general nature of the climb (if he was free climbing or not). He was climbing by himself. He was airlifted out of the park and to a hospital here in palm springs. He has shattered several vertebrae, his shattered bones in his left ankle, shattered his left elbow, broke his clavicle and sustained a head injury. He's alive, he has feeling/movement in his legs and sh#t. Which is good. He has several cuts and buises as well as a decent amount of swelling. He hit his head on the way down and got a concussion which caused some bleeding in the brain and a blood clot. My understanding is that that will dissipate and not cause any brain damage. Right now he's in the icu and stable. They will be putting a cast on his elbow in the next day or so and putting some rods and wires into it. It will probably be pretty stiff for a while but eventually will be relatively normal. They operated on his back already and have put sh#t loads of rods and wires into it. He will be able to walk eventually and be able to everyday type activity. Not sure if he'll ever climb again but he's a: lucky to be alive and b: lucky to not be paralyzed. There is still a chance that things will change, they're going to do a cat scan to make sure there are no bone chips floating around and what not. So yeah that's it for now. I'll post more info later.


Matt Lucas (James' twin brother)
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 22, 2004 - 07:29pm PT
Matt, thanks for the update on your brothers condition. Myself and I'm sure everyone who posts here on ST all wish him a speedy recovery and a long healthy life. You don't get to many second chances like he just got.

cheers
Pat
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 22, 2004 - 08:02pm PT
Thanks, Matt. Pass on best wishes from me to your bro.

Sincerely,
John Long
Mountain Man

Trad climber
Outer space
Dec 22, 2004 - 08:17pm PT
All our prayers go with him, for a full recovery and a life filled with joy.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley
Dec 22, 2004 - 08:24pm PT
Thanks for the update, Matt.

Tell James there's a lot of folks here pulling for him -- many of whom he's never met.

All of his forum-flames have been officially forgiven.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Dec 22, 2004 - 11:00pm PT
I just posted this on the other James thread, but wanted to make sure all involved saw it as well.

This is great news. Sounds like James is going to have a long recovery though.

I would like to take a moment and thank all the people who were first on scene. Everyone was very calm under extremely stressfull circumstances. Every effort was made to keep him as comfortable as possible. This includes telling him that help was on the way and to stay strong and hang in there.

Thank you again.
Robert Fonda
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 22, 2004 - 11:15pm PT
Sounds like James have finally surmounted the crux of it(simply surviving), barring something odd; and seeing how the Fates have short-roped him this far, I trust, and pray, they be paying out slack till our boy is good to go on his own.

Curious about how this whole business hooked me in so fast and so deeply, stranger so because I'd never even heard of James before. Perhaps because the North Overhang is part of my history, and at James' age I was doing basically the same thing at the same place; so in a sense, James is an incarnation of all the Stonemasters of old, and when one gets hurt, all feel it.

As others have said, three cheers to the heroic folks who pushed down their terror tenJames after the fall. Laying in a heap at the base of that wall is surely the lonliest position anyone can imagine, and without support from his peers, I don't like James' chances. It makes me proud to be a climber.

John
mark

climber
yosemite
Dec 22, 2004 - 11:21pm PT
Hey Matt. Best wishes to you, your bro and your family dealing with this. Last time I hung out with James was last summer. He's a solid climber and a solid friend. Dude has a smile that makes others around want to smile.

Tell him as well that Dave B., Pat and Jasmine hope he recovers quicky.

Swift recovery James. Glad your here.

Mark

Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Dec 22, 2004 - 11:40pm PT
best wishes James, and James's family
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 23, 2004 - 09:50am PT
Thanks Matt for the info. Any real climber that hears one of their fellow climbers have fallen, will fell the sorrow. I am one that doesn't know James, but his unfortunate fall feels close. Largo I thought kind of along the same lines. When I heard the story it made me think about how many times I have felt for that blind handjam 15 or so years in the past. Sometimes before coffee in the a.m. and sometimes after a couple of lucky lagers in the p.m. I feel connected to James even not knowing him personally becuase he lives the same dream as I. Best of wishes to James, and I hope his recovery is as miraculous as his survival of the fall.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Dec 23, 2004 - 11:41am PT
It is very good news to hear that James is recovering. My best wishes to him.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Dec 23, 2004 - 12:12pm PT
Best wishes James, heres to a speedy recovery.
Matt Lucas

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2004 - 03:59pm PT
James is coming out of his drug stupor today although he does have another operation on his ankle tomorrow. They'll be doing a couple different things tomorrow as well as operating on his ankle. Checking for loose bone chips being one of them. They may do more stuff with his back but I'm not sure. His pallette count is low mainly because he lost a lot of blood from his elbow. They're going to start feeding him soon which is good and he'll be getting some blood transfusions as well. He's coherent and still a little upset that he can't sit up and or get out of bed. He was pretty surly towards me the other day when I wouldn't let him up and don't be surprised if he's sort of a dick to you if you visit. Part of it is the medication, part is the head injury and part of it is that he's pretty upset. If you intend to visit him which I'm sure he'd like just tell me ahead of time. Most of the family is throughout the country and I'm trying to co-ordinate things so that someone is around for him at least every couple of days. The next week and a half or so is gonna be hard for the family to see him so if anyone wants to visit that'd be rad. you can email me at opibr@yahoo.com thanks for the kind words and what not.

matt lucas
Claude

Trad climber
Newport Beach
Dec 23, 2004 - 04:43pm PT
anyone have a picture of James?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 23, 2004 - 05:20pm PT
Perhaps someone of us So Californians can work up a calander and visiting schedule per folks in the area keeping James company whenever possible. Busted up in the hospital is no place to be on the solo. I'm off to Venezuela tomorrow till Jan. 5th so someone else will have to take the inititive.

Good cheer to all!
John
The O

Social climber
Yosemite via N.Y.
Dec 24, 2004 - 12:51pm PT
Matt...thanks for the info man...tell your bro that The O loves him and he better work his ass off to get better...it is going to be long and hard but Big Wall is up to it if anyone is...
Peace
Dragon with Matches

climber
Bamboo Grove
Dec 24, 2004 - 02:47pm PT
Count me in as another comrade who's never met James but is extremely psyched to hear good news about his progressing recovery.

I crushed two vertebrae (mid-chest level or T4/T5 if you're keeping score) fifteen years ago. Stupid stunt, foreseeable result, overtold story. I write because I want James to know that positive outcomes are possible. Although initially prognosed as paraplegic I was fortunate beyond comprehension to regain mobility after a bit of fight and have not passed a day since without reflecting how lucky I am to have a rich life full of freedom, adventure, and incredible times with incredible people. I have traveled and climbed all over the world, summered in Tuolumne, lived in Europe and Asia, learned to speak Chinese, run marathons and won an international adventure race. One morning last month after an all-nighter with my antipodean brother and too many hand-rolleds I swam in the pre-dawn light, watched the sun rise out of the Pacific and then turned around and impulsively swam up my first 5.11 free solo.

I wish with all my heart for James to have at least as much good fortune as I've been handed. There are rough roads ahead but some are golden. Stay strong and hang in there. Lots of people are pulling for you.

MR



p.s.- I hope you get hot nurses and loads of visitors. The importance of a steady supply of both cannot be overstated.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Dec 24, 2004 - 03:31pm PT
once james found and old print of galen rowell. he knew i was really close to galen before he died in a plane crash. so he sent it to me. that was super cool move and ill never forget that. fix yourself up soon, james!
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 27, 2004 - 04:11pm PT
Any updates. James has gone through about a half dozen surgeries by now and I´m wondering how he´s faring up. I trust well.

JL
BigWallcuz

Social climber
Agoura California
Dec 27, 2004 - 05:10pm PT
Saw James today - spoke, held his hand - seems to be coming out of stupor a little more. Anyone friend in area that can visit would be great - not being a climber, but reading what you all have written - I always pictured him alone out there - now I know he was not. He's a strong man and we are all just waiting. Next time I am there I will print out some of the regards sent and read them to him. He's doing a little better every day. No words can be said to the group that helped at the bottom - no words except thank you. Thank you.
Crow

climber
Dec 28, 2004 - 04:03am PT
I'm a close friend of James and was climbing with him in J. Tree about 5 days before the accident. Im still stunned by the news and have spoken with the nurses at the hospital and it seems they will take good care of him. John's idea about people going to see him would be great. I just moved back to Missouri so I can't go visit him. If I knew anyone was there just to say hi and bring him some chinese takeout I would feel very releaved. Just email his bro Matt Lucas to coordinate. But I know for sure James is the strongest man I've ever met and all of your love will deff. reach him and help him through this. Lets keep him in our prayers. David
turbo

Trad climber
santa cruz
Jan 3, 2005 - 01:49pm PT
james,
good luck throughout your recovery. let me know if there is anyhting I can do for you up here in santa cruz. hope your nurse is a hottie. stay strong.
Amee
Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Jan 4, 2005 - 01:00pm PT
James is out of ICU and can have visitors and calls. On the one hand he's doing surprisingly well, and on the other, he's still in really rough shape. The hospital is only 30 minutes from Josh, so if he's your friend it would be easy and probably appreciated if you can stop by when in the area. He was complaining that the nurses quit bringing him Odwalla (must be one of the thick ones b/c he can't have thin liquids yet!) if you want to bring a get-well offering.
Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Jan 4, 2005 - 02:13pm PT
hey mellissa can visitors come by at any reasonable hour to visit? also any recomendations on food or drink to bring him? how about a couple warm cans of snake juice........
Ammon

Big Wall climber
The Mountains
Jan 4, 2005 - 02:26pm PT

Yep, James is a strong motha...... I think most people wouldn't have made it.

I like the story my friend shared when he asked James if he wanted him to bring him anything.

James said: "Yeah, bring me females."

Ok, anyone who has met James knows he didn't say "females".
LOL, I felt obligated to censor that part.

Keep sending it James!!!

Cheers, Ammon

Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Jan 4, 2005 - 02:29pm PT
James is currently enjoying way stronger stuff than whatever snake juice probably is...

He said that he can eat or drink whatever he wants except that water and thin liquids (like soda or juice) are too hard to swallow and he might choke on them. He was eating a burger and fries yesterday, though, so he can have a lot. Seriously, though, he said that they were bringing him (thick) Odwalla and then, even though he asked for more Odwalla, they started bringing him some crappy thickened juice drink in a box. You could probably call him and ask for his favorite flavor. Maybe it's a good idea to make sure the nurses OK it, before you tease him with it though in case they quit bringing it for a medical reason.

They didn't seem to be enforcing any visiting hours. The front desk just called up to make sure that our visit was OK when we showed up pretty late.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jan 4, 2005 - 04:12pm PT
Hey, if the next visitor can ask James what he wants, and said visitor can write out a wish list on this thread, I can try and wrangle the sh#t up when I get back into the country on the 6th and drive it out to James soon thereafter.

thanks,

JL
Claude

climber
where I'll end up
Jan 4, 2005 - 08:46pm PT
anyone have a picture of James?
Crow

climber
Jan 6, 2005 - 02:11am PT
To Largo.. I spoke with James and got the idea of ordering a pizza for him and just having it sent to his room (charging my credit card of course). He said he was deff. more stoked on Pizza than chinese. But I'll call him tomorrow for more details. A package I sent him on 12/31 should be getting their real soon. So I'm sure whatever I forgot he will be craving. More info tomorrow. Thanks.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 6, 2005 - 02:15am PT
how bout a stripper dressed up as a nurse. that'd give him a nice suprise!

well...seriously, ask yourself what you'd want after surviving a 150ft fall and spending a month in the hospital...

(all apologies to James' folks if you are reading this)
Dragon with Matches

climber
Bamboo Grove
Jan 6, 2005 - 05:23am PT
A hospital visit from one of the greatest climbing storytellers of all time would certainly be near the top of many wish lists...

Largo, man, you rock.

phil

climber
eastside
Jan 6, 2005 - 07:03am PT
Great hear James is going to be ok. Is this the same James that climbs with rob miller and lived in santa cruz about a year ago? I climbed with him only once, but he's great and I wish him a speedy recovery.

thanks for anyone help on this

Phil
Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Jan 6, 2005 - 01:06pm PT
Yes, it's James from Rob's in Santa Cruz.

Hardly porn, but since it's a family hospital and all, we brought him a poster of Lisa Rands from the folks at Nomad. We grabbed him a Cosmopolitan from the lobby for chick gazing, but when we told him, he thought we brought him a cocktail (he didn't have his glasses yet and couldn't see what we had) so he was disappointed.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jan 9, 2005 - 09:06pm PT
James update:

Got up this morning and drove, or rather, swam (torrential rain here in So Cal) down to Palm Springs and visited our boy James. Probably because I know the stretch of rock over which James plunged, I expected to see him trussed up with cables and pulleys but instead found a surprisingly alert and mobile (flat on his back, but moving his limbs well), albeit busted up mountain climber that, given his 110 foot airball decker, really and truly has no business being alive.

They moved him out of ICU late last week and come Tuesday he'll be transported to the Bay Area to be closer to home and his twin bro. Luckily, his insurance will cover the astronomical medical bills, but not the transport, which will touch James for 1,800 bones. I offered to drive him up myself for a G-note, but James explained a "medical transport" requires an ambulance, a Gurney and all the fixings, an attending nurse and so forth, so my Jeep wouldn't do no how. His mom (very sweet woman) and stepdad are in from Vermont, and will hang with our boy till he bolts on Tue.

In short, James is expected to fully recover but with some disabilities, the extent of which cannot be determined till he starts serious rehab once his spine heals enough for him so start the grueling exercises. His concussion has passed and his mind seems clear. But given the various meds and the fact that he had the living daylights knocked out of him, his affect is quiet. Compounding this are breathing problems (he cannot yet fully inflate his lungs), so he can't get enough wind to talk with gusto. He's got some mobility in his powdered left elbow, which seems to be healing nicely. His ankle was pretty worked, and he'll being hiking a long trail to get good mobility back in both elbow and ankle. He broke several vertebra (C3 and C4, and others down lower I believe) and those have been stabilized with titanium rods–his main source of pain. His spine was bruised so sensation is only slowly returning to his feet, a condition that could come into play once he relearns how to walk.

In other words, James has some grievous injuries that will likely take several years to rehab, but my gut feeling is that given time, he'll be up and about with a few hopefully minor hitches in his get-e-up. His mental attitude seems positive, his determination to recover, absolute, and these alone should insure that no matter how his physical process plays out, he'll make good on the life he has left to live.

Though I had never before met James, the fall seems to have knocked the fluff off the boy, and at times he talked with insight and sensitivity about his life, including the flummery of the flaming he once did on this and other sites. It has not been lost on him that his fall has provided a chance to reassess his life and what means something in the end. Should we all have that chance . . . Unlikely sages are born on hospital beds, and James seems to have these leanings.

I swam back to LA feeling good about his possibilities.

JL
WBraun

climber
Jan 9, 2005 - 10:32pm PT
I second that, that was very nice, plus the excellent report. Those kind of things [visit and support] will do wonders for for a "downed" soul.
Ammon

Big Wall climber
The Mountains
Jan 10, 2005 - 01:07am PT

Hey John,

WOW!! I knew you were a nice guy but that's got to be one of the nicest gestures I've seen in a looooong time (no pun intended).

Thanks for the report and all the entertaining writing.

We've actually met before at the tradeshow they had in Anaheim (when the Olympics took over SL). You told me I didn't "need" the basic rockclimbing book that you were giving away. You'll be happy to hear that my son, Austin is now reading it.

Keep up the great work.

Cheers, Ammon

maculated

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Jan 10, 2005 - 01:30am PT
Great news. I'm glad he's in good spirits. Quite a miracle story all in all, eh?
Matt

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jan 10, 2005 - 01:47am PT
I offered to drive him up myself for a G-note


rock climbers are rock climbers are rock climbers
(given the chance i would have undercut you by 15 bucks)
Crow

climber
Jan 10, 2005 - 11:53pm PT
Hey you guys want to hear somethin funny?.... I sent James a package with all sorts of food, snacks, and some mags. Included in the mags was a Playboy and some Vixen mag with some really hot naked chick on the cover. Since James couldn't really cut through the tape, James' mom opened it and right on top was this month's issue of Vixen and Playboy. I talked to James and he said his mom was rather shocked and James just laughed. I laughed too.
bigwalling

climber
Jan 11, 2005 - 12:08am PT
HA, that is the funniest sh#t I have heard on this fourm in a few days!
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 12, 2005 - 12:22pm PT
Largo, you rock. Thanks for the report. If I didn't own about every last damn one of your books I'd go buy another.

I'd drive him up for $75 (which would probably mean I'd take about a $50 hit on gas alone.

Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 12, 2005 - 12:52pm PT
Crow...ya know I was just kidding about sending him some porn mags! that's freaking hilarious!!! They must have both been so embarassed...

Largo, way to represent the ST community for our boy James, thanks man.
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Jan 12, 2005 - 01:04pm PT
One of my climbing buddies cratered from about 40 feet eight years ago -- several year before I met him. His ankles exploded and he shattered four vertebrae as a result. Ken had numerous surguries on both legs and after much titanium-screw therapy he left the hospital with two marginally functional fused ankles and a long road of recovery ahead of him. He spent the first year of rehab in a wheel chair, but eventually gained enough mobility to toss that aside and gimp around on his own.

Fast forward to 2000, when I met him. Ken joined me and another climbing buddy for a day of cragging out at Queen Creek. It was the first time he'd roped up since the fall several years earlier, and at the time, I knew nothing of his accident or resulting disabilities. I was impressed that this guy -- as far as I knew, he was a first time climber -- was able to keep up with us on nearly everything we climbed that day up to 5.9. It wasn't until later that day that I learned more about Ken's history and he revealed his scared and gnarled pegs.

Ken walks on those two fused ankles with hardly a hitch and I struggle to keep up with him on even the most rugged of approaches. Dude can climb better than me most day (which isn't really saying a lot), and frankly, I often forget that he has two bum wheels. He lives life like he's forgotten, too.

Here's to people like Ken and James whose attitude and spirit in the face of adversity set an example most of the rest of us would struggle to follow. I hope James' outcome from this accident is every bit as successful as Ken's.

Ed

museman

Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
Jan 12, 2005 - 03:30pm PT
I hope James recovers well enough to climb again. I know how it feels to have a bad accident and not be able to climb anymore. I hit a freeway divide at 65mph this April damaging my spinal cord and leaving me with two paralyzed legs. Rehab is restoring lost strength in my upper body, but I will never climb or ride my mt. bike again and that saddens me beyond words.
I was in hospital for four months and I cried every day as if in mourning, greving the death of my lost legs. I've been home now for five months with my wife and two kids and without their love and support -as well as my friends, especially Tommy Thompson and Big Jay Nelson- things wouldn't be so good for me today.
Believe it or not the forum on this site with all you characters spraying back and fourth telling about all things climbing and then some have brought back my interest in the game.
Good luck James! Your friends and family will see you through these hard times.
Steve
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 12, 2005 - 03:49pm PT
dude, sorry to here about that Steve. stay strong and keep your chin up bro. glad you stick around here with us!

nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 12, 2005 - 03:50pm PT
A buddy of mine - some might know Rodman - took TWO falls that were certain to do damage.

In mexico he was putting bolts in for an anchor. He got one bolt in. He clipped the bolt and hung on it to drill the second. At some point he decided to tighten the bolt he was on. *BINK* it pops sending him for a 100 footer. A tree softened the landing (no not a Lynn Hill rip-off story). He took a branch below the jaw. Apparently whatever they did to remove said branch didn't work 100%. Months later his chin started to swell and get infected. He had a chunk of wood removed.

Soloing a 12a that tops out on crappy sandstone marbles (not meant to be topped out). A pepple pops and sends him about 45 feet into the sand snapping his ankle. As this was in a canyon with water (Winslow Wall) they had to float him out. It took many hours. His ankle is fused yet he still climbs 5.14 and humps around some huge haul bags. He takes his time but when the day is all said and done he's endured as much as anyone else w/o a peep of complaint.

It's amazing what the human body can overcome.

Moral of my story is I guess... don't be surprised one day if James goes climbing on past you - fused body and all.
David

Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
Jan 12, 2005 - 04:44pm PT
Sheesh...who was it that was recently posted a thread bemoaning the lack of a supportive climbing community? This thread is proof otherwise.
Ammon

Big Wall climber
The Mountains
Jan 12, 2005 - 05:35pm PT

Steve,

I too, am really sorry to hear about your accident. Keep up the positive attitude. I can't even begin to imagine what you have gone through.

Mike,

That's a great offer..... I'll match it.

Cheers-

Nate D

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jan 12, 2005 - 07:24pm PT
To James, Steve, and any other injured climbers lurking out there - we're glad to have you around.

You've given us much to ponder, and I'm sure we (at least I can speak for myself) are the better for it.

Continually redefine "adventure".

bkesser

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 14, 2005 - 04:54pm PT
I hurt when I read about a climber breaking their back. I broke my back in a 5-foot bouldering fall at the gym. The L1 vertebra (just below the rib-cage)shattered, and had to be fused with chips from my hip-bone to the the vertebrae above and below it. That was in August. Now it is January and I am back in the gym climbing, waiting for the doc to say its safe to go outside.

Keep the faith, James

ps Use a pad or a spotter in the gym. The shredded rubber tires in my gym broke my back, not my fall.
pighumper

climber
Marin
Jan 14, 2005 - 09:41pm PT
Best wishes to Steve and James. Largo... what a kind selfless act maybe there is hope for us humans!
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Jan 15, 2005 - 01:16pm PT
Good Luck to you, James.
Waldo

Trad climber
King City, CA
Jan 17, 2005 - 07:22pm PT
My old friend and partner Dave Gregory fell 35 feet or so off a gritstone edge nearly four years ago. He suffered injuries similar to James's. In addition, he was sixty-eight when the fall occurred. He did a great job on the rehab, though one or two problems linger. Last summer we spent a month in Tuolumne and Courtright. He took half the leads. Hang in there, James. You'll be back.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 17, 2005 - 08:26pm PT
James and Steve,

Never ever give up, or count yourself out. If I can offer any words of encouragement, just "keep on keepin' on."

My friend Tomaz Humar broke both his femurs falling down a hole in his backyard. They told him he'd never climb again, and when I read the stories of him hobbling round afterwards, I figured "they" were right.

Last I read, Tomaz was out putting up first ascents on the South Face of Aconcagua, and attempting solos on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat.

So from one busted-up wall climber to a couple others, "cheers, beers and brassieres".

Pete

P.S. I busted my ankle pretty badly this spring, and they told me I wouldn't be able to much of anything for a while. A few weeks after they removed the diastasis screw, I was back on the Big Stone. I get "unscrewed" on February 7th. Can't wait to get the rest of that hardware out of me ankle.
Gene

climber
Jan 18, 2005 - 12:13am PT
Klaus,

If you find out where James is, let me know. I emailed Matt, but haven't heard back. Does anyone know if James likes to read? I got a ton of books and would be happy to send some to our Miracle Boy if I only had an address. Anyone know his tastes in literature? I'll be in the Bay Area in a couple of weeks if he wants the company of a well-wishing stranger. If he wants to be left alone, that's fine, too.

Gene
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Jan 24, 2005 - 02:17am PT
I'm not lucky if I was, I would have landed gone to vegas won 3 grand and f*#ked a stripper while blowing lines of coke.

Anyone who can't survive a 100 foot fall is light.

to my bastard friends, come visit or call.

James
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 24, 2005 - 02:59am PT
Dude, that's exactly what happened, You're in drug rehab right now. The money you won went to the doctors.

Folks just made up the soloing story to save face. Nobody had the heart to break the news about rehab to you until now.

The good news, The strippers gave you rave reviews.

Welcome back

Peace

karl

PS. Its the heavy ones who make a mess from 100 feet.
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Jan 24, 2005 - 01:04pm PT
Hey James -- STFU!!! Ya damn cripple...

Welcome back. ;-)

Ed
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 24, 2005 - 02:18pm PT
hey tough guy, hang on a little tighter next time, eh?!
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Jan 24, 2005 - 02:31pm PT
James, I don't know you and only started posting here after your accident, but I have followed your story and recovery with great interest. I am glad that when things turned to plop, drop, fly, or die, that you chose to fly.

Good luck and best wishes for a full and speedy recovery!

Loran
Southern Man

climber
Jan 24, 2005 - 02:43pm PT
James:
Hang in there buddy, tough times don't last but tough people do!!
Clayman

Trad climber
CA
Jan 24, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
Hey James, i dont know you either man but i think were the same age (20) and i climbed in the valley a lot last spring and summer, so i could identify with you closley. Glad to hear your ok man, HANG IN THERE MAN and stay strong.
Matt

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jan 24, 2005 - 08:38pm PT
james-

next time you go off soloing, try stuffing some charmin in your shorts, that stuff is supposed to be extra soft!


hey why don't you post a mailing address, betchya some people around ST would send you some pretty classic booty.
Nibs

Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
Jan 24, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
James!
Even all us lurkers are really glad to see you back here.
F L A M E away!!
dougs510

Trad climber
Nashville, TN.
Jan 24, 2005 - 11:04pm PT
Damn man, you crossed my mind awhile back, but I just figger'd you were another lurker who went away. Anyhow, glad your still around. YEAH, your one LUCKY SOB BRO. 100 foot fall..... generally speaking, anything above 30 is fatal, at least that's the rule of the Elevator man, if it's 30, it may as well be 1000, so anyhow, take care, and positive energy your way.

Cheers and a speedy recovery,
Doug
NeverSurfaced

Trad climber
Someplace F*#ked!
Jan 24, 2005 - 11:11pm PT
James, when JL walked in your room, did you know it was him or did you think Black Flag was in town for a reunion tour?

Hurry up and recover already, we need you to help flame the flood of RC.commers back into the dark corner of the internet from whence they came.

PS- any hot nurses, or are they all 60+ years old?
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Feb 2, 2005 - 04:57pm PT
My 15 minutes gone so fast. I was barely there for it too.

I'm going to continue soloing this fall or as son as I get out. I still won't tell my mom.
Seeing John Long was rad, impressive person.
I'd like to meet Klaus eventually...can the not really crippled start a make the wiah foundation?

more flaming!
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 2, 2005 - 05:26pm PT
James! Give us an update on your condition. How goes it, and all that jazz.

Curious,

JL
Ammon

Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
Feb 2, 2005 - 10:46pm PT

Yeah James, how the hell are you?

Sorry, I didn't make it to PSprings to see you. You were gone by the time we tried to visit. What can I say.... Largo Da Man!! Didn't even know your sorry ass, and well......

Seriously though, hope you're doing well. Can't wait to hang out!!!

We want an update on your condition!!!

Cheers bro, Ammon

Loom

climber
the bathroom
Feb 2, 2005 - 11:12pm PT
James,

Good to have you back in one piece;albeit, one piece held together with titanium rods. If you ever need to make it onto a flight on time, plan on getting to the airport a little earlier now.

Scott
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Feb 3, 2005 - 11:18pm PT
An update for those interested and irrevalent information for those with too much apathy on their hands.
I'm currently at Los Gatos Community Hospital. It's been approximately 6 and 1/2 weeks since my accident on Dec 18. Not that I was countaing in bed or anything. The facility here is excellent. They are care nazis enforcing rules that I can't help but break at times. I'm in awheelchair and still require a lot of assistance. I have been standing a little -a total of 15 minutes see I'm not light. I have a bionic cast on my left arm and have to wear a neck brace to protect my cervical vertebrae?-the top ones. I have partial weight bearing on my left leg and a fair amount of nerve damage in my right-leading to foot drop and what not. I should be out of here soon. By march i'll be out of the healthcare vortex for sure and I'll be climbing this fall if I have any say. Hopefully I didn't lose too much mobility-otherwise I'll have to aid climb. Hope this post was enlightening.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 3, 2005 - 11:28pm PT
Good on ya!
Don't rush, it will come back, in it's own time to it's own degee. You're young (aren't we all?) and have enough time for a full recovery, whatever that might be.
See you in Josh
Jay
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley
Feb 4, 2005 - 02:42pm PT
Hey James, is it true that you were trying to on-sight free-solo North Overhang?

If so, may the flaming begin...
museman

Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
Feb 4, 2005 - 08:44pm PT
Nice! Sounds like your gonna recover without TOO much going on... We haven't met but I can relate to your experience. Work hard and impress us all and climb again,bro!
Steve
Biner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Feb 6, 2005 - 07:06pm PT
monkey james, just got back from overseas where i heard of your fall. stoked you're alive and healing. does nerve damage mean you won't feel as much pain cranking OW? bet your pain tolerance is way higher now. hope to see you in the Valley this spring/summer. oo oo - jean
Gnat

climber
Smell A
Feb 7, 2005 - 02:13pm PT
Hardman Knott chimes in: Hey James, is it true that you were trying to on-sight free-solo North Overhang?

If so, may the flaming begin...


Is it true that David Buchanan tried to onsight a 5.10c sport climb?
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 18, 2005 - 11:45am PT
bump...

James, how's it going these days? How's the healing process treating you?
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Mar 18, 2005 - 03:31pm PT
nature-
the healing process is going well although not as fast as I'd like it to be. I'm out of the healthcare vortex and am currently working on becoming a ladies man in Santa Cruz. I start school here soon and plan on an El Cap route sometime this summer-cause aid climbing is easy. Things are going well and I'm hoping to start free-climbing this fall, training next winter and then being back in sending shape for the spring 06 season. Until then I'm having to beat the ladies off with my walker. Thanks for the concern.

those that asked-
Oh yeah I fell onsight free soloing that route. My disclaimer though is that I had onsight free soloed another 5.9 that morning and had ons free soloed 10b in Josh the prior day. If you want to hear more spray just e-mail me. I'm happy to talk endlessly about myself.
deez nuts

Trad climber
Scottsdale
Mar 18, 2005 - 04:48pm PT
I don't mind listening to spray, I read it all the time on this site
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 18, 2005 - 06:52pm PT
10b vs 5.9

if i had to pick, i think i'd rather FS illusion dweller than N. overhang, but since i have done them both it can't be onsight, so nevermind...
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 18, 2005 - 11:04pm PT
hey flat(ulent)guy

when you can honestly say that you have spent just ONE FULL DAY climbing outside within the last calendar year, then you might have something to contribute on a climbing forum. until then, do what you do best and slide your underused pecker back in your best buddy's bum.


you, mr chubba- "i used to climb but now i am too fat" -wubba, are the HEAVYweight champ of the internet lightweights, and i think you know EXACTLY what i mean when i say that.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Mar 19, 2005 - 12:41am PT
if i had to pick, i think i'd rather FS illusion dweller than N. overhang

I would venture to opine that you have no idea of what you are talking about.



James, Glad to hear you are improving and motivated to get back climbing.
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 19, 2005 - 01:10am PT
I would venture to opine that you have no idea of what you are talking about

well, let's see-

i have done a little climbing (tho' not as much as some have)
and i have done a little soloing (tho' not as much as some have)

and as i said above, i have climbed both of those routes but not soloed either of them. so i guess you are right, i haven't soloed them, so i don't have any idea what i am talking about, but i'd still say that if i had to pick between the two, i might choose ID over NO, because i've always felt pretty secure the whole way (even if NO is a 2 move wonder).
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 19, 2005 - 10:06am PT
fellas... take the infighting to some other thread maybe? This thread is a good vibe thread for James. I don't mind the discussion but the tone (IMHO) isn't appropriate here. Heck... I'll start it for you.

cheers,
Doug
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Mar 19, 2005 - 05:55pm PT
James seems alive and (almost) kicking. And judging from his more recent posts, is pretty fiesty and not easily offended. It ain't as though he's dead and we need to show the "proper" degree of "respect."

nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 19, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
Heh... fair enough. No, he ain't dead but still, that was getting rather nasty if you ask me. Just didn't seem like the proper thread... that's all. Heck, it was worthy discussion so if nothing else it was sorta highjacking the thread and at the same time (IMO) worthy of it's own. Maybe not.

And considering how offensive he was with the Oz rebolt thread about the last damn thing I'd care about is offending some nut that cratered and will still walk :-)

Please... get nasty in the other thread. I always like a good flamefest.
jonstark

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Mar 19, 2005 - 10:08pm PT
It's all about the old adage... There are those that have fallen and there are those that will. I don't bet there are many climbers that have undertaken this sport to the level of a "lifestyle" choice that haven't gotten hurt. Sometimes it keeps me up at night to think of some of the climbing feats I have gotten away with.

That said, The encouragement of a supportive community is especially good to see.

Before all this internet stuff I took a pretty big fall on a deviation from Cheap Way to Die in JT and spent three months in a wheel chair. When I came back I was far steadier and calmer. I never regained my full strength but surpassed my previous abilities by far due to the new head.

James, You will be amazed by the way you'll feel when you get back onto stone. It's real good man. Hang in there. It's going to feel better and better for a loooong time.

Keep ST posted...
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 19, 2005 - 10:46pm PT
Mutt is always just full of BS

actually, in this case there is no room for debate, you are fat and you don't even climb, isn't that so?


thought so.


at least james has a firly legit excuse for some ass-surfing and some easy aid climbing. you are just old and soft (not that the two are always a pair, just the case in your pathetic little world, fratguy)


hey nature- nasty enough for ya?
=)
akclimber

Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
Mar 19, 2005 - 10:48pm PT
"Hey James, is it true that you were trying to on-sight free-solo North Overhang?
If so, may the flaming begin..."

I'll flame. The only reason for freesoloing NH would be to show off. That route usually has the biggest audience in JT.
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 19, 2005 - 10:49pm PT
woooot!

hey akclimber... did you snap your lower leg about two years ago on a glacier? I'm just wondering if we might know each other.
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Mar 21, 2005 - 12:05am PT
I didn't solo North Overhang to show off. It would be hard to beat Yabo's naked, nocturnal, sub 30 minute ascent. I was just trying to impress myself.

I do believe that there is a direct corelation between soloing and girls though. Mostly in terms of poor relationships.


To those that of you that are reading this damn thread remember that it's nice out right now. Skip work, shirk responsibility, go climbing. It's essential-imagine if you couldn't.
OW

Trad climber
Patagonia
Mar 21, 2005 - 09:34am PT
"The good news, The strippers gave you rave reviews. "

The bad news: they were male strippers...
Crow

climber
Mar 23, 2005 - 12:54am PT
Yo James, its Crow. I might be seeing you soon in Santa Cruz man. I might be picking up a job in the valley this summer. Glad to hear you're doing well. How was stayin at Nickie's place? Talk to you soon buddy. Peace
Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Aug 5, 2005 - 01:45am PT
let's have an update on your condition james... how goes the recovery...your fingers and slander quotient remain as nimble as ever...are you up and climbing yet or have you resorted to handicap aiding a-la Mark Wellman...
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 5, 2005 - 02:04am PT
Geez this is a tough thread...I, in my day had soloed both N Overhang and Illusion Dweller, doing both many times roped beforehand! In my current elderly state I get the shivers even thinking about it! Hope only for the best James!
James

Gym climber
A Seaside Hippy Resort
Sep 15, 2005 - 06:06pm PT
the physical part has been easy...the emotional/mental part is way harder
jeff benowitz

climber
Jan 4, 2007 - 05:25pm PT
any update on this injury?
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Jan 4, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
Jeff,

I'm doing well. Titanium rods line by lower lumbar, a plate fixes the rotation of my ankle, and my left elbow does not fully open or close. During the accident my head was split and I had a seizure, initially the damage to my occipital lobe caused double vision and a poor sense of balance. The brain damage was temporary though I do sh#t myself and forget my name everytime I walk by a microwave.

The emotional recovery took a solid year and was difficult but I got it together.

It took a year before I started to climb again. After being back on the horse, I'm able to climb as well as I could before.
Gabe

climber
San Clemente, CA
Jan 5, 2007 - 02:52am PT
Nice James! Good to hear your back to it. Yer Stand-Up aint bad neither, show the video next time you joke around again. Happy New Year Dude. Gabe
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Jan 5, 2007 - 02:59am PT
he also went from being a kinda stand-offish bolt chopping goof to a stand-up comic goof, a nice transition IMO. good on ya james. you should scan some xrays and post them up!
jeff benowitz

climber
Jan 5, 2007 - 03:55am PT
james, sounds like you are ready to join my climbing team-the march of dimes team that is, had five surgies myself the last three years, also sounds like you got better medical care than I did-which is a good thing. got a new member earlier today, charlie sassara, busted shoulder, though he perfers to call it the crawl of dimes...
was actually crutching by the day you fell, they say it is hard to climb with one leg, truth is its harder just to not climb at all...they gonna keep that metal in there? or take it out some time? done with surgieres(a word I can not spell for freudian reasons)? did you get one of those free access to all parks cards for handicap folks? Ask for one next time your enter a park- there good for life- unless your not handicapped anymore. what's better than winning a gold medal in the special olympics?
not being in the special olympics.
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
Jan 5, 2007 - 07:52am PT
James,
Nice to hear you're up and going almost like new. Man you are so blessed. You got a second lease and you're not a cripple. Be good to your self and live in the now.
Happy New Year. My your lust for life increase 3 fold. Live strong, well and healthy.
Tony
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 5, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
Keep cranking James - maybe some bouldering one of these days soon?
Cheers, JB
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Jul 25, 2018 - 07:33am PT
Nice article in today's Boulder Daily Camera by Chris Weidner about James, and his journey from surviving a fall from the top of Intersection Rock to Freerider free in a day.

Very inspiring.

http://www.dailycamera.com/recreation/ci_32029229/chris-weidner-big-falls-and-big-walls-james
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Jul 25, 2018 - 09:46am PT
Amazing story! Go James!
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