Devils Tower photo TR

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P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
Bozeman
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 12, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
At the end of September I got to go to the tower with my friends Dominic and Cody. When we arrived I noticed the Pallister brothers' rig at camp, and was greeted by Sanders while he was admiring Cody's TDI as he woke me up sleeping between the rigs.



The Pallisters started on 'Tulgeywood' while we did 'Deadpoint'. The brothers decided to go to the top while we went over and did p1 of 'El Mat' and then p1. of 'McCarthy W. Face'

s. young photo

All the while Frank shows up climbing on the "Tulgeywood" as well.

s. young photo

Then the junkshow toproping begins...

s. young photo

The next day we go over start on 'Man w/o a planet' and the 'Deli Express'

me on the deli belayed by kyler

jessica onsighting 'man w/o a planet'


the sun then came out and pushed us around the corner seeking cooler temps

Dom did the 'Mystic and the Mulchers' while the pallisters climbed 'new wave' and let me catch a ride on it too.

dom on the mystic

the next day or so its rainy so we do some slackin' and some painting for Frank



it gets nice and we go throw dom on the 'direct south west' and then give the 411 SW a tr.

then over to soler to get Cody to summit for her first time ever!


The following day we head up to climb 'spank the monkey' and to check the line out to the left of it, as Frank thinks it could be a good aid line.


turns out the line to the left will go free, at least for one pitch anyways...

cody low on the route

and just above the roof

the route gets sent the next day, and Frank offers to set me up a ride back to Bozeman (courtesy of jessica), about a week later if i want to stay and climb...since dom and cody are ready to head back today...

the pallisters are gone and so is dom and cody...

but ive got frank and jessica (his hostess) to climb with!!!

the following day i climb with some kids from colorado, they get on mytic, McCarthy N. Face (impressive attempt), and some others; while i set up a line on the teachers lounge and mini trax laps on 'new wave' and 'broken tree'

no photos ... lol

Frank finally has a day free coming up so Frank, Jess and I plan on extending his west face route 'Blotter is my Spotter' to the top. A route that he first established in 1989 solo.

here's frank's description stolen from summitpost:

Pitch 1. (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts.

Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays by Jessica Kilroy !!

Pitch 2. (165ft, A2)Aid on up the very slender crack until a belay can be arranged at the point where the rock becomes more broken. This is a Long, Fun aid pitch that requires many, many Knife Blades (30+), Lost Arrows and a few bigger pieces for the belay and occaissional pocket.

Pitch 3. (75ft, A3+/A4-,5.4)This one seems to be the CRUX of the climb. It is thin nailing, intersperced by large, rotten pods, through a couple bulges, until it is possible to free climb to a Very Solid Belay in the base of the Exit Chimney. (You need to take both Very Small & Very Large pieces on this one. Patrick recalls the pitch as going something like..."Baby Angle, #3.5 Camalot,Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, #4 Camalot,#2 Camalot, #5 Camalot(in a pile of Kitty Litter), #4 Camalot(in a similar pile), Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, RURP, RURP, RURP, Beaks, Beaks, Leeper-Z, Stopperhead, RURP, #2 Friend then unprotected 5.4 to the chimney belay" !!! Hats-Off to Patrick for a Bold and Innovative lead !!!

Pitch 4. (110ft, 5.6) Follow the Kor Chimney that is the Finish to the Saber Route (First climbed by Layton Kor & Steve "Tex" Bossier on April 26, 1964).


Frank on p2

belaying frank on p2


distance shot of the route


fs collection

example of the gear on the 3rd pitch


tipped z, rurp, and a beak...

self portrait...


the route leads directly into the saber exit the 'kor chimney'


Jessica on the exit of the chimney


back on the ground drinking some coffee at 11:30 pm


took a rest day, and then the day after belayed Jessica on yet another new line.




a very good trip to the tower indeed!
Slakkey

Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
Nov 12, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
Great Photos and nice to see someone doing a little climbing.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Nov 12, 2007 - 09:20pm PT

Rad, thanks. Great pics as always.
john hansen

climber
Nov 12, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
What kind of aiders are those?
scottydo

Social climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 12, 2007 - 10:45pm PT
That was the best post I've seen! It's posts like that, that get me psyched to get into Trad/Big Wall climbing. Keep it up man!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
Frankley, Pat, that's what it's all about!!

Thank you!!
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
Nice trip report, as usual!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
Great job!
Thanks for posting.
I have got to get to that place to climb.
Zander
Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:29pm PT
awesome! thanks.
Indianclimber

climber
Las Vegas
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:32pm PT
A Kingsbury's post is never disappointing ,you guys Rock
Seriously,Keep it up
FeelioBabar

climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:43pm PT
Always good. great stuff as usual...
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Nov 13, 2007 - 11:19am PT
Jessica is a hottie!

mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Nov 13, 2007 - 11:36am PT
Sounds (and looks) like you had a great trip to the Tower. Thanks for posting up, Pat.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
Bozeman
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2007 - 11:53am PT
john: i think they're fish aiders, 8 steps or so...franks set-up and im sold on em'!

thanks everyone for the positive feedback, and thanks tom for helping put all of this together yesterday...

and of course thanks to frank, or none of this would have happened!!!


edit: cosmic: close encounters?? i watched it at franks and he wasnt that stoked, since hes probably seen over 100 times!!!
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Nov 13, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
Yowza! Spicy aid and hot girls. Nice TR!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Nov 13, 2007 - 02:14pm PT
Good stuff brother. Feel free to use the scanner whenever...

I thought this one was pretty good even though it's not in your post:

Hardly Visible

climber
Port Angeles
Nov 13, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
Good stuff Pat, I reallygot to get out there sometime.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Nov 15, 2007 - 04:32pm PT
Bumpin' for the brother

Here's links to the new routes:

Park Politics 5.11b PG13

Late for Dinner 5.7 A2+

Blotter is my Spotter 5.7 A4-


Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 15, 2007 - 06:41pm PT
Is that the second ascent of p-1 of Blotter is my spotter?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Nov 15, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
IIRC Pat said it was the 3rd ascent...
Messages 1 - 20 of total 25 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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