Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 1, 2007 - 04:59pm PT
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Anybody got a great photo on mank? (The climbing kind.) I need a image of old 1/4" buttonheads, or similar. The more bent, rusted, and deathly looking the better. It can be in-place or something you found/pulled and made a snap of.
Thanks!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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It's the best one I have....others will have better I'm sure.
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fgw
Trad climber
portland, or
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fgw
Trad climber
portland, or
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Station from Friday the 13th. Actually the bolts weren't that bad, but the moss growing from the slings was unusual.
Bolts/stations from upper part of Greasy But Groovy
Broken zmac rivet from crux of Shakey Flakes (5.11c) - resulted in 110' fall. (Thanks in part to a sling breaking on the bolt below).
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fgw
Trad climber
portland, or
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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YIKES!!!
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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i love these threads!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Geez, I was gonna post some shots from some El Cap obscurities, but that's mostly solid granite, and you desert rats have me beat all to hell.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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makes me appreciate gunks rock all the more...
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
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These are all GREAT! Keep 'em coming! That desert stuff is scary! Makes me feel like a wuss for complaining about old Valley bolts.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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From North Quarter Dome / Pegasus:
Original YC bolt - 3/16" Star Dryvin, but well placed and not too bad. Well, maybe not great pro for an 11d crux.
Non-original belay bolt up high; poorly placed at an improper angle to the surface.
Non-original belay bolt at base of All Time Finger Crack [Nailup]. Allows use of a stance instead of sling belay from pins at the base of the crack. (Not placed by Mark and Max; they had no bolt kit when they did the onsight FFA).
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Hey FGW,one of those mank pieces looks to be on Steins Pillar up in the Ochocos. I didn't take any pictures, I was too busy laughing and shaking my head. Some of the most classic mank is on Steins
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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i thot this thread was going to be about manky routes.
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Lee Paul
Big Wall climber
Sacramento, CA
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Those look really scary, particularly the ones in sandstone, and the first one posted by fgw. That hanger looks like it's made from thin sheet metal with the vertical portion bending like that. Also the 3 bolt anchor shown in Clint's post is hosed with the bottom right bolt placed where it is, creating uneven loading. That should have been placed on level with the other two. Glad there is a program of replacing them with newer and stouter placements, which are correctly drilled and placed in the rock.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Brand new stainless steel didn't last long in this tropical climate.
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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fgw,
Upon another look, that whole first collage piece appears to be from Steins Pillar, or we have two climbs that went to different schools together!!!
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fgw
Trad climber
portland, or
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Survival,
you are right - it's the NE Face rt. on Steins. If you liked those "fixed" pieces, you would love Dod route on Turkey monster (the tinfoil hanger & the 0.3" hangerless stud are typical examples).
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fgw
Trad climber
portland, or
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Wootles - that's just plain mean.
We have pretty much all of the above pasted on Beacon somewhere or another. Though I will say, some of those split-shank buttonhead jobs were way burlier than the hangers that you usually find on them.
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jbur
Trad climber
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Some of the only mank that I have on film.
Part of an unused anchor on "Cat in the Hat" Red Rocks.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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I've pulled a bunch of bolts in my day and by far, the hardest to get out of the holes with the old split-nail button heads. The threaded split-nails would always pop the threaded part off leaving the stud in the rock. Everything else is easy by comparison.
Nice mank wootles! Ouch.
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Flex
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Here's a few to add to the fray
Cochise Stronghold
Dolomites
El Cap
A couple from Lizard Head, CO. Remember this is right up there with the WORST rock you have ever seen.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Top of Bridwell Bolts at the Pinns:
Something else:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 10, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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Mank bump
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2014 - 03:03am PT
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^^^^
I had a girl tell me that once.
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MisterE
climber
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Mar 10, 2014 - 09:55am PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 10, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
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Correction to my 2007 post:
The 110' fall went that far, not because the sling on the lower bolt broke, but because the rope end biner on that sling broke.
The correction is from Greg Barnes, who still has the broken biner in the ASCA collection!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 10, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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K-man, where is that 2nd pic bolt at?
That's a beeeyoooty!
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| Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
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