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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Bump for some really great photos.
Bill - thanks for writing the captions, as it adds a lot to the post.
I think if you edit the post to put all of the photos in order, it will really add a lot! It's hard to follow what's where. I know, it's a lot of work, but I hope you will...
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Mar 19, 2008 - 03:03am PT
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NAAA HHHAAA AAAAA IIICEEEE
AAAAAARRRGGGHHHHH
OOOOOH
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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No Obama here...
Just rad climbing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 11:10am PT
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Harrr! There be no use fer politickin' on the high seas. Hang em from the yardarm maties, sez I! Bump
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 25, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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RE:
"pretty run hooks and reamer finish to get to the anchor. "
I can't imagine what a "reamer" finish might consist of...(?)
can you please clarify?
LOL!
Great thread, awesome climb.
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Sep 25, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
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"The Seven Seas pitch, an A2 beauty that bore the signs of some recent free climbing attempts( ie- chalked tick marks at key holds & gear placements. There was also a modern sport anchor above with a line of bolts entering & exiting some steep, wild looking rock."
The chalk is probably from Tommy Caldwell's and Justen Sjong's ascent of the "Free Magic Mushroom". They referred to it as the Seven C's because they protected it with the new C3 cams from BD. Don't know about the sport anchor. I'm pretty sure Tommy said he didn't add bolts but he wasn't the first to recon the route for free climbing potential.
Thanks for the TR
-Justin
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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No doubt it was from the attempts to free Magic Mushroom last year. That T.R. was from 2007 and on this year's trip, Son Of Heart, I could see more chalk tick marks & such. I do believe that the 7 seas pitch is one of the cruxes, at 5.13D/5.14A.
I saw some marks which were just a simple tick mark & others that were shaped like an arrow, pointing to key gear placements, I believe but that is just my guess.
Is it OK for climbers to mark the rock to provide key beta for crux sections? The Huber brothers had marks on El Nino indicatiing what gear went where, etc. The roof atop the Son Of Heart corners had a bunch ot tick marks too. It's a 5.13B undercling pitch and looks very difficult but how far should one go to free climb a pitch? Are chalk marks OK but painted ones not?
Just wondering.
Bill
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 12:59pm PT
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The Seven Seas are the seven C's are the seven little ceilings on the pitch as originally named. Great pitch that took only one hammered placement on the FA, my lead.
Thou shalt not trash the place- werd!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 26, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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Sweet bump,
Great TR.
Zander
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Double D
climber
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:37am PT
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Looks like a beautiful route...great photos!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
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Sep 27, 2008 - 01:43am PT
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Just gotta man up, sometimes.....
or something.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2009 - 03:15am PT
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Bumpety bump. One more post and we'll be at 100.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Feb 25, 2009 - 03:38am PT
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Missed this the first time around. BAD ASS.
EE and friends are the true long term badasses of big walling. Up there with Bridwell for shure.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Capo Beach
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Feb 25, 2009 - 03:40am PT
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BADDASS PHOTOS! Thanks for sharing... brings back so many SWEET memories. Cheers!
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 25, 2009 - 10:42am PT
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love those big wall tr's- you guys are badass
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 22, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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!!!!!!1111
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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More Golden Stone!!!
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Aug 29, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
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Levy, you & E sure get it done!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 28, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
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I just finished writing an account of the FA for a Stonemaster project. Now it's time to raid the slide box for images that nobody has seen outside of Tucson!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Oct 29, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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BRING IT
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!