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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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I'm just going to listen to Ed, from now on. Ed, Jaybro, etc... Those guys know what's up with the wide.
I'm really bummed that I blew my onsight of Pratt's, mainly due to not listening to Ed's beta for the gear. Ed said, "I remember nothing smaller than a #4.5 old Camelot...". I wasn't able to borrow the two #6's I was sure I'd need, but I thought, what the f*#k, I'm going to go check it out anyhow.
So, off I went with a #4.5 and #5 BD camelot and my 2 #9 Valley Giants. I also had an assortment of smaller gear, as I'd read, in several places, that there were placements for smaller gear in the back of the crack and on the walls, outside of the crack.
At the half way point, I'd spaced my gear out about 20' each - placed the #9's, slung a chock stone I could *easily* remove and, when slung, with either the hitch facing the front or the back of the stone, a tug would start to flip the chock out of it's "placement". No way it was holding a fall.
From there, I was pushing the #5 BD in front of me, until I reached a point where it would no longer fit. At that point, there was a jumble of stones in the crack with a couple of slings and a cordalette, all of which were rotting and I doubted would hold a fall, coupled with a quick-link. Not really confidence inspiring. I stood there, on my heal-toe cam, looking up. The crack got slightly steeper and there was no hope of any small gear, at all (as was the case for the whole first half of the climb). I'd used the only wide pieces I'd brought and the next chock was 20' up (maybe 15' at the least). Not to mention I'd carried the extra (dead) weight of the smaller gear up, for no good reason.
After standing there for 10 minutes or so, debating, I made the call to come down. I was *really* bummed about it. If I'd have had the two #6's that I'd been told I'd needed, I'd have bagged and tagged the thing.
The thing I couldn't see, from inside the crack is that about 5 feet out of my reach (and vision, apparently) there is a bomber-looking small ledge I could have put both feet on. Looks really good when you get back out from the climb. Had I have seen it, I would have pulled up to it. From there, the chockstone was really close, and I'm certain I'd have gone to it. At that height, I'd have been tons more inclined to continue. As it was, I was sure if I pitched, I was headed for the ground and it was along ways to that chock! Wish I could have seen that stance!
On the up-side... This was my first real OW/wide lead (free). I'd aided up some wider pitches on walls and followed my partner on tons of stuff and, of course, we'd TR'd the normal things. I felt totally relaxed, was moving well and really just cruising. At any point of the climb, I was able to completely release both hands to hang out, show my partner the loose chock stone, place gear and slings, etc. I was never working, at all, really. I was super psyched about this. Bummed I ran out of gear to finish. So, on the list for this weekend is the purchase of my very #6's and the send of the climb. Even if it's not onsight, I'm still psyched.
Pratt's is beautiful, btw! I was a little surprised when we walked up to it, at first. I thought it was pretty much dead-vertical. It is actually less than vertical on the wall facing you in most pics. The first 20' has plenty of stuff on the corner of the wall to stand/palm on. Even some holds inside. Really mellow. Once it gets slightly steeper and the holds start to go away, it's just awesome. There is zero munge in it, as someone said I'd encounter.
Looks like I'm *really* hooked on the wide now! Yikes!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2007 - 02:16pm PT
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Hey Neff....
Last time I did Pratts it was for a photo shoot of some ghey OW pants that Patagonia was trying to run up the flagpole... anyway.... we needed a couple of props and I cut some locust logs from the tree in the yard and bartacked slings onto them. The logs were 9.5" and 10.25" long and the 10.25" fit perfectly. I used the chock stones and maybe a nut or something between some chockstones, and then finally the time came to use the logs. Bomber! I beat one log in with the other one.... locust is a really dense wood, and heavy, and would for sure hold falls. I left the log in there as a joke piece and figured it would be there for years.... but..... some sad rappellers were coming down from some nearby route and thought the log was a BigBro and swung over and snagged it.... It lasted ONE DAY! At least one of them used to post here.... I think the log is on his mantel shelf now.
Anyway.... really big pro is needed or that thing is way run out.... way.... just clipping the tat and going makes for some exciting moments at times. Get yourself some logs and try it again!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Hey Nef.
I learned that Ed and Jay and Gary know their stuff. Scuff as well.
After practicing alot on plywood, I started going outside to offwidths. Got my azz kicked alot. I mean alot. Kind of sick to think my last three outings have all had 5.9 OW or higher or squeeze chimney or both on every day! I am still not solid on trying to lead stuff, even though the brain is starting to remember the moves.
Some stuff I can now fire on TR, but I vapor lock on lead. Still struggling with the wide gear thinking and such. Hang in there and dont beat yourself up too much. The crack will do that for you.
Gary's setting up the plywood monster for Sacherer width this week. Oh the pain. After I run laps on it I will have no excuse to avoid Sacherer Cracker.
Steve
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Glaidig
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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This is John about to enter the squeeze on the Left Side of the Cookie.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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hahaha! KickAss™ story, Russ! I loved it! So, maybe I'll track down some logs and save myself a couple hundred bucks! hah! Locust, huh... Never heard of that, but I'm sure I can come up with some oak or other hard-wood logs!
Regardless, it's going down this weekend, one way or another. Way run out or not! Even though I know it was the "smart" move, I've been kicking myself in the ass for not blasting off and just hitting the top. I was cruising the thing. I wonder what my (new) partner would think if I showed up with exactly the same gear and said, "It's going anyway!" Probably best not to crater in front of your new partners, eh? hahaha
Steve -- "Hang in there and dont beat yourself up too much. The crack will do that for you."
hahaha. That about sums it up most times! I'm not that bent about it, really. I'm certain I'll send it this weekend.
We may be doing Sacherer this weekend, as well. Saturday in the Valley, Sunday at Pine Creek!
Who'da thunk that someday I'd gain a love for the wide? Crazy, mang!
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Wide to fists to wide, all out a roof. Only me and about 50 other hillbillies actually know where it is, though it's not that tough to find. Done by one guy during Reagan, still waiting on a second. 12d or 13a, come and get it. This little bouldery thing on the right is nearby, not much of it but a nasty flare:
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Pine Creek appeared to have a number of cool looking flares and OWs. Cool stuff there! Anyone here done the heinous looking thing around the corner from Sheila (which is around the corner from Pratt's)? That thing looked cool! I'm unable to find a guide for the area. Pine Creek isn't in the Mammoth Area Guide and Wilson's didn't have the Bishop Area Guide.
Anyone done the OW or the fist in the cave at The Sads? The fall would be bad if you popped out, as your back is facing a sharp edge/boulder top that is about 3' behind you. Looked cool though.
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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JA looking for love in all the wrong places:
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Nov 12, 2007 - 07:26pm PT
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Cooper on a Vision Quest
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Park City, UT
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Nov 12, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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This is on a new route a friend and I did in the boonies in Utah. We didn't free it, but it would go and would be hard and dirty. 9-12" cams are required for the start, and we put a few bolts in on the 16" small roof crack. Hasn't seen a second ascent as far as I know.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Nov 12, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
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Exiting another JTree man eater.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 12, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
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Hey Russ, what's the roof offwidth in Steve's Canyon just to the right of the 5.9 crack? I need to sick Nef and Blaine on it over Thanksgiving.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Nov 13, 2007 - 07:08am PT
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Comfortably numb
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Nov 13, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
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Grrr.....!
SO. When I left on Friday, the forecast was for rain Saturday night from Midnight until 4am-ish. Partly cloudy on Sunday, then rain Sunday night and all day Monday...
The reality was that I camped at the base of Pratt's, Saturday night, to wake up at 3am to the sound of rain, which never stopped - ALL DAY SUNDAY!!!! Unfortunately, I had to work on Monday, which was as beautiful as could be. So, Pratt's continues to elude!
Comfortably numb is on the list, G_Gnome! I'm hoping to get to see some hard work/spitting out of/flailage from Blaine on that one! It's his turn for a change!
We went to Badass Momma on Saturday. (I have the bruises to prove it!) I managed to eek out one inversion - kind of. Funny how the leverage on the calf cam changes as you go from hanging on it to pulling your body up on it! hahaha I gave it a few goes and by the end, it seemed to be making more sense. Maybe in a couple more visits on TR.
Blaine gave it a go on lead. He didn't quite get it this time, but I think his next go he will. He cruised it on TR once and worked hard (`bout time!) to send the second. Cool way to spend a morning!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 13, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
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Shots of the pro (Fish) on Comfortably Numb, Steve Canyon, Josh
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nov 14, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 14, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
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Holy Shite!!!
I just scanned this thread...
I've seen crazy manifest itself in many forms...
Some obsess over the light switch...
Others eat their own snot....
Still, others force their bodies into cracks not meant to be traveled... And live to tell about it!
Thanks for the inspiration people. Love the photos.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 15, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
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Haha! I like how carefully you worded that: "shots of the Fish on the route", not 'shots of the Fish doing the route"!
The closest I ever came to being cut in half was belaying Charles Cole from the top on that thing. At 115 pounds I just did not have what it took to belay 205 pounds hanging in air over and over and over and over (on a hip belay!).
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nov 17, 2007 - 08:02am PT
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Jaybro Memorial Bathang™™™™
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