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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 24, 2007 - 02:08pm PT
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Would love to see more of your stuff Don.
Catherine looks so young there, what a strong woman!
The B&W of Timson upthread is great.
FYI:
I just went to your link, right-clicked on your photo, saved it on my hard drive, doctored it up a tad in Photoshop and up-loaded into my photo bucket.
Shazam!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 24, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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And not to get all nitpicky,
Yet, as I am a bit of a boot guy (nerd),
It looks to me like Catherine is running the retrofit EB's on Ahab, with leather patches on the blue cotton ankle portion.
You can just make out the tan leather up by the toe.
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mastadon
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Oct 24, 2007 - 02:16pm PT
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You very well may be correct (about the shoes).
I'm at work right now and couldn't remember my photobucket password.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 24, 2007 - 03:03pm PT
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No offense to Rene, but RD's were always at the bottom end of the performance list below PA's and RR's. I never knew anybody that liked them.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 24, 2007 - 05:10pm PT
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You can get a 6-7" cam in Ahab a few feet back from the lip at head level while standing on the spike before starting the initial chimney and push it a ways. A 6 Friend works great, a old #5 green camalot is tipped out right away and can't be pushed...but it will hold a fall, it's been tested...recently.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 25, 2007 - 12:13am PT
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Duuudz, Big Duuudz. Or maybe one of these goodies...
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Oct 25, 2007 - 12:20am PT
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This thread makes me want to throw up.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 25, 2007 - 12:43am PT
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Oct 25, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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RE:
" This thread makes me want to throw up."
me too, it's sick
(great pics tho)
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Oct 25, 2007 - 01:18am PT
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Steve,
Both John Gill and I really liked RDs for a long time. I used them a lot in the Valley and found they edged very well and were decent in off-width. I actually liked Spiders better, because they are/were stiffer, for the heel-toe stuff, but I did some pretty hard bouldering in Camp 4 on tiny footholds in RDs. They were all the rage in the east for a time. I think Rich Goldstone may have gotten me hooked on them way back in 1965 or '66. In my opinion and experience they were vastly superior to PA's. I hated PA's because you couldn't edge on anything. They would simply roll off. But they (PA's) weren't bad for smearing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 25, 2007 - 11:25am PT
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I really wanted to buy a pair because they were so beautifully made but they just never caught on in Tucson and I happily edged away in my Robbins boots until Ellis Bringham's Ego Boosters came along and contact feel became the driving criteria for footwear. The lone exception was a pair of Masters made by the House of Hawkins in England. I bought them in Boulder about 1973 and loved them to death. Still my sentimental favorite and designed by Ron Fawcett. The thinnest toe profile imaginable seemed to always fit easily where my fingers would.
Jaybro- Your Fren iz so Beeeeeg!! Who says you can't protect Texas Flake? LOL
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Oct 25, 2007 - 05:09pm PT
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PAs and RDs had comparable stiffness and used the same rubber.
They fit differently, the RDs being narrower in the toe.
Sounds like Pat must have had an RD foot shape.
I could edge on holds I could barely see in my PAs. I have never
used a shoe that beat them at edging.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Oct 26, 2007 - 02:32am PT
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Here is a picture of me on Ahab using some classic off size technique. I used RDs in my early days. They edged great but the rubber was pretty slick...
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Oct 26, 2007 - 02:45am PT
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I'm sorry. I'm losing my mind, I guess. I said PA's rolled off edges. Not so. I was momentarily confusing PA's with those soft things that had the bluish-white tops that were all the rage for a short time. My brain must be tired, because I can't even think of the name of those at the moment. Someone help me. You all know what shoe I'm talking about.
One of the best shoes I ever used were Patrick Edlinger's brand. When I was in England, he somehow got word I was looking for his shoe, and the next thing I knew someone brought me a gift of a pair, from Patrick. In Steve's words, I loved them to death. They were great.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:05am PT
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Nice straight in shot Mark!
EB's Pat?
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mastadon
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Oct 26, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
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Nice picture Mark. Makes my palms sweat just looking at it.
RD's had soles that seemed like they were made of teflon. They were narrow and hurt a lot to make up for it.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:29am PT
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Yeah, EBs.
There were two kinds of RDs. The original ones were really good. I think they sold out pretty quick. A few of us were lucky to get a pair. Then came another much more mainstream release (more widely distributed) of supposedly the same shoe, but it was not at all as good, harder and more slippery rubber. I don't know why they changed. Perhaps the rubber business was a bit of a random thing, or such, varying greatly from run to run. Who knows? Maybe they tried a different rubber, thinking it wouldn't make that much difference. But those who got the second version hated them and couldn't understand why I and others liked them (not knowing we had used a very different earlier version).
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:34am PT
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I led Ahab the first time I did it, in 1967, and didn't have trouble. Then a while later I followed it one day with Peter Haan. He was in remarkable shape and went up it like nothing. He is a pretty solid and muscular guy and, I'm sure, didn't fit in snugly the way some of us thinner guys (back then) did. So it might well have been a grade harder for him, but he went up it as though he were on some play thing. When he soloed the Salathe Wall, he free climbed the last crux crack (I think they call it the Pratt Crack?). That would have been a pretty significant lead, solo self-belayed, back then. Peter and I then walked up along the base of El Cap and did Peter Pan, some crack up there that seemed not the easiest thing...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:35am PT
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Out of curiousity, what did Bob Kamps climb in once he left a welted boot for something more modern?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 27, 2007 - 10:14am PT
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Kamps, in the late 70's would boulder at Stony Point in a shoe I'd never seen before or since, a PA sort of thing, blue with some red accents. Someone, maybe scuffy b, may have mentioned the brand here on the forum.
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