johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2007 - 07:22pm PT
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Today (Monday) Alex Climbed the Salathe with no falls. He started at the bottom and went to the top in one push. He combined the three pitches from Sous le Toit ledge to the top of the Roof and also combined the next two pitches (the headwall cracks) from the top of the Roof to Long Ledge. He did the Monster Offwidth pitch. Alex led all the pitches. The way we did the climb was by spending a day hiking bivy gear up the East Ledges and rapping down to the Block on the Salathe. We then started at the bottom of the Salathe and Alex led all pitches to the Block. We then rested a day on the block using our previously stashed bivy gear and then climbed the remainder of the route the next day.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:04pm PT
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Rad!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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frigin great job!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:29pm PT
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That's how you do it.
Walk to the base, rack up, climb upward and skip the sling belays on the way to the top.
Hadda' happen one day; pretty dern cool.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Oct 15, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
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The first Redpoint of the Salathe?
Bad....
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jghedge
climber
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Oct 15, 2007 - 09:48pm PT
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Wouldn't be the first redpoint, but the first no-falls ascent...
Please tell me he didn't onsight the Headwall...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 15, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
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Awesome! Good, positive news, I love it. Congratulations Alex!
Ken
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Oct 15, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
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Alex worked the headwall pitches and he's been getting El Cap fit. A week prior he followed Jake Whittaker on a 13 hour free ascent of the Freerider. Honnold carried a huge pack, running support for Jake, and pulling through on some of the harder pitches- jugging the monster offwidth, but freeing the 12b enduro pitch with a pack on.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:41pm PT
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Congrats, Alex Hone-ed!
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
this space for rent
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
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balla, damn.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
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A dream to aspire to......
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
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Congratulations Alex on your bad ass ascent. F*cking inspiring!
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Degaine
climber
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Oct 16, 2007 - 12:04am PT
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Nice work, Alex!
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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Oct 16, 2007 - 12:14am PT
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"The first Redpoint of the Salathe?
Bad..."
was it in fact the 1st send in that style?
(i.e. combining those pitches and from the dirt to the rim in one push, all pitches led w/ no falls)
if so, considering the list of climbers who have projected that climb, that would be perhaps even more impressive than the astroman/rostrum scramble.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Oct 16, 2007 - 07:24am PT
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Yo, who else redpointed it?
A multi-pitch redpoint means one leader leads the entire route and never falls.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
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Oct 16, 2007 - 07:31am PT
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So, when is he planning to walk on water??
Congrats, hell of an achievement!
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Oct 16, 2007 - 07:51am PT
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Wow, that is very impressive. Turning such a large route into a day at the crags ;)
"Yo, who else redpointed it?
A multi-pitch redpoint means one leader leads the entire route and never falls."
I think it depends on the detailed definition of a "red point". Tommy Caldwell and Yuji Hirayama are I believe the only two other climbers to do the entire climb ground up in a day with no falls on the entire route.
Now if you consider a redpoint leading all pitches individually without a fall but falls on some pitches but redone and over multiple days then both Alex and Thomas Huber have redpoints. Yuji Hirayama did it in 2 days his first try and flashed most of it and Tommy Caldwell did it in two days his first try. I know a few others have done all the pitches free but I think they rappelled in for some pitches or did things out of order.
To everyone that did all the pitches that free it's a cool feat and amazing. Personally I don't care much about the "redpoint" or "pinkpoint" garbage. It obviously means something to be able to say you went ground up to the top without a single fall leading all pitches but it also depends on your vantage point. If the goal was to get all pitches free and some pitches took you 10 attempts on the way up I'd still give you mad props for doing someting so cool.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 16, 2007 - 08:06am PT
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Pretty darn unbelievable -- Big PROPS to Alex!
And Yes, I believe that a true Redpoint does mean no falls, bottom to top. Climbing it free in a push is still sicko good style, but no falls and no hangs at belays, that's just one step from Flash.
And I don't think anybody's even attempted a true onsight.
Just curious, there's a few variations on the original Salathe route, right? I mean, does anybody do the actual route pioneered by Robbins, Frost, and Pratt?
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Caddy
climber
DC
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Oct 16, 2007 - 09:10am PT
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Congratulations to Alex Honnold and to John Robinson for being the encouragement that has helped many climbers like Alex and I reach their potential.
Great job!
Curt "Caddy" Taras
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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Oct 16, 2007 - 09:44am PT
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Monster offwidth is not part of the Salathe. As far as I know, only 3 people have climbed the 13b crack to its right on the original line, and that's Skinner, Piana, and Herson. Great work, Alex.
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