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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 10, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
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New Dimensions is all time 11a.
JL
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 11, 2007 - 12:45am PT
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Sorry, Soul Sacrifice is rated .11c, lame attempt at a joke.
Anybody make the hike up to Essence, two pitches of .11b?
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2007 - 12:52am PT
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Nobody mentioned "Demon's Delight" at Shultz Ridge - This line looks very cool and intimidating from below. Is It like hard version of Crescent Arch? Can it be well protected for both leader and follower ?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 11, 2007 - 01:19am PT
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IIRC there's one called Free Bong w/ fixed bong at the top at S. Ridge too...but's it's not really in the category of New D. or the 10d fingers circuit.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 11, 2007 - 01:22am PT
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Essence
I did .....
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
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My partner stu polack and I hiked up to essence and found it to be a great climb. mind you the trek up was another story.....
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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Demon's Delight on Schultz's Ridge. An oscure classic!!!
Edit; the gear is reasonable for both climbers. Very short approach too.
Bachar Mood Rating alert!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
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while not 11a, what a great pic of fs of butterballs. it looks like kauk but not sure. I led this climb a bunch but would never have the balls to fs the dang thing. thank god I am too old to even think of it now.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:49pm PT
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while not 11a, what a great pic of fs of butterballs. it looks like kauk but not sure. I led this climb a bunch but would never have the balls to fs the dang thing. thank god I am too old to even think of it now.
I don't think Kauk ever soled that thing. That is a pic of Peter Croft. He did a bit of soloing in his day.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:50pm PT
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It's Croft.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
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ah, good call. what a pic.
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L
climber
A Big Puddle on the Coast of CA
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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Awesome photo...it's making my palms sweat just looking at it...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 28, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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Nice shots JB. New D was my first 11a lead in the Valley long ago and it added an extra dimension to know that it went without a rope. The first Valley 11a that I ever followed was low on the West Face of Sentinel, second or third pitch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
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The pitch in front of these guys is pretty sweet!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Hey JB, I love (and hate) those two soloing images and particularly you on New Dimensions.
They bring back some old nightmare I've had repeatedly, where I suddenly find myself free-soloing an insecure 5.11 finger crack way the hell off the deck. Talk about cold sweats!
I'm sure glad I woke up in my bed (and you and Croft survived the solos).
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Walleye, thanks for putting up that link about Schultz - I never saw that one (and I posted Mark's photo as well)...
They used to rate this one 10d for a while...
Photo: Phil Bard
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WBraun
climber
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John Bachar soloing after 6 ?
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coondogger
Trad climber
NH
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:TIdeline, LordCaffeine, Black Angel, Bombs over Tokyo-5stars 10d-11a
Hardd, Little Wing, first 2 on moratorium at 10d, the tube, maddogasscrack(loose)
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