Another Facelift TR (lots and lots of photos)


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Social climber
St. Looney
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 3, 2007 - 10:01pm PT
Another Facelift Recap…

I arrived from STL on Thursday mid afternoon to find Yellow Pines campground empty except for Crowley and his crew of youngins’. I claimed my perfect little spot in the campground. It was gorgeous and I understand one would describe it as “duff”. Lots of pine needles. I couldn’t believe no one had snagged it already. Later I would run away from this spot like a big chicken.

Several tacos and other face-lifters started showing up later and
a night of fun around the camp fire ensued.

Here is Pennsylenvy showing us his latest trick.

Lots of slander going on here…

Pennsylenvy tries a different approach to befriending the drum – beating the life out of it.

Here Karl Baba and Andy make some music.

It is no lie that the music we had all weekend was really terrific. Andy is a really talented singer and song writer. My favorite tune was titled something like “Curry Village Runs”.

The next morning, Ed Hartouni and I headed to Facelift central. We first stopped by the Deli where we met Werner. We headed over to meet Ken and got set up. You can see our newest taco here – the poop bag lady. Heh heh!

Sergeant Mighty Hiker was alert and ready to rumble.

I must say that the trash-grabbers were super cool!

Here comes Jstan with his tools. I am willing to throw down money that NO ONE worked as hard picking up trash as did Jstan. He was a MACHINE. No joke. (sorry for the blurry photo).

I was psyched to meet Jstan finally as I’d heard of him and his climbing (especially at Seneca Rocks) since I’d started climbing.
We were a team of six – Ed Hartouni, Jstan, Hollywood Charles, Jason, Leo and I. Here is a photo of Team Twisted. We were working 120 from the entrance gate toward the valley.

Look for Hollywood Charles on the CBS special. They interviewed him for this show.

I had rented an SUV so we all piled it for the trek to the entrance gate. Hollywood Charles got the “fun” seat.

So, you ever wonder what your friendly neighborhood Nuclear Physicist does for fun on the weekend?
Given we were working in an area with a lot of construction, the traffic wasn’t too terrifying.

Here was my proudest find. Like a mighty fisherman reeling in the big one, it took Ed and me to haul this beauty up a steep embankment where it had been resting 30’ from the roadside.
The dang tube hadn’t even broken. I was proud of this catch – but after seeing some of the other debris it was clear it wasn’t a contender.

I believe this is just some of the heavy stuff after day three. Crazy amount of garbage was collected.

(I could make the obvious joke about underlying theme here. That is, what does Ph.D. stand for? Piled high and deeper. Hardy har har).

I found one section of the road that really intrigued me. The garbage I hauled up was really really old. It seemed as though at one point in time a truck had plunged off the embankment leaving behind magnetic door signs, a broken thermos and this hub cab. What the heck kind of car does this logo go to? I can’t remember and it’s driving me mad!

That night, the campfire was even more fun as several more tacos arrived given it was Friday night. Here are a variety of around-the-campfire shots.

Mister E and Ed:

A taco salad:

Taco supreme:

Muskrat Love:

Crowley and Murcy:

Nature and Pennsylenvy:

Mystery Nita and Khanom:

Bluering getting CrAzY!
(he’s gonna be a dad!)

Nature reading his new shirt from Fatty …. “HSUB” What?

Murcy and me:

Fatty and Nature. Fatty was so generous with the gifts and hospitality. Not only did he dress nature with the HSUB shirt, he gave him this kookie sushi shirt too. Pretty cool!

Fatty also showed with cases of wine and a birthday cake for me. It was really super sweet. Plus, everyone signed a card. I was so touched – what a birthday. Spending it with all my friends (okay, my only friends) in Yosemite, on a beautiful night by a campfire with wine - What more could anyone ask for? Yummy chocolate cake!

Here is the Doctor pissing off someone. At least it looks that way!

The next morning, Ed H and I got up early and headed out. Our plan for my b’day was to hit Commitment and Nutcracker. He warned the chances were slim they’d be free.

Amazingly, Commitment was totally devoid of people. One soloer came by, but besides him, no one was to be seen on this climb.

As Ed was setting up this belay, I took the photo wondering “wonder what that roof is called?” I found out shortly what a perfectly named climb this was.

I added about 50’ additional feet to the climb by continuously up- and down-climbing at the committing move. Crazy and such fun!

On our way out, we ran into yet another taco – Ablegable.

I’d not realized I have no photos of Nutcracker at all. We were not so lucky with the crowd situation there. There were parties all over the place. Still, we did the thing and met a lot of fun folks in doing so. I have almost no memory of the mantel up top. I believe my body shunted all blood out of my eyeball and brain to whatever body parts were needed to get over the thing. One thing I am certain about is that throwing one’s right leg up and over the thing first is NOT a great idea. Clearly it can be done that way though. Lucky I didn’t pop a vessel during this move!

Back at the campfire, fun was already starting. Andy et al were jamming.

More slander:

The next morning was the pancake breakfast. It was delicious. No photos of that though. Instead, here is the coolest photo. I will call it “Can O’ Bacon Grease Tossed In the Fire”. No one was seriously hurt in the taking of this photo.

After breakfast, Murcy and I headed up to El Cap to play. We ran into T2. Nice to meet him after hearing of him for years. (no photos).

We wandered up to Pine Line. Not a soul was there. We flipped a beer top and I won so I got to lead. Again no photos of this. I felt good on this though it was my first time ever placing gear in pin scars. Weird. I was pleased with my climb. I have several photos of Murcy following. Unfortunately they are all focused perfectly on my shoe and he and everything below it is out of focus. I suck as a photographer.

Here he is rapping down though. Nice shot.

Next up, we walked past several climbs packed with folks. We ended up at Little John Right. Only one party was on this climb. That it was not packed should have been a warning to us. It was Murcy’s lead.

He wrestled with and conquered this beast. I followed and it didn’t take long to realize the extent to which I had won the earlier beer top toss. I would have imploded had I been leading this wretched climb. I announced at the top that this is the sort of climb someone should take a mate they want to break up with. A horror show. It has to have been my worst performance on any climb ever and it found it’s way on my “Never Again” list. Bleck.

What is it about the Valley 5.8s?

We walked up further hoping to get on several things – all full. We ended up at La Cosita Right and Left. Though I’d just been on them two weeks before, Murcy hadn’t. Given the traffic there, we ended up just top-roping La Cosita Left. I LOVE this climb! Murcy did too.

Also while there, I ran into Sarah. Here we are with matching sparkly lip balm. Climbers or not, we gotta have our sparkles.

In addition, I spied another friend heading up the trail. It’s WayneW. Sweet. Nice to get to sit and chat with him a while. Too bad Becky wasn’t with him.

After this, it was time to bolt. Murcy had to head home and I wanted to get to the buffet/dance. I raced to the campsite for some clothes. In doing so I played an inadvertent game of chicken with Tim-the-Pancake-Man (it was a draw). Then I headed to the Village for the fun.

Lots of food, beer, wine and people were there. I have to say that those of you who were unable to go to this missed out big-time. The food and beverage was amazing. The show was amazing. The slander was amazing. The band was amazing. And the dancing – yeow! The dancing will bring me back next year.

I danced with Chicken Skinner until he made a get-away. Then I danced with Leo.

Shout out to Leo!

WHAT FUN! I even got in some sweaty belly-rubbing with the dancing machine aka Timmy O’Neill. The whole placed continued dancing even after the band left. Then it was time for more slander.

Here are several of the slander-session photos:

PaganSilverBack and Fatty. Notice Fatty’s double-fisted technique.

Fatty, Corporate Dog, Nature and PSB:

Here are Fatty, Mighty Hiker and George R (aka The Accountant):

George R, Myself, PSB and Mighty Hiker. Someone forgot a shirt. The jackets were really hot. This proved to make for some extra cool dancing as most everyone ended up pulling off their shirts. Fun fun fun!

Chicken Skinner and Mighty Hiker:

PaganMonkeyBoy and Nature Hallucinating: *edit: that is Ricky D, not Nature. Sorry*

Major Slander here:

The next morning, I went to assist in cleaning up the place. Whew. The smell. I hadn’t much to drink and it was making me woozy. Anyone who over-indulged would have died. George R and I (with the help of some others including Keith Lober) got the place looking great.

Then I headed back to the campsite. I’m in Yosemite and I found no one to climb with. Instead, I ran into a park official warning me about a bad bear. He told me to get in the car and honk if I saw him. He drove off. I drove 5 seconds down the road to find the Big-Fecking-Bear at my tent! Looking in. Ack.

What was I suppose to do? Oh year – take a photo. The flash wouldn’t stop so I couldn’t get photos of him touching my tent and looking in. The FBF turned and looked at me like he meant business. I stayed in the truck.

He wanted around rearranging furniture looking for food. He seemed especially enamored with my campsite. Maybe it was the duff. He had drug other folk’s junk a foot from my tent to eat and shred. Yikes.

I took a bit of video wondering if this was my ticket onto America’s Stupidest Videos. (I have tried loading this video and it is taking FOREVER. So I won’t do it.) Finally, Khanom showed up and the bear left.

I went to my tent where I was uneasy all after noon. I knew I had nothing in my tent to interest the BFB. Why was he so interested in my tent? In this spot? Finally at dusk, I grabbed the whole dang thing and drug it across the road. I knew I’d get no sleep leaving my tent in duff-ville. I do not need to wake up with a bear sniffing at my tent. I’d drop dead instantly.

A while later the park official returned and I informed him the bear was indeed Orange 47 and showed him the photos. He instructed me to sleep in my SUV. Happily I tore down my tent and cowered in my truck all night. I saw the officials coming back through during the night looking for #47. A friend heard the shot gun blasts. Guess we’ll never know if #47 got relocated again, or if he makes the third bear put down that season.

Another phenom trip to Yosemite has come to an end. I prolonged my exit by visiting briefly with El Cap Pics on the bridge, and then T2 as he was preparing to head up. Great seeing everyone. Can’t wait until next time.

Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
Oct 3, 2007 - 10:18pm PT
Thank you mistress of the Crimp. Those pics were SWEET!


Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Oct 3, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
Crimpie, I only made a get-away because it was getting too hot in there. Too much fun. I tried to find you the next day to thank you for swinging me around the dance floor. To no avail, I guess that is why the bear moved in.


right here, right now
Oct 3, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
Great job fillin' us in on the happenins la bella crimpura!

Social climber
St. Looney
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
These just in...some dance photos. Fun fun fun -


Half fast climber
the Gunks end of the country
Oct 3, 2007 - 11:35pm PT
Terrible that nobody took pictures of your Pine Line lead.

There is a perfect walk-up photo stance to climber's left there! And the backdrop behind the climber is outstanding as you could imagine.

Next time, make sure you have a designated photographer to chronicle your El Cap lead. :-)

Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 3, 2007 - 11:39pm PT
Great TR crimpie!

one minor correction:

PaganMonkeyBoy and Nature Hallucinating

should be

PaganMonkeyBoy and RickyD Hallucinating

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 3, 2007 - 11:42pm PT
Great TR Crimpie... Really good stuff.

It was good to see you again. Sorry I didn't get to hang out for the week. I feel as though I missed the best parts of the week.

George R

The Gray Area
Oct 3, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
Cool stuff Crimpie, thanks!
But, how come my eyes are always so red?
Err, never mind.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 4, 2007 - 01:10am PT
thanks for the trip report...
I had a wonderful time hanging out with you, cleaning and climbing.

The dance would have been fun but it was nice getting home and being with D after 5 days in the Valley with all you crazy people!

Hope things are working out for you and your birds too. Terrible to hear about your sitter.
susan peplow

Oct 4, 2007 - 03:00am PT
Hey Crimpie, nice photos. I did notice that the one listed with the caption "Fatty, Corporate Dog, Nature and PSB" that I see more of a Huber brother than the PMB.

Guy in the orange jacket behind Nature?


Social climber
St. Looney
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2007 - 08:30am PT
Ed - Let's climb together very soon. I had an unforgettable birthday because of you.

Susan - The Hubers were everywhere. Hanging out in the mornings, hanging out in the evenings, look through El Cap Pics lens and they they were too! In fact, Yosemite has to be the greatest collection of eye-candy (male and female and rock) anywhere. Just another aspect of why going there is such fun.

My birds are doing okay. We spent the day yesterday at the vet with them getting fluids. Grace is the worst (she is the smallest). At this time, all I can do is watch them for signs of organ failure. Hopefully that won't come. They were exhausted last night from all of it. I'm so happy that they all didn't die from this nightmare.

Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
Oct 4, 2007 - 10:59am PT
sweet pics crimpie - and it was nice to see you again !
and yeah doug is right - i do think that is rick d next to me hallucinating (of course we've seen just how good i am with names, so this is suspect for sure...;-) )
and yes susan - that is alexander i believe. we got to talk briefly with thomas - he and nature got to talk shiva (?) and about the statue in thomas's house and nature's necklace...very nice person, totally cool of him to talk to us strangers...
that place stamped an indelible imprint on my mind...great people, amazing stone...

San Fran Cisco
Oct 4, 2007 - 11:21am PT
yikes, glad the birds are okay! i wish there'd been open, non-torture-device routes that you hadn't just climbed... and tig is right, it's a shame with all the documentation of the proceedings (next year: streaming simulcasts?) that there's no shot of you scaling the captain---mea caught-cameraless culpa. it was super meeting you; thanks for a day of fun and struggle on the rock, and thanks for the great tr!

Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
Oct 4, 2007 - 11:21am PT
Great Trip Report, Crimpergirl! Sorry I missed out on the food, drink and fun on Sunday - work calls.

Glad to hear your birds are doing OK, grrr to the sitter!

I'll add some pictures in a bit...

Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 4, 2007 - 11:43am PT
yeah... shiva... which thomas has a huge tatoo off on his side. The statue/necklace is nataraja (dancing shiva).

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Oct 4, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
Great pics, crimpie! It was awesome to finally me you...and everybody else for that matter.

Sorry to hear about your birds, hopefully they all pull through. I'm sure they will.


Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
Oct 4, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
OK, here's some pics:

When I got into the valley on Saturday, it was wet and the campgrounds were full, so I bailed down to McCabe Campground for a night. I found a nice site on the river, and started my clean-up early by picking up the area. I then saw a nice potential bench (rocks to the left in this picture):

The top rock was almost six and a half feet long, but I found a broken picnic table, and using some leverage from a board, was able (barely) to skid the rock into position (I used the board as part of the bench (picured lower left):

On the way in the next day, I caught some nice light on half-dome (you've probably seen this a million times)

Right behind the Face-lift booth a couple of bucks were play-sparring:

I spent one night a K-Man's house in Yos West to help him move a fridge, what a sweet place!

One day Harrison and I cleaned up around LaConte Boulder, here's Harrison going deep for the trash:

And our best find of the day, a fixed mattress under the LaConte Boulder:

As mentioned, Rick Cashner was a trash-hauling machine! Here's one load at well over a thousand pounds, with Rick, Harrison, George R, Pinky, Ken and Rick:

Wednesday night, Royal and Tom showed their movie. A great flick with terrific narration. Here's JStan, Tom, Royal, Mighty Hiker and Nature after the show:

Ed and Nature at camp:

Good Times! Erik

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 4, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
thanks Erik, wonderful to meet you at the Facelift and get to talk.

I could see that light on Half Dome a million times and still be awed by the beauty.

Social climber
St. Looney
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
Cool photos.

One thing that surprised me was how psyched/proud we each were for our 'coolest' piece of trash. I mean really - we are photographing ourselves with TRASH. But look at the grins. I have told a ton of folks about "my television". Hilarious. What a fun event.

I'm super bummed I missed Robbins, Frost and that show. I hope that next year I can come and stay a lot longer so as not to miss a thing.
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