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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 17, 2007 - 02:44am PT
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Thanks, Clint. I've seen your abridgement, but I lost all of my files in the fire and had let the website laps, so I don't remember my source for that vague recollection.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 17, 2007 - 09:53am PT
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Hey, Ellie, post up, willya? We want to hear about your early 70s ascents in the Valley.
Anne Marie can you talk some sense into her?
Best, Roger
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 17, 2007 - 10:28am PT
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I'll get her on the phone today.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2008 - 11:34am PT
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Bump and welcome to the awesome Sibylle!
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Jun 17, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
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Gosh ... aw, shucks, ah thanks, guys!
And here I'd hoped to drift in to Tuolomne anonymously and do a few fun routes ... but had no climbing partner ...
Steve Roper edited an anthology, Ordeal by Piton, that has my story, Walls Without Balls (which was my original title but the AAJ board wouldn't accept it - they suggested 'Keeping Abreast on El Cap')! This version fixed some errors, which crept in to the barely legible version that I sent to Ad Carter after our climb.
I was hanging in the Valley on SAR many summers between 1995 - 2001. But in 2002 I got kicked off SAR (together with Micah Dash and Cedar Wright, so I guess I had good company!) and stayed in Tuolomne for a month that summer. In 2003, I was climbing in the Valley when my friend from Breckenridge, Chris Hampson, took a long fall and died three hours later. We were on Overhang Bypass, traversing to the top of Overhang Overpass, where he wanted to TR the 5.11 finger crack, about which we knew little.
I talked to him for three hours while he was hanging below me, dying (tho' I didn't know it at the time). I haven't been back to the Valley since then; may give it a try this year.
For now, I'll go to Tuolomne in July and hope to do a few routes there and some in the Sierra. Then Tristan and I are going to Squamish in August.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2008 - 11:12am PT
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I finally got to meet Sibylle at the Nose event. What a treat after all these decades!
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Nov 13, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
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Thanks, Steve.
I'm pretty excited to have met the Supertacoans at the event - I met Ed Hartouni, who introduced me to Lynne and Karl Baba, and I got to see his wonderful photos up close.
I'll try to make it to more events in the future, now that my son is out of school and I can travel more freely.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 07:21pm PT
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it was fun to meet you too Sibylle, I now have a voice to put to the TRs on your web site...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 13, 2008 - 07:41pm PT
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This is a picture of Sibylle at the last weekend's Nose reunion. Great to see you Sibylle--it has been a long time.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 13, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
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Great stuff, but the 2nd article starts dubiously. 3rd solo
ascent? Robbins, Haan, Dunn, Porter...when did Mike Graham
climb Aquarian?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 13, 2008 - 09:46pm PT
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Great bump. I just reread Sybille's article in the Alpinist today.
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Nov 13, 2008 - 10:50pm PT
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props to you, sibylle. i think it's especially cool that your website and books are all about the fun, and that you wear your achievements so lightly.
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Nov 15, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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Hi Roger, et al.,
I wish I could have stayed longer and hung around on Sunday to chat more with everyone. I never even go to see Werner (Hi, Werner). I had to be in Moab on Monday to put my camper in the shop. But while it was getting worked on, Tristan and I got up a few more towers. I am having so much fun climbing towers with my son.
I was never a professional or full-time climber and actively resisted that option. Reinhold Messner, in about 1979, after I gave a slide show in Munich about my three El Cap ascents, invited me to climb with him and offered me a job in his guide school. I turned it down, because climbing is what I love most, and what is the most fun I ever have. I didn't want it to become work, or a job. Luckily I was getting a Ph.D. in grad school at the time, and eventually got a job in biology and then science writing, so I was able to keep climbing for fun and not for work.
With a child, It became even more so - I couldn't do hard or long climbs because I needed to take care of my son. That's why I wrote Fun Climbs Colorado: everyone who had kids, a beginner significant other, or a beginner relative, was asking me where to take their friends on easy routes with easy approaches.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked my story. My title was:"Bev's and My Grand Adventure".
I am having trouble with titles. First they won't let me use my original one; and now they won't let me use anything else!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
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Gal Bump!
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Bump.
Happy international women's day!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Scuff,
The First Five Solo ascents of El Cap BITD
Royal on the 2nd ascent of the Muir 1968
Tom Bauman on the Nose 1970?
Peter Haan 11th ascent of the Salathe 1971
Jimmy Dunn FA of Cosmos 1972
Charlie Porter FA Zodiac 1972
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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First use of word f*#k in Mountain magazine?!? From #32 Feb 74.
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WBraun
climber
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One huge big cheer for Ellie .....
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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A bump for Bev, for "having to babysit" her industrial sewing machine on my back porch in the Valley, for Bev finding me in Punta Arenas when she & Mike were doing their Antarctica boat & gyrocopter trip. A bump for an incredible woman who never acted like she was super famous - just always a good friend. For being the first person with Rizzi on a fire crew to radio out for more tampons. To toast to Bev on international woman's day!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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I hope that you are compiling a memoir, Kathy! You certainly have the material for a great one.
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