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TomMc
Trad climber
Massachusetts
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My oh my, what a wonderful thread. The Gunks hold a very special place in my heart, as do all the friends and climbing partners from those days. Both the rock and the people are the very best, it was good to see pictures of both.
My favorite "good old days" story of the Gunks comes from my first visit, Labor Day weekend 1967. I have a photo of us eating lunch down below the Uberfall along the road. There were 6 cars there! Thats all! The fee was 50 cents a day, and Joe Donahue (remember him?) was the Mohonk ranger before Tom Scheuer.
The names and photos urged me to dig out my old guidebooks (Art Gran '64 and Dick Williams '72) to recall some of my past. I was fortunate to have climbed lots of 5.9's and 10's in the early/mid-1970's with some of the best; Kevin and Barbara Bien, John Bragg, Steve Arsenault, Steve Wunsch, Bob Jahn, Spaff Ackerly, Howie Doyle, and others. What a pleasure to see their names and pictures.
Does anyone know what happened to Bob Richardson or Harvey Goldstein? I see Al Rubin occasionally here in western Mass., and actually got to the Gunks to climb last summer for the first time in 12 years.
I'd love to come down for the reunion in October. Can anyone provide me with any details? E-mail me direct at: tom@southfacefarm.com.
John Stannard: You were a very important integral part of the the Gunks climbing history, not only for pushing the limits but also for your clean climbing ethics and community work spirit. Train or plane or flying carpet, y'gotta come east in October for the reunion.
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wombat
Trad climber
NY, NY
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wow - the tree at the base of enduro man has grown quite alot!
we were over there a little while back (on TR) and discussing the merits and tactics for protecting the pitch on lead. plan 1 was to jump for the tree, plan 2 was to pre-sling the tree with a stick to hold out the sling towards the rock to make it easier to reach. barring that, solo seemed to be the most likely option. we have not yet availed ourselves of any of those yet. great moves, proud lead.
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DanaB
climber
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I'm pretty sure in that group photo with Bragg, Rosenfeld, et al, it's actually Bill Ravitch that's hiding behind the tree. Rick Cronk is also in the picture, and I believe it's Barbara Devine who is being belayed on To Have or Have Not.
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Rickster
Trad climber
Pine Bush,NY
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Thank you Dana, we've been trying to fathom who was behind the tree. I'm pretty sure this was a day spent on and around "To Have and Have Not". At some time while Barb was up top, a toaster sized rock came off and slammed in not few feet from the belay. Everyone goes diving left and right and all David can do is stand there tied short to the tree. Being a good man on a rope, he stayed the course and held on. RC
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DanaB
climber
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Gene,
Thanks for posting those photos. At last, there is some photographic evidence that I really do climb. I had a lot of fun climbing with you that summer, and I still haunt the 'Gunks - I was up there yesterday. Remember Roger's Rock with Todd and Patty? I just went back there a week ago, the paddle out and the climbing are still a blast. Take care.
Dana Bartlett
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Hey Dana, I just top-roped evidence that you really do climb---Night Fall. Holy crap, I thought 5.10 X would be a fair grade. How the hell did you protect that thing?
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Bob Jahn on April Showers...I think....1977.
Rich G again on Endro Man
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DanaB
climber
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Hi Rich,
There was no protection, and I thought that it was solid to hard 5.10; I've climbed enough at the 'Gunks to know that. I have no idea why Dick downrated it to 5.9. It's definitely much harder.
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DanaB
climber
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Gene,
Those photos of Balrog made me think of something else we did in that area. Remember doing Nurdland?
Dana
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DanaB
climber
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Someone has to live here . . .
Dana
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Wow! What a trip down the memory carriage road. Thanks to all for the pics and comments.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dana...you dissing my hometown?? Look me up if you make it out this way.
Todd...long time no see. Hope all is well?
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Dana,
Great to hear from you.
Of course I remember that June of 81. I just got out of an Army school and had 30 days off. I was so psyched to climb! I met up you and we climbed a bunch of B-side and other classics:
Nerdland
Nemisis
Welcome to the Gunks
Midnight Cowboy
October Country
Shake and Bake
Jean
Maria Direct
No existence
This Petty Pace
and we also climbed Two Bits on Rogers Rock with Todd Swain and Patty Lanzetta.
I picked up a lot watching you climb thin face. I remember you had this minimalist rack: all hollow biners and couple wires. You didn't waste time putting in much of it either! I searched for more pics of you, but those were the only ones I had.
Look forward to climbing with you this October at the Reunion! Also Laura and I will be climbing in the Gunks 10-12 Aug and 16-23 Aug if you'd like to meet us. PM me.
Geno
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Here are a couple scans:
Mike Freeman on No Exit:
A climber moving out on Modern Times:
Rosie Andrews on No Comment:
[img]
Rosie on Fissure Ramin:
Jeff Gruenberg on Square Meal:
Jeff on Welcome to the Gunks:
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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A few shots of my struggles on Foops back in 82:
I always thought it would be easy once I got the bucket at the lip but it wasn't for me. I fell pretty far at this point.
Here is another climber trying:
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Here are a few shots of people from the late 70s/early 80s:
Rick Cronk:
Rick who is the guy to the right?
Harvey Arnold:
Manny on the left. Mike Sawicky on the right.
Bobby do you know this guy?
Gary Garret and Steve Jones.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Bobby D, I just snapped my achilles while bouldering last week and am now perfecting my armchair routine. I'm living in Bellingham and doing well though not climbing much due to the crazy long ski seasons. I'll be back!
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jstan
climber
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If asked why that climb gets so much attention I would have to guess it
is because of the bucket at the lip. You can see where you have to get
to. The roof I really regret our doing was all slopey and roundy out there.
Once on the face it was most definitely not all over.
If no one had done it people could still look up and wonder. Answers don't
keep you awake at night wondering.
Only questions do that.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Great shots everyone. Keep them flowing.
Geno...the guy with Gary is Steve Jones...his brother Cory use to a ranger.
This is me trying my best to break my neck on Generation Gap...maybe the biggest sandbag in the Gunks.
Todd...sorry about the ankle...weren't you just in town climbing with Dan?
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