Shawangunks - Cornerstone of Eastern Traditional Climbing

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Geno

Trad climber

Reston, VA

Jul 23, 2008 - 06:59am PT

Bob, Nice shots from your archives. Great to see them. It's amazing the memories old pictures invoke.

Here are a couple of Dan McMillan. We climbed Crack'n Up that day. Dan fought hard and did it. I can't remember where we are in these pics. I think we are nearby on another climb.

veryveryoldman

Social climber

The Bronx

Jul 23, 2008 - 03:02pm PT

Geno-

I think you were on Exit Stage Left in those pics, a 5.9 next to Modern Times.

Jstan-

Do you have any recollections you would share about Stannard's Roof? It's one of my favorites, although I find it intimidating and difficult.

When did you first climb it? Who were you with? What did you use to protect it?

Here are two shots of it:

-Denis

Geno

Trad climber

Reston, VA

Jul 23, 2008 - 09:42pm PT

Denis, Roger. You are right. Gene

jstan

climber

Jul 23, 2008 - 10:05pm PT

Roof:
Must have been early 70's or there abouts. I remember getting a good
nut well out there, most probably a large stopper. No risk of cratering
against the wall. Absolutely best part came when I got to the lip. Reached
up for the its-over-hold and grabbed onto a 150# loose block. Could not
use it so you had to find an alternative. I was told someone trundled it.
So it's not the climb it was originally. Didn't give it a name. Since no
marks were left on it, it was there undamaged ready to be discovered again.

Best laid plans gang aft aglae.

Edit
The nut was in that good place. The reach to the block was blind so it
must have been sitting in what you see as a V at the skyline. The roof
used to be a bit longer. Must be an awful route to follow. Fall off and
you finish up in the trees.

veryveryoldman

Social climber

The Bronx

Jul 24, 2008 - 10:23am PT

Thanks, John. That's interesting. I can't imagine where that block was resting--but I'm sort of happy I don't have to deal with it.

One day I'll try doing it with only stoppers for the full experience, but it'll be tough forgoing that perfect #2 camalot in the rail before the lip. That placement always fills me with a sense of joy and contentment.

Here's the roof as it looks before you get horizontal, and a view of Clove Valley from the top of the route in late October:

steveA

Trad climber

bedford,massachusetts

Jul 24, 2008 - 10:39am PT

First time posting on Supertopo. I sprained my ankle a few days, ago (bouldering), and am killing time on the Web. I am enjoying this thread. Kevin Bein was a good friend of mine-brings back fond memories. Looking forward to the Oct. reunion, (HenryB invited me). JohnS-nice to see you here. It will be fun seeing many old faces.
Cheers Steve Arsenault

jstan

climber

Jul 24, 2008 - 10:55am PT

Steve:
I am still using that same junk sling. Shall I bring it or mail it?

John

I'm kidding. I'm kidding.
No. As a matter of fact I do still have it.

bob d'antonio

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2008 - 11:33am PT

Barbara Devine on Open Cockpit...1977

Hardie Truedale on On Any Monday...I think.

Mike Freeman on Wasp Stop.

Bob D on Climb and Punishment.

I hope I not boring you guys with these photos?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2008 - 11:40am PT

Welcome Steve Arsenault!

Then and now on the VMC Direct. From Mark Kroese Fifty Favorite Climbs

bob d'antonio

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2008 - 11:42am PT

Lynn on Iron Curtain...Skytop

She lead it... wasn't pumped enough so she did another run.

veryveryoldman

Social climber

The Bronx

Jul 24, 2008 - 11:44am PT

You're certainly not boring me.

I think Hardie Truesdale is on Never Never Land.

emac

climber

New Hampshire

Jul 24, 2008 - 11:48am PT

I've not been down to the Gunks in a couple of years, but it's one of my favorite place for sure.

veryveryoldman

Social climber

The Bronx

Jul 24, 2008 - 11:52am PT

Here is how Never Never Land looked last week:

bob d'antonio

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 24, 2008 - 12:13pm PT

My son Jeremy (just getting done doing his duty) and me at the Gunks in 1978.

This shot also shows how pitiful and defective my left arm (bicep) is. LOL

the idle rich

climber

Estes Park, CO

Jul 24, 2008 - 01:14pm PT

jstan...you used to be just eccentric but at least your memory was intact. I'm not so sure anymore. Here's my story and I'm sticking to it!

In the fall of 1975 I made plans to climb at Lost City with Steve Wunsch. Steve talked about a roof that he was interested in checking out and related this story. He and John Stannard were walking along the base of Lost City one day when they noticed a huge roof at the top of the cliff. Steve wondered aloud if the thing would possibly go free and John answered, "Oh, sure, it looks like it's about 5.9." John later climbed it with Pete Ramins (I think) and called it "Surprise Overhang". When Wunsch asked him how hard the roof was, Stannard answered, "Oh...about 5.9". Wunsch assumed that the surprise was that the roof was so much easier than it looked.

It was a stellar day in October when Steve and I made the hike to Lost City with Lucy Greenberg and her young children, Ted and Emily. Lucy sunbathed topless (at least that's how I like to remember it and it's my story) and prepared a picnic lunch. The kids played in the talus at the base of the cliff.

I haven't climbed there in years, but at that time the local ethic was not to advertise or even report routes that had been done at Lost City. Any route information was passed on word of mouth and most climbers were loathe to ask for any beta. The intent was to have an area where everyone was free to have the adventure of a first ascent even if the climb had been done many times before. The running joke was that Stannard had climbed all of these routes at some time in the past...hence the phrase Done By Stannard Years Ago (DBSYA).

After looking at the roof, I couldn't imagine it going at anywhere near 5.9. Wunsch allowed me to have the roof lead which immediately raised a red flag. Upon reflection, I think his plan was to have me place the pro, work the moves and then take the free ride to the lip after I blew out. This was not the first time he used that ploy (rather effectively I might add) which made me all the more determined to lead it without falling. You had to respect the man's strategy but it wouldn't work this time.

I was able to place gear and then somehow reverse the moves each time and climb back to a rest at the belay. This involved much swinging and circus-like maneuvers in order to place the feet back on the holds. I endured a constant stream of heckling from Wunsch until I reminded him that he would only have one chance to clean the roof when he followed. Though not very speedy, all went well until I reached the lip and saw a large block that didn't quite look attached to the cliff. As I reached out to gently test the block, it came loose and began to fall off of its perch. That's when I remembered that Ted and Emily were playing in the talus somewhere below. I was able to hold the block in place, at the same time screaming for Lucy to get the kids to a safe place. Steve had finally ceased his heckling, probably more interested in the drama that was enfolding. After what seemed like an eternity, they told me that the children were safe. I relaxed slightly and the block sailed through my arms and smashed into the rocks below. On the positive side, it left a good hold in its wake that allowed me to finish the last moves to the top.

I couldn't imagine any way to climb past the death block other than doing a series of one-arm pullups. The next time I saw Stannard, I told him about the near-disaster and asked why he left the block on the climb. He gave his silly laugh and complained, "Oh no...you ruined the surprise!" He then demanded that I return to the climb and replace the rock. John wandered off down the carriage road shaking his head and mourning the loss. If the intent was to preserve the sense of adventure for future climbers, the goal was well met.

veryveryoldman

Social climber

The Bronx

Jul 24, 2008 - 02:56pm PT

That's a great story, Rich--thank you.

Here's the lip (with no loose block in sight):

bob d'antonio

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Jul 30, 2008 - 10:36am PT

Oakie wrote: Bob D, i mentioned to Barb that I thought you posted a couple photos of her on Supertopo. She had the biggest smile on her face when when she heard your name.

She is by far one the sweetest people that I know. I had so many wonderful times with her and Kevin....I miss seeing both of them...they added so much sunshine to my life.

I saw he last year at for the first time in 20 years and tears came to both our eyes.

mongrel

Trad climber

Truckee, CA

Jul 30, 2008 - 12:02pm PT

With the name of this post, along with all the great photos that have turned up already, we ought to have one anyway of trad climbing the way it was: hammer in the back pocket, rack of 3 slings/biners, hiking boots with no friction at all, maybe a swami of 2 or 3 wraps of 1 inch.

(First try at posting an image; will it work?)

High E, a few years back