Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2007 - 01:45pm PT
|
Both the first and second pitch of Moritourium are classic and I think they are real 10d's. Second pitch, lots of stemming if I remember to a sloping top out, yikes.
I love the fracture, but it is like the serenity crux, punch through a move or two and it's over, no classic long term suffering like some of the others.
On the short but sweet 10d's- The first real pitch on south by southwest on lower spire. Totally intimidating exposure, a couple of thin moves to a thank god jug where you can chalk up on overhanging rock with hundreds of feet of air under your feet. One of the best.
Tom
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
|
I'd second the nominations for "10 Years After". Great climb! The cruxes are kinda problem solving, with sh#t for feet, and definitely .10d, rather than super steep technical jamming. Great climb in a cool area. Good stuff!
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
|
4th pitch of Cap'm Pissgums in the stronghold. Burly.
|
|
N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
|
The Prow at Paradise Forks. This felt to me like one of those 10+'s that is harder than 11-. Great route! Come to think of it, all the Flagstaff Trad climbing seems stout! You guys and Gals around there don't give up the 5.11 grade very easy! I like it!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
|
I always considered the Prow .11-!
|
|
N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
|
Jaybro, I swear the guide had it listed as 10+, maybe not. I know we were expecting 10+ when we climbed it.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Well, I belayed Paul Davidson on the FA of the Prow and remember it as being 5.11- for his hand size and solid 5.11 for my larger mits. AZ is notorious for stiff ratings but that one ain't 5.10.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Oh yeah, NO_, I was agreeing with you, (and, Steve G) and not the book!
Once upon a time Horn's Mother, Boardwalk and Bellcrack, in Vedauwoo were all rated .10+, now that's a tough room!
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 11:51am PT
|
I always found it funny that Catchy is rated .10d while around the corner you have Waverly at .10c.
How about Lean Years? Facey moves to a thin crack, Great (but grassy now).
PS, Great shots, Marshall!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
10D crack is often technique-y,
While 10C crack is more often than not just plain old burly.
Don't ax me to esplain that; just a personal impression...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Yup, second pitch of Horn's mom (.10c, I think), not a hard move on it, but burl, burl, all the way.
".10d's are there to make or break egos," Doug Cairns.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Ain't Meatgrinder 10C?
Burl, burl...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Burl, Burl,
toil and trouble
Tendons strain
and handjams fumble
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Stem & protect!
|
|
vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
|
|
the prow's totally .11-....great route, though.
Torpedo and Loose Lips are sweet, both .10d
The Fox @ RR...classic line.
Our Father- last pitch
Red Zinger @ RR- link the pitches or do 'em separate, both pitches are incredible.
Rubicon is .10c, not .10d....but no less classic!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
3rd pitch, left side of Slab Happy Pinnacle: 10D hands under a bombay flare.
One of my fave obscure valley thrutches, ...oh, how delicious.
|
|
Jello
Social climber
No Ut
|
|
Quivering Quill at Turkey Rocks. The Diving Board in Eldo. The second pitch (handcrack) of Wunch's Dihedral. All true 10d's that are often mis-labelled 11.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
i've done so many 10d cracks i can't even remember half of 'em. but i'm pretty sure finger lickin' would rise to the top as my all-time hands-down desert island 10d crack. that sucker has it all. waverly wafer would be my second choice...but of course it's only 10c, and so, sadly, does not make the cut.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
The Diving Board in Eldo.
That used to be one of my favorites. Early one morning I climbed it as a way of psyching up or calming down before a big oral defense in grad school. Felt like a gunfighter, walking into the exam room with cut hands and a smile.
|
|
N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
|
|
Steve G, that must have been somthin to see the first ascent of the Prow @ PF done with all chocks! Hardcore!
Anyone know how long it took for a second ascent of the Prow and was it with chocks, only?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!