Discussion Topic |
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Durabone
climber
Santa Cruz Mountains
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 22, 2007 - 02:32am PT
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I still have my two TCU's from the company "Wired Bliss"
Many moons later (20 years), I have had nothing but satisfaction.
Who were they, what happened to them, can I get some MORE???
Thanks
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Aug 22, 2007 - 03:02am PT
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I think they were from Flagstaff and pretty much developed the TCU. They were revived for a bit in the late '90's, but seem to be gone again. They made really good stuff.
EDIT:
Here's a link to the Nuts Museum:
http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm
The part about Steve Byrne/Wired Bliss is about half-way down the page.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 22, 2007 - 03:05am PT
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Still the best TCU on my rack. Steve Byrne was the grey matter behind Wired Bliss and as many claim, the entire TCU invention. Good units.
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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Aug 22, 2007 - 09:57am PT
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Steve worked for Metolius way back in the early, early 80's making sliders then left the company to pursue Wired Bliss & TCU's in Flagstaff in 84/85. TCU's were his idea 100% but saw 4 conflicts with WC Friend patents and thus could not control production. I believe Duece suggested that he solo an el cap route to bring his name to light. Steve went up on Mescalito and 11 days later topped out- his first wall & solo. Bliss under Steve later went on to produce big friends (a #5 and #7) and the ideal Ball nut. Ball Nuts or "jingus things" were in three main sizes although a "zero" size existed but was only loaned out for el cap use. Lowe bought the patent but then failed to get them out. Tim & Lovelace @ Pirate tried to make them off patent, but I never saw them produced.
In 91/92 he sold to Tony Cosby (as in "Bill") while Steve finished up an engineering degree and went to work for WL Gore. Metolius,HB, and some others were producing TCU's at that point so competition was getting stiff.
Later, Babbitt's (the Edge?) bought Bliss and faded out.
I can't name any of the 1980's Flagstaff climbers who did not work for Bliss or A5- they all seemed to rotate through (except maybe Bob Dubois? and Tim). I just remember buying "seconds" from YB for $15, a TCU or "unit" that had some minor flaw. Ball nuts were also $15 each and a good friend blew off the opportunity to buy aa bunch and return to the east coast to introduce the world to the jingus thing....
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Durabone
climber
Santa Cruz Mountains
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2007 - 11:33am PT
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Wow, cool!
I remember now. I bought them in JT out of a van that
I believe would have been Steve's. I think he may have
sold them to me. An absolutely icy Christmas in JTree.
89?
Thanks for that museum link. I have the smallest one
and another two sizes up. The thick wire and nice job
on the swage is always comforting when I place them.
I seem to remember placing them well under some flakes
in JTree, like on Quickdraw McGraw. A little graphite on
the wires every now and then an then - good to go.
I also bought some ball nuts back then, and though they
were also solid pro, they did not last like the TCUs. But I
say that bringing them back would be very cool. The metal
sort of bit the rock reminiscent of a copperhead, and they
definitely filled a void. Where your stoppers don't have
quiet enough of a flare to hold, where your cams are too
big, and where you can't see under very well....
The Jingus Thing. So Lowe "dropped the ball?" They're fired.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:38am PT
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Best TCU's ever, hands-down.
Superb craftsmanship & ergonomics, smoothest operation, and great rock fit.
I still have a couple from '87 & the action is still smoother than anything else on my rack.
I want some more... oh well.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:43am PT
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actualy, steve developed the first prototype tcu's while in bend using metolius' shop equipment. i remember jeff ellington showing me one of the first in '83 or '84 while on a trip to smith. he (byrne) moved to flag a year or two later and set up wired bliss.
in my multi-pitch thin-crack-climbing heyday, mid-80's - mid 90's, i had no less than 20 wired bliss tcu's. still got 'em too, but they are so old i'd be afraid to use 'em for free climbing. those suckers sure could halt a whipper though, that's for sure.
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:45am PT
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I still have doubles of the 1 and 2 and they were still my main tcus until 3 weeks ago when I bought some ultralight Metolius units. They still work great and are definitely the oldest pieces on my rack.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:49am PT
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BVB: you are right. Those old ones under your bed are super sketch. You should send them over here for some real world testing. I'll pay shipping. You have my address, right???
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:53am PT
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Still have a full set. They are pretty tweaked from holding some long falls, and my "friends" using em for aid in horizontal cracks, so I dont use em for free climbing anymore. But definately the shyte for thin cracks in the 80s/early 90s...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 22, 2007 - 12:00pm PT
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My friend Brigid lived in 'Staff and was friends with Byrne and others. Just saw her a couple of days ago, she still has her Mini-Bliss on her key chain. A TCU unit that's about the size of your pinky. Steve made is special for her & claimed it would hold 250 lbs. Totally cool...
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Aug 22, 2007 - 12:11pm PT
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I can still visualize the number 0 placement in Mayflower Direct, which comes right when you can almost get your fingers in and above some really small wires.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Aug 22, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
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Russ, didn't you (along with others in the industry) receive a letter a few years ago stating that the business was up for sale and he was looking for buyers?
Chances are that offer is still on your desk somewhere under Milwaukee's Best Cans and Harbor Freight catalogs.
~S
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 22, 2007 - 12:37pm PT
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hahaha.
Way to bust on 'im Sooze.
I vaguely remember that up for sale bit.
(could be a shallow market with a lot of players)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 22, 2007 - 01:07pm PT
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I bought the two smallest sizes for my '88 ascent of The Nose. I still have them, but the wires have broken, and Tucker Tech told me that they couldn't be fixed, so they're in my museum along with various straightened hooks and busted heads.
It is interesting to hear you guys speak so highly of them, but perhaps you mean the bigger sizes? I bought the tiny ones to fit in pin scars, and looking at them these days, and comparing their ultra-stiff stems to the flexible Aliens, they seem pretty crappy. Of course, I use small cams almost exclusively for aid climbing, hence my preference for the flexible Alien stems.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 22, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
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My buddy Tim had a couple of them and liked 'em, so I picked one up to give it a try. I musta got the sole sorta not-so-great WB piece. Never did like it because the cams on it went more than perpendicular (did they have cam-stops back then?) when it was relaxed and there was always this bizzare catch in the action at first pull. Hard to describe. Got that piece around somewhere, though.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 22, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
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I still use the #1 and #3 on my rack. WB used a softer aluminum alloy on the cams, so they had better friction/holding power than the contemporary Metolius powdered metal cast cams (a harder and slipperier gray cam). The more recent Metolius are back to a softer alloy on the cams, so no need to prefer WB at this point. But I still have a pretty new WB set 1-4 for backup when my old ones wear out.
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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Aug 22, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
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All of mine have cam stops and I have never had one break. They still pull really smoothly but that might be because they haven't taken much abuse because I hate to fall.
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Aug 22, 2007 - 04:14pm PT
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Russ,
I've got a grey (no # on unit .75 BD size) WB four cam unit I found at the base of Parodical Son a few years back you can destroy. I've never had the balls to use it. Poor guy that dropped it must of had a bad couple of days; I found a couple of nuts and biners all separate with the same turquoise paint on them.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 22, 2007 - 04:18pm PT
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Here's some pics of the Wired Bliss shop in the good ole days (1985 or so). I bought the milling machine in the photo and finished my first batch of hammers there. I also managed the shop when I sent Steve off to climb Mescalito with all the gear he needed. Them were fun days....
Bonus points if you can name all the characters, and double bonus if you can tell us what they're doing now!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Aug 22, 2007 - 04:31pm PT
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Alan Humphries is one of them. Some of my WBs have an AH stamp on them.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 22, 2007 - 04:34pm PT
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NoOne: Destroy? I'm talking about non destructive testing in real world conditions... like on my vacation next month...... Whaddya scared of?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 22, 2007 - 04:38pm PT
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I'll hook ya up Russ..I'll bring my Faliens out with me next time I hit the tree and we can pull the hell out of 'em.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 22, 2007 - 07:13pm PT
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Please tell me there's really beer in the Pepsi can...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 22, 2007 - 07:28pm PT
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I knew I had that piece hanging around...here are some shots of it.
You can see why I didn't like it...the thing was permanantly umbrella'd like this. Functionally, it works okay, but the action of pulling the trigger sucks. Not a cam stop in sight. I'm pretty sure this effect got worse over time, as I can't believe I would have bought the thing like this...
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treeman
climber
mule city
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Aug 22, 2007 - 07:36pm PT
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John MacMullen and maybe Kyle Copeland, and a guy named Brent?
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hlehmann
Trad climber
San Fernando Valley
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Aug 22, 2007 - 10:06pm PT
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I remember that on some Autumn weekend in 1985, Todd Skinner & Company had gotten hold of a bunch of original TCU's from Metolious and were hoping to sell them along the Carriage Road at the Gunks. All it took was a quick "Psst, Buddy... check this out" on a busy Saturday morning, and before noon their entire supply was sold out. I think they got $20 or $25 each for them; I don't exactly remember. All the rich yuppie climbers that had bought some were running to try them out on the thin, horizontal, Gunks cracks. Friends, with their solid stems, were typically tied off with 5mm Perlon or Kevlar to keep them from breaking over the horizontal edges in the event of a fall ( I still have my original Friends tied off this way, and I haven't been to the Gunks in almost 20 years). These new-fangled TCUs would not only fit into smaller cracks than the Friends, but their flexible stems would prevent them from breaking during a fall.
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Aug 23, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
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Russ, you can only have it if your going to pull it to failur then tells us what happens.
I've carried as an extra but never placed it. It's got some big dents in two of the cam lobes, and I don't know how far it fell from.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 23, 2007 - 03:26pm PT
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The first time I saw a TCU was at the Leap.
We were on Mega Force when we watched this scrawny couple walk up the gully towards us. To our surprise, they meander over to Silly Willy Crack, a discontinuous crack that's impossibly thin looking.
Even more to our astonishment, this whiff of a guy starts leading up, and making great progress. Of course, it was Suzuki and his wife. He showed me his secret, tiny camming units. He had a set of 'em. They looked funny.
"How hard is that crack?"
"Oh, very hard," he said as he looked up. Recalling the sequence, he said "Five twelve move...five twelve move, five twelve move. Five twelve move..." He was mentally going over the moves.
Two days later he sent the 2nd: 5.12d
Who made the first, fat fingers and all?
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JohnnyMac
Big Wall climber
Carbondale, CO
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Aug 24, 2007 - 11:20am PT
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HA! Thanks for sending me the link Matt! And thanks Deuce for posting the pics ... I got a huge laugh seeing these again. Brings back a lot of good memories from Flagstaff. Wish I was still that skinny (I'm in the black T-shirt). :)
Miss all you guys!
 JM
Oh, btw ... I still have all my TCU's and Sliders!
KC isn't in any of these photos. Haven't heard or seen him for years. Hope he's still kick'in out there somewhere.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 14, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Bliss baby!
I had no idea WB was dunzo until recent partners were trippin out on my rack, and my key chain.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Mar 14, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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I got lots o WB TCU's on my rack. Love the purple and blue's
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Mar 14, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
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I have four WB's and they are still as good as ever.
Silly Willy was done first by Bill Price.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 14, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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I still have these three in service.
The oldest in the house are these two from Mimi's rack.
The one on the left is rustic enough to be original run!
The first consistent runs had the center wire cluster and no anodizing or Wired Bliss stamp.
The next run was tricked out with side wires, stamp and color coding.
The cams also had subtle grooves for a better bite.
I never had a problem with these fantastic cams!!!
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Mar 14, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
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Mike. , by "new", do you mean metolius? On pitch 5?
Alex
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Mar 14, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
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I remember doing Cinnamon Slab at Smith in '83 and watching a guy send Karot tots with a bunch of these crazy homemade things he said he invented. It was the first time I even heard of any cams that were not friends or Tricams. Never had I seen such a blank [looking] face lead with such aplomb, before then.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 15, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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rarely saw WBs, but one week when Donner Summit came on the scene, JB Tribout, Bobby Bensman, Didier R.(sp?) were all there busting moves left and right.
In the parking lot below Snow Shed wall, this guy in a van is selling WBs, chalk, etc from his the sliding door of the van. I think I've posted this before. Anyways, he has this goofy styrofoam wig stand bungie corded to his passenger seat.
didn't see too many after that as either right before or after metolius started selling the TCU units.
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froodish
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 16, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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A number 2 Wired Bliss ball nut, purchased out of a van in JT sometime in the 80's:
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Mar 17, 2009 - 12:25am PT
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I too had a few of these in my possession as well in the day...
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 17, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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My whole rack of cams for years was "Wired Bliss". They got so worn and used Coz one day saw them and freaked out and got me a new rack of camlots to support the mess I was using as protection.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 21, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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I posted this on the Walt cam thread, but this seems like a better fit, here
I bought this unit from Mr Byrne shortly before the launch of Wired Bliss he still lived in Oregon then, I believe.
Bill Zauman was selling something similar.
Somewhere I posted a photo of my two sets of Wired Bliss Tcu's and a rare Wired Bliss 5" piece. i'll look for it.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Mar 21, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
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jay-
my #5 is now retired in europe. I've still got a #1 and #2 ball thing on the rack - far better than the newer versions with the silver solder faces.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Sep 30, 2009 - 10:48am PT
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rick d, I promise you that your Wired Bliss Buddie #5 has found a good home in the Nuts Museum, here in Corsica. Again, I thank you very much for parting with such a splendid cam! Here it is beside a special carabiner made by Steve Byrne. It has over 100 holes and took about 4 hours to drill.
Jaybro, I have an almost similar friend that is one of the first batch that Steve Byrne made at COCC. The cams were milled at 15 degree angles to make the shape.
It still would be a great privilege to add your Buddie #7 to the Nuts Museum
Stephane / Nuts Museum
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 30, 2009 - 10:55am PT
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It was a wired bliss TCU that caught my 100' er on Mescalito.
Tweaked it pretty good, but it held.
Great gear, that.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 30, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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I boulder with my good friend Jim Erdman, and he use to work and go to school there. I remember Jim telling me stories of the old shop and how they would take apart cams and make off-sets. THen go on a BIG wall frenzy in the valley getting a lot of fast accents and what not. I got to tell him about this tread...he will be stoked. Love the HISTORY. keeep it up. l8 -e
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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I love my little bliss. It did not come with webbing, so the first set of photos did not make sense to me. Mine look like Nutstory's pictures. At the time I bought it, it fit in places nothing else would. I didn't have a wealth of cams back then, so it was purchased after lots of research. Still have them 20+ years later,
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kiehacker
Trad climber
Southern Sierra\\\\\\\'s CA
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A few friends emailed me about this thread so I figured I should chime in.
I purchased Wired Bliss and manufactured the cams for several years, it was a good fit with my climbing shop and online shop which I ran at the time in Flagstaff AZ.
I moved to California to Alta Sierra, mainly to have close access to the Needles, and to be within a few hours of the High Sierras. We opened a shop in Wofford Heights and continued selling cams and running the webstore.
I kind of got burnt out on retail and handed off the website to a partner to run and I focused on new projects (mainly real estate investment) which consumed most of my time. I sold my building and put Wired Bliss in storage. I planned on selling the units I had stockpiled and reopening sooner than later in a new location. But my new investment interests grew and I just didn't have the time to devote to Wired Bliss.
I still have a lot of parts, tools, and equipment. I keep dreaming about getting things up and running again but it is obvious that it is just a dream.
I don't climb much anymore I mostly into whitewater kayaking now...creeking to be specific but when I do occasionally head up to Dome Rock to get on some easy multi-pitch....I love the feeling of the Wired Bliss Cams.
I would be very interested in finding an active partner who would be interested in resurrecting this fine product.
Geno Hacker
genehacker at mchsi dot com
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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oh wow, that would be so cool...
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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I love Flagstaff and Wired Bliss. I am so interested. What are the numbers?
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Dreams can Happen!
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willie!!!!!
Ice climber
honolulu, hawaii
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Really cool thread!
I like the drilled biner. I can identify with spending 4 hours on that type of project.
You guys sure lived it!
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Wired Bliss Buddies #5 and #6 are my working units. #5 is too big for Moby Dick Center.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Stephane, I will send you my big Unit, as soon as I am done with it!
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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I'm glad to hear about what finally became of Wired Bliss. I still carry a full set of TCU's and FCU's on my rack as doubles or triples, as the case may be. The softer aluminum was always better in the sandstone I grew up with in Georgia.
I may know of someone who is interested in your business proposal so I'll pass this info along.
Bill
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Ripped from Salmon
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The right TCU in this photo I removed as a fixed peice on pitch 4 of Mescalito, El Cap. circa. 1988. I later learned that this fixed TCU was from Steve Byrnes one and only El Cap Route. He climbed his first El Cap route solo up Mescalito, and I give kudo's to Steve, it was rather bold to do the route solo ... and the TCU's he made for it were great!
For a peice of history about Flagstaff climbing here, one needs to remember that prior to Steve's TCU's going on the market, you only had Chouinard Stoppers ... and those didn't do too well in parallel sided cracks of Basalt or Granite of Northern Arizona and Yos.
I remember going to the Bliss factory off Clay Ave when Steve ran the Business and lived in the loft of the shop. This was right after Steve had moved to Flag. and established shop. At that time there were many of the Flag. Climbing boys that worked for Steve in the beginning (1985?)including:
Jim Erdman, Barry Ward, Alan Humphreys, Frank Wetherell, Jim Gaun, Todd Applewhite, Brent Fogelberg, John Rapp, and I believe even Bobbly Wobbly (aka caveman bob, squab, bibbly ... you don't know Flag if you don't know Bob!), Even myself (Rand Black = R.B.)cranked a few cams out for Steve to the tunes of THE THE, Soul Mining, ad NAUseum! (haha get the NAU joke?)
"TIME TO MAKE THE UNITS." (think of to the tune of Dunkin Donuts)
These cams still work great to this day, as long as you squirt a little bit of WD40 on them before you do a wall.
Hasta~
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Nice to see this one bumped with real posts. Along with a bunch of great brand new wires, we bootied a couple WB units off the Nose right around 1988 or so - PTPP, you should have just gone up there and got some free. But I was never quite as enamored as many other posters. Seemed to me the curve of the logarithmic spiral of the cams was too tight, thus, very secure but not enough range. Very solid unit though, still have mine (as any self-respecting pirates would, we split the booty). I have another really crappy TCU from I can't remember what shop that's got way too shallow curves, never thought that thing would hold a fall at all.
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arsenalcrater
Trad climber
Vista, CA
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Hey Geno!
It is good to see you chime in on this thread! I was wondering what happened to you when linkupgear.com was no longer available. I believe the last I talked to you was at the PBC; you and your wife had just finished a nine day push up Denali. Do you ever hear from Michael Davis or Derek Bontreger? Anyways, good to hear from you.
Cheers,
Arsenal
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Bonjour Jaybro,
Forgive my so poorly spoken English. What does as I am done with it mean
? Does it mean very soon, in the near future, when I will be an old climber and you Stephane an old collector, or the worst, never
Stephane / Nuts Museum
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You choose, i don't know, i will have that piece on my rack for adventures in the next few weeks.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Take great care of this treasure and... don't lose it in some deep wide starving cracks... I wish you a lot of fun with such a historical device.
Best wishes from Corsica,
Stephane
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kiehacker
Trad climber
Southern Sierra\\\\\\\'s CA
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Arsenal,
I have not heard from Michael or Derek since I moved to California. Last couple times I was in Flagstaff was for canyon trips. I went back to the PBC a couple times after moving...it was always good times. Between having a booth, trying to get as much climbing in as possible and the parties at night...I was usually pretty wiped out by the end of the weekend.
We absolutely love the Southern Sierras. When I climbed often, there was no shortage in the area. There is tons of rock around here. There is definitely a few lifetimes worth of virgin rock for those willing to work for it. Kayaking has taken over my free time. The steep creeks here are amazing. Rock climbing skill help a lot...I have done a few 5.9 moves while shouldering my kayak (it helps my river shoes have 5.10 rubber).
Its amazing to hear such great comments about Wired Bliss. I always loved the cams...I am glad to hear others feel the same way.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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just used my old wired bliss cam the other day. it still works better than most all of the other cams of that era. good stuff!
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kiehacker
Trad climber
Southern Sierra\\\\\\\'s CA
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Acer & Bill feel free to email me for more info.
Thanks
Geno Hacker
genehacker at mchsi dot com
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Hey Geno. Yes, I am writing an email in my best business speak. For real. Not enough time during the week while I lurk my favorite sites to brainstorm a good, big project.
I have been looking for some fun to add to my life.
Here is my bliss rack. Missing the Green FCU.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Feb 17, 2010 - 01:01am PT
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nice retro bliss rack...
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Feb 17, 2010 - 01:48am PT
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I love them. Don't want to scratch them :)
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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When and where can we buy some?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
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Three freakin' cheers!!!
Cams that don't crap out! Yahoo!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Apr 23, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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Rand:
"... only had Chouinard Stoppers ..."
Some of us had wired hexes, smc cam units,
and a few other odds and ends :-)
which did on occasion work better than the stoppers ...
But man, if we'd only had the WB a few years earlier...
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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May 14, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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bump
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| Messages 1 - 71 of total 71 in this topic |
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