| Messages 1 - 134 of total 134 in this topic |
Sewellymon
climber
.....in a single wide......
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 20, 2007 - 10:32am PT
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I expect there is a boat-load of kudos and tall tales to be shared about Mike Graham. I’ve got none, but I DO have a pair of 20 year old Gramicci shorts that will outlast me.
And Mike's got a really cool tattoo.
spewlly edit- yeah there is a ton of historical stuff in the "stonemaster", "mussy nebula" and "j-tree reunion" threads, but i was bored so decided to start another thread........
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 20, 2007 - 11:41am PT
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Yeah for Mike.... Got my first haul bag and aiders from the Gramicci factory in Ventura, sewed up on the spot by Bullwinkle.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 12:11pm PT
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Not sure of the model/names, but I have a couple pair of Gramicci pants that are the shizzle for walls! They are both a heavy canvas weave type of thing. One is doubled and super heavy weight. I use these in the winter all the time. The other pair has an upside down pocket over each knee, with velcro in the bottom. Maybe to insert foam padding for a wall? Both pairs are indestructible! Wish I could get more.
For regular cragging, I have a few pair of the normal Gramicci pants. Bomber shit!
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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Aug 20, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
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I'm waiting for a pair of the new Stonemaster manpri's to come out.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 20, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
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Mike was one of the best in his generation of Valley climbers. There were lots of great, young climbers in the early 70s, but Mike's energy, talent, and camaraderie were a standout. I only remember climbing with Mike once, with Jim, when we took the aid out of the outside face route of "Phantom Pinnacle."
He gave me my first introduction to lunging on lead. I thought he was whacked. Good, but whacked. Turned out he was just cutting edge.
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Aug 20, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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I am very excited about his new clothing line. I have been lucky enough to sneak a few peaks at what he is developing and believe that it easily will outdo his old Gramicci line.
As for appreciating the man himself... Let me say that in these modern times where there is never enough time to even breath let alone run a business, have a family, design new products: I have noticed that Mike is always there when his friends need him. I think that says a lot.
AF
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Piton Ron
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:44pm PT
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So where is the man of mystery?
Did the FA of Prodigal and the t-bird with my six strap Gramici portaledge.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 20, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
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Grahmicci
He's a one great man. He takes care of his nice family and also looks out for his friends all these years.
Yes he's a fine gentleman for sure.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 20, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
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Gramicci,
Live long & prosper noble Stonemaster.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
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werd
I need a frickin white painter paint that will last.
my A5TNF stuff only lasted 8 or 9 weekends before the knee blew out.
let's see the goods!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
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I always liked Mike G. He was a gentleman, bright, extremely friendly, talented, and had plans! Tons of talent, subtle, kind, and will go the distance!
Peter Haan
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Ouch!
climber
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Aug 20, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
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I thought that tattoo looked familiar.
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nita
climber
chico ca
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Aug 20, 2007 - 08:26pm PT
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When - Mike Graham used to hang out with Carol Degnan..........
He was such a *Babe*....I appreciate-the beauty from those memories.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Aug 20, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
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Probably the most naturally gifted of all the Stonemasters, and not afraid to run the rope either. I wish he'd write about he El Cap solo sometime.
Mike is one of my favorite human beings.
JL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 20, 2007 - 09:09pm PT
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I smell another book!!!
ok, maybe I better get off the internets.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Aug 21, 2007 - 07:08am PT
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Mike (and Rick A.) saved our butts on Tahquitz in '75 during a pretty sudden blizzard, and made it possible for us to get our injured partner to a hospital. I'm a permanent fan of both of those great guys. Can't say enough.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 21, 2007 - 09:07am PT
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One of the first times (I remember) going to Suicide was with Mike, Ed Lasly and Matt Cox in ~'74. Mike led Passtime, cruising of course, Ed was second. As Ed approached the crux he was experiencing difficulty and asked for tension. Mike encouraged Ed to hang in there while indicating that he would be lowered if tension was actually used. After all, tension was aid. I think Ed found the gumption to make it given that choice. I was more than a bit nervous while I waited for my turn.
It was a lesson in the ethics of the time that stayed with me. In those days you would at least be lowered to a good rest spot or the ground. It was WAY before the era of the hangdog!
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immanti
climber
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Aug 21, 2007 - 11:52am PT
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Yeah for Mike.
Way cool guy, I feel honored to call him my friend.
The Stonemaster line should do really well. Hope to see you again soon Mike!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 21, 2007 - 04:04pm PT
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WTF! You guys are pretty cool.
I still have the most vivid memories of climbing with all you folks Rodger, John, Ricky, Werner, Dave... Good times with best friends.
Russ too funny, glad you helped Dean hold down the fort when I was gone that summer.
Jeff, Roy, Peter, Dario and everyone thanks for the kind words.
Nita – keen memory you have, thanks
Ouch! I wear pants when I climb to avoid this happening to me.
You know, I’m about a week away from putting a FEW products on the web. It’s a focused group at first but is growing all the time. The jeans that are in their testing phase are my favorites and should follow along the following month. I really want to give you all the link now but I’ll hold off to send it to the .org members first as I migrate your logins and get delivery of the some more product.
Guess I should get back to work now that I have a deadline. You know I really like making clothing that goes to great people and gets used for something special.
Cheers
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Aug 21, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
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Bump. Mike G. is the man. Speak up ye who know. . .
JL
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Aug 21, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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Fools go where wise men fear to tread
photo Dale Bard
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Aug 21, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
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Mike is THE MAN.
My wife says so...she is still keeping alive a pair of old Gramicci climber pants from 1983 or so.
White with the ankle cuffs no less!
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Aug 21, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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Mike was surely one of the most talented Californians to step out on the stone, as Largo mentioned. Strong boulderer, bold face climber, he touched about every facet of climbing and excelled, including the climbing business.
He was one of the first of our generation to set out on a path in the "real world", having managed to reach the apex of climbing at an early age.
Someone oughta post up Meyer's black and white Yosemite Climber photo of MG bouldering in Camp - one of my favorite bouldering images ever. It really captures the focus that marks a great climber.
Kevin
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 21, 2007 - 09:50pm PT
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With Mike in Boulder one year he showed me the secrets of really good arm wrestling. He was a kind of master at it, and when I was with him, though I hardly knew him, it was as though we had been good brothers for years. Then he disappeared, went back to California, must have, but now I can hear his voice again... it makes my arm hurt...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 22, 2007 - 07:19am PT
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Bummed I never had the pleasure of meeting Mike. However, I just got a form letter via StoneMaster Gear. Feels iike we're practically brothers now.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 22, 2007 - 07:31am PT
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March 07 in JT...
Can't wait to see the clothing Mike.
Cheers,
mal
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 22, 2007 - 09:04am PT
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Great to hear from you guys.
Walleye, that was quite a pitch on the Son of Heart. Dale and I were reminiscing that one just a few weeks ago. I really appreciated you sending me a copy of Reinhard Karl’s article of his epic ascent.
Ricky D, those pants sound like they’ve seen some things. Thank your wife for keeping them alive all these years but let’s get her a new pair!
Kevin what can I say, you are hands down the coolest cat I have ever had the pleasure to know and climb with. Always relishing the moment with a grin even at risk of great peril too far out on the sharp end.
Anders, ignore the part about the LSD experimentation in that article. My mom flipped when she read that one. Thought I might influence the young kids… Right! (I think the portaledge photo was in the previous issue or the one after.)
Pat, spending the summer with Dave Brashears that year made me wish I could have spent some time under your wing. I’ll bore you with a couple of arm wrestling stories from when I was in Britain sometime. Frigin hilarious ,Don Willans was involved in one of them. Oh yeah, arm wrestling bad for the arm wouldn’t recommend it to any one.
eeyonkee, don’t cha know we’re all brothas
Malcolm thanks for posting that photo (I grabbed a copy for me). Like Tobin Sorenson there was another once in a lifetime experience.
The best part about our life style is all the amazing people you meet and have know. And it just keeps coming.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 22, 2007 - 09:39am PT
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You can always tell her you smoked, but didn't inhale. Worked for that other guy.
Hopefully those who own the copyright to Mountain won't mind occasional excerpts being reproduced on SuperTopo. I have a complete index, and all editions from #13, so it's easy to find tidbits.
The standards at SuperTopo may have to go up, if people's mothers are reading it. There are a few stories they probably don't really need to hear, too...
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:18am PT
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I want to hear that story about Whillans, Mike.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 22, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
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Ok Pat you asked for it.
I want to preference this with the fact that the two most formidable arm wrestlers I have ever met are John Long and Hugh Burton. Both of whom I have never beaten. In fact they’re like going against a brick wall falling on you. My biggest advantage was I didn’t look like I could take anybody so I left bigger opponents with a little apprehension as to the outcome. Something you can take full advantage of. So here is the short version believe it or not.
Most of our time in Wales was spent dodging rain drops and drinking a little too much Ale, but definitely in good company. We had shacked up with a friend I had met in Yosemite, a bloke by the name of Al Harris. Al lived in a little stone shack with a few rooms and a slate roof. It was pretty classic, the door headers were so low most people had to duck to get through. They had hot wired there electricity so they could skate paying the bill. This little castle of his was situated a little more than half way into this treacherous oneway loop from the town of Llanberis.
This one evening what seemed like an impromptu party started to develop. People started to filter in until it was pretty much standing room only and the only thing going on outside was the rain. I’m standing by Al having a chat and the door swings open again and Al yells “Don you made “ and he turns to me and says I want you to meet Don Whillans… cool I think, can’t wait. As I look over to the door I see this broad figure of a man walk through, not the tallest guy so he didn’t have to duck coming in. Then immediately after he was followed by guy that almost had to crawl through. My first impression was it’s Whillans body guard. It was a silly thought but the guy followed him in like a shadow. We’ll call him Haggrid since I can’t remember his name or maybe never knew it.
Al gets the both of them through the crowd and over to where my girl friend Wendy and I are standing. I was pretty stoked to be standing in front of a great mountaineer. We exchanged hello’s and I look up to see his side kick giving me the stink eye. Just as I was about to say something, Haggrid looks down at me and bursts out you’re a bloody Yank! Glancing over at Al I can see he’s a little tense and Don didn’t think much either way of the remark. In the mean time Wendy grabs my arm and tries to pull me back into my own space a little. All I can muster up in retort is “you’re a giant Brit”
Obviously they had already been drinking some and this guy was getting a little feisty and before I knew it I was back up against the stone wall wondering how I was going to get out of this escalating situation. With in ten minutes of meeting these guys Haggrid wanted to take me out side and show me some English pride.
My first experience meeting Brits in large numbers was in Chamonix a few years earlier on a trip with Rick Accomazzo so I knew that Bar Brawling was quite the norm and they usually ended one of two ways. You're best friends afterwards or someone gets pummeled. I took the tact of going for the latter.
Harris comes to my rescue not to offer I’m a cool guy and a friend but to tell the guy he better be careful because I could beat the sh#t out of him arm wrestling. Of course laughter was Haggrid’s response and a slight chuckle from Whillans. So I offered up a deal, if I gave him a run for his money perhaps we could forgo getting wet and muddy outside. Al immediately clears a space in the crowd and pulls over his little linoleum kitchen table and completes it with a couple of chairs. We sit down, get ready and Don Whillans puts his hand on ours and lets go. I was hoping this wasn’t going to be a Long or Burton type of opponent and fortunately for me I put him down in under two seconds. As I look up into Haggrid’s face I see a perplexed look but as I smiled at him his whole demeanor changes and all I hear is Whillans say Bloody Hell Al.
So for the rest of the evening My new giant buddy kept making sure I had a beer in my hand.
Al had seen me do this enough he knew he had a sure bet. He set up a few matches for me here and there and acted as bookie although I don’t remember him splitting any money with me?
A few years later I was saddened to hear of Al Harris being killed trying to drive to his house the wrong way to cut a little time off the trip.
Al Harris, the artful dodger
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 22, 2007 - 02:12pm PT
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Great story MG!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 22, 2007 - 02:21pm PT
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Hahaha!
Most excellent.
It's nice when we get this kind of storytelling on the taco.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 22, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
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Daryl also liked to arm wrestle - perhaps it's some sort of Canadian thing.
Although Hugh is quite big and tall, which gives a natural advantage. Daryl merely wrestled trees for training.
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Aug 22, 2007 - 05:18pm PT
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A grand story Michealangelo..
Reminds me of the time I arm-wrestled Kauk at the Deli in 87 or 88. 5'9 155? pds vs. 6'0 265 pds. Now, I beat that sawed off climber runt, but it took EVERYTHING I had and it took a long time. I got the victory and the worst case of tennis elbow tendonitis of my life. That was the very last time I ever arm wrestled anybody. You climber guys are deceptively strong.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Aug 22, 2007 - 06:09pm PT
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That goes straight onto the new site and I wanna hear more, Mike.
JL
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
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Told this story before in the Stonemaster stories thread, but it bears repeating, this time with pictures.
Within view of the entire campsite is the famous Pierre D’Orthaz, a solitary, glacier erratic with a rich climbing history. Imagine Camp 4 with only a single, highly- featured, 15- foot high boulder near it and you can understand how the D’Orthaz was, bar-none, the most sought after summit in the self-proclaimed World Capital of Alpinism (don’t argue, it says so on billboards as you enter Chamonix). Celebrated British climbers, such as Allen Rouse, had established first ascents on it, and it had felt the touch of every prominent British climber from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s.
Mike found a right-slanting line of holds on the overhanging north face, worked out a sequence to move his hands to the highest holds on the slanting weakness, and heel-hooked a left leg high near his hands. He then dispatched an improbable, diagonal, dynamic move up and right to a flat hold near the top of the boulder. The key was to hang on after the legs swung free, but Mike managed it and established what the Brits dubbed the “American Leaping Route.” Almost 30 years later, Scottish guide Cubby Cuthbertson (recently seen as the stunt double in the recreated climbing scenes in “Touching the Void”) cited it in his online climbing column as one of his early inspirations.
Ready, aim,
Fire.
Englishman John Sheard wrote a clever article about the Pierre bouldering that summer in the now-defunct Crags Magazine. Here’s what he reported about Gramicci and his problem.
“Smiles faded from the faces of [British] experts as they compared their slowly browning, skinny bodies with those of the bronzed, muscled, Californian giants who started to invade their preserve. Jaws dropped when the slow, powerful, one-armed pullups were seen and many had to rush off to the Nationale to think how these aliens could be outwitted. “Ya gotta be into leaping, man” was the advice for second ascent the Right Hand Variant of the Super Direct North Face Route. One week’s training and thinking in the south of France allowed the advice to be taken and honour was temporarily saved. Still the boulder remains the preserve of the British since we score over our continental rivals by using extra aid points on each route—our feet!”
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Blinny
Trad climber
NWMontana
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Aug 22, 2007 - 08:10pm PT
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Ahhhhhhhhhhh. . . that LittleSunnyJim!
The memories. . . the fondest of memories!
oxoxox
BrockWoman
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Aug 22, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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Rick A
Priceless!! Absolutely priceless those photos are. A great contribution to the Grammici thread. Keep em comin boys and girls..
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 22, 2007 - 09:48pm PT
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Great stories, everyone, especially yours, Mr Graham.
-Jello
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 22, 2007 - 09:52pm PT
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Largo, thanks but I might have writers block coming on. Glad you all liked that one it was a priceless evening.
Yes Walter, Kauk is quite the powerhouse. Oddly it’s his left arm that kicks ass so be forewarned.
Rick that was a good problem. My memory tells me you bagged the second on that one. Those young Scottish climbers in the foreground became my partners on some good routes back on their home turf a few years later. I never fully caught the John Sheard comments. Those were pretty funny. I eluded to a few of those Bar Nationale nights in the Whillans account. The place was like something out of gunsmoke. Even the best of friends would duke it out for fun there.
Chamonix, fun place, serious though…
Hugs and kisses eKat!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
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Mike, good story. I guess I thought you were going to get a lesson from Whillans, though, or give him one. You can be proud of me. After taking lessons from you at arm wrestling, I began to start understanding those leverage principles, etc.. Not too long after you were in Boulder (some few years later) I began to get pretty good at it myself. One night at a party no less than about ten people challenged me, and every single one was much taller than I and bigger. Three of them were weight lifters and real powerhouse types. Two were very tall and strong basketball players. I won every match! They were all amazed. I felt I was honoring my mentor and almost wrote you. That experience made me pretty cocky, I suppose, and only a month or so ago I challenged one of my black belts to an arm wrestling match. He is several inches shorter than I and much lighter but hugely fit (in Sherman's words, "a honed tooling machine"). He can go right into the splits and then place his chest flat on the floor, very flexible. Though I am much more practiced at karate, he is young and did a lot of wrestling. He's strong! With those tricks you taught me, I thought he would be easy prey, but I couldn't budge him an inch. He had a real understanding of arm wrestling. I finally gave up, because if I weakened even the tiniest he would have torn my shoulder off. We stayed there for a good five minutes, an eternity it seemed, neither giving ground, but he having what seemed endless endurance, so I conceded. I am getting old, I guess, or maybe I need more lessons...?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:09pm PT
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These arm wrestling stories remind me of the time my brother Greg ruined Bob Carmichael's arm in a bar in Boulder after they wrapped-up shooting on the film Outside the Arena.
Greg weighed about 150 and didn't look very strong. But his strength was explosive, and he was privy to the secrets of martial arts and arm-wrestling. After a number of shots of tequila, the film partners were feeling competitive (as usual). Bob, the heavily-muscled ex-football player and iron jockey in the John Long, Steve Petro mold, challenged Greg to a match.
The first round with right-hands was over in a flash, with Carmichael claiming foul - Greg had somehow cheated - jumped the gun. So with the left hand, Greg agreed to start slowly, applying pressure gradually until both contestants had signalled the ref that they were ready to go. Greg nodded his head first, then Bob, and the ref shouted GO.
In less than a second there was a loud POP that could be heard throughtout the pub, and Carmichael was moaning and writhing in agony.
When he was younger, Greg had something of a chip on his shoulder, and seemed to enjoy pulling those kinds of stunts on people. By his early thities he had thankfully mellowed out a whole lot. He's now a complete teddy bear.
-Jello
NOTE: my memory of the event is second hand and may be imperfect. I did witness enough events of this sort to vouch for the basic truth of it, though.
Incidentally, Greg made the first ascent of Clever Lever in Eldo the next day. He hadn't climbed in almost a year (other than film-making) and was hungover. It was one of the earliest 5.12's in the area. Greg thought it was like a moderate boulder problem.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:17pm PT
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Jeff-
I believe I was there with Kevin Donald When Bobby's arm popped. That's a sound you don't forget. KD probably told you the story.
I was also with Greg the first day he tried The Clever Lever. Almost got it the first day.
Greg is one badass teddy bear.
Can we hear the one about the buildering and the cowboys yet?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 22, 2007 - 11:26pm PT
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So the basic story is true, then, Kevin? I thought so. But these days I can never be certain of my memories.
I really don't want to tell the story about Greg and the cowboys. It's like a bad dream. Best forgotten...only I can't seem to forget.
It all happened in another lifetime - long ago.
-DriftingJello
Now, back to celebrating Mike Graham
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youngharz
Boulder climber
Carpinteria
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Aug 23, 2007 - 02:44pm PT
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Mike,
A friend of mine recently gave me a barely used, yellow and blue portaledge and fly. There's a Gramicci tag on it and it Looks really solid even though it's probably as old as I am! I hope to put good use to it soon.
-Erik
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 23, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
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Pat glad you were able to put some of that schooling to use. Bridwell showed me that wrist break move (and I don’t mean bone break) when he and I would have a go it usually lasted quit a while probably 5+ minutes and that does seem like an eternity. He would try and play dirty too!
Jeff my ears did catch wind of you brother doing that. Ouch! I’ve heard stories of bones shattering and such. If I tried this today I’m afraid I would be one of those stories.
Erik, hope it serves you well. I would be curious to know if it has a serial number near one of the ends. It would tell us how old it is. It could be you were just in diapers when I made it.
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Aug 23, 2007 - 05:49pm PT
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Well Mike your up to 49 posts so far. You are flying up the charts on the "Hit Parade of Love"
You made me remember that Kauk was left handed and that is how we dueled. I had totally forgot about that and now I am even more proud of myself (I am right handed). Of course I would not take him on now as it might make me look bad.
Also, were you over in Europe when Ed Barry and Bob Ashworth were there?
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Aug 23, 2007 - 06:08pm PT
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Allright Buddy! Just to get you to #50....
Photo: George Myers
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 23, 2007 - 06:19pm PT
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Indeed Graham's the man!
One of the best natural climbers I've ever seen and also one of the best dime edge masters ever.
Plus he's just a plain old super cool dude!
Cheers bro, jb
Butt bags and swami belts...Mike and Tobin on "Insomnia Crack"....
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 23, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
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who showed his mettle and led the lunge on Phantom pinnacle?
from Mountain, way back
cheers Mike!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
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Jeff, You know you are my buddy, so what I am about to say is no slam on you at all, but possibly to clarify. Greg spoke with me about Clever Lever, and of course you know I took some photos of him trying it on another day, etc. He never thought it was "like a moderate boudler problem." He found it quite taxing, he told me, as evidenced by the fact that he didn't do it that first day. He certainly would have done a moderate boulder problem in short order. But of course that he did it at all speaks to the subject of his tremendous talent, of which we are all aware. He always told me his martial art training was judo, just as a small aside. One could be a reasonably good martial artist and not be a good arm wrestler. Anyway all these strong guys, such as Graham and Greg and Long and Bachar... made me a bit jealous, since I was so naturally weak in most respects...
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Aug 24, 2007 - 08:39am PT
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More pictures!
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Sewellymon
climber
.....in a single wide......
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2007 - 08:52am PT
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i snaked this off the stonemaster.org site
Graham, Accomazzo, France,'76
would love to hear more about adventures in the footsteps of Bonatti, et al
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 24, 2007 - 09:18am PT
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Ha Ha Ha, check out those boots. When that sweater I had got wet it would weigh eighty pounds!
Didn’t seem like Ricky though, those missed matched socks?
Thanks JB, Tobin was the man that day I think it was the second ascent. I remember we broke that pitch up for the photographer. Something about his artistic eye. It really made it a nuisance though.
Good to hear you Ray! I’m looking for a production manager for a pack co. in SF if you know of any one?
Walleye, I’m already fifty let’s not push it. That Meyers photo haunts me. I had just got off the Captain after shivering for 4 days straight losing near 25 lbs. I was way too thin!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Aug 24, 2007 - 10:14am PT
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Walleye: Thanks for the George Meyers photo of Mike bouldering, certainly a contender for the most iconic image of the "Stonemaster Era."
And that's how I remember Mike Graham; original, intuitive and balanced. In a world championing quick gratification and surface apprehension, Mike always seemed to possess a patient wisdom, a fascinating business plan and the kind of intelligence which perceives and reasons well below the surface.
It's ironic to read Rick's illustrated story of the "leaping" Chamonix boulder problem because Mike's edge-savvy chops, his gorgeous static techniques, were buttery and dripping, and made anybody want to bake bread.
Thank you Mike, for your soulbrotha' fidelity, and confident leaderHip, and not least, for calling and inviting me to the Taco. Bruce Adams
P.S. Mike and Ricky- I can't quite get over the pub fisticuffs thing...
Did the Brit climbers sport missing teeth and eye-patches, along with the apparent brain damage? Was it an alchey thing or working class "culture," or both? I'm looking forward to reading the Perrin bio of Whillans, but I bet others would also love some comments along those lines from you guys.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Aug 24, 2007 - 10:41am PT
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Mike,
Would just like to say hi. You are the man. My wife would like to say you are a real looker too.
Great story telling and history. The magazine article and images from the thread from this gone by post are one of my favorite. I will always cherish this magazine with you and Tobin in it. It was my first climbing periodical that I ever purchased.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=164782&msg=165415#msg165415
Can't wait for your new line of clothing. I hope you are going to come up with a type of pants that can be used all around for climbing, BC skiing, and paragliding . . . remember our discussion way back when on supertaco (hint, hint, hint)?? My Lands End type pants are blowing out. They can't hang on much longer.
Anyway, I'm sure your clothing line will be wonderful and very successful and I would like to be one of the first to line up and purchase and wear some.
Klimmer
PS,
Brunosafari,
I would like to post some images I have of George Tabler climbing up at Woodson with me and attach it to the Woodson Shin Dig thread. However, they are in B&W negative form at the moment and someday soon I would like to get into my HS photolab where I teach and print them and post them up. I'm very busy at the moment with another involved project, but it is on my "to do" list. I promise eventually I will do this.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Aug 24, 2007 - 10:51am PT
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Same here Klimmer!--I'm the epitome of trad photo consciousness and will join you with some woodson photo posts when I'm next in "computer puzzle mode."
As for Mike's enviable good looks, I've been waiting for somebody to call him:
Legolas?
or Aragorn?
Which is it?
BA
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 24, 2007 - 12:37pm PT
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Bruce thanks for all that. Rick had a pretty good story here once about the Pub. We were both casually sitting having a beer when a brawler few across our table. Not to spill a drop we both lifted our glasses in perfect unison and finished our conversation after the feet had passed.
I don’t want to make it sound like this is a common occurrence for the British because I have the utmost respect for all that I have ever meet. But what is it with them all breaking into song while they drink? It just funny!
I don’t know if Rick has the time to tell the story about the Scottish “Bott'le” trick because he’s getting on a plane to go surfing. If not I’ll muster it up later.
Kilmmer I do look but my wife’s pretty quick to punch me, but at least she’s smiling when she does it. I haven’t forgot about your pant request and I do have a synthetic pant in the works for later this Fall. I hope that will satisfy the needs of a few of you that contacted me personally.
And Bruce if I really did look like any of those guys my wife would really be smiling when she came home tonight!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Aug 24, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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Mike - Toby Keith, the country singer has a nice line for you to use with your wife:
"I'm not as good as I once was,
but I'm as good once as I ever was!
Bruce
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Aug 24, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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Mike - Toby Keith, the country singer has a nice line for you to use with your wife:
"I'm not as good as I once was,
but I'm as good once as I ever was!
Bruce
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 24, 2007 - 03:39pm PT
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I remember that photo of Mike and Tobin on Insomnia, that John posted. It was in Summit (Off Belay?) in about 1973. Sadly I've lost that issue, but the photo essay left an impression. If I remember rightly, someone wrote to the magazine afterward, saying they hadn't really done the route, because they'd belayed in the middle of a hard bit or something. Ignoring that they'd climbed it previously in one pitch, and were doing it for the camera. Anyway, the usual silliness.
Which is an elaborate way of saying bump.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 24, 2007 - 05:20pm PT
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I watched Mike do a thin roof problem that Mari then fell off of.. i thought geez Mike!
we know about the climber, but here are a couple of thoughts about the man.
Mike was sewing harnesses for the diamond C, and sewing ledges, selling them one at a time. I was buying climbing gear for sport chalet, and wanted to have Mike's ledges to sell. I called Mike, and we talked and over the course of a week or two, I suggested he start selling his products to retail stores whereby he could eventually sell much more than he would be able to do in direct sales. Mike agreed, he started wholesaleing ledges, and then other products... the rest is history.
Many years later, Art of Climbing was burglarized three times in one year, with the last being a 98% removal. I had about 50K in debt, and paid vendors as I could over the next 15 years. Some were Glad to get the money when it came, some cursed, some hung up the phone when they heard I did not have money or merchandise.
Mike Graham is not a greedy man. When I called to pay, as just few others had done, he let me slide on what I owed him. Maybe he figured it was a small % discount on all business done with him over the years, but I think of $800.00 in cold cash he could have stuck in his pocket... He thought about the fact that I had been ripped off in the first place, and he helped me out.
Put Mike Graham in the close to Tom Frost category.
Ed
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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Bruce- nice tribute, loved the quote.
Mike-Will save more tall tales for later, but as requested, here are more Mike photos:
A clearer shot of Mike and me starting the hitchike from Cham to Switzerland, if I remember correctly. Note that the socks are not mismatched, just caught me with one leg of my knickers (american usage) down.
Mike leading the second free ascent of Green Arch at Tahquitz, 1975, on the same day we helped out Mooser’s party, as mentioned above.
Retreating in the rain from an attempt at a new route, Aiguille de Blaitere,1976.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 24, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
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Great pics Rick - thanks for posting.
RE:
"I’m looking for a production manager for a pack co. in SF if you know of any one? "
sorry Mike I'm kinda out of the loop these days - too busy hugging trees :)
cheers guys -
great thread.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Aug 24, 2007 - 08:51pm PT
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Hey Rick, thanks for posting that shot! Muy nostalgic for me!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 24, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
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The Green Arch!
You really have some nice photos of the good stuff Ricky.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 25, 2007 - 08:25am PT
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Bruce, the song fits thanks!
Bruce, the song fits thanks!
I don’t know Anders in today’s stanch traditional values we may not have done Insomnia THAT day. I want to correct myself to, it was the Third ascent (sort of I guess) Largo had done the second. Can’t believe I forgot the details Jim Erikson had done the FFA. Which I actually witnessed and it was beautiful. I learned a lot that day and I didn’t even climb.
Ed Thanks, How you sitting for cash right now? Just kidding, cheers
Rick I stand corrected I can see the fashion statement now. One leg tucked in. I don’t think I ever saw that photo of the Green Arch, wow piton hammer and a couple of nuts. The beta must have been “check the fixed pins” I remember the snow coming just after we finished it.
Thanks for sharing those
Mike
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Aug 25, 2007 - 05:26pm PT
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Bruce-there weren’t fights every night at the Bar Nationale , but over the course of two summers there, we were entertained by several. The best one started inside, was corralled by the management who pushed the pugilists toward the street, continued out the door, and ended with the loser tossed into the fountain in the square! Remember that, Mike?
The source of these fights was, as far as I could tell, regional rivalries, much boredom because of bad weather…oh and I almost forgot, massive quantities of beer.
Mike, you’ll have to refresh my memory on the bottle trick!
A facet of Mike that not everyone knows is that he is loves helicopters. His interest piqued by rides around the Valley for Yosar rescues, Mike ended up owning and piloting his own. We had a fun experience involving helicopters in the Alps in the summer of 1976.
Snell Field in Chamonix was adjacent to the helicopter base for the French mountain rescue service. These guys were, and are to this day, very, very busy. We watched them flying over our tent 4 or 5 times a day for weeks. One rest day, Mike and I decided to try to snag a ride in one of the fine, jet-powered Allouettes they flew.
We combed our hair, put on our cleanest shirts and walked over to the office of the air Gendarmarie. As we walked in, we got a glare from the guy behind the desk that only a seasoned French beaurocrat can generate. I could speak a little French, so I did the talking. I introduced Mike and me, explaining that were Visiting Rescue Professionals From Yosemite, USA. The bureaucrat went outside and got a couple of the pilots and crew members. These guys warmed up immediately when they found out that the scruffy looking long-hairs really had been on some rescues. We explained the basic Yosemite technique at that time: get to the top of the cliff and drop a rescuer on a very, very long rope to the victim. The French explained their techniques and it was impressive.
Because the peaks in the Alps are less steep and chossier than Yosemite’s walls, the French did almost all their rescues by lowering the rescuer down and hoisting the victims directly into the helicopter. They started telling rescue tales, including a harrowing incident when a rescuer was suspended by a wire from the Allouette and was about to reach the victim. The pilot got a little too close to the rock face and nicked the tip of a rotor blade. This caused the rotors to lose their equilibrium and the helicopter careened out of control toward the valley with the rescuer still suspended below. The story ended happily as the pilot gained control before it was too late, and managed a safe landing. The guy who had been hanging below for this wild ride showed us the dented rotor tip that he kept as a souvenir.
Things were going well and we quickly become comrades with the French, like Arlo Guthrie and friends on the Group W bench. We were chatting back and forth in broken French and English, comparing rescue stories, and generally having a grand old time. It was a ripe moment to pop the question.
“How about taking us up for a little demonstration ride? “
“Bien sur!” the pilot replied. Mike and I glanced at each other and tried not to smile.
The pilot went back to the office, while we waited to climb into a beautiful, sleek,, blue model nearby , but he came back with bad news. We had been foiled by the French beaurocracy; the pilot had called headquarters and had been overruled. We were really disappointed, but I got a few good photos of the ground tour. I’ll edit this and post them when I get a chance.
These days, Mike doesn’t have to ask anyone when he wants a helicopter ride.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Aug 25, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
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Great story about helicopters.
Anyone who flys and pilots! helicopters has my respect. Helicopters --- A billion pieces that all have to work flawlessly at high velocities where anything can happen. "Hey, Mac what was that bolt that just went flying off?" They kind of scare me, and I fly paragliders!
Hey, I guess someone has to do it. If I ever need one for a rescue someday (hopefully not, knock on wood and all . . .) I'll be wearing my emergency reserve parachute :-))
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Blinny
Trad climber
NWMontana
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Aug 25, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
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hugs and kisses back to you Sunny!
:-)
eKatOldDadBrockWoman
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 25, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
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There’s that portaledge photo I forgot it was in the same issue. Thanks SG
Yeah Rick we almost bagged that ride for sure. To bad for bosses
The brawl that was ushered outside was started when a parlor trick went south. It was a large table and pretty segregated, Scots on one end and English mostly on another. Might have been even oriented like their island country is in general. Scotland to the north and such.
Sitting around the border area in the middle of the table this Scotsman picks up an empty wine bottle and starts twirling it around a bit getting everyone’s attention next to him who were mostly English. I’m watching from a table away as he lays the bottle flat on the table and says “10 francs no one else can do this” this perked up a few other ears. With the bottle laying flat he puts each of his thumbs on each side of the neck and slowly lifts the bottle into the air keeping it levered horizontally perfect. He proceeds to keep it there for 5-10 seconds and lowers it back down. Some of his buddies cheer him on and there are a few hand claps.
This one Englishman sitting across thinks that’s a piece of cake and takes on the bet. He goes through this little ritual get ready for it, cracking the knuckles and such and then fails miserably in his attempt. Flustered he tries a few more times. Still no luck the Scots are starting to laugh. The performer of the stunt demands the 10 francs and the Englander say “piss off it’s a trick” the Scottish climber looks him straight in the eye and very seriously says “ITS KNOT A TRICK” in the thickest accent you can picture. He was so incensed that this bloke couldn’t see it was his pure technique that managed this he repeats himself several more times “ITS KNOT A TRICK”…now it’s a huge argument IT IS, ITS NOT and everyone’s fixed on it.
There was no way this guy was going to fork up the money but it wasn’t about that any more. It was the Scots vs the English so the loser reaches across the table pulls the so called trickster over the top and both start rolling on the floor. From what I remember the Scottish lad was a little smaller and wasn’t holding his own too well so a few of his buddies had to kind of help him out and that was it. All in all probably tame compared to east LA today where someone would get shanked over a lesser trick but these guys knew they all had to get along the next evening in the same place.
As the last few folks followed the skirmish outside the owner locks the door to the bar and we’re all out in the street with no where else to go.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 25, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
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Hahahaha great stories Rick and Mike.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 25, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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I guess my life would not be complete without having experienced Snell's Field, the Bar Nationale and the sea of blue. I never witnessed a brawl, but if I'd been there longer, I'm sure I'd have ended up in one for some reason or other. Beaucoup biere!
Aside from brawls, please share a tale of another adventure with Ricky and pals. You've both posted some real gems.
Can't wait until your new line is available, Mike. Long time fan of those fine comfortable cotton products.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Aug 28, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
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Tying up a loose end from above, here are the photos from the rescue tour.
Left to right, rescuer, me, and the pilot (you can always tell a pilot: they invariably have leather jackets). Photo by MG.
Another shot of the coveted bird.
Responses to various comments above:
-Yes, Sheard was actually the third to do the "leaping route."
-It all came back to me after you described the bottle trick. I can hear the Scot bellowing, "It's naugh uh trick!"
-On the arm wrestling technique, I faintly remember that I may have taught it to Bridwell in the summer of 1975. I can't recall who showed it to me, but I remember Bridwell's look of amazement when my scrawny arm pinned his muscular one on a Tuolumne picnic table.
Glad to hear Mimi and others enjoyed the adventures with Mike; they're fun to revisit.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 30, 2007 - 01:25pm PT
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Bump
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 30, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
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Thanks for the bump Ed.
Mimi, I’ll come up with a climbing story but first I want to follow up with this photo after Rick’s heli shots. This photo really turns heads, recommended equipment during this flight is a Barf bag.
Thanks for the comments folks. As far as clothing we have some climbing pants instock now. Mimi, we’re having good luck fitting women in the smaller sizes so don’t be afraid to give the knickers a try
[url=http://www.stonemastergear.com]
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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Wow! Do you teach people how to use PhotoShop? (nyuk nyuk)
I've spent several hundred hours in helicopters, but never in one that's done the trick in that photo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 07:48am PT
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Hey Mike,
Any chance that you still have one of the original bolt hangers from the Salathe bolt clearing episode? I have a notion to replace the original thirteen bolt positions used on the FA with numbered stainless replica hangers. If you have one of the old aluminum strap hangers please post a photo. Did Royal demand to have the whole show back along with your hammer after the affair? Still makes me laugh to ponder that scene.....
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
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Yeah Anders I actually photoshoped out the rope from that helicopter shot. hehe
Steve don’t know what happen to those bolts. May have thrown them away because they were unnecessary as you know :-) Nobel cause to restore the route to the ordinal 13 or what ever it was. If you want to replicate them I do remember a Robbins bolt on the Vampire down here in SoCal.
A few weeks before we all did the FFA Tobin Sorenson and I did the route in all its glory at 5.9 A4. I really loved to Aid climb in those early days because of where it would put you. One of its very few bolts was stamped “RR” and was Aluminum to give you an idea of what to make. Glad to have done all the great aid lines because after they went free they were free lines. At least that was just how we thought back then with no intention of offending anyone.
I remember when we finished the vampire that day we drove back to lake Hemet where my parents were camping and sat around in the shade and had some ice tea and watched my Dad catch tiny fish. We talked about what a great route that was without a care for what lay ahead.
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L
climber
The beach, Baby...the beach
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Aug 31, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
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I met Graham The Legend a little over a year ago up at Whitney Portal, and talk about a surprise. One would expect a Stonemaster with a famous clothing company under his belt to be...well...you know, somewhat above us hoi polloi.
What I found instead was a genuinely nice guy who can (and will) talk to anyone, a climbing legend who still loves to climb, an awesome father with a son who idolizes him, and an astute businessman whose new clothing line is going to have not just men gaga over the manpris. (Yes Mike...I'm still patiently waiting for a pair like Waugh was wearing!)
Mike kept us laughing throughout the evening with stories told from a perspective of good humor and authentic humility, and although I don't know him well, I have to agree with Largo and admit he's one of my favorite people, too.
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Aug 31, 2007 - 08:12pm PT
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Well Michealangelo you've made 84 thus far on the hit parade of love. However, you have a solid if not gushing endorsement from THE Mistress L which is the equivalent of hitting the top 100. She sounds like she actually expected you to be a some kind of super-stud dickwadd or something...
Congratulations!!!! BEWARE though, do not cross her, or you will be slaving away serving her every twisted, sick, kinky whim. She is a stringent taskmistress and does not take kindly to comments about her age or lack thereof.
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Aug 31, 2007 - 08:57pm PT
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Man, this thread gets better by the minute. Mike looks like some snowy woolen sheep in that last photo.. LMAO!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 31, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
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I can't see you, Mike, as anything other than that handsome kid who visited me in Colorado. Have you aged at all? Was that you standing next to Kevin in the photo way back thread? Then you would have "evolved," as have I.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Hi Pat,
I think you have me mixed up with Michael Reardon. There may be a slight resemblance, but I'm the one who climbs with a rope. RIP to MR.
Live it up, fill your cup, drown your sorrows
And sow your wild oats while you may
For the toothless old tykes of tomorrow
Are the tigers of yesterday.
 Tom Patey
Nothing slows the aging process better than a day on the rock.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Thanks Laura, it’s nice to be appreciated. Between you and me, if I were Mormon I’d ask you to marry me!
A month or so back my son Ian and I took a tour on a few classics at the old stomping ground. We really enjoy climbing together but this day Royal Robbins was his idle. He couldn’t believe he free climbed this route back in 1959. We both speculated what kind of boots he must have been wearing and what it must have been like. “The Open Book” pushing the grade almost 50 years ago.
Watch it Walleye, you’re getting me excited talking about L like that.
Pat, I haven’t aged one bit. At least on the inside. You must be referring to the Malcom’s photo up thread? That was my friend Michael Reardon, Kevin didn’t have a hair stylist and besides I’m big but I wouldn’t be taller than him. But yes we do evolve brother.
Edit: Kevin you beat me to it. I was maybe going to have some fun with that one.
Ricky, thanks for keeping me lookin young. Amazing memories climbing with you and it wasn't that long ago we got out on the rocks.
Cheers
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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They Mike,
Got any pictures/memories of your time down under?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Top of Half Dome,circa 1973 after doing the regular route.
Gib Lewis, me and Mike. Photo by Ed Lasley, who hiked up to meet us and brought the beer. Thanks again, Ed.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Italian Face, Corona del Mar.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thank you for the stories.
"I rapped down backwards with my scarf over my eyes." !!!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Sorry Kevin, I just made a quick glance at the photo, and Michael was blonde, and I had remembered you blonde or slightly reddish, and so in memory something switched or got warped. But that was indeed Mike next to Michael? OK. Good. This has been a fun thread...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I really like the blindfolded disclaimer too! Was that the first trip that you had a chance to use RP's?
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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You’re welcome Ander’s.
About the blindfold. Never had the opportunity to try it again, hooks or wiring something on a top rope became the more excepted method to maintain a ground up style (not that the latter is). Preserving the unknown was paramount for us at the time and that bolt placement was an experiment in how to deal with unprotectable routes.
Steve, Actually used RP’s first in Britain a few years earlier but they were really hard to find. Somewhere around the middle of my first trip to Australia I stopped off in Melbourne at Roland Pollock’s House and bought a couple of sets. It was a really cool set up he had in a shed out in his back yard where he made them. A little crude and reminded me of my nut making several years earlier. But he did take it to a new level with the silver soldering. He was also a bee keeper and in the same shed he had all this honey processing equipment that was all home made as well. With every purchase you got a jar of the best honey from his bees in the Grampians, another great climbing area Victoria.
It was kind of bitter sweet for me when Chouinard Equipment started making similar nuts as RP’s but Rolland never had a great ambition to be a world manufacture of hardware. He just kept a simple life thriving with two things he really enjoyed. Climbing and Bee’s
I still have those RP’s on my rack to this day, well except for the 0’s… Psychological protection is a thing I try to avoid these days, those little guys are just a novelty to show my kids.
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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I had a roommate in Yosemite Valley named Mike Perkins and he worked at the Mountain Shop until 1988. Mike was not a climber because he had a congenital heart defect that came with him from birth. What his heart lacked in strength and durability was made up for in volume via kindness and love. Mike Perkins died while being my roommate when his heart finally gave out.
We had a memorial in Santa Cruz and Yosemite Valley. Mike was cremated and I kept a big handful of his ashes with his sisters blessing. At this point in time I had not yet climbed El Capitan, but I knew that when I did I would takes Mikes ashes up the climb and scatter them from the route in tribute to him and the fact that could never climb the big stone himself.
I did the Salathe Wall on my two days off from work in August of 89........ I forgot to bring the ashes!!!!
While on the Salathe, Schultz and I looked across the great granite expanse and saw a lonely 1 gallon water jug clipped in at an anchor to the right of some huge left facing corners. I asked Dave "what the hell route is that" and he replied "Son Of Heart, I've always wanted to do that thing".
Next spring in April, Dave and I were nailing our way up the Son of Heart. On the second night we portaledged deep in the recess of the heart itself one pitch below the roof that leads to the Heartbreak Hotel. From my ledge that night in that great stone heart indentation, I released Michael's Perkins ashes. I also released a lot of old emotions and life was GREAT.
I tell this story because Mikes ashes were carried in a plastic bag that had this label that said Gramicci on it. I had a pair of Grahams rock pants size XL and still had the bag with the zip lock top. I used this bag to transport my good friends ashes up El Cap for his final journey. It wasn't until later when I started figuring out who had done the Son of Heart before us that I found out that Mike Graham had done the second ascent with Dale Bard. I had met Gramicci in the Mountain Room Bar in the mid 80's when Bacher introduced us, but we never met again.
There are all these disparate connections in life that happen to me, and I think they are a few of the things that make life very interesting. Reinhard Karl did Son of Heart. Mike Graham knew Reinhard Karl and so on. So Mike, here's to you and all these great stories about you that I get to read. You have had a lot of great adventures, met a lot of great and interesting people, and have done a lot of climbing along the way. I'm glad to have made your acquaintance even if it is in the most vicarious of ways.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Great tales all! RP's revolutionized my climbing by opening up the world of clean incipience. Once BD put out the steelnuts, the available range was amazing because both lines complemented and overlapped perfectly. When they morphed into micro stoppers all that utility went away despite my constant whining at the trade show reps. I have probably as much time on microwires as anyone and love that #0 especially! Always room for that little brass tidbit.
Walleye- which philospher/chimney was your favorite on Son of Heart?
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Walter, that was a beautiful story. Even having know of your ascent of the Son Of Heart your connection to it is complete for me now. Mike Perkins was fortunate to have a friend like you.
Steve you can have those 0’s! I never used those for Aid, I bet they would be the ticket though. The Hugh Bannor versions were interesting although a bit radical in shape. Seemed to fit nicely in a pin scar the best. All variations of the original RP
I figure there is no age limit to these things Right?
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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"Walleye- which philospher/chimney was your favorite on Son of Heart?"
That would be the hard scary one named after the Danish hunchback. And like Graham, there was NO WAY I was gonna lead that thing. Well actually, Mike could have led it but chose not to. I could not have led and still chose not to..... I guess most people now just aid the thing which was not an option back in those days.. Go figure.
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captain chaos
climber
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Hi Mike, when you going to join me for some turns in Namaste land? Craig
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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As miserable as Soren Kierkegaard's scene is protrayed, the connection seems appropriate. What do you think, Werner? You sampled the suffering.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Craig!
I don’t know, can you snowboard on that stuff? And how fast are you really going there in that photo 70-90 or more?
So it’s Katmandu in March or April i guess
Mike
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WBraun
climber
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Craig
I think we need to put the 220 long boards on and tuck it!
Hehehehe remember that day in Mammoth, you me and McKinney on that windy ass day?
Hehehehe
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captain chaos
climber
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Mike, for sure you can snowboard it... two turns top to bottom and your done. As for how fast I was going in that pic, well... lets just say I had about 1,500 vertical meters of an wide open face with perfect spring snow sitting in front of me... I think I made about 5 or 6 turns on the entire face, the bases on my skis were blistering hot at the bottom.
Werner, what a great memory you brought back to me. I remember that day, you, McKinney and me screaming on the boards in Mammoth wild winds and all, what a great and wild day... As for putting the 220's on and tucking this one, that would be cool, only one problem though, no out run... but, I do know where some are though-
Anyway, I hope to see the two of your guys in Nepal for some turns, we would have a great time, not to mention the fact that you deserve it.
Mike, March is best, hell you can even fly one of our birds if you want, that would be pretty cool... you ever fly a B-3?
Miss you guys, tu hermano- Craig
PS
What do you think Mike, you ready to do some flying in this place?
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Craig, how high can those copters go in those mountains? I guess I was under the impression they can only go so high before they have no air to support the blades... or some such? But I know nothing. Those are some great photos...
Pat
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captain chaos
climber
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Pat, it depends on the chopper, we have landed as high as 6,000 meters with an AS350 B-2... but only with one person and pilot. With the MI 17 (the one is this photo) we can land at 5,500 meters with 10, their great birds, but admittedly scary looking, my comparison is a Winnebago with wings-
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Craig I’m there!
The only Eurocopter that I have flown is the BO 105 upthread doing the roll. I know I could get a few hours in a B2 before coming but you won’t catch me landing at those altitudes. By the way, It was a B3 that landed on top of Everest a few years back. That’s the kind of record you can’t break.
It would be good to Shanghai Werner. Wouldn’t be much fun for you guys waiting an hour or so for me to finally get down each run.
I always wanted to fly a Winnebago though.
I’ll drop you an email
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captain chaos
climber
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Cool, for sure you have to grab Werner... he would love it there, Bachar is wanting to make it over as well, it would be pretty cool if we were all over there together. By the way, no worries about the waiting thing, we would be on our own and could cruise as we like. The Winnebago with wings is a wild machine, the things can fit 24 people!!! you can stand up in them and walk from the one end to the other, their big, really big, but powerful. They have two beefy twin engines that crank, the pilots we use for the MI-17's are these ex military Russian pilots, their pretty bad ass.
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captain chaos
climber
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Here's a shot of us getting out of the Winnebago with wings that's nosed in at around 5,500 meters... like I said, these guys are bad ass pilots-
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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That's unreal Craig!
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captain chaos
climber
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It is, especially when you consider the size of these things, the altitude and winds at the time, its pretty much pushing the envelope...
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Ah Mike, I just noticed this highly important thread and wanted to add my thanks for your friendship and especially the mentorship that you offered to us greenhorn teens.
And by the way, you are still the most natural climber I've ever known.
S
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 20, 2007 - 10:44am PT
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Bump for bvb.....
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Alex Perry
Trad climber
California
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Sep 20, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
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Is there no way to ride a helicopter, or coast it, if the propeller stops turning? I hear of all these crashes in Iraq. I mean, a plane can sort of float without its engines. Is any such thing possible (even a small bit) with the helicopter? What if the engine just chokes and dies? Do you die? I heard Peter O'Toole talk one day on some tv program about a helicopter trip he took somewhere to the top of maybe one of the highest waterfalls in the world, in maybe South America. They landed on some small slab of rock sticking out near the top of the falls. In order to take off, the pilot had to lean the copter off the edge of the rock and let it begin falling before he started the propeller. Sorry this isn't on topic.
I once arm wrestled Ament and got my butt kicked. I thought I was strong. He told me he learned how to do it from Mike Graham.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 21, 2007 - 09:20am PT
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Spencer good to see you here, Thanks for that.
Alex, on topic for me.
It is true that if your rotors STOP turning there is NO way to get them going again. The trick is when/if your engine stops they keep spinning do to a freewheeling clutch or sprag clutch (I hope I spelled that right).
With loss of engine power you immediately enter what’s called an autorotation which first involves lowering your “collective” control lever, if you fail to do this your blades can and will stop do to the drag of the high pitch they have during normal powered flight. this maneuver is the most trained out of any flight maneuver in both fixed wing or rotorcraft. The rub is you need to keep up your rotor rpm by either exchanging it for altitude or airspeed. Depending on your make or model your glide ratio is around 4 to 1, not the best as you’re coming down at around 1100-1500 feet per minute. To walk away from an Autorotation its best to have about 500 feet altitude and 60 kts to work with in the beginning and a clear field to set it down but can be pushed less with both depending on your skill lever. Your transition to the ground as with a parachute landing is your flare, in a helicopter you initiate it at 50-75 feet, this changes your pitch and angle of attack on your rotors and gives you an added burst of rpm’s generated as the air passes through your rotors. In a perfect scenario from your best starting altitude you can put it down with no forward movement softly, like it a tennis court or empty street. In a not so perfect case you may run it on and slide on your skids for 40-60 feet. With both of these scenarios you can have zero damage to your airframe but Don’t try this at home!
The only problem is most helicopter operations like the ones in the mts and rescues and such operate out side of this 500’ 60 kt envelope and the chart curve associated with it. Appropriately it’s called the deadman’s curve
It actually gets more complicated than we will go into it here. On a safety note though, a Bell Jet Ranger has the best per flight hour safety record of ANY single engine aircraft.
Peter O’toole is a good story teller. It can feel like that with your eyes closed.
How did Pat talk you into that challenge? I didn’t know he was that competitive. ha ha
Mike Graham, AWI (Arm wrestling instructor)
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Sep 21, 2007 - 04:45pm PT
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Craig Calonica Appreciation Thread next?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 21, 2007 - 05:20pm PT
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cap'n chaos, i assume you guys are loading in that photo? 'cause there is NO WAY i'd be chilling under the blade with wheels up and the nose punched into the snowslope...i've been a a dicey chopper ride or two, but that photo scares the shite out of me!
just read the credit edit: so you guys are off-loading? why didn't you get a safe distance from the whirlybird before you sat down and dropped gear???
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 21, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
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That ain't nothin BVB.
I can tell you chopper episodes that I've been on around the world that I'm surprised I'm still here saying this.
One time the pilot is chopping the fuking trees down with the blades to land.
Another time I jump from the ship into a waterfall a 1000 feet up and hang on vines in the steaming jungle only to have to jump back onto the ship later. No fuking safety just some dude yelling grab my hand, hahahaha.
And on and on (big chopper story spraying fest)
Yeah, I loved every minute of it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 21, 2007 - 09:52pm PT
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i hear ya werner. almost gettin' killed by by some psycho pilot hellbent on some dicey SAR mission and living to laugh about it later is WAY better than booze, and almost as good as sex...
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captain chaos
climber
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:08am PT
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bvb... the drop off takes place quickly, there's no time to do anything but get out as fast as possible, have everyone huddle in a tight spot close to the chopper where the pilot can see everyone, shut the door and wave the pilot off. Its somewhat of an tense moment, but its over quicker then you can blink, and in time you get used to it. The solution of getting away from the chopper is dangerous for several reasons, one problem is deep snow and people can't move about quickly and time is of the essence with some of these drops, the other is people would get blinded by the snow blast, hence they would not be able to see where they were going, etc. Anyway, its best just to get everyone out, sit them down, shut the door and send the pilot on his way.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:22am PT
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Captain Chaos,
Other than people flat out dying, like Carter's good buddy Paul Scannell, along with Bev and the Disney guy, one of the gnarliest chopper stories I have heard came from your close pal Steve McKinney.
I can't remember the details, I'll apologize for any inaccuracy, where was it, in Pakistan? He told me he was in a ship that went down, shot down I think; got blown clear out of it and wound up flying through the air, landing on his feet, standing stock up right in the snow, dazed and although pretty much okay, somehow he clipped the ship on ejection and got that atrophied shoulder muscle out of the deal.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:25am PT
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That was I believe in Portillo Chile Roy, during the speed skiing runs.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:29am PT
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Yes, thanks for the correction Werner.
Man that guy had the stuff.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:40am PT
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Yeah Roy
That was the most mind blower helicopter accident I've ever heard and it was straight from the source himself.
Steve said the pilot misjudged the ridge when coming in to land and just plane slammed it into the ground with Steve flying through the front bubble lexon of the chopper.
Fuked his nose up too ......
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captain chaos
climber
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Sep 22, 2007 - 10:40am PT
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Werner's right, it was in Chile but La Parva. It was during a speed skiing race, Stevie and some other racers were in the chopper on the way back up for another run and the light was flat. The pilot by what Stevie said was hot-dogging it to show his stuff too, only thing he was close to the ground and the skids caught the snow (he couldn't judge the distance due to the flat light), the chopper went straight in, the results were everyone was scattered all over the place. Surprisingly everyone walked away, but not without injury, Stevie wound up paralyzed in his left shoulder, had to have his nose sewn back on, etc. Another one broke his back badly, and others were injured as well, but Stevie got the worst of it... the whole thing was horrendous.
Schmitz and I were in Kathmandu at the time on our way to Dolpo for 45 days, as we were leaving for the airport to take the flight out, we got the news about the chopper crash, but were told Stevie may have died in the crash. We left minutes afterwards and didn't know the outcome until we got back 45 days later. It was the most disturbing 45 days of my life not knowing whether my best friend was alive or dead, when we got back I called immediately and found he was alive but was messed up pretty badly. He came out of it pretty good considering his shoulder problem, he even managed to race again, three years later he died in a car crash driving home from my place, which to date has been the worst day of my life.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 23, 2007 - 07:46pm PT
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Craig,
That must have been the worst 45 days, all the time chomping to get back to know for sure. It is ironic how Steve died considering how he lived on the edge to have fun. Being hit while sleeping in his car on the side of the road just seems bizarre.
Looking back on that accident that Bev was in that Roy bought up. That was an engine flameout due to snow ingestion. I found out years later the pilot was the same guy that flew us up Mt. Watkins for Bob Locke and numerous other flights. They were on the wrong side of the Deadman’s curve I mentioned above on autorotation’s That was pretty tragic for sure. Bev was a fixed wing pilot and really loved it.
In answer to your question in the TR thread. I am sure Ian would love to come to Nepal. We will start planning it for march.
Can’t wait!
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captain chaos
climber
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Sep 24, 2007 - 03:15am PT
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Your right Mike, it was hell for 45 days wondering what the outcome was, I had many wild and interesting dreams, which proved to be interesting after finally hearing the outcome. Stevie's death was ironic, the guy pulled off some incredible things and survived some major beatings only to get taken out while asleep in the back of his car. If there is a lesson to be learned from this its that you can never let your guard down. There's also some other things that happened which make more sense to it all. I'll tell you about it when we're making some turns together in March as I don't think this is the place to discuss it.
On the subject of your association with the pilot of the fatal chopper crash with Bev, Scannell and Wells... the chopper in the picture I posted earlier was sold a month or so after we were using it to another heli company in Nepal. A Russian pilot who was on one of his first flying missions in Nepal was assigned to a flight with some members of the WWF group, several foreign diplomats and Nepalese ministers, etc. They were in the Kanchenjunga region celebrating the Nepalese government turning over conservation of the wildlife and habitat around the Kanchenjunga region to a coalition of local communities. It was storming heavily and socked in and the only way out was through a steep narrow valley, which means you stay put and wait the weather out as there's no way in hell you fly under those conditions. Rumor has it one of the Nepalese ministers was liquored up and pressured the pilot to fly... which after being pushed and pushed by this minister, he finally agreed to give it a try. The outcome wound up being the worst helicopter accident ever in Nepal. There were 24 people onboard, only one could be identified. Every time I see the picture of the helicopter I get the heebie jeebies, as we flew a lot in that one. Anyway, I wasn't going to mention it as it was really a terrible and tragic accident, but when you mentioned the pilot in Bev's crash as being the one you flew a lot with, I thought I should open up and let you know that we both had similar situation happen.
Here's a link to an article about the accident:
http://www.ens-newswire.com/ens/sep2006/2006-09-25-02.asp
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krutley
climber
here, now
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May 10, 2010 - 12:58am PT
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This thread looks to've digressed into war stories, but I'm new here, and the thread's old.
Mike - The day my bro was injured on the P.O. with you, I believe was the same day he'd asked if I wanted to jug up and hang out while you guys explored. I had to catch a ride back to the bay so deferred. I was the one who got the call from Rik in the Merced hospital, prior to transport to the Bay, and had to give my Mom the news. Maybe I was 15? Your presence there, and your actions are responsible for Rik's still hangin out and curmudgeoning to this day. I think the bonk made him more cynical :-).
At any rate, I for one have a great deal of appreciation and respect for you, as well as other accomplishments. We were on a different age tier in the Valley, I was always hangin in the wings while my clique was busy socializing, so was on the fringe of your awareness.
It's never too late to post appreciation in this life, in this world.
Thanks, Mike
All the Best to You
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 10, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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Bump for a million reasons.
AFS
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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May 10, 2010 - 05:13am PT
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Mike is the boss!
he and JB were the first to "sponsor" me with shoes and gramicci and got me into my first trade show in vegas in 1988.
we partied like "rock" stars that week and i will never forget the support and energy they gave to me..
i feel very lucky to have had so many amazing friends over the years and to share so many good times..
Kurt
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 10, 2010 - 05:51am PT
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Wikipedia says that Deuce pioneered the portaledge.
The article doesn't mention the navy cots stolen from housekeeping camp. And no mention of Mike, nor Russ.
I don't mean to disrespect John, who brought the state of the art to its pinnacle, but the whole story has not been told there.
Has anybody out there got the time and knowledge to fix the Wikipedia entry for portaledge?
I mean, seriously, how are Gramicci and FISH not in the Wikipedia entry????
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