Worst Descents

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 49 of total 49 in this topic
Stanley Hassinger

climber
NC
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 15, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
A recent thread concerning the North Dome Gully descent in Yosemite got me wondering...

What is the worst descent from a climb (or other vertical adventure) that you've ever done?

For my part, it's North Dome Gully followed by East Ledges, but I haven't done that many big descents.

Let's hear it.

-Stanley
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Aug 15, 2007 - 10:56pm PT
Hmmm. Not necessarily "big" but I've done a bunch of interesting walk-offs in Joshua Tree.

Curt
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 15, 2007 - 11:03pm PT
Worst descents in my past have been when one of the following things happened:
 somebody got injured
 near-death experience
 lost gear on the descent
 had to do a forced bivvy
 got stranded and had to be rescued

Worst descents (in terms of risk of injury) in Yosemite in average conditions, in my opinion:

1. Sentinel
2. Slabs below Half Dome
3. North Dome Gully
4. Kat Walk (potential for big rocks to come crashing down and not much of a place to hide)
5. East Ledges (not really dangerous, just long)
WBraun

climber
Aug 15, 2007 - 11:05pm PT
Try the west gully descent off El Cap. It's nasty.

All those that have done this one please raise your hands.

Another one is Eagle creek from the top of El Cap. A Narley bitch.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 15, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
We did a descent in the Bugaboos that involved terrible weather (thunder and lightning and rain and hail), and a lot of rappels. Something like 15. For the last few, we were using the slings from our chalk bags, and taking slings off our hexes and things, and tying them together. The only thing we had left was our shoelaces, and the ropes.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 15, 2007 - 11:16pm PT
Grade III in the mountains
My partner is slow
It rains on crux
He falls
We don't reach rim until 20 minutes before dark
Ropes jam on rappel
We descend in dark w/o light
When it seems to get too hard we climb back up and bivy with nothing
When light comes we descend again only to find we did the crux of the descent 1) down 2) then up 3) then down again in that morning




DOH !!!
Forest

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:36am PT
The descent off of Elephant Head in the Santa Ritas south of Tucson. After the first half mile or so, there is no trail. Just pick a friendly looking drainage and begin the cactus-whacking. Fun Fun. Made even moreso the last time by discovering that my friend's truck had been trashed by asshats on motorbikes.
Handjam Belay

Gym climber
expat from the truth
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:45am PT
The hike OUT of the Black Canyon with a pig.
atchafalaya

climber
California
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:46am PT
Off the top of granite mountain in the dark, without headlamps. Our clothes were pinned to our bodies from falling into prickly pear.

I have carried a few climbing casualties in litters down in daylight, and suffered more of the same.
Brian

climber
Cali
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:50am PT
Having done several of the potential candidates offered above, i gotta say that...

"The hike OUT of the Black Canyon with a pig."

...sounds like real hell. How many ticks did ya get? And how much PO?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:53am PT
I'll second the nomination of Sentinel.

If you tried to descend from North Dome by sticking close to the dome (like I mistakenly did once) wading through the brush, and then did the NDG, that would be worse.

Werner, I'll always wondered about EL Cap Gully. Tell all!

HD slabs are no picnic

Peace

Karl
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:53am PT
I've done the Black hike, but that's not a descent. That's a retreat.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:05am PT
the thing about the north dome gully is that everyone talks about how insane it is. So then when you do it, its like "Oh, that was it? No ring of fire? No pit of magma? No giant flying boulders to dodge while hiking a steep narrow trail jumping through the ring of fire and over the pit of magma?"

at least that was what i thought..
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:41am PT
With North Dome Gully being a descent from the Royal Arches (many folks first long, long trad climb) and also the South Face of the Column (many folks first wall) it's just been the "trad descent" that's taken the Descent Suffering Virginity away from a lot of folks. That accounts for the impression it's left on many.

The first cut is the deepest...

Peace

Karl
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:50am PT
They are all hard when it's dark.
J. Werlin

climber
Cedaredge
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:00am PT
Third on the Sentinel.

Long out of H2O,
off route carrying pig.
Ah, the mazanita.

North Dome gully seemed like cake.

The Black sure has some good "approach" descents.
Not fully appreciated 'till the ivy rash breaks out later.
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:28am PT
cables route down longs with full bigwall gear complete with an all nighter death march back to the car ranks tops of my list thus far.

had we not tunnlevisioned on returning to civilization a bivy at chasm view to finish our whiskey would have softened the blow.

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:39am PT
I'd rather it be dark than it be raining. I got caught in a downpour on a route in the Meadows once. The rap station was next to a waterfall, my chalk bag looked like the inside or a washing machine that had too much detergent.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:58am PT
i dont know what the worse on is. but slipping down the 1/2 dome slabs in a hail/thinderstorm freaked my ass out. in comparison the east ledges was a piece of cake and also far better than the Black's approach descents. thank god i never had to go back up those.

one time i descended the gully just west of Warbonnet in the winds. after we got down hige blocks rolled down the sucker, that was scary.
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:58am PT
1000 foot walk off after Snake dike broke my heart, and burned my thighs.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
Wild Bill, is that a Lizzy Connors quote?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:37pm PT
Got lost on the top of Book of Friends in Sedona (probably because we topped out in the middle of torrential downpour and thunderstorm). We ended up canyoneering through the night, rappelling of chockstones and logs jammed in a slot canyon not knowing if we would come to an impassable spot. Our skeletons would still be there if we did!
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:44pm PT
now i see where your name comes from, it was earned! yikes.
AbeFrohman

Trad climber
new york, NY
Aug 16, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
the uberfall's got them all beat.
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 02:11pm PT
Ron, that's just me thinking out loud.

But really, the dark descents turn into bivies. Maybe someone should start another thread.about that - I'm sure it's never been discussed here on ST.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Aug 16, 2007 - 02:26pm PT
Dude if the Uberfall freaks you out, you've GOT to try Roger's Escape hatch....

----shiver


-Fear
Tom Hanson

Trad climber
Castle Rock, CO
Aug 16, 2007 - 02:48pm PT
Hi Stanley,

I would agree that the gully descent to the right of Washington Column is notoriously crappy. I did it one morning after spending the night on top while being eaten alive by fire ants.
However, my ski descent of Stanley Mountain above Berthoud Pass in Colorado several years back was my worst. At one section the snow hourglassed into a narrow ten inch wide section, where I had to lift one ski to fit thru. As I did this, I caught an edge and went down. I started tumbling and lost both ski's, not to mention both poles, hat, etc.
I tumbled about a quarter mile beofe I skidded to a stop just above a thirty-foot cliff.
The worst part was that I had to reclimb a quarter mile of slope to regain my gear.
My best descent was after I lead Baxter's Pinnacle in The Tetons back in about 1979. I had just led the last pitch to the top and I had to pee so bad that I unied from the rope and tied the rope off to a tiny tree on top so that I could take a leak. As I was relieving myself, the rope came untied and fell down to my belayers lap, who was a pitch below waiting to be belayed up.
I was thinking that I would be stuck up there until another party came along, or the rangers came by to save my sorry butt.
Then I noticed that there was a strange rope hangingover the north edge about the descent gully that was feeding around a tree as it was being pulled down by someone below.
I ran over and grabbed the cord and yelled over to ask the owners if I might borrow it long enough to bring my partner up with our line. They agreed and I lucked out of my stupid mistake.
snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:12pm PT
Maybe its because its so fresh in my mind but I thought the descent from the back of the UNotch after doing the palisades traverse was the worst.
That gully is super loose and never ending only to be followed by a giant talus field and a 3 hr death march on a never ending trail.

edit: it looks like I used 'never ending' twice in the last sentence but thats the first thing that came to mind and most accurate.
Impaler

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:36pm PT
Snowey, I am glad that you mentioned the Palisades. My worst one was there as well descending from Mt. Agassiz towards Winchell. We got off route (actually never got on the correct route at all) and probably ended up doing a FA that was about 5.8, when we intended to climb easy 5th class. We didn’t summit until midnight and by the time we got down to our high camp at the foot of the palisade glacier it was already sunny. However, I have to admit that it was the most beautiful night in my life. The stars were great and I had lots of time to watch the meteorites while belaying. There was also full moon and no clouds, so we didn’t use our headlamps. Nevertheless, we were getting cliffed out on our descent all night long and had several sections of loose and treacherous 5th class.

The descent from Sentinel was bad, but it doesn't match the proportions of the palisades. It took me only 1/3 of the time of the Agassiz descent.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 16, 2007 - 04:03pm PT
In no particular order:
1. descending from Palisade Glacier camp with full packs in a foot of fresh snow.
2. the approach to Paleface Slab at Cochise
3. those poor bastards who slog up the trail to Half Dome's NW face and have to bail and slog back out.

Ooh, forgot one: Tahquitz in the dark with no headlamp and no moon. That sucked.
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Aug 16, 2007 - 07:46pm PT
A very challenging "descent" is the approach to El Trono Blanco. You downclimb a gully filled with Columbia Boulder sized rocks, and you end up hopping from one to the next, squirming under and in between them (often getting dead ended), little rappels off garbage anchors here and there, to work your way down (all with 100 pounds on your back).

Hard to describe, but imagine a kewpie doll sized human coming down from the Zodiac talus slope and there's a bit of the idea.
cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
Aug 16, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
Descending Southwest Side, the class 3 route on North Palisade was treacherous. Steep ice hard snow in areas with only sneakers on and great exposure was dicey. And there's numerous places to get off route and onto steep class 5, as I found out.

The one spot that always gave me the jitters was that short steep hard dirt slope that you have to drop straight down right at the start of the long traverse over to North Dome Gully just north of Washington Column. It seemed that one little slip there and you'd go for the big ride. Sentinel's descent never seemed that exposed.
C-dog

Trad climber
Bay Area
Aug 17, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
Night-time in North dome Gulley escorting rescued wooden-soldier
dehydrated beginners down who had no headlamps or flashlights... UGH.

But my worst all-time descent?

The left side of PennyRoyal arches, Tuolemne. DON'T DO IT! The
descent is to the RIGHT!




Hope it was a tale you sought, because a tale it is:

(Circa 1993-4?, and not too fictional if memory serves...)

My buddy (Mr. Efficient) had xeroxed the hand drawn topo of the arches
and therefore left the actual guidebook in the car. ARGH #1. Thanks
for waiting until after the long approach hike to tell me that.

He and climber #3 were fairly solid 5.8 leaders and I had multi-pitched
with one of them several times, so I didn't see too much trouble with
leading them up "Eagle Dihedral" (5.5 or so). It was a beautiful 80deg
sunny, July 4th weekend, so up we go ...

At the top of pitch #3, they show up with only shorts and tee-shirts.
"What happened to your jackets?" I asked. While I had been leading,
they had untied them from their waists where I had told them to stow,
and thrown them -knit hats and all- down onto their packs at the base
of the climb (I was climbing with pack). Yes they could see that Marmots
were eating their packs, and yes it was a foolish desperate gambit.
ARGH #2.

One more pitch passed, when a large dark cloud suddenly appeared
above (came in from the South therefore blocked from view by the crag).
The temp dropped briskly and snowflakes began to swirl everywhere (yes,
in July: let that be a lesson for those with ears to hear). ARGH #3.

I donned my beautiful Patagonia fleece (brand new stuff at the time, yes
I am an old trad climber). Soon they were both shivering out of control.
I took pity on the young kid and gave him my pants. I should have called
it right there, but it was a tough call. The belays were not very good
for rapping (ARGH #4) and as I looked up to note that the final pitch was
4th class, and that the top was level enough to get situated and wait
out the squall. Time: 1:00 PM, and we still had our lunches to eat.

My buddy assured me "It's an easy walk off." "In the snow, wet rock?"
 he couldn't be sure of course. But so-and-so said so. I should have
demanded "WHO?!!," but alas I was still young-ish and somewhat tender.
We finished and had our lunch, snow lightned, spirits rising now.
Time to GTFOOD.

This was back in the days of the blue 2nd ed. guidebook, and as you can
note, the arrow indicating the descent is only found on the photo of the
arches, not on the topo. ARGH #5. The arrow points right, but the only
source of info we had -my buddy- said the descent was to the left. IT IS
NOT!!!! What you will find there is all nine circles of Hell. There is
a gulley, a deceptive gulley that goes easy at first. Feels good to be
getting down. Then you come to a mossy, inverted chimney that stays wet
all Summer. The angle is such that even though I set them up to lower me
on the rope, I could not get it to go. No matter what I tried, I could not
protect against falling and dangling out into free air. Nor could I find
any friction against wet rock and muddy moss. There was no other way to
go. Snow and cold meantime were worsening again.

They weren't helping by crying, "How will WE get down?!" I managed to get
down pack and all, then came the young guy, hanging on the rope, with me
providing a directional from below. Then my buddy had a hissy fit and refused
to come down without being on top belay. We had been able to set a single shaky
friend above, and were now in dire straits. I set many pieces at our position
below, and created a bomber belay in case the friend popped and he yanked on us.
We ended up in a tug of war on the rope, as I refused to let him have his way.
He wanted to climb back up and tie one end of the rope to a tree. "No," I
yelled against the wind, "We are too far from the ground to sacrifice one
of our ropes." That tree was ratty anyway, I had already passed it up. We
could not see him, and could barely hear him. I was not about to let him have
hold of our other rope in his state.

Finally, he agreed to climb down, if we helped. So I climbed part way back
up and lowered him, while the young kid stood on my shoulders tall, with his
left arm up in the bare air. After a most desperate, wet, and dirty stretch,
my buddy was able to get his foot into that hand. Jeesh. Ok, now we are
feeling better, but minus one friend, a sling, and two biners. But the worst
was yet to come.

We had a good belay, but the gulley we were in vanished at -you guessed it-
about 50 meters below that belay. I found this out at rope's end. There was
nowhere else along that part that could be used as a belay, and only a flat
face for the last 100-200 ft down. That's a shitty feeling. ARGH #6.

So... Tie the two ropes together, do a single rope rap with a knot to pass
halfway down? Leave our pieces and both ropes? I muddled with this idea
whilst I cursed and cursed. No easy way to see if the rope reached the turf
below. There was a ledge about 20 feet above me outside of the gulley. It
was big enough for us, but no place to sink a piece. Good footing though.
Time? 5:00PM. By now I knew that we were way off route.

It was then that I noticed that the rim of the gulley below to my left
(which had been 10-15 feet dihedrally above us) held a spire, more of a mound
about 3 feet in diameter. Not sharp enough to lasso, wrong angle, but defined
enough to hold with a bear hug. Perhaps our fortunes would look better from over
there? (BLIND) But I would have to run down the slab and leap perhaps ten
feet to reach it. I tried to figure a pendulum, but no way, the rope wasn't
long enough from the affore-mentioned belay. If they came down, then the angle
would be shitty for a pendulum. But I knew that Matt could hold me if I fell,
So I told Matt to come down, and my buddy stayed up at the belay. He kept Matt
on one of the ropes while I attempted the leap on the other. Matt braced himself,
I parked my pack with him, and then I shedded my childhood sanity.

I don't know how I did it, but I ran at a downward angle on the slab, and then
jumped across the flaring remains of our gulley over the abyss. I ended up
sprawled on the mound like a starfish. Thank God there was another gulley
on the far side! I found a way to belay, hauled my pack over and set up.
Anybody ever been at this spot?

Meantime, I untied and returned the rope to Matt. He fed it back up to my buddy,
who rapped down to the ledge. Now we were down more cams and a stopper, plus slings,
biners, etc. They threw the rope back down to me, I tied them in, and one at a time
they tried the leap. Matt made it, my buddy did not. He ended up dangling, again
hysterical, hit his elbow pretty bad. Eventually we hauled, he calmed, and we made
it back to their mangled packs at the base. The Marmots had eaten everything, and
apparently also stolen one of my buddy's approach shoes!

Moral of the story:

It was the last time I ever climbed with my buddy. No for real: The guidebook
is bound in durable ways designed for you to take it with you. Do so. Dammit.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Aug 17, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
NDG and going left off the top of Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Aug 17, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
I've never done the in-famous Valley descents, but my vote goes for coming off the back of Red Garden Wall in the dark. Good thing I'd done it in daylight and knew the route, and that it was OK to let go of that boulder and drop 5-6 feet!
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Aug 17, 2007 - 03:27pm PT
deuce4, you forgot to mention the rattlesnakes. At least the time of year I was there, they were a major factor. And the lion that came close to camp one night was spooky too. Might have been a jaguar, I saw one down that way once.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Aug 17, 2007 - 03:44pm PT
The worst descents that I've been on have probably been in Zion or Red Rocks.

The worst I've been on in Yosemite were probably Middle Brother and Ribbon Falls West (which we probably did wrong). Arrowhead Arete has lots of heights to fall from and blocks to bowl down on each other too.

Edit...I always feel like I'm going to kill myself trying not to get poison oak on that sandy edge on top of the Cookie. I guy did perish up there a few years ago too. I guess it doesn't have to be long and burly to be "bad".
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Aug 17, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
C-Dog,
I've done "the Vision" on Pennyroyal at least 5 times and I think I've exited fairly casually to the left each time????
Kind of a long, slow, traversy left. Not descending directly, but following ledges etc....

Worst descent? hmm. North Dome Gully not as bad to me as to some, never did it in the dark though...

I think that ledge coming off of "Absolutely Free" Area was an unpleasant experience...

Some Josh descents are more like climbs...now some canyon descents...oops, that is a different forum!
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
Aug 17, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
Personal worst
north gulley at Tahquitz...
I went down as the talus trundled underneath me.
When everything stopped, I thought I had sprained my ankle, and an hour and a half later I was in Humber Park. ok I thought.

Three days later the podiatrist is showing me the xray of the bubbled cortex of the bone, over an area 1 " wide and 4" long... "I don't understand why your bone didn't break under the weight of that boulder." The three footer that had rolled, had gone over another piece, with my ankle in-between.
Ed
travelin_light

Trad climber
california
Aug 17, 2007 - 05:05pm PT
Descent from:

South Face of Lone Pine Peak
Mount Mendel (going back up and over Lamarck Col)
NDG
Anything in Alaska
Turtle Rock

Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
Aug 17, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
Travlin,
Lamark Col- geez I watched Phil Warrender power barf there.
thanks for the memory : )
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 17, 2007 - 06:20pm PT
Melissa, how can this be?
Zion? Bad descents?

Say it ain't so.
My ropes neeeeeeeeever get stuck.
Or loaded with cactus spines.
Or wet and sandy turning into flexible rat tail files.
And the proper descent is aaaaaaaalways obvious.
And nobody eeeeeeever leaves misleading slings on the wrong anchors,
And the anchors are aaaaaaaaaalways so bomber,
And there's never any bushwacking,
And
And
And


Dontcha luv it?
crøtch

climber
Aug 17, 2007 - 06:22pm PT
Rainbow Wall - Woke up on Over the Rainbow Ledge to a storm some Thanksgiving weekend. That route is a watercourse and the hike out is through a riverbed. Getting down and back to the car took all day and lasted well past sunset. We were soaked the entire time. Putting on dry clothes was pure bliss.

Mescalito (Red Rocks) in the dark - mantled onto a ledge and didn't see the pointy plant (agave?) before I got a puncture about 1 cm from my eye that started spurting blood. Bivy resulted, but at least there was plenty of fuel for a fire.

Lone Pine Peak - I lost my shoes on route and had to do the talus/scree descent and hike out in my climbing shoes

divad

Trad climber
wmass
Aug 17, 2007 - 08:59pm PT
Bailed off the North Ridge of the Grand Teton in a snow storm. Heavy wet snow not conducive to downclimbing. Had to leave gear and last rap was off an ice bollard. Actually wondered if we were living or dying. Easy to laugh about it now but it was serious at the time and a genuine "experience builder".
Rich the Brit

Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
Aug 17, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
Karl's comments on NDG and the first cut ring true.

7 years ago, I had just arrived in the states, and RA was my intro to Yosemite climbing. No SuperTaco back then - so descent route was scribble on a piece of paper by a friend.

We ran out of water at top a RA, with no filter or tablets, and too dumb to realize that ground spring was prbably OK. We were terrified of giradia, so we moved on.

We then came across the gully on the RA side of Washington's Column. We started to descend until we found the sign on the wall describing "danger of death" or some other pleasantry. We then debated for an hour as to wheather this sign was meant for hikers or dumb ass climbers.

We then climbed to the top of the column to get a better view. At the summit, we found a black PVC tube with something sloshing around in it (remember we were a brit trad climbers with no idea what was involved in aid climbing). My partner was tempted to pop it open to see if there was anything to drink, but forunately I had guessed at its pupose before it came to that.

We moved on and were finally releived to find the tatty piece of rope that leads into the gully itself.

It was dark by the time we reached the woods, and I was grateful for the reflector pins that have been stuck in trees to help you navigate back to the trail.

A year or 2 later I was staying with a mate at the Ranger Club. We left the house at about 8; walked to the foot of the climb; roped every pitch after the 5th; descended the gully; and were back at the house, sharing a beer shortly after 4.

I think the challenge with ND is the first time route find - find the gully and then find a way down it. Once you have done it once, it is easy (in day light atleast).
Rich the Brit

Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
Aug 17, 2007 - 10:08pm PT
The gully of Mid Cathedral was "interesting", and I haven't done it since the rock fall a few years back. I have heard it is even more "interesting" now.

Weather is always a bitch - I had an experience on some route on Pingora in Windrivers a few years back. We got caught in a thunderstorm, and the wet ropes kept getting stuck. It seemed to go for hours, but I don't think that weather really counts.

Finally, worst descent for me was a walk out of Palisades. We had climbed V-notch that day, but needed to get back to car. We were late getting down and hiked past midnight to the trail head. We managed to keep it together with the thought of a greasy burger and fries waiting for us at the 24hr Denny's in Bishop. When we finally got there, we were told that is was the annual kitchen steam clean, and we could only have soup and a salad. I mean I had just burned 6000 calories and they were offering me soup and a salad!!! To this day, I still gag at the smell of cheese and broccoli soup.

Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Aug 17, 2007 - 10:11pm PT
Choosing between being a lightening rod and doing the wet 4th class slabs on assorted Tuolumne domes during the daily thundershower can be great fun too.
Risk

Mountain climber
Minkler, CA
Aug 17, 2007 - 11:05pm PT
Agazzi Col, west side. We precariously ascended the east side with full packs on steep snow praying not to slip and loose precious elevation and maybe some skin. View was great. Then the decent; perilously loose to the point that we were forced to stay no more than 7-feet from each other as rocks and scree flung downward around us. Hideous. We renamed it “Agony Col.” It took us an hour or more, picking our way.

Arrowhead Arête. For me, everything was just fine until the steep gully ended at a 4-foot chock stone festooned with probably 30 sun-bleached slings tied around the rappel tree or rock (I can’t remember). The late Walt Shipley placed yet another (“This looks pretty crappy”), and we each made the awkward swing/rope-scrape to get into mid-air beneath the chock stone for the full 160+ overhanging cave-drop; the rope was freely swinging somewhere above the landing ledge. The elasticity of the rope did get us each to the landing with a minimal no-rope drop finale, but it was altogether unnerving.

Edit: Arrowhead Arête must be on the "Olde English 800 Classic" list, as it looms prominantly in view above the Deli. It was there Walt talked me into this fine outing.
gunsmoke

Trad climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Aug 18, 2007 - 12:00am PT
1) Almost anything by headlamp.
2) Anything by headlamp when you don't have a headlamp because you didn't bring a headlamp because you were supposed to be off of the thing before you needed a headlamp.
Messages 1 - 49 of total 49 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta