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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 14, 2007 - 02:11am PT
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Crack House.
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Mike from Phoenix
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Aug 14, 2007 - 06:24am PT
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It isn't a perfect splitter, but the top 2/3 of the Majak Line on the Tower of Bootle in Sedona is pretty sweet. Nice vertical hands thru a roof into a lieback through a limestone band.
-Mike
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Derek
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 09:14am PT
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There's a 200' perfect hands crack that goes at maybe 5.8 or 5.9, just hanging in space ~20 pitches up the Cordier Pillar on the West Face of the Grand Charmoz in Chamonix. It just splits this otherwise featureless slab of absolutely flawless golden granite. It's easily one of the finest pitches I've ever done. Not hard, but with that position, that rock, that alpine ambiance. Wow...Hard to believe so many folks rap off from the terraces a couple of pitches below.
-Derek
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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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Aug 14, 2007 - 10:49am PT
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Has anybody mentioned Way Rambo? i remembered it being this amazing perfect hands splitter, a little too short but really nice, and the setting, wow....
Correction, i was talking about Blue Sun, that you did mentioned above!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2007 - 04:16pm PT
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Great to see so many good suggestions, especially for the desert areas. The in-print guidebooks seem to lack a listing of the better routes by type so this feedback from y'all is terrific.
I just know there is a rock shaped like a breaking wave with a perfect hand crack through it somewhere out there. It just has yet to be discovered.
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TimN
Trad climber
St. Charles, MO
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Aug 14, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
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If you like roof cracks. . . "Arkansas Reality"- Sam's Throne, Arkansas
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 14, 2007 - 04:33pm PT
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Second pitch, Falling Ross at Granite Mountain (10b):
Rhythm & Blues (10b), Phoenix
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Aug 14, 2007 - 04:44pm PT
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Assembly line D.T.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2007 - 05:25pm PT
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Kevin- that short circuit is like a wave and even better it's situated on a river island but it's rugged fingers 1-1.25 inches. I've been dreaming of some arching wave like the boulders where the Cookie rockfall meets 140. That would be very cool to find. And I'm still looking!
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Aug 14, 2007 - 05:49pm PT
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For us mere mortal, overweight, off-the-couch, maybe-once-a-year climbers, don't forget the second pitch of The Grack, Glacier Point Apron. Or the first pitch of Prussik Peak, West Ridge, Enchantments. Both 5.6. And no sand or scorpions in The Enchantments crack Werner!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 14, 2007 - 06:30pm PT
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Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall, Wa comes to mind. Not too hard, but it's like 400ft of splitter hands.
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crøtch
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
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Anyone have a picture of the headwall pitches on Tricks of the Trade?
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Aug 14, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
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yes clode Prussik has incredible crack climbing esp the route put up by Fred & Ted Yackulic. no sand or scorpians just plenty mosquitoes
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 15, 2007 - 12:42am PT
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Tarbusta;...about 10 years ago, I went up to Washington State for 2 reasons;... Hummershine's 40th birthady bash, and to climb R O T C......both were excellent;. R O T C is Wahington's Insomnia Crack.....(Hummershine sent, by the way;...I was able to follow with no falls.... but remember; that was about 10 years ago....)......The best pitch in the state;....but don't take my and Hummershine's advice;... Peter Croft says it's the best pitch in Wa. too!...hop on it, Beadwagon....
Hummershine in action in Leavenworth on the practice crack.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Aug 15, 2007 - 02:10am PT
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"way up the hill..."
So true, the hike keeps out the riff-raff.
It really is an unpleasant hike, maybe 50 minutes, most of which sucks. That is to the base of the cliff, gets much worse if hiking to the summit to solo-toprope. And yes, Gordo and I had a gas up there! Once the hike is over the position is outstanding, as is the climbing!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 15, 2007 - 10:06am PT
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Mungeclimber wrote: I keep thinking there is a 200' 5.6 splitter hands waiting for me in the woods out there.
some day I'll find it. that will be the best one because by the time I find it, that will be all I can climb.
Your search has ended. And, lucky for you, it's 20 minutes from the parking lot, so you can take your walker to get there.
Here it is:
GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 15, 2007 - 10:23am PT
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Regarding Reppy's Crack, at Cannon: Yes, it's New England's finest wide-hands crack. But I'm sorry, compared to every other crack mentioned in this thread, it's just boring and painful.
GO
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 15, 2007 - 01:15pm PT
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Rostrum has some sweet hands on it and btw, it's open now.
Sunnyside Jam
Bishops Terrace
Moby Dick-Sacher Cracker
Outer Limits
Reeds
(I don't think gripper is all that sweet but it ain't chopped liver)
Sons of Yesterday
List goes on and on
Karl
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 17, 2007 - 11:12am PT
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Dave's Diviation, Tahquitz.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 17, 2007 - 01:02pm PT
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Somebody requested a Tricks photo:
(apologies in advance for the self-aggrandizement)
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