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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana
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Very nice photos. These took me back to my first and only trip in '95 or '96?? The snow/glacier pack still looks about the same. I tried to look at older photos on the net to see if it's diminished much, no luck so far. One of my favorite memories was staying in the hut, bs'ing with all sorts of good folks! And, the car brake/radiator hose eating varmints! Spectacular place to be! Thx. for the post.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
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Thanks for taking a look. The place is beyond rad. We didn't use crampons or even take solid mountain boots. I wore some Montrails for the hike in and had a spare pair of Guide Tennies to alternate with. That wasn't really necessary since the hut's "boot room" is heated and your stuff dries out easily in there. I did the approach to and climb of the Snowpatch Route and W. Ridge of Pigeon in the 5.10ees. A lot of folks seemed to have Trango EVOs, though.
The climbs were remarkably similar to things we'd done in the Sierra, just bigger. Most of the trade routes have been retro-bolted to allow for single-rope raps and pretty much every climb involves some travel over snow. Word around the hut was that the Bensen/Green guide was obsolete as the remaining, living author hasn't been there in close to 20 years. The Piche/Atkinson guide (www.elaho.ca), on the other hand, is remarkable. Liza at the Hut sells it for an even $40.
Here's another thread by some folks who met with success and good weather: http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2003/bugaboos.htm
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roslyn
Trad climber
washington
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god, i love that place.
thanks for the tr and pics
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Marty! Awesome. Thanks for posing all these photos. I mean, posting all these. You know, when we were at the Hulk last year I thought you musta just borrowed your wife's shades, but now I know its just your funky style. Gotta love the nail polish... LOL!
Let's climb again soon!
-JD
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2007 - 05:34pm PT
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Jerry,
It was hard to find a replacement for those Jackie-Os, but the $6 snow-leopards are pretty suave.
Headed to the East Side tomorrow; Evolution Basin Saturday.
Fire up the scanner and post those Hulk shots!
(m)))
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Awesome TR. Man, you guys got the good weather. That Toyota in the lot looks familiar--did you meet Dennis and Eric from Jackson Hole up there?
Nice job on the sends, thanks for taking the effort to post.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Wow, you can't take a bad picture up there if you tried, I guess. Thanks for the inspiring TR!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2007 - 07:13pm PT
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J. Werlin,
Nope, but the only other folks from the lower 48 were a couple from Utah,two dudes--one of them named Curt--from Bozeman and Boulder, and two young guys--Felix (Flagstaff) and Eric (Santa Barbara)--who were hanging with Beckey. They were going to meet up in the Adamants to do "IronMan". They picked up a car from some dude on the net and the note Fred left on the windshield said "don't pick up any bikini hitchhikers"! Classic stuff. He's really hard of hearing but still has quite a sense of humor. His 'tastes good...EVEN if it looks like horsedick..." line (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=417099&msg=425654#msg425654); is one for the ages.
Erik,
If you're out there, lurking, post up. You'll have annals to write I'm sure!
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Thanks Marty--great TR again. Gave me the jonz for sure.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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VLG, great TR! The photos are fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to put together these little shots of heaven for our viewing pleasure.
For us, this is as close as we'll ever get to the Bugaboo's. Mussy says, "Beautiful place too bad it's inaccessible". It's true, same reason we don't go to the Needles!
Hope to see you this fall (SSFJT). Isn't it time for you to get back to work yet?
~Susan
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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F-ing teachers, they get all the perks....
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there... thanks for sharing your trip... this is really beautiful... i'm gonna go read about it on the net, somewhere... thanks so very much... great stuff... i usually go take a few stares at the live-cam for the matterhorn, and watch the sun rise or set there... this is nearly as nice.... course, that is LIVEEEE... so it is tops...
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youngharz
Boulder climber
Carpinteria
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Hey Marty,
Cool running into you on the trail back to the parking lot! Awesome pictures man, Sounds like everyone lucked out on the weather that week!
Fred got a little sick in the Adamants but still got up on the Ironman. In between jugging and climbing, he was scribbling "his" topo on a tattered piece of paper so he would have it for a new book he's working on. That guy is such the climber's climber, I think he's off to the Coast Range now...
-Erik
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Allright! Great TR!
Thanks,
Zander
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2007 - 01:08am PT
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Susan,
Access isn't quite like your back 40, but there's always a chopper that can handle loads of all sizes.
So when's the fiesta grande? I go back to work next week but already need to plan some mental health days.
Erik,
That was quite a coincidence. Good job on Ironman. Post up some photos if you have them.
Jaybro,
So what's new for fall?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Excellence!
You show 'em Marty(r).
Now that's how to make a proper post.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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great stuff two thumbs up!
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